1983 Chevy 3/4 4x4 rebuild smallblock rebuild, need some opinions.

[timex69]

Hey I recently purchased an old 83 trans am and after I stripped it down I noticed that the subframe above the rear wheels was completely rusted out on the top of the frame rails. So I called a wrecker to come get it and we got talking about some old cars and he said i mite like to come check out his barn and salvage yard. The next sunday i took a drive out to see what he had and he said itd be easyer if i told him what i was looking for. I told him I was after a 350 4 bolt and an old project car or truck. So we took a walk out behind the barn and found a 1983 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 4 speed manual turbo 350 or 400 tranny in it. Everything was in working order accept the frame was just fair. He said he wanted $1000 for that truck, a few hundred more for a complete rust free frame and I could have a 350 of my choosing in his barn in exchange for my trans am for scrap so I said done deal and told him he could have another truck for scrap for his trouble. So I picked up the block yesterday and 750 LB engine stand that I found onsale for $39.99 at Canadian Tire as well as a haynes and clymer manual and a chevy smallblock rebuild manual. Now my plans for this engine are. Id like to get a set of aluminum heads (Id like to use vortec heads or Pro Comp) but im open to suggestions as well as some flat top pistons and a cam (edelbrock makes one and ive read good things) and top it off with an eagle forged crank and a holly carb. I think i want to go with mechanical secondaries over vaccumm. Now that you know my plans I was hoping you guys could give me some opinions on the parts ive chosen. Also what is the highest compression ratio I can go with on pump gas. Will a set of heads and flat tops put me over the limit? For bang for the buck should I get a 383 stroker kit or just stick with a mild 350. I plan on daily driving this truck when its done and mabe taking it to the annual truck pull depending on how much money I have left to upgrade the running gear. I will post pics when I get the truck home.

[big yeller]

the compression ration depends on the heads...i know 10:1 you will have to run race fuel. yes a 383 would be better, it will have more torque for pulling the heavy truck through mud. dont get long tube headers you will loose your low end torque. a 650 cmf holly carb with mech. secondaries will be great.you said it had a turbo 350 trans thats a auto trans...i dont think you will like it with a big cam with out a small stall converter. you really dont need a egle forged crank the one you have is strong...just get it turned. have you looked at http://www.northernautoparts.com/ for parts. i had good luck with them the past times i built 2 ford engines.

[topless]

You confused me with your description of a 4 speed manual turbo 350 or 400. A turbo 350 or 400 are automatics. The 400 being the stronger of the 2. If you are looking for torque, the more cubic inches the better. However, on a daily driver, you will be dumping fuel in at a pretty good rate. For the money Vortec heads are good ones, but they are small chamber and you'll need to watch the compression ratio. Assuming you'll have a machine shop refurbish the block, they can tell you what compression you'll have with any cc head based on the piston you use. Be aware that vortec heads have their own intake bolt pattern, different than older small blocks. Building for torque takes a combination of cam and intake. Headers will make more power than manifolds and as long as you use a cross-over or X in the exhaust, you won't lose torque. Cam choice for torque, high lift short duration with 108-110 degrees of lobe separation. Intake, I'd use a Edelbrock RPM for best al around performance. In a 3/4 ton 4x4, you'll be getting 6-8 mpg. If you really want power, build a big block. That truck engine bay is huge and a BBC is a drop in. I have an 87 and I've done 2 motor changes in it and it's a head stand to work on.

[big yeller]

agreed a 454 would be ALOT better than a 350 or a 383 in your situation. hahaha" no replacement for displacement".

[timex69]

big yeller, topless

Can you guys tell me what the name of the transmission chevy used in the early eighties that was a manual 4 speed with bull low

A 454 would be cool but like you said it would definately chew up some fuel and in my neck of the woods its getting hard to find and expensive to build big blocks.

i wasnt going with a forged crank because i feel the stock one will fail...my buddy has one forsale cheap...which is my kinda price.


I will get some pics up asap.

[1984ATC200S]

being a 3/4 its probly got the cast iron case, H/D RPO M20, but if it has the aluminum case it would be a RPO MCO, i believe, they are very similar to late 80;s models. .I'm in search of a parts truck nowto do, an Auto, to standard swap, and get rid of the 4.3 at the same time. good luck with your project, should be a good one, when your done.

[riverrat]

If your doing a motor, think "package" and don't just throw anything together. Do your research, so that all your components work together, and one is not greater than the other, otherwise your just wasting money.
I used to run 9-1 on pump gas, and my friends would run 10-1 on 93, but be careful with the timing.
Vacum secondarys will give your better gas mileage on the highway, mechanicals are better for drags.
Match your cam with your stall converter, very important! You want the power band of the cam to start where your stall is, or close to it.
Aluminum heads are not necessary for hp. Local speed shop sells a cast iron 358 motor, that makes 600hp. Chevy had some decent 202 heads, and quite a few after market companies make good heads as well.
Like i said, just match everything. Don't put a torker manifold with an rv cam, they won't work well together. <example.
The more all around you make it, the more sacrifice there will be. Don't expect to make some all out pulling truck, then drive home on the freeway with it, that probably won't happen.
You can easily make a 350-400hp motor that runs on pump gas, has cast iron heads, and has a low torque band. and if your pulling, a 383 would be better.