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View Full Version : POR 15 and RUST on truck frame??



Dirtcrasher
09-12-2010, 09:47 PM
I have a 1994 Toy truck, perfect motor and tranny, I won't be driving it, I took it off the road as I've been layed off for so long.......

The diff is so rusty I can smack it with a hammer and rust pieces fall off, so I'll do that, then I figured just a quick wire brush.

Other parts have surface rust, not nearly as bad and I figue I'll just wire brush them and por 15 them up. Some of them have perfect old paint next to them.

From what I've heard, Por 15 loves a rough rusty surface, nothing painted/smooth.

Should I just hit the bad areas and skip all the good ones so it won't peel at all or please share your experiences......

I figure I'll get like pint size cans as I hear once you open it, you had better use it!

THANK YOU!!

fabiodriven
09-12-2010, 09:52 PM
When I did my F-350 I just banged off all of the heavy scale with a hammer and went to town. On the few areas that did still have paint the POR 15 did not stick too well so you might have the right idea just skipping those.

harryredtrike
09-12-2010, 09:55 PM
yea dc,knock the loose stuff off and leave the rest and coat.i have a buddy that puts that stuff on everything.he swears by it.just dont get it on your skin.if you do youll have to wear it off

Thorpe
09-13-2010, 12:07 AM
On the big scaly stuff, I usually buzz it down with a grinder, just to smooth out the highs, but not take it to bare metal... Just did a 38 buick frame on friday with it! And Harry is correct... I have 2 drops on my forearm I am wearing off currently...

300rman
09-13-2010, 08:39 PM
Yep. knock the scale off and go to town. careful, you WILL get it all over you......wear junk clothes......trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro doesnt come off. if it dries on your skin, its THERE to wear off. wipe it off with thinner ASAP.

the crap sticks to rough rusty frames better than Powdercoat sticks to items......but avoid clean/smooth surfaces. it sticks to the rust and stops it. there is nothing better for said application.

SYKO
09-13-2010, 10:33 PM
there is more then just painting por15 on there is other products you have to treat the metal before hand, its also expensive look up all the processes before you dive into that.

300rman
09-13-2010, 11:55 PM
Sorry SYKO, but i have to disagree. ive had a multitude of trucks come through our shop that i have POR'd the frames on. all i did was knock the scale off and apply the POR. years later, the POR is holding strong, and looks nearly as good as the day i completed it. mind you, these are trucks that plow snow and spread salt in the winter. as long as the areas you are applying the POR to arent greasy or oily, then nothing other than knocking the scale off/removing loose crap needs to be done in preparation for POR.

Kilborg
09-14-2010, 07:37 PM
Por is great stuff... But it requires prepwork, the more the better. For the best outcome you will need a bit of time and cash, but some (thorough) basic prep can still achieve good results. Knock off the initial scale, then hit it with your choice in abrasive goodness. Once thats done hit it with a blowgun and give it a good cleaning with whatever flavor solvent you prefer. If i remember right the reccomended procedure involves a light acid to etch the surface as well. I have always simply brushed it on, but have heard of some guys spraying it. I believe it is also now available in a spray can.

Jerm1179
09-14-2010, 08:14 PM
id prep everything with acid before applying....the bottom side of my jeep tub and the frame are both done in POR ..its amazing stuff

fabiodriven
09-14-2010, 08:17 PM
The only prep I did was knocking the scale off. It seemed to work just fine. I just brushed it on and I got a very dull finish which was fine for me, it wasn't a show truck. On the other hand, my buddy sprayed his on and he got a nice shiny show quality finish. I'm not quite sure how he did it. I wasn't there for the application.

Jerm1179
09-14-2010, 08:22 PM
there are different top coats for POR that will shine it up (chasiscoat, blackcoat)...and keep it that way but in my experience it will fade as son as the sun bakes on it for a bit...http://www.por15.com/Single-Part-Topcoats/products/4/...they also have an etching primer for painted surfaces

300rman
09-15-2010, 12:15 AM
yes, POR breaks down in sunlight. and any areas contaminated with oil need to be cleaned 100%. but as far as grinding, i dont recommend that. pound the scale off, hit it with a scraper, leaf-blower or whatever it off to get the dust off, then paint away.

Dirtcrasher
09-15-2010, 01:05 AM
Mybe I'll do a light spray mix of muriatic acid and water before I hit it. I def. wan t to brush it on THICK! No0 spray here......

[I]'m afriad the diff mad break through, it's disintegrated over the years :lol: but the rest of the frame is very solid..................... Just small rust areas I was gonna wire wheel the scale off with a rt angle grinder......

Hope the diff has some meat left, amazing how bad just the rear end got, maybe the prior owner had a boat?

300rman
09-15-2010, 08:45 PM
Ive had excellent luck knocking the scale off with a hammer.....make sure the metal HAS RUST ON IT though, or the POR will NOT stick....it doesnt like clean metal, no matter how rough/pitted it is.

Jerm1179
09-15-2010, 11:17 PM
if you use an etching primer first POR will stick....im not sure if its just their primer or any etching primer but its how i did my jeep tub and my old jeeps frame

Dirtcrasher
09-16-2010, 01:06 AM
I'll get some muriatic acid, just ordered then Por 15, 6 pint size can. I don't want it to dry up......

Jerm1179
09-16-2010, 08:44 AM
should get yourself a cheap painters paper suit..that craps nasty

leevarnado
09-16-2010, 11:25 AM
etching primer is a must when it comes to bare metal(rust).

300rman
09-16-2010, 03:23 PM
etching primer is a must when it comes to bare metal(rust).

Not with POR-15 ;) it is formulated to stick to rust and neutralize it. if you applied this stuff over an etching promer, it would peel off in sheets.

and YES on the painters suit......

as for primers...if its not specifically for POR, dont use it.

as for the can, you can open it new, then if you get ANY paint in the rim and close the lid, you only can open the can one more time, because you will destroy the lid getting it back off.

Jerm1179
09-16-2010, 04:03 PM
I stand corrected.....POR's makes a primer that bonds to the shiney areas that i assumed you could POR right over it, but after reading the directions again you just topcoat over it like any other primer....blonde moment... stupid noobs;) good thing there was nothing but rust when i used it lol or ida been in deep $#%@ lol

Thorpe
09-16-2010, 11:52 PM
As to the part of POR being UV sensitive, my boss swears that when you have POR'd your suface, when it is good and tacky, that you can top coat with a few coat of regular spray bomb, and it will take care of its UV sensitivity... (granted he certainly isnt a professional painter by any means...)

Dirtcrasher
09-17-2010, 12:44 AM
^ Hey, any input is appreciated!!

The frame is good, it's the rear diff that I'm afraid if I knock the scale off it will break thru!!

Scale isn't the word on that puppy! and my oil pan is pretty rusty too. It doesn't come out without lifting the engine :(

Thorpe
09-17-2010, 10:21 PM
POR also makes a pretty sweet putty if you do develop small holes... http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/ Have used it a few times where the pitting is really deep. Works good! Would probably patch up pits/pinholes in an oil pan or in a diff cover with ease... I hate to drag the sprayer out for working with POR, but have used the Preval disposable sprayers, for those hard to reach places... (available at the Depot, Lowes, Menards for 6-7 bucks) http://www.preval.com/what-is-preval?ctt_id=8455837&ctt_adnw=Google&ctt_ch=ps&ctt_entity=tc&ctt_cli=2x15169x74271x1755724&ctt_kw=preval%20spray&ctt_adid=5772404118&ctt_nwtype=search&gclid=CKre6r31j6QCFdFO5wodkDK-JQ Just cut the POR with a little shot of laquer thinner... Works like a dream, throw it away when your done!

300rman
09-18-2010, 03:53 PM
POR also makes tank sealing kits, like Kreem and Red-Kote. all i hear about that system is good things.

tri again
09-19-2010, 03:51 AM
I wonder what's in that rust reformer stuff I've been using. Pretty friendly to use and doesn't seem to fly around.

Someone said it's phosphoric acid and loves rust.

300rman
09-19-2010, 04:33 PM
I wonder what's in that rust reformer stuff I've been using. Pretty friendly to use and doesn't seem to fly around.

Someone said it's phosphoric acid and loves rust.

Ive used it. the POR works better, and its more aesthetically pleasing.