500$ f150

[tri again]

Pretty sure from 90-96 are all the same.

There's a capacitor or 2 in the computer that will leak.
about 50 cent fix.

Since the computer gets stupid, it never throws correct codes
and is real hard to figure out why they won't run dependably across the driveway.

Key on, fuel pumps should run for a second or 2 and shut off.
Has NOthing to do with fuel pressure building but is timed by computer.
Key on and fuel pump(s) keep running? bad eec, ecu computer or whatever it is called at the time.

After a couple months trying to figure it out and no one seems to know
about this ford quirk, I think I'll
keep my eyes open for more.

This one is a straight 6 automatic and it accelerates like a dream with a full load of firewood.

[fabiodriven]

You threw me for a loop there with your curious cadence of speech. All in all, that is some very good information if correct, however I nor anybody I know has ever performed surgery on a vehicle's computer. In fact, I got rid of an otherwise decent Subaru because the car was throwing a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) code that wouldn't go away. The car came factory with no ABS and the VSS is part of the ABS system on cars so equipped. The car never had a VSS but it was throwing a code because somebody had taken the computer from an ABS car and put it in this one. Sounds like something your surgery could have possibly fixed.

Personally, my fix for your pickup's problem would have been to bolt on a carburetor and be done with it. In all actuality I would have spent a lot more money and time doing it, but then it would be pretty simple to maintain after that point. I know the carb setup is inferior in more than one way, but I'm just old fashioned.

[bkm]

Fabio, I'm with you. I switched my '86 Mustang from EFI to carb about 7 years ago. I had Patrick at Pro-Systems set up a carb for me. It wasn't cheap, but it ran better, got better mileage, and the drivability was much improved. Not to mention it ran like a raped ape. I got sick and tired of dealing with laptops and dyno tune sessions to get it right.

[tri again]

I'll tell ya, I was ready to carb it.
But manifold, trans shifter module and trick carb was
pushing a grand.

..and I didn't know the truck or if it had some other catastrophic
gearbox or whatever problems.

Naaah, the capacitor was like 50 cents, and just looked a little burnt.
Very easy to replace with a household soldering iron.

If the fuel injection gets stupid (or expensive) again, this truck would be worth carbing
since I know it's worth the extra effort.
2 sx's fit perfectly and the extra cab holds a ton of gear.

[bkm]

I hear you Joe. For a DD I wouldn't convert it, but for my toy it was the way to go. I love those old body style Fords and would love to have a '97 Powerstroke F-350 4-door 4x4 with the 8' bed. My uncle has one and it was the last year for the old body style. He won't sell it though and its only got 87,xxx original miles.

[TrailerRider]

Key on, fuel pumps should run for a second or 2 and shut off.
Has NOthing to do with fuel pressure building but is timed by computer.
Key on and fuel pump(s) keep running? bad eec, ecu computer or whatever it is called at the time.

There is a eec relay that is know to fail (ford OEM) in the on position or intermintanly work. It is usually located on drivers side fender or therabouts. Usually it is a brown or green relay that is 4 prongs but I believe the eec relay is brown. When it fails the relay stays on and when you turn key on the pump will come on and stay on the entire time. Also make sure that a previous owner has not hot wired the fuel pump to the power. You should be able to find the relay and remove it and the pump should stay off. If it comes on PO may have wired it direct to acc. I believe the eec relay and fuel pump relays are the same and can be swapped.

[tri again]

There is a eec relay that is know to fail (ford OEM) in the on position or intermintanly work. It is usually located on drivers side fender or therabouts. Usually it is a brown or green relay that is 4 prongs but I believe the eec relay is brown. When it fails the relay stays on and when you turn key on the pump will come on and stay on the entire time. Also make sure that a previous owner has not hot wired the fuel pump to the power. You should be able to find the relay and remove it and the pump should stay off. If it comes on PO may have wired it direct to acc. I believe the eec relay and fuel pump relays are the same and can be swapped.

EXcellent point.
They say the fuelpump relays can stick or hold moisture and freeze
but will work again when they thaw out too.

Sounds like you've been thru this particular fiasco.
ford-trucks.com is almost as cool as this site btw.

Since this computer problem is not real obvious, and not uncommon, I'm on the lookout for
another one with the same problem that I can fix for another 50 cents.

[TrailerRider]

EXcellent point.
They say the fuelpump relays can stick or hold moisture and freeze
but will work again when they thaw out too.

Sounds like you've been thru this particular fiasco.
ford-trucks.com is almost as cool as this site btw.

Since this computer problem is not real obvious, and not uncommon, I'm on the lookout for
another one with the same problem that I can fix for another 50 cents.

What gave you that idea? ;) My 1986 Full Size Bronco sat lifeless in my driveway for 3 weeks before I stumbled across that issue. What ended up leading me to it was that I could bypass the eec relay at the diagnostic port (on mine was under the hood) by jumping a pin to ground and it would come on but stay on. The folks over at fullsizebronco.com showed me that and soon after I went and bought the right one from ford. It was worth noteing that I tried to use the newer 5 prong relay that autozone sells but I could never get the dam thing to work. Think I paid $15 or $20 for the relay from Ford. A trip to the junkyard a few weeks later scored me 1/2 dozen relays (remeber the eec and fp relays swap). So I grabbed a bunch of the connecters and relays and keep them in my Ford under hood tool box :) I should also note that if you drive one of these 80-96 Bronco/F-Series trucks you should learn to bypass the eec rely and commit it to memory or a diagram somewhere in your truck that way when it takes a crap you can bypass it and get home :cool:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/822568/fullsize/dscn5341.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/822569/fullsize/dscn5340.jpg

[tri again]

another excellent point.
They say the pigtail connectors also go bad underneath the fuse, relay block.

My last thought is to get an extra distributor.
Apparently there is something inside the dist that is a pain to change.
Usually works cold but dies when hot. Easy to confirm with a hairdryer.

and I guess the bronco and f150's are about the same in a lot of ways.

I like your
'underhood tool box'
Everyone makes fun of all the stuff I keep under there too.

Heck, I know where it is, easier to see than under the seat
and it's all closer to where it belongs, right?

You figured yours out way faster than I did.
Mine took me 3 months to pinpoint a bad **** intermittent **** capacitor in the computer.

Bypassing them is also common.

Might be time for an 'entertainment' trip the the junkyard and get stuff
I MAY need in the future, as opposed needing it yesterday to get out of a ditch
so I don't get more 'parking/abandoned vehicle' tickets.