Yeah, I'm that newb....power issues...

[kNINEkid]

I have just acquired a YTM 200, I think and know very little about it or engines in general. I know the # on the frame is 21V-015899 but haven't been able to locate the year yet. Is there another # somewhere I'm missing? Also, the engine starts fine, but when I try to throttle it doesn't have any power. I took the carb out and cleaned it (didn't soak it with carb cleaner) with carb cleaner and made sure all wasn't clogged. Put it back on, but same problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks group.

[MonroeMike]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/107547-New-members-welcome!?p=1088699#post1088699

[kNINEkid]

Thanks mike....

[Swinger]

Does it idle fine and what does it do when you give it gas? Bog, sputter, shut off, doesnt rev??? Erie Pa huh?? May have to check it out when Im up there steelhead fishing soon if you would like.

[kNINEkid]

starts quick, idles fine but when i give it gas it sputters. Almost seems that when i'm in higher gears its not as bad. I'm pretty sure the carb is fine. Too bad I don't fish or I would be out with the rest of you crazies trying not to find the weak spots in the ice................ha ha.....

[muthey]

I hate to say this because you don't want to hear it but you need to pull the carb back out and completely disassemble it which means pulling all the jets, and replacing o-rings. Here is a link to a downloadable manual
http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/
My huess is the main jet which has holes running down the length of it is plugged somewhere, also when you pull the throttle slide out pull the spring back and look for a W clip. It is inside the back of the slide and holds the needle down. It is help in place by the spring, if it is not there it will allow your needle to bounce up and down when you are trying to throttle up.

[Swinger]

Off topic but how can you live in Erie and not fish, haha! I wouldnt be able to hold a job down if I lived there, because that is some off the best fishing I know of year round!! Did you check all the basics? Plug, air leaks around the carb boot, fresh fuel, carb adjustment screws?

[Swinger]

Listen to muthey, he helped me get mine going!!!

[muthey]

So you did finally get it running right, I didn't know you never said that the carb was better now. I hope you are either starting it daily or have the carb with stabil while it waits for the new parts. I know both of mine like to throw a fit if they sit for a month without starting. What peeves me is my 81 honda 200 sat for 5 months with nothing done to the carb, and when I finally rebuilt the topend I put it all back together, it fired an purred like a kitten on the second pull. Where ytm's like 4-5 pulls before even a sputter then a couple more and they run

[kNINEkid]

Thanks for the help Muthey. It actually starts in about 2 pulls when cold and seems to idle well. When I got it, it didn't have an air filter so I figured it would be a good idea if I cleaned out the carb thinking it had crud all through it. I didn't think it looked too bad considering, cleaned it up, sprayed out the nooks and cranys, and put it back on. Since, I have gotten an air filter for it. Any suggestions where to get O-rings for it? Not to be an idiot (but I am), o-rings are the same as gaskets???? Thanks again for the help guys.

[kNINEkid]

I hear the fishing is real good. Lived in AZ for a bit and haven't got into it just yet. Just bought a bow this fall so I'm trying my luck on that....

[muthey]

this is what alot of guys are getting for carb kit's
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Timberwolf-250-1992-1998-Carb-Carburetor-Kit-NEW-/120829517153?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c22001d61
I recommend getting a set of these when you go to clean the jets.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Standard-Torch-Tip-Cleaner-Solder-Oxygen-Acetylene-Welding-/260911027345?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbf825491
don't try and force them through the holes, but they work great to open the holes back up, any local welding shop or hardware store should carry them. Your first step should be opening the carb then cleaning it thoroughly, after that we can go through some other things, also it is recommended to get an air filter for that and make sure you lightly coat it in motor oil, not dripping wet just lightly. Then while everything is off take a coat hanger that is extended and run it up the air tube through the frame to ensure there are no blockages in the airway. good luck and let us know how that works for you.

[kNINEkid]

Ok, great. That's a good start. Just ordered both things. Another thing about the air filter. I have a feeling that it's not seated correctly cuz I think the box might be warped a bit from age. Any good tricks to make sure it's seated correctly? Thanks for the help....

[muthey]

I guess the main thing is that the boots are attached securely to the carb and down tube from the frame to the air box and the lid seals up. If it is warped bad enough you may need to replace the air box, with that style the filter isn't attached directly to the carburetor, so I don't think it matters that it isn't a complete seal in the air box. I think it is more important that the air box is sealed itself. You do have the rubber cap that goes on the bottom of the air filter box right? it is there to catch oil runoff but is required for a good seal.

[muthey]

If it is really badly warped let me know, I have a air box assembly minus the air filter that I can sell you for 35$ shipped, however try the other things first, and definitely check out the manual that I gave you a link for so you can get detailed info on your carb. I don't want to sell you something you don't need, so only if you feel you need it let me know.

[kNINEkid]

wow, funny you asked that. when i got it there wasnt even a lid to the box and there was a chesnut, i believe, that was sitting in the hole in the bottom of the airbox. i just thought that was a drain for the airbox. I bought a lid when i bought the air filter. it fits good but wasnt sure about the filter. By the way, i took the chestnut out...............maybe i should of kept it there...................... is there a place to get a rubber cap for the "chestnut drain"????

[Swinger]

So you did finally get it running right, I didn't know you never said that the carb was better now. I hope you are either starting it daily or have the carb with stabil while it waits for the new parts. I know both of mine like to throw a fit if they sit for a month without starting. What peeves me is my 81 honda 200 sat for 5 months with nothing done to the carb, and when I finally rebuilt the topend I put it all back together, it fired an purred like a kitten on the second pull. Where ytm's like 4-5 pulls before even a sputter then a couple more and they run I got it running good and its started and rode about everyday. The only thing I need yet is the axle and hubs but played around with air and put max air required in and seems to ride a little better. Other than that, the other night we went for a snow ride and I pulled the choke switch up to start it and "snap". Still runs good just needs extra time to warm up before riding it now, ha ha.

[muthey]

you can get a brand new seal from any yamaha dealer or parts store, is about 3$ and the clip for it as well it is also about 3$. Part number is
59V-14457-00-00 SEAL | YTM200K, and 90467-22080-00 CLIP | YTM200K

And 84t3 did you break the cable or the lever, cause I have the lever

[jckochan1617]

i live in topeka ks now but moved from buffalo and yes i fish all summer when im back home, bass,yellows, wall's and more

[kNINEkid]

Ok, the newb is back. Here's what I did and what I got now. Took the carb off and made sure the airways were clear, check. Purchased a lid and the bottom seal/clip for the airbox, sprayed filter oil on a new filter. Tore apart the carb and purchased the rebuild kit that was reccomended. Cleaned the carb and replaced the main jet, pilot jet, the needle and jet, and the idle screw. Put it back together and here is what I have. It idles fine but the choke has to be wide open. Even after running for a bit, if i close the choke even a little, it wants to stall on me. I've played around with the idle screw to get it to idle but thats about it. I'm assuming the since the choke has to be open, it's getting too much air in the carb? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks all.

[muthey]

ok next thought process of determination, try with the gas cap off, have you cleaned the fuel line? have you cleaned out the petcock on the fuel tank or cleaned out the tank? also check to see if the intake boots are cracked or torn in any way and do you have the o-rings that go to the intake boot? Check all that out and then if that doesn't do it the mixture screw on the bottom is I believe supposed to be 1 7/8 turns out from seated, if that checks out then you have a plug somewhere in your fuel delivery probably in the carb yet. Sometimes these darn things take awhile to truly get cleaned out.

[kNINEkid]

ok, i'm confident in my carb work (well, a little) so I checked out the fuel area. I found out that the top of the fuel filter was cracked and there was a small crack in the fuel line. I never noticed the fuel leaking out so im assuming it might have been a slow leak and running down the carb/engine or it was just sucking in air. Anyway, decided to take the tank off and clean out the petcock. I'm going to see if I can get a new fuel line/filter in the next couple of days. Thats all I got for now. Thanks again.

[muthey]

well hopefully that does it for ya, I run a filter on my wife's 200, but am running straight hose on my 225, I know it's not a good idea, but I've just never put one on yet and when I got it I super cleaned the tank and hose, and carb. I really should put a filter on it though. Let us know what happens.

[kNINEkid]

The saga continues......thanks for the info