New to Trikes

[Olphotodude]

Hello!
I was just given a 1984 Honda 200S. It had been left to sit outside and molder for a number of years. I got it home and after cleaning the carburetor inside and out it started on the third pull and ran great....for a couple minutes.....then the spark went away! I followed the shop manual and troubleshot it down to a bad CDI, which I have currently ordered from Ebay. I have cleaned all the electrical connectors and hope that the new CDI brings life back.
Most of the cabes are rusted tight, and the plastics and original tires are shot, all three wheels spin clean and without probems. The chain was rusted but the sprockets do not show much wear. I cannot get it to shift into neutral just sitting on the ground, I hope that is not an indicator of bad things inside the tranny. I will open up the centrifugal clutch side and clean that out while I await the new CDI.
I like working on "projects" and have a 73 Kawasaki CDSS 90cc that I resurrected, a showroom clean 1978 Honda CB 400TII with an original 1800 miles that I woke up last year, two older Harleys and now this cool old Honda three wheeler which I hope to make presentable again.

My biggest problem right now is freeing up the rear brake foot pedal. It is rusted solid to its mounting post. There is a rubber seal or grommet on the outside edge so I hesitate to use heat as a tool. Any ideas for freeing up and removing the rear brake foot lever would be appreciated, and any hints, tips or tricks for these old trikes would also be appreciated. I would love to ride this 3 wheeler around the Black Hills this summer!
Thanks!

[WJG1000W]

well it might need to move a little to shift into neutral try rocking back and forth
and if i were you id try to get the petal moving with a little convincing and some penetrating oil to keep it moving

[vonlindheim]

i'd change the oil, your plug might be fouled by old crud in the engine. we used to drill a small hole in the drum and shoot some wd-40 or lite oil to free up the drum brakes. then plug the hole shut with gasket seal or a rubber plug :) the coil could be shot so check that and the pulse generator ( side of head with round cap ). pull of the recoil ( pull start ) ans see if its full of water or crud too. that is where your charging ( stator ) is located ( behind the flywheel ). good luck :)

[Jerm1179]

:shiftyeyes: how would changing his oil help a fouled plug?
he said its the CDI not the plug....
and its the brake pedal thats froze...not his drum... :crazy:

[MonroeMike]

My biggest problem right now is freeing up the rear brake foot pedal. It is rusted solid to its mounting post. There is a rubber seal or grommet on the outside edge so I hesitate to use heat as a tool...

It didn't come with a rubber seal, someone may have put that there, because it was sloppy. Make sure you punch out the split pin, before trying to remove the pedal.

[JasonB]

welcome! sounds like you actually have a good idea about the problems. And the brake lever sounds like its going to take some creativity to get it off. Good luck man!!!

[vonlindheim]

MODEDIT: how is stating an obvious fact/asking a question about your information bitching at you? He didnt call you any names or say anything mean, he simply asked how changing oil has anything to do with a fouled plug. enjoy your MODEDIT :)

[ps2fixer]

I just freed up my 250sx rear brake lever a few days ago. PB Blaster, soaking for a bit, then tapping it with a hammer (rubber coated would be best if your keeping it ding free). I was able to work mine back and forth enough to not need to remove it, but my return spring has lost a lot of life.

[Olphotodude]

Okay.....all the cables except for the rear brake foot pedal cable were rusted solid, cut them off and the rear brake is good as new....almost brand new inside! The rear brake pedal took three days of soaking, twisting and pulling finally came off. The trike appears to have been abused, but not ridden hard(?) the sprockets do not show any wear at all and from what I can tell everything including the tires are original. I have pulled the starter since the new CDI did not fix the problem, and found that the whole alternator area is rusted, corroded, snarfed, and just plain bad. I have ordered a flywhee puller from Ebay for $15 and have been soaking the screw heads through the flywheel to hopefully make them easier to unscrew once I get the flywheel off. I am still concerned about the tranny....I have never been able to get the neutral indicator to come round to the "N" but the small sprocket spins freeley without binding, and while the engine ran for those couple minutes...it was spinning. Perhaps the past owner took it off and put it back on wrong?