atc70 rear axle siezed

[maximum-karnage]

Hi Guys,
yesterday my generally trusty atc70 stopped rolling ... more specifically the back axle stopped turning. I believe either one of the bearings or the brake is siezed. Probably the brake. I'm not very mechanically inclined, and I'm not a purist and don't use my toy very often, but would like to get her turning again. Now that i have the back end taken apart I cannot get the brake drum off to have a look inside. That drum should slide off the sprocket to the right of the trike, but is rusted and gummed up so bad i don't know how to get it off without damaging something. Any pointers would be most appreeciated.

[shortline10]

Yep heat is the KEY and lots or penetrating oil .

[TimSr]

Hi Guys,
yesterday my generally trusty atc70 stopped rolling ... more specifically the back axle stopped turning. I believe either one of the bearings or the brake is siezed. Probably the brake. I'm not very mechanically inclined, and I'm not a purist and don't use my toy very often, but would like to get her turning again. Now that i have the back end taken apart I cannot get the brake drum off to have a look inside. That drum should slide off the sprocket to the right of the trike, but is rusted and gummed up so bad i don't know how to get it off without damaging something. Any pointers would be most appreeciated.

Does the brake "arm" that your cable hooks to in the brake housing move back and forth or is it stuck? I am assuming you have already disconnected the brake cable from the arm.

When your shoes wear out, the little paddle that turns sideways to spread the can open so far that it ends up turned 180 degrees and sticking between the shoes. The little "arm" that your cable hooks to in the brake housing needs to be turned until it releases.

The other possibility is one or both of the pads came off the shoe, and was wedged itself in there between the other shoe and drum. You can usually break it loose by turning the wheels backwards.

[maximum-karnage]

Thanks for the responses guys. I don't have access to welding - would a propane torch be appropriate to apply some heat? And would I apply that to the axle where the brake/sprocket attach?

The brakes haven't actually been applied in years (they didn't work when i got it) but yesterday my brother did pull the brake handle about two minutes before it seized. That's why i was thinking it was the brake ...

Thanks again, much appreciated.

[outlaw85]

A propane bottle will give you more than enough heat but keep it away from the bearings! Try getting as best a look at it as you can to determine where it is holding up! Ya dont wanna go beating anything up that doesnt deserve it! lol If your pads are froze up, you may want to try some PB Blaster to break through the rust if thats your problem! Keep in mind though, if you do this your going to need to clean the pads with break cleaner to get the PB Blaster off them! They may need to be replaced if they froze up on you though! Keep us posted on what ya find out in there!

[maximum-karnage]

Gentlemen - finally had another chance to work on the beast today. Couldn't find any PB Blaster anywhere but used a recommended similar product. Also applied some heat, as well as a nice hunk of cherry wood between a good sized mallet and the axle ... eventually was able to knock the axle from right side through to the left side. The brake shoe pads were indeed broken and wedged in against the drum (I think anyway - it kind of fell apart as I took the drum off the axle). The brake arm mechanism is pretty well jammed and does not rotate but I plan on cleaning it up a bit more and getting some wiggle back into it. Thanks so much for the help guys, I'll be wheelin again in no time.

[coolpool]

Good job. The repair will be easy compared to getting it apart. If the brakes haven't been used in a while, make sure your brake cable moves freely. Don't forget to sand the inside of the drum with some coarse sand paper to clean out the rust.