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View Full Version : Help ! 86 YTM 225 DXL want run



trikestar
05-15-2012, 05:36 PM
hey i just recently picked up a 84 ytm 225 dxl for pretty cheap and its ran great till here recently due to carb problems. so i had the carb rebuilt and now it seems like its wanting to start/run but want. anybody experience this problem are no what it might be. i posted a pic below because im concerned with the middle screw in the pic, i dont no if it needs to be turn out or turn in, right now its turn in tight. any help anybody can share will be appreciated.

MonroeMike
05-15-2012, 11:31 PM
It should be tight.

trikestar
05-16-2012, 09:35 AM
thx for the info... i still can't figure out why it want start/run.

triZtwin
05-16-2012, 02:50 PM
i am having the same problem with mine, but mine is electrical. anyways make sure your getting enough fuel flow from the tank. those like their fuel flow, mine will not run unless the pidcock is on the RES setting, and thats due to a dirty pidcock. also turn your air screw all the way in and back it out one turn and try that. make sure your CDI is plugged in WELL. mine likes to vibrate loose sometime and causes it to run crazy. also hook up your fuel line to your carb with the bowl of the carb off and make sure fuel is passing through the needle and seat. and if it is, then push the floats up and see if the fuel flow shuts off. if that all seems to be fine, you should be good. those things are really simple, but mine sure is finicky sometimes. good luck. o one more thing the the main jet is the big one in the center, make sure that the thing is tightens to is in correctly!! its a grooved slot and when you look inside the carb, "as if you were to look through it from the air box to the head", that little brass fitting should stick up about a 1/4". it will only go in one way, good luck. also check needle height, put the circlip in the center position first, and make sure the little keeper is in place under your throttle spring where the throttle cable runs throuh to the slide, if that little horse shoe shaped thing is missing the neddles will float and cause flooding and what not....i know this from experiance lol.

trikestar
05-17-2012, 09:11 AM
i am having the same problem with mine, but mine is electrical. anyways make sure your getting enough fuel flow from the tank. those like their fuel flow, mine will not run unless the pidcock is on the RES setting, and thats due to a dirty pidcock. also turn your air screw all the way in and back it out one turn and try that. make sure your CDI is plugged in WELL. mine likes to vibrate loose sometime and causes it to run crazy. also hook up your fuel line to your carb with the bowl of the carb off and make sure fuel is passing through the needle and seat. and if it is, then push the floats up and see if the fuel flow shuts off. if that all seems to be fine, you should be good. those things are really simple, but mine sure is finicky sometimes. good luck. o one more thing the the main jet is the big one in the center, make sure that the thing is tightens to is in correctly!! its a grooved slot and when you look inside the carb, "as if you were to look through it from the air box to the head", that little brass fitting should stick up about a 1/4". it will only go in one way, good luck. also check needle height, put the circlip in the center position first, and make sure the little keeper is in place under your throttle spring where the throttle cable runs throuh to the slide, if that little horse shoe shaped thing is missing the neddles will float and cause flooding and what not....i know this from experiance lol.hey thx for the info... i will try adjusting the air screw in to see if that will help. right now i have it turn out 1 7/8th but when you try to start it it backfires and pops like crazy... all jets/needles are in there correct place and tight, float works properly and i put a new petcok on so its gettin plenty of gas to the carb. when i had the carb rebuilt i change the plug and its gettin good spark... ima do some more checking on it and let you no what i come up with.

triZtwin
05-18-2012, 10:02 PM
if your back firing, that says your valves are to tight, the compression is escaping when one of your valves is still partially open. therefore compression leaks by. take off the rocker covers and roll the motor over till the intake valve is up, there should be some play there, not much, maybe 5 thousandths of an inch, but u should be able to shake it. like i said it wont move much, but it SHOULD NOT BE TIGHT when the rocker arm is in the up position. if it is, take a ten millimeter wrench and loosen the nut located on top of the rocker. lossen the nut and the little square headed thing that the nut rides on, till you get that play in the rocker, then take a small pair of needle nose pliers and hold the little tiny square head, that the nut u just loosens rides on. hold that little thing tight and tighten the nut back down till its snug, and then check for some play. repeat that step for the exhaust side. if that dont work let me know... hope that helps

trikestar
05-19-2012, 09:30 AM
if your back firing, that says your valves are to tight, the compression is escaping when one of your valves is still partially open. therefore compression leaks by. take off the rocker covers and roll the motor over till the intake valve is up, there should be some play there, not much, maybe 5 thousandths of an inch, but u should be able to shake it. like i said it wont move much, but it SHOULD NOT BE TIGHT when the rocker arm is in the up position. if it is, take a ten millimeter wrench and loosen the nut located on top of the rocker. lossen the nut and the little square headed thing that the nut rides on, till you get that play in the rocker, then take a small pair of needle nose pliers and hold the little tiny square head, that the nut u just loosens rides on. hold that little thing tight and tighten the nut back down till its snug, and then check for some play. repeat that step for the exhaust side. if that dont work let me know... hope that helpsi was told that it couldve jump time and these motors are notorious for that... i will be checking that soon and the valves... when i picked this trike up a couple of months ago it ran fine and then all of the sudden it will would start but die once you put it in gear... so i figured it was the carb since the previous owner said it needed carb work... i had the carb rebuilt and its gettin gas and tries to start, but want start up and run... but thx for the info and if you can think of anything else feel free to let me no bc im new these trikes but always wanted me one.

trikestar
05-23-2012, 09:41 AM
update... well i was right on the timing it had jump timing by 3 teeth. i did set the timing back the correct way like the manual states but still no go. do you guys think the valves couldve got warp when it jump time ?

triZtwin
05-30-2012, 03:40 PM
i am not sure on the valves being bent or whatever, those are not a zero tolerance motor, but come to think of it i just bought a suzuki quad sport, and the piston sepereted from the wrist pin, and in doing so the piston floated to high and bent the valves,. so put a compression tester on it and check, thats easy and cheap. if it holds the compression you should be ok mechanically. should be at least 100 psi if not more,

trikestar
05-31-2012, 03:03 PM
i am not sure on the valves being bent or whatever, those are not a zero tolerance motor, but come to think of it i just bought a suzuki quad sport, and the piston sepereted from the wrist pin, and in doing so the piston floated to high and bent the valves,. so put a compression tester on it and check, thats easy and cheap. if it holds the compression you should be ok mechanically. should be at least 100 psi if not more,hey i decided to do a topend rebuild since it smoke really bad when i picked it up... should run good once i put her all back together but will keep you posted on how the build go.