Zinger yt60 help!

[tikki50]

IM so glad I found this forum its helped me so much thus far, enough that I've decided to join. So first post with a big hello to its members.

So let me start off by saying I bought my son a 4 zinger, it ran like utter crap. But did run. Brought it home cleaned the carb changed the reeds to boyesen still nothing. Bought a compression checker 60psi, Tore off the top end and its junk worn worse than a brake rotor. So I then found a guy on craigslist selling two red tri zingers with motors rear axles etc for 200$ can never have enough extra parts. However both cylinders were not up to snuff so I ordered a whole new cylinder set off ebay to fix the top end issues, hopefully. I also ordered a new spark plug system. I dont have the tools to check the autolube so thats going to have to be disconnected for now and run 32:1 premix.

So now Im waiting for the top end to come in and Im thinking while the engine is pulled what else I should replace. Im concerned about the crank case seals and if those should be replaced now or see if its leaking once the top end is on and engine is running. Ive never tore an engine down before and man this has been a lot of fun learning about the engines with my 5 year old. For a dad this is great experience, but I really want a running engine with my son you know go for the win!

Anyways, It seems the engines I've cleaned up thus far all seem to have WELL over the amount of fluids in the clutch area like double the amount. Which seems to tell me the crank seal is gone the fluid is dark with a slight white milky look. Do i really need more tools to replace these (aka fly wheel puller) Do I have to split the cases to swap them out? Will I hurt the engine and new top end if the seals are leaking? I know I should probably just split the cases and do the whole thing, but this project has been you touch it and it breaks what do you expect from a 30 year old machine. If it aint broke dont fix it!

Is there any way to replace the rear gear fuild in the axle without removing the special bolts?

and a stupid question, which side of the gasket goes on the crankcase the rubber or paper side? I would assume the rubber as yamabond would adhere to the paper.

when I had one engine running the carb was leaking really bad too I cleaned them and cleaned them again replace the valve nope. Seems to be coming from the drain plug. Next would be a new float that has checked out with the submerge test.

And finally I have LOTS of tri zinger parts if people are in need of anything. Frames forks fenders fairings, wheels tons of parts some in ok condition some look darn brand new. I have a fiberglass front fender as well all for sale along with engine components I dont need 4 engines, LOL.

[thestud25]

Welcome! Build a Trizinger and forget the quad!! With the amount of engine work that you are doing, I strongly recommend you getting a manual. I would be interested in some of your parts. Are your front fenders red? Email me some pics. bearsfan_2525@yahoo.com

[tikki50]

yes front fenders are red, I'll post pics when I get home. I have the manual, I just dont understand clearly the pulling of the cases, never seen it done before so I dont really want to screw it up. It seems that if Im not pulling the fly wheel apart I could swap the seals and put it back together without separating the fly wheel.

I will probably end up building a tri zinger since I have all the parts, but thats an over winter project :)

[tikki50]

Update. So I ordered aftermarket jugs and cylinder kits, I hooked the premix back up. Im having a heck of a time getting it running right. Over the past month I built one of the 3 wheelers so I now have a 3 and a 4. I honestly like the 3 better for myself, hence the retraction on sales until shes running right. Anyways Im having the same issue with both machines, both are almost identical minus the extra wheel:

I have a uni filter clamp on.
boysen reeds
new float and float needle.
spark arrestor removed and pipe as been burned clean
I ordered a bunch of jets 80-95. running stock 40 pilot with middle needle position. low-mid seems a bit rich but I wanted to try and get the top end sorted because I could never go past 1/3 throttle before. Now I can run WOT.
Currently Im running a #80 jet as anything else on the top end just made a machine gun pop pop sound and would never clean out. aka too rich.
they both seem to really scream now with the #80 jet and the plug is not indicating a lean conidition. However via GPS top speed was 21mph. Does this make sense? I recall reading they were suppose to do 30ish.
I live in Detroit, so altitude shouldn't be effecting me that much either way I have a jet for it, seems lots of qt50 modders end up at a 78 jet. Im just really concerned as to why I would need to drop to a 80 jet when I opened up exhaust some and uni filter should be allowing more air. Doesnt make sense. For reference I also tried with no air filter as a test same problem.

I measured the aftermarket jug and cyclinder they are in spec to stock ones. so its not a 50cc sold as a 60.

are these only suppose to go 20-22mph?
The reeds were essentially for a pw50 not a 60 would this cause this problem should I switch back to the stock ones?
Could compression be the issue? I bought a HF POS broke the first time when it hit 90psi, LOL cheap crap.

[thestud25]

How does your exhaust pipe look where it hooks to the exhaust port? Is it packed full of carbon? Have you pulled the baffles out of the end of the silencer to check and see if they are all plugged up? This was an issue on mine. I cleaned them out and it ran like a champ. I have heard of people pouring kerosene in the pipe and baffles and then throwing them into a fire to burn the carbon out. I have not tried this though.

[fabiodriven]

I wish I had caught this thread earlier when I had time to write something significant! I'll post back when I get more time.

[t350x]

I had a similar issue with my zinger, like previously said u gotta make sure u r getting the exhaust flow I cleared mine out and it ran 300x better, also lower the oil down a very tiny bit and it may also help, I mean very tiny a little oil goes a long way with these trikes I've found, but never too lean cause u don't want a rebuild again..

[tikki50]

its not the pipe, the pipe is as clean as new from port to tail (no arrestor). I've tried a drilled baffle and a burned clean baffle, I have found that when burned clean they are very close to a drilled one. Its not that they dont have power, but I've been a bit hesitant on leaning out the needles due to the lower main jet.

As for oil, no clue, the autolube looks good, now the pipe end is clean all the time slight oil ring on the end but no gook (80jet). The 92.5 had gook 4" back. the automix is whatever it is and seems to be fine as I have no way of measuring it. I have extra engines and will probably block one off when I have time. For now these autolubes are running.

Has anyone jetted these down and got better performance?

Can anyone confirm what the top speed on these should be, if im missing 8 mph that would be significant?

[TimSr]

The baffle is not the restriction point in these old pipes. The expansion chamber has a vertical screen wall right in the middle of it that always clogs. An easy check is to remove the entire exhaust except the headpipe, and see if it improves. Many end up running a full size two stroke silencer right on the end of the headpipe for a huge inprovement. Its obviously not as good as using a DG or custom pipe with an expansion chamber (that works) but you'll notice remarkable improvement, and you'll be able to get it to run wide open. Another option is to drill through the screen divider in the expansion chamber (about 1/2 hole") by going through the hole where the baffle connects to it.