Manual Cam Chain Tensioners on 350x??

[Audio_Phill]

Anyone have any experience with these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANUAL-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-HONDA-85-86-87-ATC350X-1985-1986-1987-TRX250-FOREMAN-/140823045547?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c9b525ab&vxp=mtr

Its very similar to the stock unit on my wifes old buell blast, and all you had to do was tighten it till you heard a change in rpm in the engine (usually able to do this with just fingers) then lock it in place and good to go for a while.

Think this would be a decent upgrade to a 350x?

Pondering this and a valve adjustment on my 350x. Getting more top end noise than I feel comfortable with. Wondering if the Stage 3 Cam may be creating more noise than normal?

[Audio_Phill]

No one has an opinion on this?

[85XMAN]

I have seen them all over as well. I was wondering if maybe someone had an idea what to torque it down to? if I could just torque it down with a torque wrench once in a while I would be down but seeings how its an aftermarket part I cant find much info either. also any idea of the amount of work to change the cam chain I got an 85 350X and am debating.

[barnett468]

Anyone have any experience with these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MANUAL-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-HONDA-85-86-87-ATC350X-1985-1986-1987-TRX250-FOREMAN-/140823045547?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c9b525ab&vxp=mtr



I have seen them all over as well. I was wondering if maybe someone had an idea what to torque it down to? if I could just torque it down with a torque wrench once in a while I would be down but seeings how its an aftermarket part I cant find much info either.

Hello;

IMO, you can adjust it with the bike running as described in the first post or simply put your piston on tdc fire position and make it moderately tight with your fingers.

If it's too loose you will hear it but if it's too tight you won't but your chain guide will wear quicker than normal.

Once properly adjusted you might re-check it after every 40 hours. It should not need adjustment for a while if you have a high quality cam chain like a DID or an orig or similar quality and a high quality guide.

[Rider414]

I notice increased valvetrain noise when I go to high performance cams.

[wonderboy]

Think this would be a decent upgrade to a 350x?


In my opinion, this isn't really an upgrade. Going from an automatically adjusting system that works fine to a system that requires periodic manual adjustment just doesn't make sense to me.

[Flyingw]

I completely agree with wonderboy. Since the book does not give any wear criteria then if the chain is stretched to the point where the adjuster is fully extended, its time to replace the chain. Pushing the chain wear beyond those limits only puts your engine at risk of failure.

[Audio_Phill]

right on, manual adjuster voted nay lol

[barnett468]

yes i also agree, occasionally an orig adjuster fails or gets lost in a 2 year long eng build etc. and an orig might be hard to find or very pricey so people go to these.

Some people also use these when their orig runs out of room which is not recommend.

this type is basically a last resort or possibly for a very high perf build.

[BleedRed]

I personally would never use one for the fact of putting more preasure on the cam and wearing out your cam journals/head. Just a easy temporary fix that would end up costing you dearly in the long run. Good luck with whatever you choose, and check that valve clearance first.

[200x flatrack]

I agree not really an up-grade. i built a high compresion, big cam, a big carb and everthing between on the 350x i raced in dist16 against the 250r machines. the stk cam adjuster did the job with no problem. Save your money and buy something that adds power!!

[85XMAN]

yep I have a noisy cam chain, but the tensioner is all the way out.... so yeh more or less looking for a temporary fix, anyone ever change a cam chain on a 350X? seems like a quite a bit of work. I did read on a forum about 200X but the 350 is obv a lot different. anyone with some ideas to make it easier would be awesome!!!

[Flyingw]

Its not that big a deal. Clutch cover, timing chain tensioner and rocker cover come off. Drain the oil of course. It takes a couple of hours if you've never done it. Follow the manual for setting up the timing and while you have the clutch cover off, you might as well change the clutch plates.

You'll need
Clutch cover gasket
Timing chain
Clutch plates if you decide to do that
Fresh oil filter
oil
Tube of black sealant

[El Camexican]

I totaly agree about a properly working stock auto adjuster being the way to go in most cases, but there is nothing evil, or damaging about running a manual adjuster either, as long as it’s properly adjusted and not torqued down on the guide. I was taught to set manual adjusters by rotating the engine in the direction it runs and screw in the adjuster in at the same time until the guide makes contact with the chain. Then back the adjuster screw out ½ a turn and snug the lock nut, but I’m sure any unit you would buy will come with instructions.

If you have aftermarket cams, or tight valve to piston clearances I prefer manual adjusters as you set them before you time your cams and check your clearances and then afterwards you don’t have to worry about anything changing, but again, I’m sure the stockers can work just as well.

As far as top end noise you can expect more with higher lift cams as the lobe profiles make contact with the shims, or followers (whatever you have) more abruptly and in a slightly different location than a stock cam lobe does. It doesn’t hurt to run your valve lash a little looser (.001” or .002” more) with a high lift cam, or stiffer than stock springs and that will add a little noise as well, but it will make your valve train last longer.

One other comment about top end noise. If you’ve been riding around on liquid cooled bikes and trikes for a few years and are only now riding something with an air cooled engine the noises are scary compared to the insulated purr of a liquid engine. I have to remind myself about that every time I fire up an air cooled engine, especially four strokes.