New to 3 wheelers could use some help on my 1982 Honda 185s

[Calabdiver]

Hello all. I just bought a 1982 Honda ATC 185s for 50.00 a steal I think. Anyhow I can get it started with the pull rope but it won't stay running I've cleaned out the carb and tried adjusting it. I ordered a new carb from ebay and should have it middle of next week. Hopefully that will take care of that issue. The other thing is this trike smokes a lot I'm about to order a new gasket kit of the whole engine and replace the gaskets as I go. Do you think it's the rings? Also I want to replace the valve seals just cause should I replace the valves as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks again in advance.

[yaegerb]

Rings and valve seals will fix the smoking problem. The new carb should make it run better. If not check for plugged fuel lines/ filter. If not that then check for air leaks around the intake boot.

[Calabdiver]

Also I went through the fuel lines and cleaned out the petcock really well so theirs no clog. It didn't have a fuel filter before but I ordered one so it will now.

[Calabdiver]

Can I re-use the valves and just replace the seals or should I replace both?

[dustrunner]

Yes, just re-lap them in...

[Calabdiver]

I noticed there are quite a few lapping compounds with different grit any suggestions on which to get?

[Calabdiver]

ok just purchased new valve seals, new valves, lapping tool, and full engine gasket set on ebay just need to wait for shipping.

[Calabdiver]

Anyone know it they make a gun rack for this trike? I'd like to use it for hunting as well as play.

[rouseanator]

I got a gun rack for my atc for 24.99 on rocky mountain atv witch has a bar clamp that can go on the racks of handle bars rocky mountain has a lot of good parts for atc thats ware i get almost all my parts fast shipment too

[Calabdiver]

Sweet I'll check it out thanks Rouseanator.

Quick update. I did an oil change today, and bought some valve compound they had two available oil, and water. I got the water soluble for easier clean up do you guys think this will work ok? Tomorrow I'm going to try and adjust the timing chain using the 3mm screw trick we'll see how it goes. For anyone curious here's a link the the Youtube vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpoHh9EMhaU. Thanks again for all the help any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Calabdiver]

Been having some problems with my pull start jamming and now recoiling any ideas? Yesterday when I took it off I noticed the spring was all bound up in a knot. I ordered a new one maybe that will help not sure.

[muthey]

check out this video for a really good tear down of your pull start. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqsNu6xY3Jg also when you have your motor apart have your cylinder and head checked at a shop to see if rings is all you need or if you need to have it bored and a new piston. might as well rebuild it right than have to go back in 6 months later and do it again. Here is a link to downloadable repair manual to help you do all this http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

[Honda250RinNC]

there is a company that sells rebuilt top ends (they re-machine your old one or they have cores available for extra+they look brand new like they are NOS when they are done) its
G&H ATV ive used them in the past with excelent results
http://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/servlet/the-Honda-185s-Three-dsh-Wheeler-Parts/Categories
they have heads and cylinders.
you can also use a 200cyl/piston for increased power

[Calabdiver]

Good tip thanks. Unfortunately the one shop I knew of closed down. I don't mind doing it myself and I'm sure the rings are shot. I blew my budget for the month of 100.00 on the parts I've already listed. Next month I'll be able to do it again and get more parts. I have it running good well as good as it can be with an old neglected motor. Starts up with one - two pulls which is way better than it was when I got it. The only thing is I only get about 6 pulls before then tension spring slips off the spool and won't wind the rope back up. I purchased a new tension spring so we'll see if that makes a difference. I fully intend on doing a rebuild on the engine I just have to wait a bit to get the new rings and/or piston. I'd love to have it bored out just not sure if it's in the budget.

[Calabdiver]

Thanks for posting the youtube vid I think I need a new housing the sharp tab that the spring attaches to the housing with is broken off on mine I just have a flat surface.

[muthey]

try bending the spring and see if it will hold that way, and the shop you are talking about Gils or Marks places in needles, or a different place in bullhead city? lol My wife is from needles so I know the area really well I lived there for a year

[Calabdiver]

The shop I was referring to is called Two Wheels in Ft. Mohave. I'm pretty new to this area so I'm not sure about the others in needle but I'll check it out. Thanks.

[Calabdiver]

Ok my new carb, fuel filter, and air filter came today. Here's the problem the fuel in sits higher than the old one. so there is a slight incline going from the petcock to the carb. is this going to be an issue? I know the fuel is gravity fed so I'm worried that when it gets low it won't have the enough force to make the incline. Any suggestions? I thought about taking apart the new carb and using it as a kit to rebuild the old one if I have to. Any suggestions are appreciated thanks again.

[muthey]

hard to say as you fuel cap is part of the gravity feed system as well, just keep it full before you go out riding and you should be fine, takes awhile to run one of those tanks empty. I didn't know about two wheels, try in bullhead as almost all of the shops in needles closed down, or try in kingman, as I could check it but I won't be down that way to visit until june and that is a ways away from now

[Calabdiver]

Yeah I guess keeping it full is an alternative I'm just one of those people that doesn't like things half assed or not correct. It got dark before I could really think about it and work it all out. Tomorrow I should have something figured out. Also I figured I could just cut the notch back into the pull assembly housing with a dremel that should keep the spring where it needs to be and I won't have to buy a new cover for the pull cable. The other thing is I have an old style metal tank not a plastic tank that I've been seeing on the web not sure what year though.

[muthey]

an easy way to tell what you have other than using the vin identifier on here is does your tank have a small little silver cap or a large black gas cap. do you have front suspension, and are your rear plastics one piece or two seperate pieces with a trunk in between them. the last year of 185 1983 was front suspended and a single back plastic. The plastic fuel tank is more than likely a clarke aftermarket tank that you are seeing.

[muthey]

does your 185 look like this 162169 or this 162174 the 83 185s

[Calabdiver]

I did run the vin it's a 1982 Honda ATC 185s for sure. It has the small chrome gas cap. The honda decal looks different from the ones I've seen including the ones you posted. I'll see if I can get a pic up tomorrow. I'm not sure I have the ability to post pictures yet on this site but I'll give it a shot. Oh also I don't have front suspension and my rear plastic ferring is one piece with the seat connected to it. Also the rear ferring has the decal with the model number 185s as well.

[muthey]

I think you might have a halfer there, half 82, and half 83 hard to say, but parts are mostly the same, just be careful if you ever change the rear sprocket they used two different ones between 82 and 83. I was asking my father in law last night about a shop you might be able to take your cylinder and head to to have it checked and machined if needed, and he said if there is anyone who would know, it's a guy at napa in needles, he's a short younger looking guy, and has slicked back hair. My father inlaw says he still works there, but I'm not sure as it's been two years since we were last there. He is totally into rebuilt motor and off roading jeeps and things. You can always check it yourself if you have a id mic, or telescopic gauges, and a set of calipers, plus a good strait edge.

[Calabdiver]

which parts do you think belong to the 83? I thought only the gas tank was wrong. As far as the cylinder and piston I was just going to replace the piston and rings with new parts and hone the cylinder head with a honing tool. I'm trying to keep it out of shop as much as possible due to the added expense. I'm also restoring a 61 Vw bug at the moment but the trike seams to be the cheaper of the two projects lol.

[Calabdiver]

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll261/calabdiver/IMG_0165_zps6bb2ecb6.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll261/calabdiver/IMG_0166_zpsdaaa70ba.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll261/calabdiver/IMG_0167_zps0dd6d0eb.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll261/calabdiver/IMG_0168_zpsd1f79029.jpg

[Calabdiver]

I did just take a ride on it and other than smoke it's a lot of fun.

[Honda250RinNC]

that is some sort of motorcycle or (bike of some-sort) tank

[muthey]

well the rear plastics are from an 83 tank is definitely a bike tank, it almost looks like you have a set of forks off of a older model 110. the thumb throttle is off a trx four wheeler. you kind of have a frankentrike there bud, but no worries, as long as you take care of it, it will last you a long time.

[Calabdiver]

Lol nice, My cousin says he knows a guy that basically has a 3 wheeler graveyard on his property so I should be able to finish the build to be correct. Or I can just make this one look nice and have it painted with the name Frankentrike of Frankenwheeler

[Honda250RinNC]

hey if you look at the pics in micky dunlap's thread about unseen trikes it looks like the same tank! ill post a link in a sec
and im pretty sure the trike is an ATC 200(or 185)
its a honda 80 tank

[muthey]

you'll have to let me know where that trike graveyard is, so when I'm down that way in june I can try and get a chance to look through it, I mainly have yamaha's, as I am weeding out my hondas

[muthey]

just found your tank it is off of a honda xl80

[Calabdiver]

Yeah I just seen the tank using yahoo search on a XL 75

[muthey]

I am surprised that the rear fenders lock down as the 82 lock the seat in a different spot, and the fenders are screwed in. Also does the tank bolt down under the seat or is it just sitting there?

[Calabdiver]

The rear locks down just fine but the gas tank just sits there it catches on the frame in the front and the seat holds the tank in place

[Calabdiver]

I got some parts in today. I got a gasket kit for the engine I didn't realize it came with the valve seals and the exhaust gasket so now I have two sets of those. I also got a lapping tool and a new spring for the pull start. I installed it but the new one is crap it jammed up on me and came unspooled in the case so now the hook that attaches to the reel isn't wound as tight as it was when I put it in.

[muthey]

I mentioned in the video on youtube to pay attention to the metal tab in the case that the spring hooks on if it is bent out even a little your spring will come off so check on that and you should be able to get it wound back up tight again. Can you take pics of the underside or your rear plastics and the frame where it latches down, I would like to see what the previous owner did to modify the original setup. Tank wise you can use any honda 185, 200 three wheeler fuel tank with yours and they will bolt down instead of buying a expensive plastic one for it if you are wanting to replace it.

[Calabdiver]

Yeah mine either been cut off or broken off cause its just flat. I'm going to borrow a dremmel and cut a new tab. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it.

[Calabdiver]

Some success was made today I dremmeled the pull start housing and made a new tab so that's taken care of and replaced the rope with some heavier duty stuff, and greased everything up for a nice smooth pull. Tomorrow I'll install it and enjoy a small win for the week. In other news I got my new valves in today so a quick update on parts ordered and received.

Received: Full engine gasket kit, New valves, New valve seals, New carburetor, New air filter, New fuel filter.

Services done: Oil change, and carb/airfilter installed.

Extra Parts: New valve seals, New exhaust gasket.

Going to do a top end rebuild next week when I get back from Northern Cali.

Muthey I'll get pictures posted tomorrow on that latch I just didn't get time today with all the running around I had to do.

[muthey]

no worries, I am just curious as the 185s latches at the back of the fenders, and hooks onto the tank area, and the 200 latches from the seat pan and the fenders are bolted on, which is why I am curious to see what they did

[Calabdiver]

162602
162603
162604

[muthey]

see now that's the right latch setup for an 83 185s, not a 82 185, like I said I think you have a half year model where they were changing things over to the 83 style, as that is the oem latching style thanks for the pics, I'll have to take some pics for you of the other style so you will know what I am talking about.

[trike savior]

suggestion from someone who has rebuilt alot of these engines. i do not know what you have in way of tools.
to check cylider head (sealing of valves) as you are tearing apart engine, take off exhaust and carb/manifold and take the camshaft out of motor (which you will have to do anyway later in tear down process) go to autozone and buy a $20 compression tester (will need one with three adaptors pieces to fit plug hole). remove the valve from engine end of hose (looks like valve core for tire and uses same tool). or you can buy a few fitting at hard ware store that allow you to screw into cylinder head and other end to air hose. either way the idea is you want to be able to hook up air from an air compressor and get it into engine. with the cam out both intake and exhaust valves will remain closed and the piston will go to bottom dead center. now you can listen to the intake and exhaust ports of the cylinder head. if you hear air escaping you have valve problems. dont worry bout hearing air in crank case, it is just going past the rings.
the other way to check is when you have cylinder head off turn it upside down so combustion chamber faces up and lock it in vice. put the spark plug in the hole tight and pour in gasoline until the combustion chamber is full. make sure it stays full (will loose some to evaporation) if it holds for few minutes your good. if it leaks it you should be able to look in each port and see which valve is problem
either way i would still replace the valve seals on the stem. i have told myself before all the oil was getting past rings and screw changing the seals. it came back to bite me in butt on one motor so never again always change them.
there is a too you will need to make to do this. you will need a large c-clamp as well, you are going to have to compress springs to get valve keepers out of there and be able to remove springs and what not to change seal. get a piece of pipe the size ot the valve spring on your bike (largest diameter) cut it about 2-3 inches long. now cut windows on each side of the pipe. all you need to leave is 3/8" top and bottom and a 3/8" spine 180* of eachother between each window. this will allow you to get in there with pics and magnets to get keepers in and out.
as far as boring your cylinder i would not bother. the only cylinders i have had to bore were ones that completely melted down and badly grooved the cylinder. its nice to know the size of your piston vs the size of the cylinder but if your just starting out i would imagine you do not have those tools. since your bike currently runs, unless you have deep grooves or alot of ridge you are good to just re ring it. (ridge refers to the area at the top of the cylinder (nearest the combustion chamer) where the rings do not make contact. this will essentially be where the bore size originally began. clean the carbon off this area and hook your finger and run your nail upward past it. my engines teacher always said if you can hang your nail on it it is .001". in most cases it wont catch your nail) if you are all good order a standard size set of rings as long as the top of the piston is not marked differently (oversize, will say .25 or .5).
the old piston should be reusable as long as it looks ok. small areas of scratches are ok, as long as a whole bunch of it doesnt look ate up.
next all you need to do is hone the cylinder. for most of the smaller engines you need to use a brake caliper hone from autozone. if you can use the regular engine hone, do so. there are plenty of articles on internet on how to hone a cylinder properly just look around or ask me. use vegetable oil not engine oil cause it will holds the stone particles instead of imbedding them in the cylinder wall. and thoroughly clean after hone, any grit fron stones on cylinder walls will hurt new rings. should be able to wipe cylinder wall with white towel and get nothing
always check the timing chain while you are in there. if the adjustor is adjusted all the way out it is time for a new chain. had a buddy overlook and 5 hours after his first engine rebuild he was doing another one because timing chain jumped teeth bent valves and cracked piston. $20 chain is cheap insurance
reassemble and enjoy