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View Full Version : Early 90's F150 straight six only starts under 70 degrees F.



tri again
05-10-2013, 01:24 AM
Silly truck ran great all winter.
Now that it's over 70, it refuses to throw spark.

Not like it won't start when 'warm' from running.

Simple ambient air temp over 70 and no spark.
I'll wait till dark and it WILL start and then hit individual components with a hair dryer till it refuses to start and I MAY have an idea of where to look or what parts to replace.

Is not throwing error codes and no check eng light.

The ford forums are not anywhere as helpful as this place.

I just have afunny feeling someone has been through this before.
Thanks

briano
05-10-2013, 12:42 PM
The ignition module on the side of the distributor. Had the same problem with mine

90nut
05-10-2013, 03:24 PM
i also was going to say ignition module. mine did ALMOST the same thing, but it would run till warmed up then konk out. I love the 300 straight six!

fabiodriven
05-10-2013, 06:17 PM
My 87 F-350 did the same thing. Very common.

tri again
05-10-2013, 08:01 PM
Thanks youse guys.
I forgot to mention 1992

I also heard that some of the ignition modules are inside the distributor and some are
mounted on the fender well.
It may either be black or grey but that's all I know.
I wonder which one I have.

I probably spent a month on the ford forums and you guys nailed it in under a day.

Guess it's time to a) try and find it on the truck and b) try to find a replacement.

I have 2 books but there are about 15 variations of each model so still a little bit lost.

bkm
05-10-2013, 08:12 PM
Its either mounted on the outside of the distributor or remotely mounted. If its on the side you can't miss it, and if its not follow the wires to the fender well. When I used to have 5.0 Mustangs, I always carried a spare and a modified 5.5mm socket wth me.

tri again
05-10-2013, 08:19 PM
I just looked under the hood.
Some say if it's inside the distributor, it's easier just to replace the distributor.

but I see a grey metal box on the fender well by the brake master.
I came in to google
1992 f150 ignition module to see what the heck I'm looking for.
Sounds liie I should order 2 of them.
Nice to have the truck for hauling gas cans for sure.

update:
yupp, it's a metal box with cooling fins and 6 wires near the left hood hinge.
easyautodiagnostics.com has a 6 page test procedure
to eliminate the pip sensor in the distributor but I'll just get an ignition module
since they are known to fail.
Also heard there was an 8 yr lawsuit about the ignition modules when they were in or on the distributor and they moved them in 92.

I fixed some melted capacitors in the ecu/pcm/computer a couple years ago so naturally that was my first thought of failure.

so maybe I'll have a trike truck to run to the dunes and meet the other west coast trikers in Florence, (?)

tri again
05-10-2013, 11:40 PM
Its either mounted on the outside of the distributor or remotely mounted. If its on the side you can't miss it, and if its not follow the wires to the fender well. When I used to have 5.0 Mustangs, I always carried a spare and a modified 5.5mm socket wth me.

amen bro

I always seem to have some tool that will work but the
ignition modules are some sort of super thin wall 5? or like you say
5.5mm deep as I';m sure it won't come with a heat sink.

I called the local junkyard after hrs and left a msg.
Maybe they have a handfull for 5 bucks.
I'd really like to cut one apart and send it to kbOnly.

Thanks for all your help.
@ 4:49pm Napa said there's one in Portland and it will be here by 9am.
Wonder how they do that.

Dirtcrasher
05-11-2013, 01:38 AM
I just looked under the hood.
Some say if it's inside the distributor, it's easier just to replace the distributor.

but I see a grey metal box on the fender well by the brake master.
I came in to google
1992 f150 ignition module to see what the heck I'm looking for.
Sounds liie I should order 2 of them.
Nice to have the truck for hauling gas cans for sure.

update:
yupp, it's a metal box with cooling fins and 6 wires near the left hood hinge.
easyautodiagnostics.com has a 6 page test procedure
to eliminate the pip sensor in the distributor but I'll just get an ignition module
since they are known to fail.
Also heard there was an 8 yr lawsuit about the ignition modules when they were in or on the distributor and they moved them in 92.

I fixed some melted capacitors in the ecu/pcm/computer a couple years ago so naturally that was my first thought of failure.

so maybe I'll have a trike truck to run to the dunes and meet the other west coast trikers in Florence, (?)

Once again, another inferior product.

This is why my father begged for crank windows, a carburetor and a cigarette lighter when he paid cash for a new truck. He got the crank windows but was forced to get all the other alterations. He would have been happy with a 1981 Toyota 2WD pickup.

tri again
05-12-2013, 11:31 PM
welp?
the ignition module and the tricky 5.5mm socket from Napa was around 100$.
Started INstantly.
Thanks everyone.

I went by the junkyard and the guy said I can have ignition modules for 5 bucks each.
I should pick up a distributor too for the pip sensor..and another computer.

Had to believe that so very little can leave one stranded.

I'm with DC on the simpler is better.
Gonna start looking for a precomputer straight 6
or up to 1996 that actually has error codes with real suggestions of failure points, or so they say.

tri again
06-04-2013, 10:15 AM
ok, updated ford gremlins.

New ignition module made it start and run for a few days. NAPA said the new ig mod is black but it's the same as the grey one. and no one else says that but it's only a dwell, advance difference.
Yesterday it had to be 83 degrees and it simply would Not start.
I think it stays cooler when running than sitting in the hot sun.

Usually fires like a honda in under 1 point 0 seconds.

Well, this am, it's like 43 degrees and it fired instantly.

I'm gonna hit the distributor with a hair dryer for a few minutes and see if it does NOT start, to confirm the pip / dist sensor and then maybe heat the ecu / pcm / computer and whatever else I can heat until it misbehaves.

Most say replace the tfi ignition module AND the pip sensor in the distributor,
or the dist as a complete unit as they are a pita and the gear breaks easily.

hmm, is it too early for refreshments?
...and why do all the cool kidz on the ford forums call the distributor a 'dizzy'?

maybe I'll find out when I arc myself to something important.

Keep smiling and have a great day everyone.
Hope it's puttering yardwork and trailrides laced with trikes and lil' red wagons for all.