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spark23ca
05-12-2013, 07:10 PM
i can't for the life of me figure out what this big black box is under the light on my big red..just bought ..kind of a basket case but its a honda..wires are cut on the box and i have no fire in anywhere ..lights spark dash anything 169231 any help at all is greatly appreciated

tri again
05-12-2013, 10:09 PM
Hi and welcome
.
Deep breath.
The box under the light is stuffed with wires and a couple fuses.
See if you can click on:
service manual
has everything you need and wire diagrams.

If you can find a thread from a couple weeks ago called:
"ugliest daily driver contest" you'll see my sx (same as es)
has one ONE wire connected and that's for the kill switch.

You should be able to easily get it to fire with the kick start.

Generally, there are 2 electrical systems.
one is for lights and charging and starter etc and the other is a dedicated
ignition setup.
Very simple really.

Just take your time, take pictures as you go
and please keep us posted.

Original owners manuals are also fun to read.
Should be on the front page of 3ww.

kb0nly
05-12-2013, 10:35 PM
I also have the manuals on my server, link below in signature... Just in case!

Start chasing wires with the diagram and see whats going on.

spark23ca
05-13-2013, 11:38 PM
thanks you both are very helpful

spark23ca
05-14-2013, 12:10 AM
it will only seem to let me download 25 out of 80 mb on the Honda ATC 250es Big Red (85-87) Service Manual ..is that cause i'm new?? lol ..tried it on iexplore and google chrome

spark23ca
05-14-2013, 12:25 AM
found a dude from april 20'th that still has it on the service manual link thanks

barnett468
05-14-2013, 01:42 AM
it will only seem to let me download 25 out of 80 mb on the Honda ATC 250es Big Red (85-87) Service Manual ..is that cause i'm new?? lol ..tried it on iexplore and google chrome


Hello spark23ca


This is my experience. Don't EVER use IE or Google Chrome. Download either the newest version of Mozilla Forefox or the version just before that which is what I have. Pray you are not on phone line.

If the manual does NOT load in less than 4 minutes [typically 1 minute for me]using Firefox your internet service sucks and is the problem.

spark23ca
05-14-2013, 12:06 PM
yeah i usually don't use ie ..i'm thinking of getting rid of chrome too..used to use mozilla...it changes every few years what works and browser is most susceptible to viruses ..usually the least popular ones work the best .. anyway i got the shop manual from the service manual link on the last page...i have it here too http://www.4shared.com/office/E90lxunq/atc250es-85-87servicemanual.html? i had to sign up but it hasn't asked me for money yet lol...don't click on the big big download buttons thats that ilivid spam crap

barnett468
05-14-2013, 12:15 PM
Hello

I don't understand your "susceptible" comment. I've been told most the viruses are attached to java script, they told me to disable it in my system.

spark23ca
05-14-2013, 12:31 PM
Hello

I don't understand your "susceptible" comment. I've been told most the viruses are attached to java script, they told me to disable it in my system.

i meant the viruses are made for the popular browsers ...or thought that ..good to know about java tho thanks

barnett468
05-14-2013, 01:03 PM
i meant the viruses are made for the popular browsers ...or thought that ..good to know about java tho thanks

Hello


All I know is my info came from either computergeeks.com or thegeeksquad.com etc. They helped me fix a virus online for free. Your info may also be correct in addition to what they told me.

spark23ca
07-05-2013, 08:13 PM
anyone have the same color wires as whats in the manual on the exciter and pulser coil ..the manual says i should have a blue /yellow wire and a green /white wire on the pulser ...i've only got a yellow wire ..theres not a blue wire on the whole wiring loom from the stator in fact ...theres a green/white a green acouple yellows and a black/red

SUPERTEX
07-05-2013, 09:13 PM
too bad your not closer to florida i have a buddy with a 250es parts bike that has a complete wiring harness on it im sure he would get rid of

just ben
07-05-2013, 11:14 PM
I have a whole wire harness if you need to go that route 40.00 shipped

spark23ca
07-06-2013, 12:22 AM
well the harness doesn't seem to be beat up or even been tampered with..its still got the grommets on it that keep it from getting wet on the case..its just not the same as the harness in the manual ..i'm just wondering if anyone else who has theirs apart has noticed the same thing..i willkeep that in mind about the harness tho...i got 2 cdi's as i bought one cause i thought this one was faulty...my neighbor has one i'll see if i can try my cdi 'on his to see if they are good..should have done that in the first place...i think i'll take a reading of his when its rolling over ..the stator and pulser thanks for the reply you guys here are really helpful

spark23ca
07-06-2013, 08:29 PM
well tried both my stators on my buddies 250es and they both made his bike run fine..also tested his and my leads coming out of the stator and pulser and the readings are about the same...still no fire or fire going to the spark plug coil..must be the rectifer?? do they make it not run..i thought that was for charging and lights ..just wondering .

barnett468
07-06-2013, 09:19 PM
Hello


Are you looking at the wiring diagram on pg 18-5 in the 250 ES manual below. If not you might have the wrong manual. If so then look at some of the other 250 bikes in case someone switched your harness, it's 28 years old you know.

Do you have all the correct switches and are they all connected?

http://www.kb0nly.info/ATC/index.php

SUPERTEX
07-06-2013, 09:29 PM
I don't know if i saw if you tested the CDI box i would try testing the CDI next if you haven't, that will make sure you don't go anywhere, you said you have a friend with a 250es also just plug your CDI box into his and see if it fires up also iv been told about putting it into the freezer or hitting it with a hammer, but i wouldn't try this until you know if its bad.

barnett468
07-06-2013, 09:43 PM
Hello




iv been told about putting it into the freezer or hitting it with a hammer, but i wouldn't try this until you know if its bad.

I am the one who says to put it in the refrigerator, NOT the freezer, but only under certain conditions. It can not harm the CDI in any way. Ones bike must actually RUN first before doing this, lol.

Hitting one with a hammer is not too bright IMO, besides most are sealed in "potting" material so hitting them won't shake anything internally anyway so what's the point, lol.

SUPERTEX
07-06-2013, 09:52 PM
I understand and sorry about getting the freezer and fridge mixed up but i have had friends that have hit there cdi's and got them working again and why isn't it smart if you've tested the CDI and found it is bad to hit it with a hammer it will not at that point hurt anything and it might make it run again, and i was only saying this about a known bad cdi i would never do this to a working CDI or to one that might be working only a known bad one.

barnett468
07-06-2013, 10:04 PM
I understand and sorry about getting the freezer and fridge mixed up but i have had friends that have hit there cdi's and got them working again and why isn't it smart if you've tested the CDI and found it is bad to hit it with a hammer it will not at that point hurt anything and it might make it run again, and i was only saying this about a known bad cdi i would never do this to a working CDI or to one that might be working only a known bad one.


Oh under that circumstance you have nothing to loose but remember I did say most were potted so it will only work on the unpotted ones most likely but I would only do it if the next step was to toss it out anyway as you mention. I have seen some pissed off people hit things a bit too hard if you know what I mean. If I told some one to hit a CDI with a hammer and it broke a CDI that might not have been bad or even if it was bad don't you think some of those people might be a little mad at me, no thanks.

barnett468
07-06-2013, 10:08 PM
Hello


Besides if I personally had a CDI that started working from vibrating it then I would replace it anyway so the bikes vibrations wouldn't possibly kill it again in the middle of the dunes miles from the cold beer chest, lol. Fix it right and you will only fix it once.

SUPERTEX
07-06-2013, 10:08 PM
Yes i do agree but as i said hitting a broken one does nothing but maybe make it work and if your not sure don't smack it around lol

Oh and yea i forgot all about that if it makes it run again i would buy a new one anyways iv been told there are really cheap ones for like 5 -10$ on ebay buy a few for spares and keep them in your trunk or something for just incase lol i mean they are made in china not japan = BIG difference!!

hublake
07-06-2013, 10:10 PM
Is the kill switch on the left handle bar in the right position?

SUPERTEX
07-06-2013, 10:12 PM
LOL i didnt even think about the kill switch i have done that before just a flashback from that post.

Oh i dont even know what year i forgot but the 250ES has 2 types of CDI boxes so make sure you get the right one, 85 250ES has just one round plug, 86-87 has the 2 plugs on it i believe a 4 pin and a 2 pin like all modern CDI's do, if you have this type your good to go if you have the older 85 CDI you might have to buy a used one for a few bucks more or upgrade to the newer type of CDI box.

barnett468
07-06-2013, 10:15 PM
Hello SUPERTEX


Sorry you just missed my post #22.

Also the freezer won't hurt it either, the satellites and rovers electronics are barely shielded and they work at 200 f degrees below.

SUPERTEX
07-06-2013, 10:20 PM
Hello barnett i wasnt sure if it would i just didnt want to be giving the wrong info, but thanks again i always enjoy your knowledge of most ATC's.

spark23ca
07-11-2013, 12:31 AM
thanks for all your suggestions ..i don't get on the net much ..and would have likely tried all of them...but i rolled er over with a home made test lite( old break like bulb with 2 wiress) woudln't lite up the test lite but it was hot and i was sweating and it and i was shorting it to the head shocked the crap out me ..checked the ground for continuity and there was none..bolted a ground wire to the frame ran it to the coil and lots of fire ..kill switches all still work ..was a freebie i guess..put gas in er and nothing ..took the carb apart and that old ethenol in the gas they have here in canada really gums er up..used carb cleaner and compressed air and it still wouldn't go threw the jets..i cut a piece of wire out of a wire brush and wiggle that threw and it helped..got it started only to see that the needle valve is leeking now...i cleaned it good might take twice to do it right tho as it was rreally dirty...has anyone ever changed the needle valve seat ...i don't see any seats in any of the kits i've seen online...i know wheres theres a car off of a 200m but is that smaller ..?? be easier just to change the seat if there was such a thing as i don't want to figure out how to jet a different carb ..anyone else done this?? by the way all you guys rock ..very helpfull
thanks

spark23ca
07-11-2013, 12:46 AM
are ya supposed to start a new thread when you have a new problem lol...i really don't know the etiquette for these forrums ..and thats the first time i've ever used that word

spark23ca
07-13-2013, 08:08 AM
boiled the carb in lemon juice got a few rides out of er ..its a plastic gas tank but i think i'm still going to have to get that clean before it runs right..bit boggy and missing on low rpms...strainer and filter will need changed or cleaned too..that lemon juice really does clean ..doesn't seem too hard on rubbers or plastic parts

spark23ca
07-14-2013, 09:46 PM
got er all running ..fixed a hole in the bowl of the bottom of the pepcock cleaned the carbs...i noticed after i fixed the bowl tonight i poored gas in the tank and the carb started to leak..so i shut off the gas and started it the vibration of the engine must have unstuck the needle valve so i i just said to hell with it and ran it ..it does have quite the till it warms up and a hesitation when you are at about 1/8 throttle ..i messed with the air screw didnt seem to make a difference...the slow jet was the dirtiest one likely its toast..i got a new carb kit ''made in japan'' on ebay and a new choke kit as mine is still froze shut ..hope that knock isn't piston slap or a bad cam...its sat for years from what it looks like maybe its just something that needs some oil run threw it for a while