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View Full Version : Using electrolysis to remove rust?



LonesomeTriZ
05-30-2013, 09:41 PM
I have been doing some reading on this subject and I like what I have learned so far. As you know they cannot put anything on the internet that is not real. So when I read about all the different techniques out there I wonder which works best. Have any of you tried this? How did you do it? How did it turn out? What are the best mixture ratios? Got any before and after photographs? How much surface prep was required before paint? What affect did the electrolysis process have an any paint left on the surface prior to treatment?

rjs89ia
05-30-2013, 10:23 PM
tried this a long time ago when i was in high school. just used a 5 gallon bucket and about 3 gallons of water with some baking soda. found a piece of steel to use as the sacrificial piece and one of the trim pieces on my chevelle as the working piece. negative on the part you want to clean and positive on the sacrificial if my memory serves me right. the piece cleaned up alright but im sure with a more effective setup you could get some impressive results. there are many different electolyte mixtures you could use that would work better and lengths of time you let it work. they say stainless works best for a sacrificial piece but it releases a posionous gas, that goes along with it already producing hydrogen gas so ventilation is very important.

jeswinehart
05-31-2013, 06:13 AM
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

Yes, I have used this method on cleaning coins found buried or lost under water with excellent results.

Member SCUBA done a write up on how he done trike parts, either on here or perhaps on 3w.org and it is a excellent write up.

LonesomeTriZ
05-31-2013, 08:03 AM
What about long term? Any negative effects with paint sticking or rusting earlier than usual?

rjs89ia
05-31-2013, 09:04 AM
I didnt let it run aslong as I could have so I believe there was still some primer on the part. Longer working times and a good electrolyte mixture would probably do justice to paint, since I only tried it once with a rather poor setup I didnt get the best results. Flash rust will generally happen when you remove the part from the electrolyte so its best to have a plan to prevent it.

LonesomeTriZ
05-31-2013, 09:07 AM
My power bill is about to go up.

rjs89ia
05-31-2013, 10:53 PM
Let it ride man. I dont think letting your battery charger sit on for a day or 2 will do much damage to your bill. Remember ventilation though or else you'll be rebuilding your garage and maybe even half the neighbors windows.

Ghostv2
05-31-2013, 11:08 PM
Ive always wondered and looked into it about the same time i got into this site for the purpose of trying to restore trike parts but never actually went through with it.

LonesomeTriZ
06-01-2013, 09:29 AM
I bet this would help seized up parts as well.

rjs89ia
06-01-2013, 09:55 AM
It may help to unseize, you just need a good connection to both parts. I tried it on an old cr125 chain and it wouldnt conduct at all. I'm sure with more connections to the part you will have a better chance of success.

rjs89ia
06-01-2013, 10:14 AM
Did some refreshing on this and I was correct in my earlier reply about not being sure where the electrical connections went. It was a 50/50 chance though and its supposed to be positive to the sacrificial and negative to the part to be cleaned.

LonesomeTriZ
06-01-2013, 11:57 AM
That is correct.

Billy Golightly
06-01-2013, 04:36 PM
Interesting, I've heard of this before but never paid any attention to it. It seems like you could do a "tray" of small parts (like nuts and bolts) if they were kinda spread out well, has anyone tried or heard of that being done?

LonesomeTriZ
06-01-2013, 04:37 PM
That is what I had in mind.

rjs89ia
06-02-2013, 01:20 AM
Could probably put them on a piece of wire or in a steel container, just as long as you have a good negative connection.

LonesomeTriZ
06-02-2013, 07:43 AM
I agree. A steel try or one of those baskets from a carb cleaner can.