250es Big Red Rebuild! (and a hello)

[Canuck84]

Hey Guys.
So I've been poking around the site looking for ideas on what type of 3 wheeler would best suit my needs.
There are so many nice rides on here, I got lots of ideas. A 86 250es Big Red fell into my lap last week. I know it runs but came ripped apart with boxes of parts. I read about taking the bottom off the fuel filter and clean out the bowl/nut part. I did and there was so much rust junk(no wonder why it has a plastic tank on it). Now in the bottom there is a pin hole that leaks. Looks like I'm going to have my hands full with this trike. I hope you guys are ready to answer a lot of questions. He also gave me a pic of when he had it before he gave up his rebuild.

I'll get some pics up soon!

[Canuck84]

Since you can tell its taken down where I can see almost everything. What should I check before I put I togeather to go for the summer!

[6speedthumper]

Looks pretty complete. Those engines will run for just about ever. We estimate Dad's '99 trx300fw to have nearly 30k miles on her, and I've only ever replaced typical maintance items. Same engine as yours, but more stroke. Anyway, remove and clean the petcock and it's sock (may want to just replace since they are so cheap). Change the oil and filter, do a complete tune-up, adjust the valves, adjust the clutch, clean the carb if needed, and go over the rest of the bike with a fine tooth comb. Not much to do to these old Hondas other then what I said above. Only other things to look at are the gear oil in the diff, and making sure that your brakes are (A) good and (B) adjusted properly.

[ps2fixer]

Looks to be in pretty good shape. Are you missing the head light guts, or are they in a box? lol

I have a hand full of 250es parts, shoot me a pm or reply to this if you are looking for anything. I don't have any NOS stuff or fenders, but some of the other odds and ends I'll have. Some of the parts are listed in my web store in my sig. Most of my parts are from the 85 model, I think the major difference between them is mainly the rear swing arm. I think I'm out of nice front racks (if your's is missing).


Are you doing an all out restore (make it look brand new), or just a light restore to freshen it up some and ride it?

[Canuck84]

Thanks for the reply. I have almost everything I need I think. The picture in my avatar is the machine all together, the picture he had on kijiji. Here is an update on where I'm at:
Took the back rack, foot pegs and foot brake lever, front rack/headlight guts to be sandblasted and powder coated.
Installed new battery and starter (starter was shot when I bought it, found out after I put in the battery)
Ordered new parts: right hand brake lever, tail light covers, font and rear brakes and cables, air filter, oil filter, head light bulb, hand grips, and front shock boots. When I go to pick up one of my orders I'm also getting the 10w-40 oil, the oil for the diff, and a spark plug too!
I guess I'm going for a semi-rebuild to make it look as new as possible with all the maintenance done so I have no worries for the next couple years! Lol

I am looking for 1 specific part though. The hand knobs that is used to hold down the rear fenders to the frame.
170881

Thanks guys. Would like to know any advice on oils I should use and whether or not to rip apart the carb. The tanks empty anyways now since I just pulled apart the petcock. I ended up using steel 2 part epoxy to seal the bottom bowl that had the hole.

[just ben]

those knobs don't come cheap.

[ps2fixer]

Them knobs are pretty commonly missing, about like the plastic side covers. I have a lack of them for my riders as well, a 12mm bolt works fine from like the rear rack (I have spares from parting out machines), but that is if you don't mind not having the ability to "dump" the rear rack with out tools.

Here is a pair I found on ebay, $57 though... and they look pretty beat up for a restore... http://www.ebay.com/itm/honda-atc250es-big-red-250-knob-rear-rack-carrier-grip-nob-atc250-1985-85-86-87-/370722628033?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5650ca61c1&vxp=mtr

I'll have to dig around and see if I can come up with some extras in good shape. I'll post if I find any.

[TxPowderCoater]

welcome and I dig your bike. I have a 200

[Canuck84]

So my starter is installed and with a touch of a button. Alive she comes. It idles for about 2 minutes then dies when you give it no gas. Not sure if the chock is stuck on.
ps2fixer - thanks for the eBay find. I only need one, I hope you find something lying around. I was thinking about fabricating one from a lawn mower. Let me know.
I can't wait for all the parts to show up so can post a final product!!

[kb0nly]

Do you have a Farm & Fleet or similar store up there near you? Last 250ES i worked on was missing those knobs too, i found a couple equipment knobs at the local Runnings Farm & Fleet down here for like $5 each, the knob size was just a tad bit smaller but it had the right size metric bolt.

There is sources of replacements out there. I know someone else on here pointed out a part number from Grainger as well at one time. They aren't nothing special other than a knob with a metric bolt, easy enough to substitute. You could even take a bolt and weld on a large wing nut to the head of it.... LOL

I mean that is if your not going for an absolute perfect OEM restore...

[6speedthumper]

Just get a carb kit and rebuild that sucker. Cheap insurance, they only cost about 20 bucks. As for oil, I prefer Honda GN4 10w40. Been using it for years on all of my Honda's. trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro is expensive though. I've used the Valvoline 10w40 and 20w50 atv/motorcycle oil from Wal-Mart, but my bikes smoke on that stuff. Put the Honda oil back in, and all's well. Only bike I have that does not smoke on the Valvoline is my Warrior.

[jeswinehart]

Yeah, those oem knobs are sooo over rated. I had a pair of knobs on my 85 bigred that came off a work bench that worked just fine and they looked darn near oem and worked even better then oem since they was like new.
I did come across a nice set of originals so I installed them.
Not a clue what I done with the ones I took off but PS2 + KB are correct about many inexpensive options out there. So many options it would not be worth my time to make replacements.
I googled "knob handle 12mm" and this is what popped up >>> http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGNI_enUS526US526&q=knobs+handles+12mm+bolt

[coolpool]

Welcome fellow Albertan! Nice BR, going to hit McClean Creek ORV Park with it?

[Larry T Moore]

last time I bought those knobs they was 12.50 apiece...but yeah...workbench knobs are about similar enough

[ps2fixer]

I checked around and only have 2, which I need for a 250ES I plan to sell when I get around to fixing it up nice.

[Canuck84]

Sooooooo... no parts yet from the 2 orders. I have got the powder coated parts back, they look great. I haven't installed them all yet as the front fork is off waiting for the boots and brakes. When I do the breaks is there seal I have to replace too?
Since someone cut off the brackets where the mudflaps mount, I found some truck mudflaps at a yard sale for $1 I'm going to fabricate up to fit the back end. Thanks for looking ps2fixer, I found a knob of a friend of a friend I hope for $8 bucks. I hope it pans out. Since I have no parts I thought about how I'm going to transport this since I only have a Dodge Nitro SUV. I found a trailer on Kijiji and have revamped it with a 6 inch lift so I can drive the Big Red right in, with me crouching beside it. The wife loves it since it has a topper and the added boat rack is bonus. Once I have all of the parts I'll certainly build it back up and have to post an updated picture.
One question that I do have is how can you tell when you need to change your wheelbearings. On the back brake tire I have about a quarter inch of side to side play is that normal?
171161

[Canuck84]

Here's the hacked up back end and the powder coted parts.
171163 171165

[ps2fixer]

One question that I do have is how can you tell when you need to change your wheelbearings. On the back brake tire I have about a quarter inch of side to side play is that normal?


Is it the whole axle moving the 1/4 inch or just the wheel? Sounds like the hub might be loose? Either way I'm pretty sure there shouldn't be any major slop in the side to side movement of anything to do with the rear axle.

[sstark82]

Looks great so far!! As far as oils go considering the weather in your area can help determine that. If its colder most of the time, you can go with 10w-40. I live in the South near Houston Tx, and I have always used mobil delvac 20w40. I know, I know, it's rated for diesel engines, but it works excellent for my babies and the added weight protects them a little better. Just my two cents.

[Canuck84]

Well first of all there's been some progress. I received my order from dratv and completed the brakes on the rear end and the cables for the hand levers. When I took apart the brakes it's was like brand new inside. I was surprised, I guess the seal never let any water in. Once I put it back together and greased it all up there's no more movement now on the back axle so that's a good thing. Since I won't get my order from Motorsport till the 21st (I placed it on the 1st) I also rigged up the back mudflaps. The order for the knobs fell through so I found 2 new oem on eBay for $14. Once Friday comes I can rebuild the front end and hopefully take her out on Saturday, so I can heat up the diff and change that too! Here's. couple pics I snapped.
171452 171453

[Canuck84]

Looks great so far!! As far as oils go considering the weather in your area can help determine that. If its colder most of the time, you can go with 10w-40. I live in the South near Houston Tx, and I have always used mobil delvac 20w40. I know, I know, it's rated for diesel engines, but it works excellent for my babies and the added weight protects them a little better. Just my two cents.


Thanks, I went with the Motul semi synthetic 10w-40. Suppose to be better on older motors! With that and the new spark plug properly gapped (the old one was at 35 thou) she runs great! I'm going with a 80w-90 synthetic for the gears.

[Woodsrider]

Damned nice job on the mud flaps ! I think I like them better than OEM.