1982 Honda ATC 185s Rebuild

[Amazon3d]

Hello again everyone.
I have a few questions as I am rebuilding this bike.
I have almost the entire frame apart (engine will wait till I have parts).
I took apart the front forks and the bearings are just loose, the cage was gone, just the balls remained.

Where can I get the replacement bearings and what type are they called?

Starting Break down:
171298 171299

Frame Stripped
171300 171301 171302

Rear Plastic / Seat
171303

Front Forks
171304

Handle Bars and Wiring Harness (re-wrapped and leads put on)
171305

Brake (missing Spring) had to get some Quicksteel to repair after I bent it back.
171306

Engine before/after re-wrapping wiring and putting leads on
171307 171308

Work Bench lined up
171309

Tank photos after painting
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171312 171313
171314 171315

Front wheel with Brake Hub removed
171316

Front Brake hub (half of it is missing)
171317

[shortline10]

Go to dratv.com and have fun :lol:
http://www.dratv.com/atdrwhandti.html



Hello again everyone.
I have a few questions as I am rebuilding this bike.
I have almost the entire frame apart (engine will wait till I have parts).
I took apart the front forks and the bearings are just loose, the cage was gone, just the balls remained.

Where can I get the replacement bearings and what type are they called?

(Will post pictures tomorrow)

[kb0nly]

Are you referring to the steering stem bearings? Thats how Honda's are, they have a race and loose ball bearings that ride in that race, there is no cage holding the bearings they are simply pinched in place as the steering stem is tightened.

As for replacing them if they are sloppy and loose the best way is an All Balls roller bearing kit to replace them. The only hard part is removing the lower bearing race from the bottom of the fork stem.

Here is an example...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-70-90-110-125-185-STEERING-STEM-BEARINGS-KIT-/370782600829?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56545d7e7d&vxp=mtr

[Amazon3d]

By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

[shortline10]

If your talking about the steering stem bearings their is no cage that holds them . When installing them use a thick grease on the race and place the bearings on the race carefully and the grease will hold them in place during installation .



By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

[Amazon3d]

Thanks Shortline, I've just never seen loose bearings in a steering stem like that before, they've always had a cage that held them in, unless the cage was broke.
Posting pictures of progress now!

[kb0nly]

By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

Yes, you have to remove the lower race up in the downtube but also the race that is on the stem on the forks, most guys cut it with a cut off wheel or grinder being careful not to nick up the stem because its pressed down on the stem and you can't just pry it back off.

[Amazon3d]

Is a 81' 200s exhaust compatible with 82' 185s?

Cleaned up the engine a good bit, also got a lot of rust off parts, have to coat them now.
Picked up some heavy duty grease to do the steering stem bearings with.
I'll snap some more photos later today.

[shortline10]

No such animal as a 81 200s LOL 200s came out in 84 . It should work but mounting tabs might be different .

[Amazon3d]

Well guess that they have it labeled wrong, looks like a 185s exhaust though.

More photos!

Mounting hardware came in from Lake-shore ATV Salvage, they look almost mint and for $20 shipped too!
171391 171392

Engine de-greased and Primed.
171393 171394
171395 171396

Started on repainting frame after de-greasing the frame (quite the job)
171397

Painted CDI cover
171398

Painted Shifter (Yes red, wanted to accent the engine which will be black)
171399

[Amazon3d]

On to new questions: Should I rebuild the top end; I checked inside the exhaust while I had it hanging and found large deposits of carbon, some I cracked off as large as 1/3-1/2" long. I cleaned it out the best I could with my pick but it still looks pretty carbon coated. I've never tore down a top end before.

Also my oil cap has a crack in the lip (chip too) and after 1/4-1/2 turn it will slowly drip oil (very slowly), should I replace this or is it fine for now?

[kb0nly]

Pretty common for them to carbon up, was the motor smoking (burning oil) at all? If not then i wouldnt tear into it, just clean out the exhaust port on the head.

I would replace that oil cap, you mean the dipstick or? A small leak will become a big leak eventually. And you don't want oil leaking all over your freshly painted engine and frame. Speaking of paint, be careful on the spark advancer i see you painted over it and the pickup, if you get paint buildup on the magnet end of the advancer it will hit the pickup coil, small gap between them.

[Amazon3d]

I honestly don't know if the engine smoked or not. I haven't had it running yet.

The dipstick is missing, but the cap at the bottom with the oil screen has the crack, 22mm nut size I think (have to pick up a few sockets).

Also would this LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Honda-ATC200S-ATC-200-S-1984-1985-1986-3-Wheeler-New-Carb-/280832151154?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4162e68e72&vxp=mtr) carburetor be worth getting? I don't want to buy a $300 racing carb for a 185 because I may end up selling and upgrading to a larger trike.

Any thoughts on my mounting rig :D lol

[shortline10]

24mm is the oil drain plug size . For now you can use a valve tappet cover , its the same size and wont leak unless the motor is running .

[Amazon3d]

It will leak if the motor is running? I thought they were the exact same? It doesn't leak if its tightened.

Also I won the bid on my exhaust, $0.99 + $24.25 shipping = Happy Camper Pic below.

171435
171436

[kb0nly]

I think he meant if you took a valve cover off and used it for the oil drain you would be ok until you want to run it due to missing cover.

If you can't find one let me know I have at least one of those in my spares box I can sell. There is a few on eBay also I am sure. Sounds like you need a dipstick to lol.

[kb0nly]

I honestly don't know if the engine smoked or not. I haven't had it running yet.

The dipstick is missing, but the cap at the bottom with the oil screen has the crack, 22mm nut size I think (have to pick up a few sockets).

Also would this LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Honda-ATC200S-ATC-200-S-1984-1985-1986-3-Wheeler-New-Carb-/280832151154?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4162e68e72&vxp=mtr) carburetor be worth getting? I don't want to buy a $300 racing carb for a 185 because I may end up selling and upgrading to a larger trike.

Any thoughts on my mounting rig :D lol

Nothing wrong with that carb I have used many of the cheap eBay replacements. Just pop off the bowl and make sure its clean first. I had a couple that had grit in them, thinking casting sand.

Apologies for multiple posts in a row couldn't figure out how to multiquote using phone app.

[Amazon3d]

Thanks for the input on the carb, was waiting for a reply before buying.
Yes I need a dipstick also, I know plenty of them but none of them want to be screwed into my engine lol.
Thoughts on the exhaust? Good deal?

How much for one of those caps KB?

You happen to have a spare carb insulator around? - Just bought one with bolts. $19.99
Ordered Drive Chain, Air Filter, new Front Axle with break hub, Carb, Exhaust, and Insulator.

Still need: Dipstick, Chain Guard, Front Brake Cable, Front Brake Lever, and Break Pedal Spring.

Total Invested: $80 Frame/Engine, $168.60 Parts.

[Amazon3d]

So a paint question for anyone who has painted their bike/engine/exhaust before, should I use high temperature paint for the engine, exhaust I know I should, but is it necessary on the engine?
I have several cans of regular gloss black from Wally world and a can of high temp for the exhaust (considered trying to find high temp red paint).

[Larry T Moore]

high temp paint usually wont work on the exhaust....either powdercoat it or go with BBQ grill paint...it'll be flatblack but it looks nice

[Amazon3d]

The high temperature paint is for grills (1500 degrees).

What about the engine itself?

[Larry T Moore]

ok...its what I used on my pipe...as far as the engine I went with engine paint from Advance...

[nlauffer]

I painted a 76 Kawasaki KZ750 exhaust header with the high temp 1500 degree flat black paint. I did not follow the directions exactly and the surface was not as clean as it should have been. The only spot that started to disappear was right out of the head as the pipes turned down.

The ATC 185s head pipe is definitely small enough to bake in an oven, which is one of the suggestions.

I am going to use Duplicolor engine paint from my local Napa in an aluminum or grey color for my engine. It is 500 degree I believe.

[nlauffer]

I also bought an ebay carb for about $25. I took it apart and it was clean. I had to change the choke lever over from my old one, as the new one was a spring loaded for cable operation. Very easy to do, just one screw. I have not ran the carburetor yet. The other thing is I think the attachment is different for the throttle cable, but I can't remember for sure. It might not have been, just seems like the slide looks different.

[kb0nly]

I will dig through my spares here and see what i have for caps, i know i should have one good condition one, just have to find which bucket or box its in! I don't think i have a carb insulator but i will look for that too.

I agree on the exhaust, i have painted many of them with cheap bbq paint! The nice thing is if it starts to burn off over time you just hit it with a wire brush and recoat it, it does last a long time though. One exhaust i painted with that stuff has held up for three years worth of use now and its just starting to show rust at the bend to the head.

I should have some time to dig around through my spare parts later today and i will let you know. You might want to search ebay a bit also just in case i can't find one, they usually show up for $5-10 depending on condition.

[JasonB]

wow man this is coming together QUICK! nice work, and awesome bargain shopping too man! keep it up, interested in seeing the finished product. At first i thought a red motor wouldnt look good and then i thought about the 1st gen air foolers and ya that would actually look pretty cool potentially! in for updates!

[Amazon3d]

What is the electrical out put of the 1982 185s?
I am trying to figure out what kind of headlight and tail light power I have at my disposal.

[nlauffer]

It should be 50w at 5000 rpm. The headlight is 45w and taillight is 5w taking up all the power output. This is according to the manual. They made a DC power kit as an option but I don't know why or what it really did except add a battery.

[nlauffer]

Just found it

For brighter headlight when the engine is at idle and for accessories.

[Amazon3d]

So I have 4 Amps to work with.... Damn. A 500w halogen headlight would be nice lol.
Will probably look into LED though 3.5amps for a LED headlight isn't super high. Considering doing some custom work and changing the tail light to a tail/brake.

The Frame will be Black, the Forks are getting new coat of Red, the Engine will be Black, The Shifter will be Red.

I have the engine almost finished, debating on 3-4th coat of black or just clear coating now.
The forks have been cleaned and primed (1 coat). The shifter is done. The Brake Bell is done, One of the wheels I have to get a small pair of vice grips to get 2 nuts off as they are stripped/rusted.

Now for a surprise issue. The front Hub/wheel. I got my new axle in with brake hub and it is for a 3 bolt rim, my existing rim/axle is a 4 bolt. Which one is correct? Both are seen in the 82' service manual which is weird.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1052783_10152921521940004_1421341681_o.jpghttps://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1040348_10152921523100004_1458029636_o.jpg

More updates this afternoon.

[Amazon3d]

Another question, what's an easy way the check timing and valve clearance before I put everything back on the bike?
Any other pre-assembly check list items? Gonna try to find a gasket in town for exhaust and put together this weekend.

Photos:

Cleaned and Primed Forks
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/922698_10152921526265004_1670377150_n.jpg

Painted Forks
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1002808_10152921519780004_1444993526_n.jpg

Crank Breather Tube/filter and Carb Filter
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1040372_10152921520675004_876307568_o.jpg

Frame: First layer of Black
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1039779_10152921524880004_889593043_o.jpg

Engine Painted Black - Pre Clear Coat
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1006192_10152921527535004_511602623_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-photos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/5603_10152921528330004_973576542_a.jpg
https://photos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1010749_10152921530630004_776148593_a.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1044486_10152921534075004_1362619302_n.jpg
Original Unpainted forks in background
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/6483_10152921535590004_1243860588_n.jpg

[Big G]

Man, who says you need a shop to do a trike rebuild! Perfect example of "where there's a will there's a way."

Anyways good work and looking forward to seeing the final product!

[kb0nly]

What color/brand of red paint are you using? Looks like a pretty good match in the pictures!!!

As for your LED comment... You got plenty of power to run a bright LED or a pair. I have a pair of 27w LEDs on mine total draw is about 4a, you could easily get by with one 27w LED Flood, they are insanely bright. The nice thing about these LED lights is they have an operating range of 10-30v so even at idle they are bright and only getting brighter as rpm goes up and you get more output from the alternator.

[Amazon3d]

Walmart paint, gloss black. After talking to my dad about it maybe I shouldn't have painted the top end with regular gloss.

What light do you have on yours? Still waiting on exhaust.

Hoping to finish the paint tomorrow and start assembly.

[kb0nly]

What color is the red though?

I have a 27w LED Flood and a 27w LED Pencil on my 200ES, i bought them off ebay. The flood really gives good close coverage and the pencil beam gives you that nice long reach high beam light. When the light switch is on low beam its the stock low beam headlight, when i go to high beam that shuts off and the LED's turn on. Way more light than a stock high beam.

171619

[Amazon3d]

Its red? - Fire Red according to small label.

Doesn't have a hexadecimal color code on it lol.

What size is the bearings in the steering collar? I'm missing 2. (40 total I count in my box)

[Amazon3d]

Bad news, broke bolt on carburetor, also cant get it out, tried with pipe wrench, think I cross-threaded it and snapped. (screw was hard to put in to begin with.)
Engine painted, make-shift air boot (1 1/4" PVC no hub), Carburetor on, Air filter, Crank Breather filter.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1052163_10152925517460004_927204164_o.jpg

Frame Painted
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1053099_10152925516840004_1732368598_o.jpg

[Amazon3d]

Almost Complete, just need the exhaust in and it will be ready for tuning.
The Chain was a pain in the bleeper to get on.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1052748_10152928376015004_1262533242_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/980217_10152928375045004_1515138859_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1053325_10152928374385004_917700058_o.jpg

[Big G]

I could be wrong, but I think your rear tires are on backwards.

Nice to see your build coming together! Paint your rims and re-cover the seat would be a nice finish.

[Amazon3d]

Yes, rims are on backwards, kinda did that on purpose.
Seat cannot be recovered (if you take apart the seat it will brake the screws).
Rims..... Well they will get repainted in time, very hard to get that rust off.

[nlauffer]

I've never had a steering stem apart, how hard was it to put back together? Also, where did you find the two missing ball bearings?

[Amazon3d]

Was much easier than I thought it would be.
You grease the bottom race inside and the fork race.
You put the balls (21) around the race in the grease (though I had 20 on top and bottom because I lost 2)
With steady hands slide the shaft into the neck and push until it seals. (should have the bike on its back/rack, makes it easier)
Grease the top race and the race ring, put the top 21 balls on it and slide it down the shaft, again with steady hands or you may end up with contaminants on the bearings. (I won't go into how I know this :P)
Push the top races together good then place your cover on and screw it down fairly tight (but don't over-tighten).

It takes a lot of patients and a steady hand to do it but in the end it's worth it.

[kb0nly]

Looking good! Just a hint on that crankcase breather though... I have the EXACT same one on mine because i hated the stock setup with the hoses and plastic T... BUT, don't put it on the way you did. Take a short piece of hose and put that on the motors hose nipple and then get a male to male hose barb to put the filter on the other end so you can hang it pointing down behind the motor. Why?? Cause its a perfect damn rain funnel! I found out the hard way, thankfully i was going out to change oil the day after a heavy rainfall, i got water and oil when i drained it and realized that filter was the culprit. Since making an extension for it and aiming it down no problems whatsoever and the oil stays a lot cleaner than it did with the stock breather setup that could suck in dust.

[Amazon3d]

Funny thing is that's the way I had it at first but the hose was so tight on the nipple I couldn't get it down all the way.
But I will return the setup to way you mentioned.

[kb0nly]

Tight is not a bad thing... The tighter the better for a good seal regardless of hose clamp. If you can't get it to go down all the way heat the end of the hose by dipping it in boiling water and then push it on, it will flex more hot and go right on and once its cooled down that sucker is on there! I do it with a hot air gun all the time to if you have one.

[Amazon3d]

Painted Header Pipe
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1039635_10152942417415004_217162543_o.jpg


Painted Muffler
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1000705_10152942417085004_1329164837_n.jpg

QuickSteel patches I made
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/942610_10152942416075004_1614563433_n.jpg

[jb2wheels]

...
Now for a surprise issue. The front Hub/wheel. I got my new axle in with brake hub and it is for a 3 bolt rim, my existing rim/axle is a 4 bolt. Which one is correct? Both are seen in the 82' service manual which is weird.
...


The 81 185s came with 3 bolt hubs/wheels. The 82 came with 4 bolt setup. Not much else different between the two.

They should interchange if you have the matching rim.

[Amazon3d]

Okay so I have everything together and had no spark. I had to pick up a washer for the spark advancer, did not notice but it was missing the bolt to keep it from skipping. Now it has spark again.
I also put some fuel in the cylinder and tried pull starting but not getting any fire.
Is it possible the advancer is upside down?

[kb0nly]

Yes it is possible to have the advancer off 180 degrees.

[Amazon3d]

I rotated it and got it to come to life for the first time in the 6 months I've had it!
Though it only lasted 15-30 seconds the first time and I didn't get it on camera the second time I got it to fire up (took a lot of tries) it ran for 10-15 seconds then guzzeled out.

I am trying to get the video on youtube but my camera wont upload without power supply which I misplaced.....
Will post video soon.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1052571_10152948709065004_301352484_o.jpg

[Amazon3d]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6cUHVkuPpo

[kb0nly]

Brief running and dying like that means fuel issue! Set your mixture screw and make sure the idle stop is set a little fast and then you can adjust it for a good idle speed once its warmed up.

[Amazon3d]

This screw?

172292

I turned in it till it was at the seat and back out 2 full turns. Still not starting.

[kb0nly]

Yep the pilot screw in that picture. If thats the case, believe it or not, you still got a problem in the carb. Plugged passage or partially clogged jet. They can be a bugger.

[SUPERTEX]

Iv had so many problems with gas sitting in my carbs and trying to rebuild them and they still not working right i just found a good site for china replacement carbs almost always a direct bolt up and go setup, and there cheap as hell got my 200e Big Red carb brand new for 20 bucks almost as much as a rebuild kit!!!

http://www.caltric.com/ .......... This is the site iv got the carbs,starters, and some stators too all working very well!!

http://stores.ebay.com/CALTRIC ......... Here is there Ebay store.

[Amazon3d]

This is a new carburetor. Actually the same one you have listed there.

[kb0nly]

If its a new carb might be the wrong size jets, i have come across that many times with these cheap carbs, i usually swap the stock jets from the old carb to it and all is well again.

[Amazon3d]

Bike didn't have a carb when I got it.
Also I still haven't pulled out that snapped screw and re-threaded it yet so there is a small gap between the engine and insulator. (3-4 pages thick)

[barnett468]

Hello amazon3d


I watched the video and to me it seems like it is either running out of gas or the spark is stopping possibly due to the plug loading up with oil. I think it is not likely that an incorrect pilot jet is causing the problem but it’s possible it may be contributing to it. Others opinions will vary.

How much choke are you using to start it?

What is the air temp when you first try to start it?

If you are using full choke try half.



I still haven't pulled out that snapped screw and re-threaded it yet so there is a small gap between the engine and insulator. (3-4 pages thick)

Do you mean there is a gap between the rubber carburetor mounting boot and the cylinder head that leaks air due to a slight space because one of the mounting bolts is broken?

If this is the case there is no point in trying to do anything with it until it is repaired.

If you are determined to run it like this for some reason you can clean the area with a small toothbrush size wire brush followed by brake cleaner then flood area with High Temp or Ultra Black silicone. Let it dry 24 hours or it will fail guaranteed.


High Temp

http://www.all-spec.com/products/81160.html?gclid=CKPYl8u2jLgCFVMV7Aod4HQAGg


Ultra Black

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/umi-82180?seid=srese1&gclid=CO_3t82ujLgCFSRp7AodLAMAoA


If it still has the same problem you can do the following.

1. Take a 10” piece of clear plastic tubing and connect it to the float bowl drain fitting

2. Tape hose securely to carb with open end even with top of carb.

3. Turn gas on.

4. Open drain screw.

5. Has will flow into tube to the exact same level it is in the carb.

6. The gas should be from level to the bottom edge of the carb where it meets the bowl to 3/16” below that level.

7. If level is incorrect then adjust float.

8. Once level is correct leave clear hose attached and start bike. If it starts then dies look at the gas level. If gas level is near or at the bottom of the bowl it is running out of gas.

9. If it dies and gas level remains the same then remove plug and inspect it. If it is bone dry it is not getting gas from the bowl; to the engine on a continuous basis, If it is the least bit damp it is most likely flooding. Leave it put for 5 minutes and re-inspect it, if it is still damp then it is getting coated with oil and possibly fouling. If this is the case then clean plug and try again.

10. Lay plug on head and see if it sparks.

[Amazon3d]

Thanks Barnett,
The gap is between the head and the metal carburetor insulator. I wasn't sure how much of a problem that would cause. I will take it out and retap the hole.
That is a neat trick with the gas drain tube, will keep it in mind.

I started it with 1/2 choke and air was around 85 degrees.
It has really good spark, shocked the crap out of my hand, bright white/blue.

I also need to get a gasket for the exhaust, I will likely replace the o-ring on the carburetor insulator as it is fairly flattened.

Edit:
Looks like I will be cutting off the stud and drilling it out, vice grips couldn't get a hold of the stud.

[barnett468]

Hello Amazon3d




Thanks Barnett, The gap is between the head and the metal carburetor insulator. I wasn't sure how much of a problem that would cause. I will take it out and retap the hole.

You definitely should, the part numbers and some dealers for it are below. The 91304-HB3-003 number might be available at your local Honda dealer, if not you can get it at the dealers below.

CARB INSULATOR O RING ALL NUMBERS BELOW ARE INTERCHANGEABLE.

91302-200-000
91302-943-003
91304 – HB3-003

$3.70
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-91302-943-003-Cylinder-O-Ring-33-5x3-ATC-90-110-200-CB-125-175-350-Oem-Nos-/280858087486


ITEM 22 $3.90
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc185s-1982-usa_model7173/partslist/E++01.html#results


$4.63
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-91304-HB3-003.html?gclid=CKf88bXLjLgCFVEV7AodumYA7Q


$4.76
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-91302-943-003-Cylinder-O-Ring-33-5x3-ATC-90-110-200-CB-125-175-350-Oem-Nos-/280858087486


$4.76
http://www.partzilla.com/index.php?p=product&id=244609&parent=1&is_print_version=true


ANY ITEM 9 $2.49 - $5.73

http://www.purehondaminot.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#%2fHonda%2fATC200M_A_(84)_ALL-TERRAIN_VEHICLE_(ATV)%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH3TB054-EC300005%2fGASKET_KIT_A%2fATC200M-84-JPN-A%2f2Y14VM3ENOILL1A







That is a neat trick with the gas drain tube, will keep it in mind.

It’s been around forever as far as measuring gas goes but I adapted it for uses like yours. It will give at you least 1 instant answer and maybe 2.







I started it with 1/2 choke and air was around 85 degrees.

Ok, my opinion, based on that info, and how it started in the video, more than likely your pilot is not too small and it’s possibly slightly large but not a concern yet.







It has really good spark, shocked the crap out of my hand, bright white/blue.

LOL, great but you still should do the test I suggested.







I also need to get a gasket for the exhaust,

Below are originals, there are several aftermarket ones on Ebay from Vesrah and Emgo. They should be ok.

EXHAUST GSKT

PART NUMBER
18291-216-000
18291-MN5-650


ITEM 1 $2.49 - $3.05

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1984/TRX200+A/MUFFLER/parts.html


ITEM 1 $3.25

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc185s-1982-usa_model7173/partslist/F++14.html#results

[barnett468]

Edit for my post #61.


"as far as measuring gas goes" should read "as far as measuring gas level goes".

I have no edit button.

[barnett468]

Edit for my post #61.


PART NUMBER
18291-216-000
18291-MN5-650

should read

PART NUMBERS

18291-216-000
18291-MN5-650

[Amazon3d]

Okay, so I have rethreaded the hole and put everything back together.
I am getting bright blue spark, don't think I have a ton of compression but it is roughly 4-5x harder to pull with plug in than with it out.
I have some fuel on tip of plug but am not getting a start. I think it backfired once (broke my pull string).

[Big G]

http://www.caltric.com/ .......... This is the site iv got the carbs,starters, and some stators too all working very well!!

http://stores.ebay.com/CALTRIC ......... Here is there Ebay store.

I never knew about Caltric before. Looks like a decent source for parts...Thanks for sharing Tex!

[Amazon3d]

Okay, So I have a good seal on the Carb and Insulator, everything is tight, I'm getting fuel to the head, spark, and at least some compression (not sure how much I should have) but I cannot get it to start.
Any idea where I am going wrong, could it be valves?