ATC 185 Breaking up!

[RancheroNHRA65]

Hello, I am new here and I have an ATC 185 engine that is now on a custom go-kart and I had a few questions and problems.

1.) This is a recent problem I have been having, after about 15-20 mins of run time the engine begins to break up and occasionally stalls. Its almost as if there is
an interruption of fuel flow or too much when it stalls for it happens when I put my foot into it. However I do not think its a carb issue or fuel issue, I am thinking it is the stator coil or the CDI, it has a brand new coil and plug so that will not be it. I am willing to bet this is an ignition problem but wanted additional opinions.

2.) It has been about 15 years since I disposed of the frame (due to one hell of a wreck, some things just should not be attempted on smaller bikes :lol: ) and I do not recall the year of the bike I think it was somewhere in the 82-85 range, is there any way to tell from the engine what year for parts ordering purposes.

3.) It has the automatic clutch on it and when shifting through gears it takes a decent amount of time to fully shift into the next gear when I shift up, but shifts down just fine, does the clutch need adjusted or replaced?

4.) Does anyone know the max bore for the ATC 185 I would like to bore the cylinder but wont touch it until I know what the max I can go is. (Not looking to have no options if SHTF)

[barnett468]

Hello



Hello, I am new here and I have an ATC 185 engine that is now on a custom go-kart and I had a few questions and problems.

This is a recent problem I have been having, after about 15-20 mins of run time the engine begins to break up and occasionally stalls. Its almost as if there is
an interruption of fuel flow or too much when it stalls for it happens when I put my foot into it. However I do not think its a carb issue or fuel issue,


Is it possible your fuel filter is getting clogged?

Is it possible you do not have a vent on your gas tank?

If there is no vent it can cause this problem due to vacuum being created I your tank.

xxxxx

I am thinking it is the stator coil


Ohm test it per manual both hot and cold per manual if it is within range under hot conditions it should be good however you can volt test it also. Voltage might be around 40 at 2000 rpm or 20 while starting with plug laying on cylinder head.

xxxxx

or the CDI,


Once the problem, starts what is the soonest you can restart it and have it run properly ie 15 min, 45 min etc?

If it takes at LEAST 1 hour of sitting to run properly after the problem occurs then you can put the CDI in the bottom of the fridge [not the freezer] for 15 min miminum immediately once the problem occurs and try again. If it runs good your CDI is bad.a.

xxxxx

it has a brand new coil and plug so that will not be it. I am willing to bet this is an ignition problem but wanted additional opinions.

xxxxx

is there any way to tell from the engine what year for parts ordering purposes.


Someone here will know that.

xxxxx

3.) It has the automatic clutch on it and when shifting through gears it takes a decent amount of time to fully shift into the next gear when I shift up, but shifts down just fine, does the clutch need adjusted or replaced?


If you mean it shifts but the clutch slips then adjust per manual and make sure you are running 4 stroke oil designed for use with wet clutches. If it slips After that the clutch discs are likely bad as opposed the centrifugal clutch but I would replace both and the centrifugal clutch shell if it has grooves in it.

OEM FICHE AND PARTS FOR SALE, CLUTCH.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc185s-1983-usa_model7174/partslist/E++08.html#results

xxxxx

4.) Does anyone know the max bore for the ATC 185 I would like to bore the cylinder but wont touch it until I know what the max I can go is. (Not looking to have no options if SHTF)


Others will know this.

[RancheroNHRA65]

I removed the fuel filter temporarily to try that.... Fresh premium fuel and it has a brand new fuel cell so theres no deposits so i wasnt to worried about removing it for a bit. It is vented and I removed the cap to see if that was the problem no change. If it stalls it will start back up immediately but will continue to run poorly. I think you may have solved my clutch issue I did not realize what i had was not made for wet clutches. It will run better after about 25-45 minutes of sitting depending on ambient temperatures. I did shake downs for problems all spring and it didnt have any problems running until the temperature rose. I will test the stator soon. I am pretty sure the spark advancer is good wire was touching the frame when i was putting it together and it about knocked me over when i tried starting it... The way it is breaking up though is still making me lean towards an ignition problem.. Have a new carb in transit to the shop was cheaper to buy a new carb than to rebuild my old.

[barnett468]

Hello

It is not the carb, it is most likely an electrical part as you suspect. They can fail when hot then work when cool, that's why I recommended to put it in the fridge. It's much cheaper than simply buying one. It is most likely not the exciter coil since it works when cold. There are no transistors or resistors in it like there are in the CDI.

Your problem is not likely your clutch oil unless it suddenly occurred after installing a different brand than you were previously using, however definitely try that first.

Did it previously work then suddenly quick working for no reason?

[MonroeMike]

...is there any way to tell from the engine what year for parts ordering purposes...

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/141286-Honda-Engine-Serial-Numbers