5 pin CDI install with multiple pics and other start button no worky...solenoid?

[ericmreimer]

Quick back story
Free '84 200es received from neighbor, no CDI. Was scavenged for another trike I was told. Everything else is there. It is hotwired at the light because of lost keys.

-First problem related to CDI or not, not sure. Before and after the CDI swap, the only way to get the starter solenoid to work is to jump it with a screw driver. I thought the CDI would fix this but it didn't, still had to jump the terminals after the swap too. Related or not?I'm going to get the diagram printed and start going over it to see whats going on. Thinking bad solenoid? There is nothing when its in neutral and i hit the start button.

Here is how it is hot wired
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I ordered the 6 pin connector as suggested in and chinese CDI from e-bay. All seems well, I have spark :cool: but didn't fire it up because I'm waiting on some parts.....new carb and air filter.

I swapped out the CDI last night with the new plug and took a few pictures. I'll probably make a better diagram than what was in that sticky as well. It did the job though. I did not use the new brass pieces, I just release the existing and went on my way. Worked just fine. CDI and connector as received. Super quick shipping too!
I just wanted to document some of my progress so far.
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Factory connector
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Shot of the CDI itself
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Small tweaker screw driver I had in a set that was perfect for releasing the pins.
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How you release the wires from the connector, too a whole 2-3 minutes.
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Old wires in new connector
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Attached to the new CDI
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EDIT!!......forgot....some progress pictures of the trike

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[kb0nly]

Awesome job! I wrote up that sticky on the CDI swap, good job on the pics. I have had to explain many times that the contacts can be re-used in the new connector shell, provided they are in good shape. Your contacts look good.

As for the electric start, no its not related. I would almost bet that you have either a bad solenoid or a bad safety relay. On the back of the battery box along with the solenoid there is a small automotive type relay and the rectifier/regulator. The relay is energized by the neutral switch, it switches the ground for the neutral light and that safety relays coil. I have had a few now that the small safety relay was bad/burnt out. The inhibitor switch as the diagram calls it, has two Green/Red wires that are the input and output, its in series with the start button and the starter solenoid. Unplug it and jump across those two wires with a piece of wire, paperclip, whatever. Its a switched ground not positive so no fear of shorting it on something else.

If the starter solenoid now works after bypassing that relay then its just a bad safety relay. All this does is prevent running the starter while in gear, on mine i just bypassed it by pulling those two green/red wires out of the connector trimming them back and soldering together and tossed some heatshrink tubing over them and then tucked all back into place. You could replace the relay too if it really worries you.

If the starter solenoid still doesn't work then its most likely a bad solenoid.

[ericmreimer]

kbOnly....you are the man! Will post progress update tonight! I'll probably replace it but for now I'm going to jump it out to check it. Info is greatly appreciated! :cool:

[ericmreimer]

When I got home my new carb was there so I put that on and jumped out the green/red to green/red on the in hibitor switch. Not only did it still not make the starter switch work but it didn't fire like I had hoped. So I'll need some help to trouble shoot my no start problem.

[ericmreimer]

I disconnected the starter relay and hooked the yellow/red directly to the battery with a jumper and since the green/red is a switched ground, I put it to ground and the solinoid kicked the starter fine. I don't think the starter solinoid is bad. I think the green/red circuit is not grounded somehow. The yellow/red has 12 bolts constant. So this tells me for some reason the green/red is not going to ground.

[kb0nly]

Have you taken apart your start button? Take the screw out of the bottom of the handlebar controls and then you can take off the start button switch. I would almost bet your problem is in there. Either badly corroded on the contacts or the wire on the moving contact broke off. I have cleaned and repaired quite a few of these start button switches. Usually it just requires a little cleaning and then soldering the broken wire back on. You got power on the yellow/red and the solenoid works otherwise so the only issue is the switched ground, which is that little bugger of a button switch... LOL

As for the no start.... The new carb will most likely need adjustment as well, but was it getting fuel? That is, was the spark plug wet?

[ericmreimer]

I have taken it off everything "looked" ok. Haven't disassembled it. I think i'll jump it out to eliminate it from the circuit maybe use a pushbutton switch for right now like this one....
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Now that I think about it, the Green/red has to be going to ground because the neutral switch light is coming on. It wouldn't work otherwise. So the switch has to be bad. I'll mess with it some more and go from there tonight. It got too late last night.