Why no reproduction '84 rear fenders??

[ericmreimer]

Anyone have any idea why there wouldn't be repo's for the rear fenders on an '84 big red? Been looking but it seems there isn't one available.

[kb0nly]

Maier never made them that i am aware of. The problem is the 84 is kind of a one year on its own unit. You can make other years of the fenders from the 200's fit but i don't think any of them work 100% correct with the rack and such.

They do show up used on eBay fairly often. I just saw a really nice set on there last week for $150, i almost bought them as spares... LOL

[Buck Snort]

I have wondered that too. Honda sold more of that model than any other atc , did they not? Also I think the 82 and 83 B.R rear fenders are the same. 200M?

[ericmreimer]

So my fenders are not cracked and in ok condition. I'm cool with using them. my front is trash though. I called Maier and talked to a lady and she told me there were issues with the way they are molded.

[kb0nly]

If you watch eBay long enough you will see some good front fenders. Might be someone lurking around on here with one also.

[Roadkill]

I have 2 '84 Big Reds and there isn't a fender on between them that isn't cracked/broken in some way shape or form....So I wondered this exact same thing (why no reasonably priced reproductions).
It seems like there would be at least some market to make replacement fenders considering the prices I regularly see them go for on fleabay.

I was thinking about trying to repair mine with fiberglass and resin figuring whats the worst that could happen...I might make them even less usable than they already are?
If I were better with a welder and sheet metal I would just make some myself, but I am not nearly that talented.

[kb0nly]

I tried fiberglass and resin and it wouldnt stick right, or it would stick and peel off. This plastic is hard to get anything to adhere to. Glues and epoxies are a temp fix at best.

If you have cracks but not pieces missing, i would go with a plastic welder! I got one last year for $45 from Harbor Freight and bought some clear rods for HDPE, high density polyethylene and then a chamfering bit for my Dremel tool. All you do is clean the plastic good, i wash it down with dish soap and water and a scrub sponge to get dirt and oils off, followed by a cleaning with Acetone to really degrease it. The grease won't keep it from welding but it will cause discolorations in the melted plastic. After cleaning you use the chamfering bit to make a groove along the crack, following the crack with the bit. That gives you a place to fill in with the weld just like if you were beveling the edges of two pieces of metal for regular welding.

Then you use the clear rods and plastic welder, the clear rods will melt in and take on the color of the original plastic. Overfill the repair so its like a weld on metal and proud of the surface. After its fully cooled i take a small block plane to shave the repair nearly flush with the surrounding surface, then some sanding through various grits to get it down the rest of the way and smooth. After that you can buff and polish if you really want to make it look nice, but you can make the repair almost invisible.

[big specht]

I think maier mad some ? I will try to get some pics of the ones I have for a bike Im working on. He has one side and a front that are shiny maier .

[ericmreimer]

please do. I actually called and talked to them and they said that there is a problem with the molding process on these.

[Roadkill]

I tried fiberglass and resin and it wouldnt stick right, or it would stick and peel off. This plastic is hard to get anything to adhere to. Glues and epoxies are a temp fix at best.

If you have cracks but not pieces missing, i would go with a plastic welder! I got one last year for $45 from Harbor Freight and bought some clear rods for HDPE, high density polyethylene and then a chamfering bit for my Dremel tool. All you do is clean the plastic good, i wash it down with dish soap and water and a scrub sponge to get dirt and oils off, followed by a cleaning with Acetone to really degrease it. The grease won't keep it from welding but it will cause discolorations in the melted plastic. After cleaning you use the chamfering bit to make a groove along the crack, following the crack with the bit. That gives you a place to fill in with the weld just like if you were beveling the edges of two pieces of metal for regular welding.

Then you use the clear rods and plastic welder, the clear rods will melt in and take on the color of the original plastic. Overfill the repair so its like a weld on metal and proud of the surface. After its fully cooled i take a small block plane to shave the repair nearly flush with the surrounding surface, then some sanding through various grits to get it down the rest of the way and smooth. After that you can buff and polish if you really want to make it look nice, but you can make the repair almost invisible.

I have both types of damage to my fenders, cracks and chunks missing, but am intrigued with this idea of welding the plastic. I've seen those plastic welders and, I'm guessing like many others, assumed that it was just a ripoff that would immediately break the next time you bump it. So you are saying this actually worked well enough to withstand all the vibration and whatnot of a trike offroad? If that is the case, I am all over this and will be heading to Harbor Freight to pick one up tonight.

[kb0nly]

Yes, its no gimmick it works great!

Its the hot air type. It needs a small air compressor to provide the air pressure. They do have another model with a built in blower, looks like a hot air gun without the trigger type handle on it, just straight handle with a temp control on the back end.

http://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-air-motor-and-temperature-adjustment-96712.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html

I have the one that needs an air supply. My small 5 gal air compressor is more then enough airflow for it. It only needs 15 psi at around 2-3 cfm is plenty. You just need a decent regulator ahead of it. The electric one that doesnt need an air supply is probably more convenient for some, but costs a lot more of course.

Its a plenty strong repair if done like i explained. You weld both sides of the crack, front and back. I generally only worry about making the front side look nice and the back side i just groove it out with the dremel then weld it up and leave it.

Maybe some day i should do a picture show and tell on repairing a fender with one of these. I don't have the time right now but maybe this winter when i am utterly bored inside... LOL

I have actually had a front fender i repaired get hit really hard and rather then cracking where the repair was it broke in a totally new place! It's quite strong after being repaired. The only trick is to make sure you use the right rod for the right kind of plastic your repairing. The fenders are HDPE or LDPE, you just have to make sure you use PolyEtheylene rods. There is some ATV stuff out there that is ABS, as well as the plastic bumpers and such on cars. If its ABS just get some ABS rods. I have also done PVC to the point that it holds up to city water pressure just fine. I had one case where a guy drilled into a wall and went into some PVC water line for the laundry closet next door. Drained the water after shutting it off beveled the edges of the hole and welded it up. After cooling it was fine. I have also welded cracks in snow plow blades, toolboxes, heck even kids toys and anything else plastic. It takes a little time to learn but its worth it as everything seems to be plastic these days.

I havent had mine that long either, i just started fixing everything in sight with it... LOL

[big specht]

I looked at the fender better tonight its a new factor one and a maier front . I will try to post the pic wed