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View Full Version : 1986 tri-z project started



youngbuckatc
08-25-2013, 09:56 PM
2-3 yrs ago I picked this trike up ran it for couple months lost compression one day parked it in the barn knowing id get to it one day.That day would be this morning and what a mess this really is. main issue so far is swing arm bolt must be groved due to bearings wore this thing dont move at all has anyone ever cut this bolt where the case has a gap between swing arm being a project I reached the point this morning I had to just walk away scratching my head for ideas :crazy:176106

Tri-Z 250
08-26-2013, 08:52 PM
Get yourself some Blaster lube....soak every bolt. A sawzall with a metal bade will cut it, but thats a last resort. You can figure if it's that locked up you'll cut and chizel the bearings too(extra blades). That area gets lots of grim and needs lubed after any season of riding. A Banshee swinger bolt/nut combo will run $75 to 90 dollars depending on material of the bolt. Pressing out the remainder of the bolt will be much easier once the motors out and swinger is loose...Goodluck

youngbuckatc
08-27-2013, 07:47 PM
Thanks over lunch last few days ive blasted the lube to it and have managed to break it loose seems to be in a u shape based on the movement ive got it to back out couple inches only like 9 more to go ive also found a hairline crack in swing arm no big deal thinken this Z has had a pretty rough life

Akracing
08-27-2013, 08:24 PM
So what's the plan total resto or just quick rebuild? Good luck and keep us updated...

youngbuckatc
08-28-2013, 08:51 AM
Full restoration with few changes plan is powder coat from add a extra 1.5 to swing arm run the 200x hubs engine a little worked I want to be able to ride this anytime and have it reliable as it can be

Tri-Z 250
08-28-2013, 12:40 PM
The bow is from hard hits on a blown rear shock....that's $800 you'll be needing so budget wisely...

Have your read this??? www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/16277 This important info and a must read for anyone who owns a Z. I recommend an extended +2" axle from a Banshee/Blaster with billet matching hubs before extending the swinger. Powder is expensive, save it for a Custom rear shock and progressive springs/bushings to rebuild the forks. I'm more about go than show...no shame in running old plastic, on a Beast.

youngbuckatc
08-28-2013, 08:59 PM
I have seen this alot of good info one question is the warrior shock a direct bolt on I see the banshee is not needs mods my shock is blown out was looken to get it rebuilt if possible I plan on keeping my plastics white its just gonna show every scrape as they do now id really like the powder coat now just so its done this trike has alot of sentimental value with it I hate to bypass it but im yet to dig into engine I do know coolent was full of oil shaft seal more then likly once its completely on the floor and I got a chance to go over all parts and build a budget up ive got big plans I know if it takes me two yrs im also ok with that long as its right

I weld stuff
08-28-2013, 09:49 PM
I look forward to watching this project come along. It might be good motivation for me to get one of my Z projects finished.

Tri-Z 250
08-28-2013, 10:54 PM
Yes the Warrior rear shock will bolt right up...but I personally don't recomend it. If your in a pinch or limited on budget and plan to light trail / FT or TT it will get you riding the machine. Yes many will disagree and testifie to abusing them with no problems. Heck alot of guys use them in the Race Series MX,HS,FT,TT,Hillclimb today. The shocks are all over and easy to get from $65+up. So I can see the reasoning to go this route. Look on the front page for an Artical called Frankin Shock Zrebuild...It can be done, but again a choice. To me the Aftermarket will give you exactly what you want...for All levels of riding,rebuildable,adjustablity,performance...and: drool:factor. Don't think I'm knocking PC it's sweet...but be honest, you'll coat 35peices or better before you get to the frame. Before you know it turns to polish-n-chrome for the this and thats. Take the side cases off drain and flush the bottomend, take some pics and see what the jug looks like loose. Clutchbasket,waterpump propeller, flywheel, crank ect. Hows it look? Start there box and ziplock bag with notes of removal...If you have no manual take lots of pics to referance the notes in the bolt bags. I know what a long term Zrebuild takes...if a sentimental value keeps you plugging away, don't forget you get to ride it when it done. Good luck

youngbuckatc
08-29-2013, 06:58 AM
176292 after days of soaking and turning at 630 am she came out with little fight gonna be a good day176293

youngbuckatc
08-29-2013, 02:55 PM
If I would go the paint route instead of PC what type of paint would I want to do so I havnt got a clue on paint other then catipilair yellow what ever kind of paint it is it lasts forever

youngbuckatc
09-01-2013, 09:55 AM
176435 pulled jug of this moring to find the melt down

youngbuckatc
09-01-2013, 10:39 AM
Piston reads from what I can make out is .50mm how much over is max for a tri-z

Rigaman
09-06-2013, 09:23 PM
max is 70mm. stock is 68. So you have a few to go. you are at 68.50mm now. next should be 69mm

I weld stuff
09-07-2013, 10:59 PM
I have a Z piston downstairs that looks almost exactly the same. That was the beginning of the longest rebuild I have ever witnessed. I WILL finish it someday.

youngbuckatc
09-14-2013, 09:18 AM
Parts list just keeps growing havnt had alot of spare time to split down the case looken for a shop that will press the crank being new to nc dont have the resources I did in ohio but shes slowly coming