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View Full Version : 350x axle nut help!



trevorm60
08-27-2013, 10:05 AM
i need to replace my carrier bearings in my 86 350x but i cant for the life of me get the lock nuts uts off the axle. ive tried heating it, using a pipe on the wrench, and i already know its aeft hand thread. i heard some people cut them off but i would think youd cut thru into the axle threads.. any help would be appreciated!

jb2wheels
08-27-2013, 10:18 AM
Heat, soak, freeze, tap, long wrench, etc.

I did end up cutting a set off my first 350x. Had to cut the brake hub off, too. That sucked.

I used a 4 1/2 cutoff wheel. Cut parallel to the axle (tangent) as much as possible.

RDH/86200X
08-27-2013, 11:26 AM
Had this problem on one of my 200x's. i cut most of the way through on both sides and once i was close to the threads i got a punch and hammer and broke the nuts off.

dougspcs
08-27-2013, 11:38 AM
Considered a bit of heat and an impact gun? I bought a 'powerfist' gun 4 years ago from local auto store for $50..I've never had a nut not come off.

Long bars are old school and often break stuff..

Mr. Clean
08-27-2013, 02:57 PM
Not sure how you can use an impact gun on the axle fade nuts, It would require two extremely deep sockets. The OP is not talking about the axle nuts even though that is the title to his post.

Spend a couple bucs and get the right tool for the job.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Axle-Nut-Wrench-45mm-56mm-TRX-250X-300EX-300X-400EX-400X-450R-450ER-/171074153569

If all else fails you could use a chisel and hammer. If you do it right you can split the fade nuts and not harm the threads, do it quite often with axle nuts.

jb2wheels
08-27-2013, 03:24 PM
Oooooh - those Tusk pieces are nice! I have a MONSTER size crescent wrench I use. Between that (3ft??) and my significant mass, I usually turn the nuts. But my X was a rusty mess.

85XMAN
02-16-2014, 09:57 PM
Just got mine apart I went to Northern Tool bought a 15, 18 and 24 inch adjustable wrench as a kit for 31$. It came apart easy, I also bought a 2ft monkey wrench, but it was my last resort heard too many stories of ruining the nut! anyhow got it all apart, made the mistake of smacking the carrier with a brass hammer and it brokem so I am changing to the 86' carrier which mean changing the sprocket which I already received. HOWEVER in taking it apart all the seals were nearly gone.... a snap ring on the outside was just hangin out in there not doing anything..... therefore I am having some trouble putting back together so anyone with a video or pix or any advice!

barnett468
02-17-2014, 03:21 AM
Hello

If that nut is rusted on there and is steel, you will likely need to heat the nut until it is bright cherry red then you need to wait a few minutes before trying to turn it because it will be a bit soft when it is that hot.

This will possibly melt the o rings on there but they are replaceable.

The nut is too wide to chisel off imo.

You can pour trans oil mixed 50% with acetone on it 3 times a day for 4 days and you might lucky.

The pipe wrench tends to crush nuts, which causes them to get tighter on the axle the more force you apply.

If your crescent has sloppy jaws it might start to round the nut off.

You can use a cut off wheel as mentioned then use a Dremel with a small bit for the final cut so you are less likely to damage the threads.

The Tusk wrenches shown might help as suggested.


PENETRATING OIL COMPARRISON.

Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

OIL TYPE ........ FORCE REQUIRED TO REMOVE

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF/Acetone mix........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.


Those nuts are available at the site below. See the axle assy in the parts fiche below.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc350x-1985-usa_model968/partslist/F++13.html#results