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View Full Version : YTM 200E No oil to top end



MatthewBuckrell
09-17-2013, 11:27 AM
I recently had my engine apart to repair the first gear. I put it all back together and rode it. 5 mins later the head is hotter than the hobs of h*ll and the cam is squeaking. I don't think any oil is getting to the top end, any ideas what may be going on? it worked fine before I took it apart. where is the oil gallery plug bolt located on this machine?

MatthewBuckrell
10-03-2013, 09:06 PM
really no one?

I found the oil gallery plug, pulled it and no oil. I took off the head and the o rings is in the right spot and good. I'm pulling the side cover to get at the oil pump next

muthey
10-03-2013, 10:44 PM
did you replace your oil filter? I have a spare oil pump if you find yours is bad.

dougspcs
10-04-2013, 09:12 AM
Oil comes up from the bottom end in a passage around one of the head bolts.

If you did check the passage for obstruction or the base gasket was aftermarket and a bad fit you may have a blocked oil passage.

We're you sure to install the cam wet with oil to pre-lube it? It can take a bit for the pump to prime and deliver oil to the top after a rebuild. If it was dry installed that may be all it needs to score the journals!!

dougspcs
10-04-2013, 09:14 AM
did you replace your oil filter? I have a spare oil pump if you find yours is bad.

Sounds like he's in for a head too..got one of those?

MatthewBuckrell
10-04-2013, 09:44 PM
Yes I replaced the oil filter. How would you test the oil pump?

The passage from the pump outlet is clear to the oil filter housing, from there it is clear to the crank shaft and clear to the top of the engine. I did pre lube the cam.

I took the side cover off, all passages are clear. I removed the oil pump and simply put oil in the inlet, spun it by hand and from what I could tell it worked fine. So I put the side cover back on but left the oil filter out. I spun the engine over, no oil. So I poured oil into the port from the oil pump to the oil filter housing. I spun it over again and it slowly pumped that oil out but then it just started pumping air again.

So I wonder if the oil pump isn't being fed oil? There's plenty of oil in the engine so I don't know if this is possible. That or the gasket behind the oil pump?

Another thing is the old filter was full of metal shavings from the teeth that broke of first gear. If they got here, that means they went through the pump. So will shavings screw up that pump?

NeverLift
10-04-2013, 11:48 PM
http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

Metal shavings can screw up the oil pump. Check out this site and download the manual it should have all the oil pump clearance specs. Plus its just good to have you'll probably find your problem reading through it.

MatthewBuckrell
10-05-2013, 09:10 PM
well I checked the pump and I'm not sure I can measure .0015 in to check the clearances. So I visually inspected, clean it, put it back together and primed it. before I put it back on I blew air through the oil gallery on the output side of the pump to verify it was clear. which it was. then I decided I should try the input side and it held all 90 psi. so I didn't feel like taking the engine out and splitting it again so I just drilled a hole into the bottom of the suction gallery below the oil pump. so now I'm pumping oil fine. :lol:

I threw the rest together but I couldn't get it to time properly. turns out I must have a couple worn/missing teeth on the bottom cam chain sprocket. this is connected to the crankshaft soo any idea on fixing this without having to get another crankshaft? :wondering

dougspcs
10-05-2013, 10:17 PM
Wow, you must love that engine!!

The Yamaha 200/225 isn't that rare..I'd say its time to call it!!

You could find another running Yamaha trike on CL for a couple to four hundred and pull its motor and have a parts machine to boot for the money you'll need to get that motor right again!!

Your perseverance is awesome, but you should consider throwing in the towel on this one!

MatthewBuckrell
10-06-2013, 02:53 PM
haha I'm too cheap and I feel like the little amount I put into it is too much to just give up now. so I'm gunna try and see if I can build up the couple teeth enough so it doesn't slip anymore. I can't hurt it now anyways

dougspcs
10-06-2013, 06:33 PM
We'll if you change your mind let me know..

I have a running project 200E in the shed I could probably be convinced to part with!

We are only a couple hours apart!!

MatthewBuckrell
10-08-2013, 09:52 AM
So I pulled off the side cover to see what damage there was to the sprocket. Turns out the chain just came of the sprocket and got jammed in between the sprocket and thrust washer which is why it would slip intermittently. so I get it back together and it won't run. now the exhaust valve is bent :mad: I fixed that now hopefully the darn thing will run.

I'm always looking for something new if I can get it at the right price. Right now I'm trying to come across something bigger like a 250sx or a 350x. But these are all expensive

Kilcal
07-12-2014, 09:59 PM
Please help im having the same
with my 83 ytm200 electric start with shaft drive. I just bought it and rode it for 15-20 min with no issues and just changed the oil as preventitive maintenance with valvoline motorcycle 20w50 and replaced The filter drained it overnight and tilted it to get all the oil out. I let it runfor maybe 2 minutes and no oil comes out the gallery bolt when completely removed yet it seems to be running fine. How long can it take for oil to come out the manual says turn off after 1 minute?

muthey
07-13-2014, 12:13 AM
your oil is more than likely to heavy I run 10-30 yamalube in all my fourstroke trikes with no problems. 20- 50 seems a little heavy to me

jakep53
07-13-2014, 06:47 AM
I run 15w-50 and I have no problems but maybe 20w-50 is a bit too heavy

Kilcal
07-13-2014, 08:04 AM
Thanks guys, the manual says 20w40 is 20w50 really that much thicker? Should i just change the oil or run it for a few minutes?
im just scared to damage the head

El Camexican
07-13-2014, 08:41 AM
Thanks guys, the manual says 20w40 is 20w50 really that much thicker? Should i just change the oil or run it for a few minutes?
im just scared to damage the head

20W-40? Not 10W-40? Doubt that that's your issue, but do make sure you're ruing the right oil. Are you guys revving the engines a little when you have the oil check bolt removed? These engines use a roller bearings on the crank and rods, so pressure is likely very low. If it is anything like other engines using roller bearings there is about 3psi at idle and 10 to 15 at max RPM. I'd remove the intake valve cover and look to see what's flowing while it runs. There should be a little bit of oil splashing out of there at high RPM and it should just be wet with slight splashing at idle.

Also there are 2 filters on that engine. A strainer on the left side and a filter on the right side. Make sure both are clean and make sure you have enough oil in the cases. The oil is checked by DIPPING the stick into the case, NOT screwing it in all the way. If you have been screwing it all the way in you are getting a false reading and will need to add oil. BTW if you overfill the cases some oil will blow into the air box, this is normal and can be drained by removing the plug on the bottom of the air box.