1984 200s questions

[Lockjaw]

hi, new to the site. Been lurking a little but have a few questions. For starters, I bought a rack off ebay for an 83 200, looks like it will bolt up, but I will have to drill a couple holes in the rear fenders. Anyone done this?

Second, I put a mikuni carb on it I got off ebay. So far it seems to run fine with it, until I pulled the silencer part of the muffler out, since it was rattling around loose in there. Now, even with the mixture screw turned in all the way, it won't idle for extended periods of time. I can raise the idle, but then I don't like the high idle, so I am thinking pulling the silencer out decreased back pressure, and it is still lean. So what are the options?

Third, what could I do to it to increase power? It doesn't knock or smoke. I am mainly going to use it for hunting, so being able to pull a drag, or haul a deer out of the woods is what I am after. I see web cams makes a cam for the 185, will that work? Everything is stock right now, I definitely want to put a K&N filter on it.

Any other good idea's or mods that can be done to it?

Thanks

[Ghostv2]

Yes you have to drill holes in the fenders for the racks to bolt up.

You should try repacking your silencer and that should take care of the rattling while keeping your atc quiet and maybe solving your problem.

I have a 85 200s, i have hauled many deer with it. It is powerful enough even stock to do that. My dad even use to do that and hes a big guy. As far as more power and performance, i always left them stock. Im sure someone out there has modified a 200s and can help.

[kb0nly]

I don't think there is a big improvement in trying to increase power by what you can read about for products online, cams, etc. But to each his own. The 200 is quite capable, i wouldnt worry about having enough power to get a deer out, i have hauled everything from concrete blocks to firewood with my 200ES, never an issue.

As for the K&N, i wouldn't... Your better off with the stock style filter with foam sock over it. Its breathes plenty well with that setup. Going to the K&N will only slightly increase airflow, but along with it the dirt flow as well!! LOL

I have seen the dirt ingestion caused by a K&N, its not pretty...

[Lockjaw]

So those foam ones I see on ebay are the way to go? There is no foam in it right now. Where do I get the material to repack the muffler? I will have to take the silencer part to a machine shop to get the screws that hold it in place out. There are locked in there and I can get them out.

[Ghostv2]

So those foam ones I see on ebay are the way to go? There is no foam in it right now. Where do I get the material to repack the muffler? I will have to take the silencer part to a machine shop to get the screws that hold it in place out. There are locked in there and I can get them out.
Get a foam air filter, and if you want to do it right you can get foam air filter oil. I have the stuff that comes in a spray can and is colored red so you can see where you missed. Can get it at any atv store or online. http://www.jazzmotorsports.com/klotz-foam-air-filter-oil-p-326715.html?gclid=CNKVqs3WiLoCFQik4Aod_woAMQ
I have yet to use it on my 200s because i didnt clean the filter yet and its been going for nearly 30 years without it. I use it on my 200x though and works good.

As far as the silencer, i also had the same problem. Screws stripped out so i couldnt take the inside out to clean it. But you can buy the repacking material online, or at most atv stores i imagine. Like i said i dont know if it will solve your problem but it cant hurt. Maybe someone will have some tips to get the screws out. My only thoughts would be to carefully drill them out slowly increasing in bit size. Or to weld a bolt to it and then unscrew them. I heard some stuff about penetrating oil or something that they use to loosen up rusted axels and such. No experience with that though. Maybe someone will chime in.

[kb0nly]

Yep, get a new new Uni foam filter to put on it, that is if you still have the metal screen that it goes on. Around $20 and your set. You can buy them pre-oiled as well. The instructions for them show to wash them out and then soak in 30w motor oil and then squeeze out the excess. Thats all i do for them now, i wash them good with dish soap and hot water, a bit of simple green if they are really dirty, wring it out good let it air dry and then soak in oil and wring out again. Hasn't failed me yet!

[Ghostv2]

Yes, make sure you let them dry out fully before you continue on. I also suggest if you plan on riding do it in the morning or the day before to give it proper drying time and time for you to do all of that. Some people have multiple air filters so they can swap it out and clean them in their free time. But i dont feel like spending money on 2 air filters for each bike and keeping them in zip lock bags in coffee cans or something. Hell before i knew any better i use to clean them in gas and dry them out and stick them right on. Did the job.

As long as you keep your air box lid on and no cracks or anything you wont have to clean it that often at all. While you have a fresh air filter on, i advise you to also take the time to clean out your air box if its dirty too. Otherwise itll suck all that on it again and your back at square one.

[Lockjaw]

I ordered a pre-oiled moose filter, I think its called. All the screen parts are in the air box, so it should be good. I test mounted the rack last night, I just need to find my 1 inch holesaw, and I think I can make that work. I want to get some thin rubber to put on the grab bar so I don't mar it all up with the rack bolted there. Going to use poly lock bolts on the rack to keep them from coming off.

I am going to have to take the silencer to a machine shop, I sprayed the bolts with that freeze penetrating oil, and tried to get them loose with a pair of needle nose vice grips. They are stuck. I have never had a screw not back out when using vice grips and penetrating oil. I suppose I could heat them up with my plumbing torch and see if that does anything to help.

I appreciate all you helping me out. This thing is going to be very helpful for hunting season. I used it to pull a drag on all our fields, I need to rig up something so I can pull my DR brush mower behind it. I want to be able to off set it so I can cut the sides of the road.

I wish it had a reverse though. HAHA

[Ghostv2]

I think my rack came with some sort of rubber on the grab bar mount. Heat might help but if they are that stuck who knows. Id give it a try before you end up paying someone else to do it. And how does the mower hook up to something? You can get a hitch for these.

It would be nice if they had reverse but then again its so small and light you can just pick up the back and turn it around.

[Lockjaw]

I was going to fabricate something for the mower. I have the tow attachment, I was thinking about getting some metal from lowes and maybe if I can find some urethane sway bar mounts that fit the bar on the front of the mower that kind of pushes the stuff over before it cuts. Then it would be easy to loosen the mounts, and slide the mower from the center to one side or the other. So the piece would in essence, look like a capital T. The bottom of the T attaches to the tow hitch on the trike, and the top with the bushings attach to the bar on the front of the mower. Then it would pivot too.

I have a wire welder too. So that would make the whole process pretty easy. I think maybe 3 feet off the back of the trike should be fine. That way I wouldn't have to walk behind the stinking DR to cut stuff.