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View Full Version : 85 klt 110 break's up when you get on throttle



threewheely
10-31-2013, 10:13 PM
I am working on 85 klt 110, I have cleaned carb out, change plug, put on a new flywheel old on was shot. It seems a little better with the new flywheel, I will have to check the timing not sure if it's a issue. Start's right up idles fine, when in neutral you can rev it up no misfires. when riding low throttle fine, get on it and it break's up fall's out flat almost like stalling but does not. definitely does not like hills compression is 150. no leak's in engine. not burning oil. checked most wire connections look good. spark is strong. Could this be a valve problem, cam, chain ,n ot sure how to check these. I have only work on four strokes. so any help would be appreciated. I will check carb float adjustment again to verify it. I aslo have clippped spark plug wire back at the end to ensure good connection.

DohcBikes
11-02-2013, 11:49 AM
The klt is a 4 stroke. As a reminder, Kawasaki 4 strokes use the kl designation, while the 2 strokes use kx. Not to jump to conclusions, but it sounds like you might have some carb tuning issues, and with the the info you have provided it seems like a good place to start looking. Check and verify no air leaks, clip position, correct jet sizes, air/fuel mixture, float setting and check for damaged parts. All carb circuits must be clean, main, idle, air bleeds, all of it spotless. Sometimes one cleaning just isn't enough, and it never hurts to clean it again. Good luck.

threewheely
11-03-2013, 04:08 PM
thank's yea i'm going to check out the carb again the guy who owned it before me bought a after market carb from ebay for 20-25.00. its new, he did have the air screw set way off at like half turn out. I set it at 1 turn 3/8 out. I cleaned this thing out good took it off used wire, cleaner, and air, same result. i'm going to check the float's again, pull all jets out, and recheck. you would not know what the clip position is by chance. hope fully the carb they sent him had the right jet's in it. not sure if the size will be stamped on these jets. not sure what the oem size is any way. thank's for the head's up dohcbikes, appreciate any and all help. thank's steve

DohcBikes
11-04-2013, 12:50 PM
Once again, never hurts to clean twice. The jets in the eBay carbs are usually marked, and often are not original sizes because they cover several models with each universal carb. Here are the stock carb specs.
Keihin PC18
35 pilot
102 main
Fuel screw 1-3/8
Clip fourth notch from top
Float 18-22mm
Slide cutaway 3.0

threewheely
11-04-2013, 04:52 PM
That's awesome that you have that info thank's. now I hope I can get some time to check it out this week and see what's going on with it, thank's again Steve

barnett468
11-06-2013, 05:19 AM
if it burbles/sputters then goes when accerating it is rich, if it simply fails to go like it is out of gas it is lean.

the middle is the stock position on the orig carb but yours might need a different position.
.

DohcBikes
11-06-2013, 11:53 AM
if it burbles/sputters then goes when accerating it is rich, if it simply fails to go like it is out of gas it is lean.

the middle is the stock position on the orig carb but yours might need a different position.
.

Not sure where you are getting that information, but the KLT manual that is on my lap says different. Fourth from the top for KLT, middle groove for KLF. As noted, each machine has its own traits and the position may need adjusted for your application.

threewheely
11-06-2013, 03:30 PM
thank's for the help guy's, still trying to get at it. It when you get on it just fall's flat but will not stall out. It is a little lean so i'm sure the needle's is off alittle.

barnett468
11-07-2013, 03:18 AM
Not sure where you are getting that information, but the KLT manual that is on my lap says different. Fourth from the top for KLT, middle groove for KLF. As noted, each machine has its own traits and the position may need adjusted for your application.well he dores not have a klt carb he has an aftermarket one so the most common place to start is in the middle.

barnett468
11-07-2013, 03:21 AM
thank's for the help guy's, still trying to get at it. It when you get on it just fall's flat but will not stall out. It is a little lean so i'm sure the needle's is off alittle.well my posat tells you how to determine if it is lean or not so you need to make that determination yourself.

if you want to make it richer but have no jets then simply lower the clip on the neede but this will not help much in your case. you need a jet around 2 sizes larger if you want to jet it richer.

DohcBikes
11-07-2013, 10:01 AM
He asked if anyone knew the STOCK clip position. I gave him the factory specs on the carb. You corrected me with false info when you told him "the middle is the stock position on the orig carb." There's no reason to chime in if you have no source for accurate info. Threewheely, be advised that I am a factory certified Kawasaki technician. While it is possible the bike is lean, we don't have enough info yet to determine that. Tune in small steps, one thing at a time, and record your settings so you can tell what is working.

barnett468
11-08-2013, 01:34 AM
Threewheely, be advised that I am a factory certified Kawasaki technician.Threewheely be advised that I am the one that determined the orig stock carb setting since I did 100% of the development testing of that vehicle from prototype to production stage when I ran the R and D dept for Kawasaki.

Bren_downe
11-08-2013, 03:03 AM
Why don't we check the plug and see how the color is?

DohcBikes
11-08-2013, 10:06 AM
Threewheely be advised that I am the one that determined the orig stock carb setting since I did 100% of the development testing of that vehicle from prototype to production stage when I ran the R and D dept for Kawasaki. Interesting. You must've forgotten where you decided to set it, but interesting nonetheless. Ya threewheely, after you have some tuning results let us know, then maybe a couple good techs and trike fanatics can work TOGETHER to try to improve the running condition. Good luck.

barnett468
11-10-2013, 02:05 AM
Interesting. You must've forgotten where you decided to set it,Well that's obviously an assumption isn't it? On occasion KHI Japan would arbitrarily increase the jetting of a vehicle after the best final setting had been determined and deemed acceptable for production by whoever was working on the project in question. These changes were not designed to improve performance but instead made in an attempt to prevent it from blowing up from some over zealous person riding the bike wot in first gear all day. I would not find out until after production started, if ever, if they made such a jetting change in a particular vehicle.

All vehicles were run through the wringer for jetting tests and i actually spent a long time doing wheelies on the 110 during jet testing to try and make it work well there too without adversely affecting the primary areas of importance and the 110 will in fact do wheelies long past when the cows come home without missing a beat, lol.

The 110 was one of my favorite vehicles, we beat the livin "bleep" out of it for over 150 hours and couldn't break it or kill it but the stupid shifter kept coming loose.





f but interesting nonetheless. Ya threewheely, after you have some tuning results let us know, then maybe a couple good techs and trike fanatics can work TOGETHER to try to improve the running condition. Good luck.[/QUOTE]

threewheely
11-14-2013, 08:54 PM
Well finally got around to wrenching on this again. I cleaned the gas tank out, put a new filter in line, Got to the carb again. Cleaned it washed it ran wire through it, then blew it out with air. Moved the clip all the way down to start. Will only start if you hold the throttle open a little, but plug color is good after test. But I will move clip up, one at a time. It does seem to have a tough time idling now. Once I start it set idle, then ride ten minute's idle want's to drop have to raise idle. Might be the needle is to high. wait to see after raising the needle then go from there. However when running it does run better now. It break's up a little, but not much. What is that sensor under the magneto, it has a single wire running to it.?? If it was a car it would be a crank sensor. I have never seen one of these before. Still have no way to check jet size's when I tore down the carb, there are no marking's on any of the jet's, I guess that's cheap after market part's.

barnett468
11-16-2013, 02:08 AM
ok take the jet out

take it to true value hardware store or an industrial hardware supply store.

ask to see the number drill bits and the metric drill bits.


take the blunt end of the bit into the hole.

find the one that fits the tightest.

post the drill number and i can likely tell you what jet size it is.

i also need to know if the jet is round or hexagonal.

one clip on the needle is small, in your case it might simply be better to ride it again as is then immediately raise clip all the way if it gets better than try the middle. if it gets worse than you need to change either the jet or the needle jet.

set the idle when it is warm not just right after you start it.

barnett468
11-16-2013, 02:40 AM
what is your outdoor temp when first starting?

how much choke are you using?

a general rule is


75 degrees or higher should need 1/3 choke.

60 - 75 around 2/3.

below 60 full choke.

requiring the throttle to be open a hair is not a problem.

if you need full choke at 75 or hotter and your air/fuel mix screw is prooerly adjusted your pilot is too small.

if it starts with 2/3 choke or less when it is 60 or lower outside your pilot might be a bit too big.