Sheet metal stove pipe assembly without stitches?

[tri again]

Any tricks to snapping the 2 foot sections together without
lacerations to the bone?

It's almost like they want to be bent in half to interlock.

Not putting pipes together, but just snapping one individual section to itself.
They come split longways.

I know I've done it before but it's a real wrestling match for these old arthritic joints.

[sledcrazyinCT]

Just redid my wood stove in the garage..... the pipes seem to snap in harder then I remember in the past - you have to flatten them a lot to get them to go together. Definitely could cut yourself badly if you slip or do not use gloves. I was at Lowes and they want $39.99 for a pipe that is already snapped together. I have not seen seamless pipe for sale

[roostin atc]

The smaller the pipe the harder it is. Make sure you get 24 or 26 gauge pipe for any smokepipe.30 gauge is for ductwork. You don't need to flatten the pipe. Pinch the ends flat that go into the seam. Then make both seams parallel. Start from one side then work over. It's not that bad. Good luck

[tri again]

Been in the 20's for the last few nights so I guess today is the day.
I had some 'dark blued' pipe that lasted a few years (9-10?) but this new stuff is
heavier dusty flat black painted and yes, harder than I remember to put together.

Maybe bump my head, stub my toe and get aggravated a little and try again.?

aaaah, the farm definition of "for now" is 7 years...as in, "that's good for now".

This stove heats about 200 gallons of water too so now is the perfect time for it to break, I guess.

Thanks you guys. I promise I won't send pix of the stitches.

[tri again]

The smaller the pipe the harder it is. Make sure you get 24 or 26 gauge pipe for any smokepipe.30 gauge is for ductwork. You don't need to flatten the pipe. Pinch the ends flat that go into the seam. Then make both seams parallel. Start from one side then work over. It's not that bad. Good luck

Do you mean bend the tabs a little that go into the slot so they line up without flattening the pipe so much? just to get is started?
I guess it's obvious I'm procrastinating and just need to go cro-magnon on it.

[roostin atc]

Sorry what I meant was pinch the ends they usually flare out at the end of the pipe. This will help when you get to the end of poping it in place. Cromagnon works for sure. Remember to ad 1 1/2 inches for each cut piece that can trip you up. Add that for the crimp going into the next pipe. Good luck

[tri again]

I did bend the edges a little so they were almost lined up before I started fighting with them.
Instead of trying to line up the whole section.
A piece or cardboard and the rear rack of the big red made the perfect workbench.

Helped a lot.
Cranked up the fire and the pipes smoked for almost 2 hrs. Very stinky paint smell but kept a fan on and all the windows open....at about 50 degrees below room temperature.

I just pretended I was camping with a woodstove and threw a potroast on the stove for the heck of it.

Came out great and all is well.

Thanks again

[Dirtcrasher]

Yes, they want to be bent inwards like a "B" with a curved back, then sap them in and bang the sides perpendicular to the seam and make it round again.

Biggest thin is PREP. A screwdriver opens the ends and pliers (once snap locked) will bend in the inside pipe just a hair and bend out the outside end.

The real thin stuff stinks, I usually get it together and then use a pointy screw to keep it together prior to prepping the ends.

Trust me, my first pipe 26 gauge 12" left me bloody and defeated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gETxUHSwS8o

This is 26 gauge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMh0m3LOKFI

30 is way too thin.......

[tri again]

Thanks DC,
I know everything hurts with bad ribs. I've busted up a few and can't even imagine typing.

The vids show the concept real well.
The stuff I had took full body weight to move.

Next time I'll fire them outside on my outside woodstove to get that godbless'ed paint stench
overwith.

Hope you're feeling better and taking TIME to heal.`
No reason to rush if you don't have to.
A couple extra weeks or months now to heal correctly mean nothing relative to the rest of your life.

Thanks again

[roostin atc]

I did bend the edges a little so they were almost lined up before I started fighting with them.
Instead of trying to line up the whole section.
A piece or cardboard and the rear rack of the big red made the perfect workbench.

Helped a lot.
Cranked up the fire and the pipes smoked for almost 2 hrs. Very stinky paint smell but kept a fan on and all the windows open....at about 50 degrees below room temperature.

I just pretended I was camping with a woodstove and threw a potroast on the stove for the heck of it.

Came out great and all is well.

Thanks again
I hope my advice helped. Sorry if I was vague. Took a bit for me to get it down. I'm a hvac tech I wish I was there to show you the easy way to do it. Im no teacher with typing, hands on is my deal. Hope you have a warm and satisfying holiday season.181187
Picture of the boiler was done in ten hours flat.
Happy holidays

[tri again]

Is that boiler for hot water baseboard type heating?
I remember fuel oil burners when I lived in New England and they'd heat the house and hot water.

I've got about 200 gallons of water tanks around my woodstove that hover around 110F
with the smallest of fires.
Wonder if there's a way to circulate it around the house without a pump?
Thermocycle?
I did run a 50 foot hose from the top of the hottest tank to the bottom of the cold intake and it seemed to warm a little just laying on the floor
hot out the top and cold back into the bottom of the tanks with an expansion tank or something equally ridiculous?
I have a 200 gal air tank that will push that water out when the power goes out
but really should have it circulate around the house somehow.
It's constant and essentially free the way it is.

[Thorpe]

As a sheet metal mechanic, best piece of advice is simple... GLOVES