Trick to removing oil pump screws on 84 200s?

[webbch]

I had to split the case to replace the countershaft as the PO had allowed the front sprocket bolts to get loose and it wallowed out the countershaft a bit. Anyway, I figured I'd pull the oil pump apart to clean everything up since I had it apart until these 2 screws started giving me trouble. (#12 here (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/webbch/media/Misc/oil_pump_zps737a1ed0.jpg.html) ). I stopped before causing significant damage. I'm not particularly desperate to take it apart, but it'd be nice just to take a look and make sure the pump is in good shape. Are there any tricks you guys use on it? I'm using an impact driver with a 2 lb sledge, which has typically gotten apart everything else, including the phillips screws holding the exhaust shield onto the exhaust pipe. I figured these screws, which live in a bath of oil wouldn't be quite so challenging to get apart. Thanks.

Chad

[kebby28]

I would leave it alone. Its just gears turning oil. Clean the filter/screen put fresh oil in and keep going. You don't want to deal with snapping a screw just so you can see what it looks like on the other side :)

[LastFoolerInVA]

I broke both Phillips head bits for my impact driver trying to get those dam screws out. I ended up drilling the screws out & buying new ones.

I highly recommend using a left-handed drill bit... the screws ended up backing themselves out halfway through my drilling them out so no reason to re-tap the holes.

I sand-blasted the cases & was concerned about sand in the pump & the oil plumbing holes inside the cases... & I had good reason to be concerned... a lot of crap came out once I got the pump off & blew the oil lines/plumbing out.

[webbch]

Good to know. It's tempting to bead blast the case, primarily to get off the old gasket material, but I'll probably just use a wire wheel instead, which lets me avoid needing to remove the pump. Plus, I haven't removed the bearings from the case yet either (not sure if they're press fit or not), which I'd have to do in order to blast it. Or did you mean that a lot of non-bead-blast-related crap came out when you finally got the pump removed?

I think I may just leave it alone for now.

BTW - is it OK to just oil the new case gaskets during assembly - I don't think the lower end is pressurized, and it'd be nice to have the gaskets come off easy in the future. Of course, I don't want it to leak either...

[LastFoolerInVA]

I wouldn't put oil on the gasket, you want the best seal possible... I have had some oil leak onto a gasket before & it still sealed, but I didn't purposely coat it. Definitely do not bead blast the gasket mating surfaces!! I'm not sure if a wire wheel is even safe. I always stick to a razor blade scraper... its time consuming, but I haven't had a problem yet

[kb0nly]

I use a little grease on the gaskets for the side covers, makes it easier to take them off for maintenance work later. Havent had one leak yet!

[webbch]

I just realized I can mig weld a small hex head bolt to the top of the screw...should give me all the torque I need to get that puppy out. I added those bolts to my latest order "just in case" anyway, so I'll have replacements on hand.

As for the gaskets - nothing on the case gaskets, but a little grease on the side covers. Got it.

[dmfaulks85]

I also had to drill those out on my 200x, pretty stubborn for being soaked in oil for 28 years

[webbch]

I rather suspect that some kind of loctite was used on these screws out of fear that the oil bath would allow them to loosen up. Glad to hear I'm not the only one experiencing issues getting them out.

[czac]

I thought I read someplace to use an impact driver so as not to strip the heads on the screws... dunno though...

[yaegerb]

I've done a few of those. Stick a penny between the large transmission gear and the smaller oil rotor gear. Lay the motor on its side and lightly heat the three screws with a butane torch and then use a impact driver to remove.

[webbch]

Ill give the penny and butane torch a try. As for the impact driver, that's been the tool of choice for all the Phillips head screws. These ones are the only ones to successfully resist it

[czac]

try a bigger impact wrench... like an air one. if you have a compressor that is...