Advise wanted on how to install a wood stove in an unfinished garage

[timex69]

Hey Guys
I just bought my first fixer upper house and as luck would have it, it came with a brand new 24 x 16 garage. The downside is there is no heat or electricity in it yet so after checking with my city hall, local building inspector, fire inspector and insurance company I have been given the OK to install a wood stove in a detatched garage.

I went out and purchased an Englander Stove and had a frame made to raise the fire box up off the floor 18". Now for the part I am unsure of. Since the garage is unfinished there is no "ceiling" for the stove pipe to travel through just the roof and every chimney kit I look at is designed to go through a floor then a roof. Can I just run stove pipe between the rafters that are 16" centers with a heat barrier on either side and connect it to a chimney below the roof or do I have to get a long enough chimney to come down between the rafters and reach up through the roof.

Any help would be appreciated.

[dougspcs]

90' elbow out the wall and up the outside of the building..provided the top of the chimney pipe is above peak of the roof. Exact distance above peak, I'm not completely sure..check with build code.

[hublake]

I would stay away from elbows if possible. I would frame in around the rafters where the pipe is going and install a good insulated pipe from the ceiling up through the roof. Here in MI where I live you can get as close as 2 inches to the insulated pipe. I have had mine in my house for 13 years and have never had a problem. Use a double wall insulated pipe from the ceiling up through the roof.

[timex69]

Thanks for the quick replies. I'd rather not go with the out and up install. I have seen alot of people do it but to do it to code in my application will cost far more then doing a straight up install.

Hublake: I am going to run this idea by a building inspector tomorrow morning. If not allowed I will need to get a flu box and 4 foot insulated chimney and install it at the ceiling and go up and out from there.

[sledcrazyinCT]

Good luck, I hope your inspector is willing to listen to your wish of going straight to the roof using double wall pipe

[timex69]

Straight to the chimney just below the roof, not through it with just double stove pipe just to be clear. But yeah I hope so too. I have no intentions of insulating the ceiling but code is code so ill let ya's know when I know right and wrong.

[just ben]

Straight to the chimney just below the roof, not through it with just double stove pipe just to be clear. But yeah I hope so too. I have no intentions of insulating the ceiling but code is code so ill let ya's know when I know right and wrong.couldn't be any more clear.

[hublake]

Look up Selkirk Metalbestos on Google. That is the double walled insulated pipe I used.

[timex69]

I'm going tomorrow to pick up one of the Selkirk chimney assembly from the hardware store. Seems like a quality setup and exactly what my insurance company is after with all the stove pipe being double wall. I've been to Canadian Tire and looked at their chimney setup and they sell every piece seperately and unless you know exactly what your looking for it's quite a task.

If running a gas line and installing a natural gas overhead furnace wasnt so expensive that's the way i'd go. On another note what are you guys burning for wood. Up here in north eastern Saskatchewan jack-pine, tamarack, poplar and birch seem to be the norm however birch is about 350 for a blocked and split cord delivery is extra and poplar is damn near free but its hardly worth the gas money to go get it.

[hublake]

Here in MI most people use oak. Now there is a lot of ash being used as the trees are dying after being attacked by the Ash Borer Beatle. Wood here is around $55-$60 a face cord. Same here with poplar.

[redsox]

i'm about half way through the process of putting in a stove in my barn right now. i started about four days ago and it had been a process.. durorock, tile, etc, etc,..... the pipe was expensive. i'm going straight up through the roof. its been a learning experience.

[timex69]

redsox
How far along are you with your install? Im about to cut the hole in the roof tomorrow. I have the stove in place elevated to give me the required 18+ inches of firebox elevation. The double wall stove pipe is is in place and screwed together at the joints. The flu box has been framed in and nailed to the rafters ready for the chimney to be installed tomorrow. Im just waiting for the cold weather to break to continue work. -35 doesnt allow for very much progress. I'll post some pics tomorrow. I agree with you its definately a learning experience, between calls to the building inspector, fire inspector and chatting with my local co op building supply store about all the materials I would need plus a few evenings of reading up on the internet. Almost $2000 dollars later I am nearly finished. I cant wait after working in the garage with a kerosene blaster heater for the last 9 years I cant wait for clean, vented heat.

[tri again]

Look up Selkirk Metalbestos on Google. That is the double walled insulated pipe I used.

Isn't that stuff triple wall? 2 inch to wood?
Expensive but I've also seen it for sale used.
New thought is to keep the exhaust gasses Hot so they don't crystalize
on the way out.
I just had a freighttrain chimney fire so I changed most of my pipe to metalbestos triple.
Amazing how much heat, smoke can lose on it's way up and deposit crystals.

Glad you're conferring with the inspectors.
Preserves your homeowners insurance too.

[MNhondaguy]

If you get the one made for ceiling then roof, it won't be an issue later if you decide to put a ceiling in.

[Dirtcrasher]

B vents not cheap; Doing it properly to save everything you enjoy from a tragic loss is far worth it.

So, you don't have a chimney correct??

You can run regular (I suggest 26 gauge) 5' lengths of stove pipe and then B-vent thru any now/future ceilings and the roof. And as said before, above the peak of your roof or whatever your code requires. In the US, sometimes city codes override state requirements.

B-vent the whole way is not necessary and will add to the cost and you lose the heat transfer from the pipe itself.

Yes, the less 90's the better. 2 - 45's to offset it into a center of a truss or roof rafter, then B vent thru and use a (pitch sealing thingamabopper, I'm forgetting this chit :lol:) thru the roof with a drip ring and a hat should be cost effective and safe.

I have a VERY WELL insulated 16x20 so I have a 230V electric industrial heater with a fan (thanks Victoria Secrets back storage hall) and it barely runs once I'm at 65-70 degrees.

The thought of quitting for the night and having a fire with a wood stove settling down has always terrified me.....