Hey Barnett & Dohc heres one more for ya!

[ATC90JAY]

Im looking at a new chain/sprocket for the 84 200x not sure what kind to look at....Not sure of the correct tensile strength? Looked at some volmar chains on ebay but seen some bad reviews...Any suggestions??

[RDH/86200X]

Volmar is junk. For sprockets get JT they make the factory sprockets for most of the new bikes. For a chain you can't go wrong with d.i.d.

[dmfaulks85]

Sunstar sprockets and D.I.D. chains!

[barnett468]

Hello Jay;


Thanks very much for the vote of confidence, however, there are many people here that know just as much or more than I do and they won't steer you wrong.


Same as post 2 and 3.

In addition, other good chains are Diamond and Tsubaki. Size is 520.

The oem [orig] stock sprockets are steel 12 and 40 tooth.

Front oem p/n 23803-444-810

Sunstar p/n 30312 520-12 steel


Rear oem p/n 41201-965-000 or 41201-965-505

Sunstar p/n 2-301740 520-40 steel

http://sunstar-mc.com/SS/Technical.aspx


Here's a generic no name, probably Chinese

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Parts-Unlimited-Steel-Rear-Sprocket-40T-41201-965-000-Honda-ATC200X-83-85-/170869751976


Here,s JT, they have different sizes and 2 different listings for the front. Call or email for info on the different listings, both will fit.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/804

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/5159

[DohcBikes]

The sprocket brand you are referring to is called Volar, not "volmer" lol and they are junk, in my opinion.

And yes there are MANY helpful people here, many specialist in certain areas!

I like Sun star and d.I.d. as well, I use these whenever I can.
OEM sprockets are also excellent.

The only info on your setup that I don't see here already is that your chain should have 88 links. Remember when ordering a chain, 520/88.

[El Camexican]

Nothing goes to pot faster than a cheap chain. D.I.D. = Do It Dude

[JasonB]

Sunstar and did O ring chains here

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I decided to try a chain and sprocket set by Primary Drive (Rocky Mountain ATV exclusive brand) for my 350r.

The set I got consists of an X-ring chain rated for over 8,000 tensile strength (comparable or equal to the usual name brands) along with both sprockets in steel. Don't waste your money on an aluminum rear sprocket. They don't hold up.

Long story short, I paid just a little more for the complete set than what just a chain would cost from the other brands. At that price I figured I wouldn't be out much if the set only lasted a year, well worth a try... I have 1 season use on the set on my 350r and so far all components are holding up very well.

I would recommend looking into that brand and giving them a try. Obviously, one season is not a true test of longevity but so far, so good.

[rg97]

Should have included me in that title too jay. :lol:
Do it right the first time. DID and sunstar.

[DohcBikes]

I decided to try a chain and sprocket set by Primary Drive (Rocky Mountain ATV exclusive brand) for my 350r.

The set I got consists of an X-ring chain rated for over 8,000 tensile strength (comparable or equal to the usual name brands) along with both sprockets in steel. Don't waste your money on an aluminum rear sprocket. They don't hold up.

Long story short, I paid just a little more for the complete set than what just a chain would cost from the other brands. At that price I figured I wouldn't be out much of the set only lasted a year, well worth a try... I have 1 season use on the set on my 350r and so far all components are holding up very well.

I would recommend looking into that brand and giving them a try. Obviously, one season is not a true test of longevity but so far, so good.Great tips ride-red, I'll have to try a set from there as well. X-ring chains are an excellent design.

I've tried aluminum on my street bikes with varied results, but its mostly for specialized applications, and no matter what they won't last like steel. I imagine its even worse on a trike.

[rg97]

Who came up with the bright idea for soft metal sprockets anyways? It saves like .5 lbs at best

[DohcBikes]

Well once you have maxed out the performance in every other area, you'll try anything. "Necessity" is the mother of invention.

That weight savings is also rotating mass, it DOES show up on a dyno.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I agree, for the every day rider aluminum sprockets are a big waste of money, but they probably do have a place on a sponsored bike running on the racetrack.

Don't write off RMATV's exclusive brand parts. I have had nothing but good luck with them to this point.

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if aluminum lasts better on a street bike as they are run in much cleaner conditions generally. But in the dust, dirt, mud and grit dirt bikes and wheelers are most at home in, not a chance..... You are just spending twice the money for 1/10 of the service life.

[barnett468]

There’s a few different was to explain the effects/benefits of reducing a performance vehicles weight by even a little. Weight affects, handling, suspension, braking, acceleration, and in the case of a bike or atv, it affects rider fatigue/endurance.


Imagine you are in a bicycle race with a series of different tests and your bike is all steel and weighs 100 lbs and the other guys is an $8000.00 Cannondale carbon fiber bike that weighs 11 lbs. The first test is a long steep hill. Well ya lost that one because you petered out before you even got 1/3rd of the way didn’t ya? The next is a 1/4 mile drag race. Well it looks like it got dark before you even crossed the finish line so ya lost that one too. The last one is a double jump. Well you’ll be fine once they take the cast off and thank goodness they had an ambulance on standby.


Take a can of soda, this represents your rear wheel assy. Hold your arm straight out, this represents your swing arm. Without cheating, move it up and down around 1 1/2" as fast as you can for 10 seconds and count how many times you go up and down. Next, take a quart or liter bottle [which only weighs around 1 1/3 lbs more] and do the same thing. You will find that you did it maybe 30% fewer times with the heavier bottle. This shows that your suspension reacts slower to irregularities in the terrain the more weight there is on it. F1 cars use ultra lite brake rotors made from carbon fiber and silica carbide to improve suspension performance and provide quicker braking and acceleration because there is less rotational weight [inertia] to stop or accelerate. This also reduces the overall weight of the vehicle and wheel assy. The lighter the vehicle and wheel assy are, the lighter the suspension components like springs can be.


Taking 10 lbs off of a 230 lb MX bike feels like a day and night difference to most pro and intermediate level riders with the exception of people like Rex Staten, Goat Breker and Marty Tripes whom likely wouldn’t have a clue and can win if he bike was 30 lbs more than anyone else’s anyway. On the works MX bikes, we used to run titanium axles and other parts until they were outlawed. We would drill holes in the aluminum brake caliper guards and/or make them smaller to reduce weight even though it was only a few grams. They now have high strength lightweight chains.


On the old CR 125’s, Honda used to make a 1 piece clutch basket that weighed around 1 lb and machine the shift drums so much they weighed 1/3 less. In the 80s, Honda had 3 road race bikes that cost over a million dollars to build. Suzuki made a titanium exhaust pipe for some bikes, and around 1972 they had a big bore MX works bike that weighed around 180 lbs. That’s nuts. I had a set of fork tubes on my 84’ T3 that weighed 6 1/2 lbs less than stock. It felt noticeable lighter until some dweeb took me out in practice at the LA Coliseum race which turned them into a pretzel. Luckily I had the stockers with me.


The companies that sanction the races like FIM and AMA, put minimum weight limits on bikes in the 70’s so people that did not have a works bike could have a better chance at being competitive against the factory teams.


In the 70’s, one of the top 3 finishers at the Carlsbad GP was disqualified because his bike was at the legal limit before the race, but it was mysteriously below the legal limit after, hmmm.


If you’re not an animal like Rex or a few others, that 3 extra lbs you get off your bike can make a difference by the end of a 40 minute moto, and since second place doesn't sell bikes, companies [except Kawi] were willing to spend whatever it took to win races.


Click on the motorcycle brand in the link below and see insane lightweight MX works parts including magnesium cases, cylinders and carbs.

http://www.mxworksbike.com/parts%20a.htm

[Billy Golightly]

I have Regina chains on my stretched bikes, and a few of the short ones (don't remember which ones anymore...) and they seem like they last forever. Sprockets, never really cared who made them :lol:

[86125m]

D.I.D o-ring chanes always they are more expensive but will last alot longer.

[ATC90JAY]

Hey Guys you too rg97 :wondering So here are the chains I found that I thought sound good..What do you guys think??? I found some good sunstar sprockets as well....

1.DID 520 VX2 X-Ring Chain (Gray) 88 Links with Clip Masterlink

2.DID ER Series Racing Chain 520V 88 Link 125-650cc
They are both arounf 50 to 60 bucks....

[barnett468]

hello

unfortunately i don't have a clue. below is the did spec page and i can't find the x chain. i know both are good but can't ell which chain is better for which type of riding etc.

did spec page.

http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

[DohcBikes]

The ER series chains are a non-o-ring chain designed for racing. Sometimes this means it is designed to help the bike perform at peak levels for only one or two races. I have never used one so I cannot comment on the actual performance of this chain. The general rule is, if it says "exclusively for racing applications" that's exactly what it means, and could also be taken as a recommendation to avoid using the product for any other application.

The D.I.D. VX2 is a great choice for a regular use chain, I have used several of these with excellent results. I highly recommend this chain to someone that wants high quality at a decent price.The clip master link is really convenient.

[rg97]

like DOHC said, a non o-ring chain like the ER will provide less rolling resistance than o or x-ringed ones. A racer may do a few races on a chain then toss it, so they dont need the extra protection of the o or x-ring. Thats means that they dont last as long, especially when you do some water/mud/very loose dirt riding.

[El Camexican]

I do not like clip style master-links. A guy I was riding with once at Mexican highway speeds had one come off and the link started backing out. We stopped for gas and by dumb luck I noticed it. It was out almost a ¼”. Can you imagine the carnage if that thing had made it out to the point that it caught the cases?

Semi-related I’ve seen sprocket bolts back out and saw through swing-arms. My point is that if you must use a clip style master-link you should safety wire it. Takes 2 minutes and hardly anyone does it, but unless you plan to buy a new clip each time you remove the link it is imperative as the clips are meant to be used only once and they crack easily.

As far as installing clip style master-links on high quality O-ring chains I seem to always have to use my riveting tool to squeeze the link onto the pins and compress the O-rings. If there is a better way that someone knows I'd like to know it, as I grew out of using Vise-Grips and pliers a long time ago.

At the end of it all I figure that if I’ve invested in the riveting tool I’d rather remove the riveted link and replace it with a new one each time rather than reuse the clip.

Hey, DOHC. If you want to see a “Real” chain check out the EK630 rated for 500hp. http://www.pingelonline.com/ek_630ms_chain.htm They also make a 30,000 tensile chain for those who find adjusting slack to be taking up too much of their time. If I ever find my MS going slack I’ll be looking for a bend or crack in my frame!

[rg97]

I might need some of that 630 chain on my 200x. shens

[DohcBikes]

Riveting tools are relatively inexpensive, I would recommend one for even a hobbyist.

Clip style master link chains are perfectly safe when installed and used correctly. The clip must be installed in the correct orientation, and I would not recommend re-using the clips once they have been removed.

I recently bought a Yamaha Seca II and rode it home only to realize that the p.o. had not installed the clip on the master link, because the reused link was bent and he could not get the clip on there. He didn't tell me until I asked him.

Riveted chains can also be installed incorrectly.

A hulking chain that does not want to stretch can wear out your sprockets faster.