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View Full Version : 85 atc250r engine appearance options? Re-paint? Powder coat?



jchale
03-12-2014, 11:20 PM
Got my bike today and will start disassembly soon. The engine has had a poor paint job and it shows. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Not sure how to remove old paint. What have you guys used for re-paint? Powder coat an option?

nachop
03-12-2014, 11:28 PM
Powder coating is great. It is very durable and chemically resistant. It is expensive though. You have to strip it down to the bare metal. Actually, a powder coating place can do it for you, but they do charge for the prep. They do make some very good paints today. If your budget it tight, spray paint it. Just make sure to prep properly and make certain it is very clean.

jchale
03-12-2014, 11:45 PM
Does the motor need to be disassembled for them to strip the paint? I will call a few local places tomorrow. I bought a stainless steel bolt kit for the motor and the frame. I will have the frame powder coated as well.

barnett468
03-12-2014, 11:53 PM
Got my bike today and will start disassembly soon. The engine has had a poor paint job and it shows. Not sure how to remove old paint. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?Hello jchale;


If you do not want to media blast it, I use the paint stripper in the link below. Typically at auto parts stores and Home Depot etc. Buy around 3 or 4 cheap paint brushes, rubber gloves, plastic goggles and a 1 qt plastic paint bucket to pour it into.

Use in well ventilated area, it will fry your lungs and eat your skin, no joke. Washes off and neutralizes with water.

Put a medium thick coat on, leave it for around 10 minutes or until paint bubbles heavily.

Use a tooth brush to help remove paint. It will be messy so do it in the neighbors yard when their not home.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=KLE+QAR343&gclid=CIK7p4aG0LwCFWxo7AodIQsAEg


If It does not work then go to an automotive paint supply store and buy military spec paint remover #83936 from PPG.

This stuff will dissolve your bones, lol.

jchale
03-13-2014, 12:44 AM
Now that you mention it. I used a similar product to strip the paint off my Lund 18' Alaska. Had an autobody shop do the paint. Would this stuff eat the gaskets or seals?

I'll tell my buddy the heat went out in my garage and need to work on my bike..... I'll show up with my engine and chemistry kit lol.

If i stripped the paint might not look bad just leaving it bare. Shouldn't rust right? All aluminum.

Thanks for the advice.


Hello jchale;


If you do not want to media blast it, I use the paint stripper in the link below. Typically at auto parts stores and Home Depot etc. Buy around 3 or 4 cheap paint brushes, rubber gloves, plastic goggles and a 1 qt plastic paint bucket to pour it into.

Use in well ventilated area, it will fry your lungs and eat your skin, no joke. Washes off and neutralizes with water.

Put a medium thick coat on, leave it for around 10 minutes or until paint bubbles heavily.

Use a tooth brush to help remove paint. It will be messy so do it in the neighbors yard when their not home.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=KLE+QAR343&gclid=CIK7p4aG0LwCFWxo7AodIQsAEg


If It does not work then go to an automotive paint supply store and buy military spec paint remover #83936 from PPG.

This stuff will dissolve your bones, lol.

250rRoostmaster
03-13-2014, 10:29 AM
Hello jchale;


If you do not want to media blast it, I use the paint stripper in the link below. Typically at auto parts stores and Home Depot etc. Buy around 3 or 4 cheap paint brushes, rubber gloves, plastic goggles and a 1 qt plastic paint bucket to pour it into.

Use in well ventilated area, it will fry your lungs and eat your skin, no joke. Washes off and neutralizes with water.

Put a medium thick coat on, leave it for around 10 minutes or until paint bubbles heavily.

Use a tooth brush to help remove paint. It will be messy so do it in the neighbors yard when their not home.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=KLE+QAR343&gclid=CIK7p4aG0LwCFWxo7AodIQsAEg


If It does not work then go to an automotive paint supply store and buy military spec paint remover #83936 from PPG.

This stuff will dissolve your bones, lol.

^^Seems like that's be no beuno for the gaskets???^^



I personally love powder coating but it does require you to split the cases. I think its the best and most durable option though and will last a very very long time. Also gives you a reason to check out the bottom end of your motor. You can polish the cases as well but i hate polishing stuff lol.

If you plan on painting, prep is crucial. Make sure the cases are sanded and are SPOTLESS and paint will hold up pretty darn good. You can paint with the motor still assembled it's just a PITA but plently of folks do it all the time with good results. But again prep is key with paint. PREP PREP PREP your work. Did i mention Prep is key?

Hope this helps

DohcBikes
03-13-2014, 10:44 AM
I notice you said you got stainless hardware. Loctite is your new best friend.

If you wanna avoid disassembly, my opinion is that you have it media blasted and then paint it.

If you spend the time to disassemble, my opinion is that you may as well have it powder coated while you have the chance. Not all powdercoaters are created equal...check their work before committing.

Mosh
03-13-2014, 11:40 AM
I notice you said you got stainless hardware. Loctite is your new best friend.


Actually Silicone RTV is better suited on the threads of the SS bolts and prevents gauling of the threads in the case, will aid in thread locking, and will not be as likely to have issues removing them when needed.

DohcBikes
03-13-2014, 12:22 PM
Good tip, rtv works great as well.

I think one of the reasons that people have trouble removing stainless after it has been loctited is that they did not prep the metal before using loctite, and sometimes dont use the correct formula.
There are specific products made to prep stainless and aluminum threads before using loctite, although some of the new formulations are showing much better results.

Passive substrates such as zinc dichromate/phosphate plated steel, magnesium, cadmium, stainless steel, aluminum and thermoset plastics could once only be bonded by treating the materials with solvent-based primers before applying anaerobic adhesives. New surface insensitive threadlocking formulations have been developed to be forgiving of oily and contaminated surfaces, curing in spite of residues that would inhibit cure of traditional threadlocking adhesives. In addition, these threadlockers also are designed to cure more easily on inactive surfaces, reducing applications where primers are needed.

Mr. Clean
03-13-2014, 12:39 PM
This 200x engine was first pressure washed after being sprayed a couple times with a de-greaser from FLAPS. Took a gray scotchbrite pad and sanded the entire engine. Wiped with a de-greaser used prior to painting automobiles, painted with single stage automotive urethane.

Once the engine paint fully cured I replaced all the hardware one by one with zinc plated bolts. Had I had more time I would have done the engine fins and a couple more of the components in silver or raw aluminum.

I prefer OEM hardware. I get mine all zinc plated.

jchale
03-13-2014, 04:24 PM
That 200x turned out nice. So frame, swing arm and pegs are simple to powder coat. Engine will need dis-assembly, parts stripped of paint and powder coated. I will need to look into "media blasting" to see if anyone does it up here. The two places up here want me to dis-assemble and strip the motor prior to bringing it in.

I need to make up my mind if I want it powder coated or just painted. If my engine wasn't just redone by previous owner it wouldn't be a decision. I would disassemble and redo motor and have it powder coated. Maybe I'll powder coat all other parts and wait to powder coat engine until I feel the need to redo.

Also thanks for the advice on the ss fasteners. I have read to use anti-seize on ss fasteners with aluminum. Thoughts?

DohcBikes
03-13-2014, 05:11 PM
There are many recommendations from the manufacturers of thread lock and antiseize that pertain to many different applications. My thought would be to research the manufacturers recommendations, and possibly even contact them with an inquiry. You might be surprised at how helpful the product makers can be in making application specific recommendations. They can also advise you of any new and great products that possibly none of us have tried yet!

jchale
03-13-2014, 05:16 PM
Good advice. Maybe I'll even read the directions that came with the ss bolt kits lol.


There are many recommendations from the manufacturers of thread lock and antiseize that pertain to many different applications. My thought would be to research the manufacturers recommendations, and possibly even contact them with an inquiry. You might be surprised at how helpful the product makers can be in making application specific recommendations. They can also advise you of any new and great products that possibly none of us have tried yet!