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Holliday
04-11-2014, 10:50 AM
Hi All,
I have a 125m with the usual shifting problem, so I need to remove the exhaust system to get to what I need to....does anyone have any tricks to remove the header nuts without breaking the studs?

Thanks

shortline10
04-11-2014, 11:24 AM
Use a Small dermal cutting disk and cut the nut off .

wonderboy
04-11-2014, 12:28 PM
I have a suggestion, but it is only helpful in limited situations. Here is goes:

If (and that is a big if) the nut isn't already seized to the stud, and wants to turn, it can sometimes start to bind as you unscrew it as the nut starts to move onto the exposed portion of the stud. The exposed portion of the stud usually has all kinds of rust and scale. As the nut begins to move and starts to run on top of this crap, it can bind and then snap the stud off. So, to prevent this, do one of two things:

1. Use a wire brush and seriously clean off the exposed portion of the exhaust stud prior to backing the nut off.
2. Simply cut off the exposed portion of the exhaust stud, flush with the end of the nut.

All the usual methods apply here too: heat, penetrating oil, etc. However, there are situations out there where none of this will help and studs will break. It is a fact of life. I'd say I've had more break on me that I've had successfully removed.

One tip on all your machines: At some point if you have the exhaust nuts off or replace the studs, coat the studs with some anti-seize compound. It will help prevent the issue in the future.

2ringers
04-11-2014, 12:42 PM
Soak for several days. Then heat. If you don't have an acetylene torch, you can try plumbers torch with mapp gas. Sometimes works, but acetylene / oxygen torch set is ideal.

Holliday
04-11-2014, 02:16 PM
Thanks for all the ideas. I have tried soaking and heating in the past with less than good result. Most of the time, the nut is so frozen and the stud so weak that even mild force will just snap it. I will give the dremel idea a try, seems to me like it will work out, but even if it does not(though I can't see why not), it still leaves me with the other options.

badandy
04-11-2014, 04:24 PM
Soak for several days. Then heat. If you don't have an acetylene torch, you can try plumbers torch with mapp gas. Sometimes works, but acetylene / oxygen torch set is ideal.

THIS IS KEY, but, Yes.... the studs may be too weak already, and be very careful with the dremel method... ant "score" to the stud will cause a weak point and simply create further problems. In the end, you need to look ahead as to how you are gonna get the studs out for replacement...
clean, kroil, heat... and let the kroil soak, for days...?

joefixit0
04-12-2014, 03:18 AM
Heat is the key, you need to heat the nut until it is red hot, then remove it while it is still red, works everytime.

jakep53
04-12-2014, 04:19 AM
^^agree^^ I have never had one snap using this method

DohcBikes
04-14-2014, 12:15 PM
Is it even rusty or seized? Have you tried a wrench yet? Just making sure. No need to heat if its not seized.

8686
04-17-2014, 07:46 AM
Heat is a great tool.

85XMAN
04-17-2014, 08:30 AM
I sugest nut splitter from auto parts store and re thread afterwards