How much to tighten my bolts?

[gloriavbhound]

Hey everyone, just a quick question.

I don't own a torque wrench nor do I have access to one. I have an '85 250sx and a '84 110. I have accidentally stripped threads on other machines in the past and I know that for the most part with these atc's its all steel bolts into aluminum threads. I would prefer not to have to deal with stripped threads on my 3 wheelers. So my questions is using only a socket wrench, how far past finger tight do you normally tighten the bolts used for routine maintenance? I'm talking the oil pan bolt, bolts on the oil filter cover, rear diff drain bolt and rear diff fill bolt. I'm hesitant to put much torque on them but don't want them falling out either.

Thanks for any help!

[sick85crownvic]

The smaller the fastener the less torque they can handle...another common thing to look for is stretched bolts, they'll break real quick. For things like the oil filter cover bolts and other small bolts like that, I like to use a 1/4" drive ratchet one-handed and go until the head of the bolt seats, then snug(usually less than a quarter turn). If the head of the bolt is seated and you go more than a quarter turn and still feels like it's "loose", you may want to check the threads in the aluminum casing and also make sure the bolt isn't stretched. The oil drain bolts, I typically go a little more...like seated plus a half to 3/4 turn depending on gasket/sealing washer being used.

In extreme cases of bolt-stretch, it's very easily identifiable...there will be a section of threads that look much more coarse than the rest and slightly smaller in diameter....those bolts will break long before they hit their torque numbers. A lot of stripped bolt holes and broken bolts(during assembly that is) can be prevented with a quick visual inspection of the fasteners and the threaded holes they're going into as well as using the smallest drive ratchet for the job...or a short wrench used one-handed with a thumb on the box end(on the bolt head) and your index and middle fingers of the same hand applying the torque to the wrench as close to the fastener as possible....that method is great for those who don't seem to know their own strength as it severely limits how much available torque can be applied.

Hope this helps and good luck!
-Don

[gloriavbhound]

That's exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks a lot Don.

[sick85crownvic]

Glad I could help...in my younger days, I had a LOT of broken bolts due to attempted he-man torque...lol...but I also made a lot of money selling engine mount bolts to my buddies for their bikes/trikes/quads(apparently they were even worse than me!).

-Don

[tri again]

Hey everyone, just a quick question.

I don't own a torque wrench nor do I have access to one. I have an '85 250sx and a '84 110. I have accidentally stripped threads on other machines in the past and I know that for the most part with these atc's its all steel bolts into aluminum threads. I would prefer not to have to deal with stripped threads on my 3 wheelers. So my questions is using only a socket wrench, how far past finger tight do you normally tighten the bolts used for routine maintenance? I'm talking the oil pan bolt, bolts on the oil filter cover, rear diff drain bolt and rear diff fill bolt. I'm hesitant to put much torque on them but don't want them falling out either.

Thanks for any help!
see if you can click on:
service manual
it has all kinds of info and torque specs.
Good info from sick85

I've rebuilt engines in less time than it's taken to fix ONE bolt!
Be careful.
Torque wrenches are cheap these days.
We used to check them against each other too.
Nothing wrong with new bolts and antiseize either.

I've got one tough bolt into aluminum for today.
Broke one and actually drilled into the aluminum to get penetrant into the bolt threads.
How a grade 3 bolt breaks off in aluminum is a mystery.
Corroded threads impacted with rust etc and they snap at about the same torque as the other ones broke loose.
Not sure if it's better to have stainless bolts with antiseize?
especially exhaust bolts.
Then again, one more broken bolt and my car engine must be "removed from the car"

[sick85crownvic]

Stainless bolts are great....until they break...which is common with cheap stainless...then you'd better have some REALLY sharp drill bits and a lot of patience handy....like Tri Again said, antiseeze is your best friend when threading anything into aluminum.

-Don