So is this telling me I hav bad pulse generator. No spark.?

[jacobfour]

According to the manual it says check ohms between green blue and yellow wires and ohms should be between 20~60 ohms. Well I got 30ish on two other wires but the green to yellow I get like .5- 1ohm. I have a used stator I bought and I checked it and I get same readings.
I hav no spark. I hav triple checked wiring and continuitity and I hav new ignition coil, cdi, and a used stator. From what I can see I don't have the recommended ohms for the pulse generator and I get no ohms reading on the secondary coil on the new ignition coil. Anyone agree that this is my problem to no spark and where I can get pulse generator for stator? Sorry I'm about as good at electrical as ray Charles. And I hav by passed the on off switch

1984 honda 250r hodge podge

[Flyingw]

No, you misread the wire colors. Blue wire with a yellow stripe and the green. The yellow wire by itself is the wire coming from the lighting coil. The green wire is ground and the blue/yellow is the pulse wire going to the CDI.

Ok, a quick lesson on how the ignition system works. The exciter coil, pulse coil, and lighting coil make up your stator. The flywheel is nothing more than a spinning magnet. As the flywheel spins, it induces an AC voltage in the exciter coil. That voltage is sent to the CDI where it is stored in a capacitor. On the outside of the flywheel is a small magnet and when it passes by the pulse coil, it generates a tiny voltage that is sent to the CDI telling it to release the stored voltage. The released voltage is sent to the primary side of the ignition coil where it is stepped up in the secondary side of the ignition coil and sent down the high tension lead to the spark plug. The positioning of the small magnet on the outside of the flywheel determines the timing in which the engine is fired. That is fixed. The voltage generated by the exciter coil is also fixed at about 13 volts AC. The voltage generated by the lighting coil varies from about 12.5 volts AC at idle to about 50 volts AC at full throttle. A regulator is installed in the lighting circuit to cap the output voltage at 13.6 volts AC.

The black wire with the red stripe is the wire coming from your exciter coil. The health of that coil is measured in resistance between the black/red wire and engine case ground. The exciter coil is grounded to the engine. An induction coil must have ground and power output wires to work. So first measure the black/red wire and engine case ground for resistance. According to the book, that range is 245 ohms

You already measured the resistance of the pulse coil and it measured at 30 ohms so its good.

The book does not give a resistance range for the lighting coil. Yellow wire and engine case ground. All it says is continuity. That doesn't matter right now because the lighting circuit is separate from the ignition circuit.

The ignition coil is measured between the metal frame of the coil as ground and the input tab of the primary side. That range is .2-.8 ohms of resistance. The secondary side is measured between the metal frame of the coil for ground and the end of the high tension lead with the plug boot removed. That range is 8-15k ohms or 8000-15000 ohms depending on the range you have your meter set at. k is the symbol of thousands ohms. See page 15-3 for the illustration.

The CDI is fully transistorized and cannot be accurately be checked with a regular meter. Special gizmos are required to accurately check the CDI so all you can do is check the other components.

[jacobfour]

Thank u for the input that was extreamly helpful. I hav checked red/black wire and got 240ish ohms so pulse generator should be fine. I got 2 cdi's one new so I would think they r ok or at least one of em. And from what I already checked the exciter coil should be fine. I had unhooked the on off switch as to not worry about that for now and still no spark. I hav checked continuity. So to me that leaves ignition coil, cdi connector, or idk something in the stator.
The ignition coil is new but I didnt hav any ohms on the secondary side of the coil. I'm gonna hav to do little more investigation maybe I can get some damn near spark.

[Flyingw]

No ohms on the secondary...hmmm. You should read something there. Does the meter display any change or does it read as an open? That might be the problem. There should be a green wire coming out of the main harness that grounds to the frame. Make sure that wire has a good clean connection to the frame. Also make sure the ignition coil has a good clean ground at the mounting tabs.

[350for350]

Sometimes coils from someplace like ebay can be brand new and still be bad. I've had a couple of these. If you don't have any resistance at all on the secondary side, I'd say it's probably bad. Before you worry about that, try checking the resistance again without the spark plug cap on the end of the wire. Sometimes they can be bad too.