Project FarmTOY $200 1985 Yamaha YTM200ERN refurb (Watch and follow along)

[myridge]

I recently picked up a new to me 1985 YTM200ERN Tri-Moto, It was pretty nasty, crusty and greasy from living outdoors for awhile but I'm going to put it back into usable service on my farm and get it going again with a second chance at life.

I'm a Yamaha guy so I have been wanting one of these for some time now and been looking for either a YTM200ER with utility racks and reverse or a YTM225DR with Rack.

I came upon this in a craigslist Ad for $300 and drove about an hour and half into southern Illinois to look at it in the middle of an ice and snow storm, the front tire was flat and dry cracked, I couldn't start it due to a busted recoil spring and it had a flat front tire. I almost past on it and drove home but then I thought well it has everything I wanted and was relatively complete even If I just bought it for the racks and reverse parts it was worth an offer so I offered the guy $150 and we settled at $200.

Now the fun begins, After I got it home I got to messing with it and took off pull start mech and repaired the spring and assembled it correctly and turned the fuel on and gave it a pull. She fired right to life with a nice idle, no smoke and just purred. I did have a hiccup because I didn't know the key had to be in the on position so I convinced myself for a couple days the CDI or coil or something horrible went out. And I gave my arm a pretty good sprain from pulling it a few thousand times. But after a bunch or searches to this forum I realized OHhhhhh!!! the key has to be set to (on) or NO SPARK!!! Wow that was an enlightening moment now it runs nice.

So it does have some issues and is missing some odds and ends that I'm working on replacing. But its going to be a work in progress.

First she got a good bath, next the electric start doesn't work so that will need attention, it was missing the battery tray, tool box, hitch, etc. Got all that on those on ebay and they are on the way.

I started last night pulling it all apart to clean, refurbish and lube it up and maybe blast and repaint a few cosmetic parts in the process. This is NOT a restoration as I don't have pockets that deep and I am going to use this thing around my property. But I do want it clean, and functional.

So I'll keep updating this post with my progress and pictures so you guys can follow along. Thanks for all the advice already I am learning allot here.

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[Jmoozy27]

Nice whip, good buy for $200. Good reliable machine, not a Honda but solid. Keep clean oil in the engine and differential. If you have the time and a vise change the oil in the forks. (It probably hasn't been done before)

[myridge]

Well I made a little progress last night, pulled all the plastics off for cleaning and buff, pulled fork tubes, air box, rear electrical panel, exhaust, wheels & brakes. Spent an hour or so screwing with that darn front tire trying to break the bead loose and gave up. Went back to disassembly and cleaning.

The plan is to clean and inspect, if crusty/rusty polish or repaint these parts.

Rear brake CAM was locked up solid, it's soaking in PB blaster now to see if it can be saved.
Back hubs were interesting as the PO used various bolts to hold the wheels on instead of studs. And the holes are wallowed out now so replacement hubs are on the growing list of parts I need.

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[myridge]

Question if you look at the first picture I just posted there is a missing bolt and broken piece missing from the rear diff. How should I go about repairing this? I don't want to really replace the entire case would something like JBweld formed and drilled work with a new bolt and washer? Or just replace the bolt and washer as is? Why did that break???

[myridge]

Also someone mentions I should change the fork oil if I have a vise as it's likely never been done. How is this procedure done? What's the process?

[86125m]

I dont see where the piece is broken could you post a better pic.

[myridge]

Here I illustrated where it is205868

[Pickup_man]

Same, I can't see the broken piece either. As for the forks, I'm not too sure how it's done beyond pulling the internals out, cleaning, replacing seals, and changing fluid. I've got a set that I need to get done myself. A quick google search or a good manual would provide a decent explanation I would imagine.

Edit: can see the broken piece now. What does that hold on, bolt to? I wouldn't use a buildup of jb-weld as a mounting point, thats just me, but if you need to reattach 2 pieces JB should be fine as long as the piece isn't supporting a lot of weight/load/stress.

[muthey]

pm me your parts list, give me a few days to see what I have and don't have. Also I'll get back to you on what that broken missing piece is.
Brandon

[Jmoozy27]

At the top of the fork tubes you have a plug that is held in by a lock ring you have to put the fork in a vice with a shop rag and push the plug in against the spring resistance at the same time removing the lock ring. It's quite a task and seems only possible with a helper.

[muthey]

I am going to make a special clamp for this job as I have a set of fork seals to do this spring. I will show pictures of what I use when I am finished with it.

[hogmuffin]

that broken piece is one of the main mounting points where the rear axle bolts to the frame. you may want to take it to a machine shop that can weld aluminum and weld the top of that broken hole back on. or maybe look for a used cover, you shouldn't have to replace the whole axle.

as far as the front forks go, http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/ this website has a Clymer manual, and a Yamaha factory manual for the 200. I've used it a lot on my rebuild. it has pretty good instructions on changing oil in the forks. the hardest part is getting them to come apart.

[bad to the bone]

i have one too same year and model. Bought it for 4 $325

by the way how to get paint off of the plastics if u don't want to buy chemical stuff?

also how can you get a stripped out rusty screw from the pull start?

[myridge]

I haven't tried to get paint off yet but will soon. As far as the rusty bolt its a must to have one of those impact Screw drivers like this one from harbor freight but if it's stripped your only options are grind a groove in it and try a flat screwdriver or drill it out. http://t.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

[BigRedRelic]

I built one just like that. the only thing wrong with it. it wasn't a big red. no low gear. when you get a good size bear claw on that and in a mud hole or climbing hills it just wont turn those tires. I sold it and bought a big red 200. I miss my yammy a lot because all the work I did but I love my big red.
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that's how bent the frame was. anyways I got it strait and rebuilt pretty much every nut and bolt. I put custom pro tapper bars on and built a custom rear rack with storage box. it was nice.
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