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McQuade
12-23-2014, 02:09 PM
I have an 84 200es that I purchased with a 85 parts bike. The parts bike was the one that ran, though it was just a frame with engine and wheels. The other one was complete other then the carb was gone. I put the carb from said running parts bike on the es, and it idles great. But that's it. Any more and it simply pops and stammers like a rev lim. Convinced by the terrible noise, I swapped the running engine, (only am hour job) and the EXACT same thing. I knew the engine was ok, but noticed a head gasket leak on the donar running engine (Repaired) same thing. Idle but cutout at any more. Redid the carb, nothing. Replaced CDI, nothing. I've replaced every electrical part including the harness EXCEPT the voltage regulator. Still, it'll get to almost mid throttle and won't even roll ahead in first gear on its own power. My thoughts is it's something frame related as all these components ran on the other bike, but what? I've hit a wall and simplistic diagnosis seems not to avail here. Thanks!

B-1B
12-23-2014, 03:06 PM
I'd verify that Carb is appropriate for your Trike. If it is, maybe try putting your needles back to factory spec's, including your throttle body. That might be the best way to start. You can find Manuals on people's posts...

tri again
12-23-2014, 03:25 PM
so it ran in the open frame?
but didn't like the new frame?
I'd suggest a known working wire harness but you did that.
Been thru a few 1984 es models and they do harbor electrical gremlins..even swapped KNOWN working parts like you did.
Gave all my 200es stuff to a returning marine for his apsaragus farm so I have no good info for you
except you're NOT losing your mind.
One ran Great and one would Not. and that's where I got the KNOWN working parts from.
Very frustrating.
Almost thinking some engine to frame ground that other components need to connect through but you swapped engines so engine mounts are probably clean? or at least loosened and retightened.

oh wait,
got my correct glasses.
so you got an 85 carb to fit the 200 engine?
85 s? sx? es?
Pretty sure it may need a 185 or 200 carb altho I got a 250 carb to run my 2 cylinder john deere tractor

McQuade
12-23-2014, 04:51 PM
I'll elaborate on the whole carb thing. I'm probably mistaken on what model these bikes are. Chain driven 200cc trikes. The one I want to use, had a normal transmission. The parts trike that ran, had a high-low gear setup. Engines are identical in all ways, it's the "transfer case" that makes em different. They're not big reds, I had one of those, and they're much larger. The differences I've ran into are only the high low setup and the coil had different plug ins on it. I'm really inclined to say it isn't carb related, I own many old 50-60's cars so I know the sound of a fuel related problem... Or so I thought. Because there are two prominent diagnostic problems here. One is the refusal to get to even mid rpm, the other is a air backfire through the carb/air box. Screams lean to me but it acts as though a spark issue. Took it to a guy and he flat out refused to try to fix it. So it's up to me/ us haha.

ironchop
12-23-2014, 05:13 PM
http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

free manuals for all

thank oscarmeyer on this site for hosting these free manuals for all these years

ironchop
12-23-2014, 05:19 PM
also did you remove the pilot jet, soak it awhile in solvent, run something threw it and replace?

sometimes I clean a carb twice before I get out all the hidden crud especially if it`s sat awhile and has varnish

YTZ drew
12-23-2014, 08:05 PM
I know that my 250X (quad) has a rev limiter when in reverse, that makes it run as you describe. Is it possible you have a wire from some kind of a reverse switch on the engine grounded all the time?

McQuade
12-24-2014, 04:43 PM
It's chain driven. Reverse is picking it up and turning around. And thanks iron, I'm going to strip it down to the bones again and completely rebuild it. I'm tired of carb rebuilding so I'll just buy a brand new one.

tri again
12-25-2014, 06:59 AM
I have seen mindnumbing issue with spark.
Unscrew the spark plug cap and cut off the last tiny bit off the
wire and rescrew the cap.
You may see green copper corrosion that gives intermittent spark.
ez, fast and free and eliminates one more thing.

danbur55
12-25-2014, 07:15 AM
Was this happening with airbox connected and lid on?? If so try without lid see if it helps