Update on my new (to me) 85R

[Onetrackmind]

So I have had this bike for a little less than a month and have spent some time fixing/replacing most of the low hanging fruit. Initial cost was $750 plus driving 2hrs each way to pick it up...not bad in my book.

To date, here is what has been done:
Standard washing and degreasing, fresh oil (had to change it 4 times), cleaned petcock and replace inline fuel filter, new Boyeson Power Reeds, new Sunstar chain n sprocket set, new chain rollers and slider, new tires, flushed the radiator and new coolant, flushed the brakes and new DOT4. Also found a swingarm skid plate, tail light assembly and even the correct toolbox with brackets on eBay for it. While the tank was off, I wet sanded and polished it back to life and also used a heat gun to get the sag out of the rear fenders. This all has added about $450 to the total. Still not bad...right?

The kicker assembly still need to be replaced (I have a new one on hand), but it doesn't seem to be nearly as bad now as it was when I got it. Could that be from fresh oil?

I will eventually get around to doing a top end on it too...I could only get 150 psi out of it with a (very) cold engine and a borrowed guage from O'Reiley's (who knows if it was even reading correctly).

Aside from the slipping kicker, it starts right up (2 or 3 good kicks) and runs really well. It does feel like I have a little clutch slippage on the bottom end though. I originally used Pennzoil 10w-40 and later discovered that newer oils aren't good for wet clutches (oops), so it now has Lucas Oil that IS safe for the clutch. Could the slippage be due to residual auto oil in the pack?

Also, I have not torn the carb down to see what the jetting is. The PO installed a K&N filter on it and I put the power reeds in. Boyeson says the new reeds will run a bit rich, so I turned the airscrew out 1/2 turn. I did find a little fuel in the airbox boot (just where it attaches to the carb) before the airscrew adjustment...is that normal or do I need some new jetting? BTW, can anyone tell me what kind of jetting I would need for this setup at 500' and going into spring/summer in North Texas?

Oh, one more thing. The front sprocket cover and case saver are still missing due to the fact that there is no way to use the mouting holes any longer. The top hole has been cracked and stripped and the lower hole has half a bolt stuck in it and the rest broken off flush w the case...dang! Can this be fixed?

As usual, thanks for the input and insight! I am loving being back on 3 wheels again!

[Onetrackmind]

Also, the PO did a bubba weld job on the grab bar which isn't stock. If anyone has one for an 85, I would be interested in it.

[f76]

Nice looking machine. For the case saver mounting holes, top hole can have someone weld the crack then install a heli coil, bottom hole you could attempt an easy out or try a counter clockwise drill bit and start drilling the broken bolt. If you ruin the threads, get another heli coil.

[Onetrackmind]

f76
Thanks for the ideas. Will give them a shot.
OTM

[Onetrackmind]

Hey guys, I have another question. My rear fender set has Maier number plate stickers on it and I have assumed that the fender set is actually a reproduction Maier set. I can't find any Maier markings anywhere on it (or Honda for that matter), but I haven't pulled the seat off either. I did find the marking 11611 or 11911 depending on which way you look at it on the underside. How can I tell if they are Maier or OEM plastics? Thank!

[250rmanfmf]

On the rear up side of plastics behind the seat the OEM plastics will have "No Passenger" with some writing on it in raised lettering and if you are behind the trike to the left of the rear of the seat it will say important information with some more writing on it. If it has none of those markings its most likely Maier plastics on the rear. Whats up with your grab bar? or is the rear sub frame tweeked? Very nice job on the trike. looks like you have a good decent bike for a good price.

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks 250r, mine does not have any raised warnings on it...must be a Maier. Oh well. :(

The grab bar (which isn't) stock has been full-on Bubba'ed. There are two welds on it and they didn't even bother to do the job right! It totally makes the whole bike look like it is bent...which as far as I can tell is not. I'm looking for the correct grab bar to help with this optical illusion. :wondering

Took it out for a good wringing-out yesterday and discovered some not-so-good news. The rear brake is dragging and locked up when hot (guess I will be rebuilding the caliper and master cylinder) AND I found a pool of oil under it this morning when loading up. I haven't had time to investigate yet and I'm hoping that it was just a loose drain bolt... If you see a tread titled "How Screwed Am I?", you will know it wasn't just a drain bolt. :cry:

[j013N]

Man I'm so jealous, here in Quebec liquid Rs go for like $3000-4000.

[Onetrackmind]

j013N
Most of the liquid Rs that I've seen around TX lately have also been in the same range ($3-4k) and air coolers are $2-3k. I just got really lucky (hopefully) I think. This guy was asking $1500 when I called about. He was pretty hard-up for fast cash and called me back w/in minutes to drop the price in half.

Barring any uncovered major internal issues, I think this was just a case of right place, right time is all.

[JasonB]

nice looking machine, and the price is pretty sweet too :D

[Red Rider]

Oh, one more thing. The front sprocket cover and case saver are still missing due to the fact that there is no way to use the mouting holes any longer. The top hole has been cracked and stripped and the lower hole has half a bolt stuck in it and the rest broken off flush w the case...dang! Can this be fixed?The upper bolt on your front sprocket cover/case saver is about 4" long and holds the center cases together. If you tried a short bolt in that location, that could be why it seemed to be stripped. As for your rear plastics, not all OEM fenders had the embossed warning labels, so I wouldn't use that trait as the sole determining factor, but based on your pics, they appear to be Maier to me.

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Jason B!!!

Red Rider
Thanks for the insight. I will try a longer bolt in the top hole. I still need to get the crack on it welded back together too. The bottom hole still needs attention too. Not only is there a bolt broken off inside it, but the whole thing is broken off flush w the case. How far out did that originally stick out? Will probably need some spacers down there to make it work.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the plastics are Maier...just hoping. This is the first R that I have spent any real amount of time around in about 25 years, so I don't have a lot of recent knowledge to go on:p thanks again. I also see on the parts diagram for the rear fenders that these did have a wire fender stay originally and mine is missing that. Do Maier plastics need that like the OEM?

Thanks.

[Red Rider]

The bottom hole still needs attention too. Not only is there a bolt broken off inside it, but the whole thing is broken off flush w the case. How far out did that originally stick out? Will probably need some spacers down there to make it work.I think I understand now. On the bottom bolt, I thought the bolt was just broken off flush with the case, but the whole pedestal (that the bolt screws into) is sheared off of the case, and there is still part of a bolt in what remains of the hole. Is that correct?

With mine assembled, it's hard to get in there to measure how tall that pedestal is, but eyeing it, it's about 5/8" tall.

I've never had any Maier fenders, but I don't believe they had the provisions to use the stock wire brace. Maybe someone with Maier experience will chime in.

[Red Rider]

Check out these cases on ebay. The 6th pic from the left has a good shot of that pedestal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRX250R-OEM-BIG-BORE-ENGINE-CASES-LEFT-RIGHT-CASE-MOTOR-TRX-250R-ATC-ATC250R-/121554076241?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4d300251&vxp=mtr

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks again for the info...those pics helped me realize just how much metal is really missing. Yep, it looks like most of the pedestal has indeed been sheared off on that lower bolt hole. In fact, now I'm not so sure that there is actually a bolt sheared off in that hole after all...I don't think there is any hole left! :mad: what I am seeing is the bottom of the drill marks.

I attached some picks that I took the day after I bought it. Do you agree w my new line of thinking? I may just have to scrap the idea and run w/out the case saver and sprocket cover after all.

Thanks again man!

[Red Rider]

Yep, I agree. I don't think there is any bolt left in there. That pedestal protrudes out beyond the "shift-shaft case area" by about 7/16-1/2". A new pedestal could be welded on to your case, if you were so inclined. Your top hole is cracked just like mine. I've thought about getting it welded up, but have never bothered to, as it doesn't cause any issues with my sprocket cover/case saver.

You're welcome. It's still a good find for the price though, even with the few issues you've found. It just needs a little TLC.

[Jason125m]

Hey Onetrackmind, thats a great R for the money. My case was broken the same way on my R. I bought one of these case savers. 209714
It uses the shift shaft, and i tapped the hole in the upper mount for a slightly bigger bolt. OEM uses a very long bolt that is also used to hold the center case together. Someone broke mine.

Also, in your second picture you just posted, I can see your master link. It looks like the clip is partially broken. Hopefully that is not the new chain you just put on?

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Jason125m
I think that just might solve my problem! Do you remember who makes it? No, that chain (along w the sprockets) was the first thing I replaced. It was so sloppy that w the adjustment all the way out...there was still a good 3-4" of slack! I put a set of Sunstar sprockets and a 520 XTG chain on.

[Onetrackmind]

And I didn't realize that that top bolt actually helps keep the case together. I guess I should probably get something in there whether I find a case saver that works or not.

Thanks again guys!

[Jason125m]

I bought it from http://www.tlr-online.com/trx250r/oem_replacement

Very good products for a great price.

I somehow forgot to include the link in with my last post.

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks for the link...that IS a great price! And it solves my problem without any headache...bonus. Were you able to find a sprocket cover using shifter shaft or are you just running without the cover?

[Red Rider]

209714This is an okay design if both of your case saver mounts are intact, but if you're missing the bottom mount, and you wad up the chain, it's going to put a ton of stress on your shift shaft as it pivots around the top mount.

I like these designs better if you're missing the bottom mount. It still wraps around the shift shaft, but it is braced against the stator cover, which is a much stronger design in my opinion.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-1989-Honda-Fourtrax-TRX-ATC-250R-Billet-Case-Saver-w-SHIFT-SHAFT-PROTECTION-/371252190404?hash=item56705adcc4&vxp=mtr

or,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-250R-TRX250R-BDT-BILLET-CASE-SAVER-FRONT-SPROCKET-CHAIN-GUARD-GASKETS-/391032997321?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0b6205c9&vxp=mtr

[Onetrackmind]

Thanks Red...I definitely like that design better. The price isn't near as good, but it looks like it would perform better when it has to.

Any ideas on a sprocket cover in my situation?

[Red Rider]

If you want to run a sprocket cover, I'd thread that bottom hole and bolt the sprocket cover to the case saver, then attach the case saver normally via the top bolt.

[Onetrackmind]

Yep, that would work for sure. Thanks for the idea!

[scrambler250R]

Dude, sweet score! If I could find a liquid R for $750 here in NC, anywhere close to that condition, I'd take him the 750 & my left ball!:lol: That's a $2-2500 bike around here lately. & nobodys answered your compression question yet, but 150psi is a pretty healthy motor, I wouldn't worry about it.