Yamaha tri-moto 200 issues

[MB9800]

I just picked up a 85 Yamaha tri-moto 200 chain that's got some issues that I figured could be answered here. First off it tops out at 35mph. Is that normal, it seems like it should go at least 45mph. It also lurches when I'm topping it out. Another this is when is the decompression cable supposed to be getting pulled because when I pull the recoil I don't think it's moving. There will probably be more follow up questions.

[YamaBoss]

35 is probably to slow, mine goes 48 give or take. Also the decompression cables can be tricky. I just removed mine because it would not function properly.

[ugethergoinyet]

D.l. the manual.. take it off. Free it up make sure it works like its supposed to.. then follow the adjustment instructions... yours might be letting some air out

[MB9800]

Any ideas on the slow speed

[YamaBoss]

Did it go through all five gears?

[muthey]

I would look into the cluthes as you said it was lurching, the primary, or centrifugal engages when giving it throttle and the secondary or the disk are only in use when it is moving the lurching could be from those, does it take a decent amout of throttle to get it to move?

[MB9800]

Ya it takes quite a lot of throttle to get it to move. When in second if you get the rpms high enough you can feel it catch. So what should I be looking for when taking these clutches out.

[MB9800]

Another thing, what screw do I turn on the carb to make it idle a little higher

[MB9800]

And ya it went through all five gears

[Yamawheeler]

Screw on pull start side has spring on it.

[muthey]

Here is a link to a downloadable manual, I would describe the process to you but there is a decent amount of detail to it that would take up half a page. http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/ What you are looking for are grooves in the primary or "centrifugal" clutch housing, and checking how deep the grooves on the centrifugal clutch are. If the clutch is worn smooth and the housing is heavily grooved you will need to replace both. the manual will give you the limits on how much the cluth pad grooves can be worn, and if the housing is grooved where you can catch a fingernail on them I would change it as well. You can use a ytm200, yfm 200 or 225, or a timber wolf 250 centrifugal clutch.

[MB9800]

Alright, so I've followed the procedure to getting the clutchcase off and now I can't get it to come off. Any Ideas?

[muthey]

did you make sure to remove the oil filter if not you will need to do so. after that you will want to take a rubber mallet and tap at the edges of the case from the inside to the outer edge. Reason being is the gasket creates a sealed bond between the case and the clutch cover.

[MB9800]

Ya I removed the oil filter and thanks for the tip.

[MB9800]

Alright guys I replaced the clutches and am still only going 35, any ideas

[muthey]

you replaced the centrifugal clutch as well with a new one?, and checked the housing for grooves?

[MB9800]

I replaced both of them with a engine that had little use and I inspected the centrifugal clutch and it had little to no wear on the pads.

[muthey]

time to start counting the teeth on the front and rear sprockets, also what size tires are on the rear?

[MB9800]

Front sprocket 11, and back sprocket 42. The tires are 22x12-8.

[Jmoozy27]

Well I'm unsure of the stock gearing on the chain driven model. 11 up front seems low. A 12 or 13 would be ideal for higher speeds. I would keep the rear at 42 though. My ytm has 25" tires on it and hits 45 easy. But it is the shaft driven model.

[muthey]

your rear sprocket is right and the tire size is supposed to 22-11-8, but the 22-12-8 is fine just wider. You front sprocket was replaced at some point it is supposed to be a 12, so general rule of thumb one tooth on the front is worth 3 on the rear, so that is more than likely your problem right there.

[MB9800]

I did a little research and found that the 11t sprocket size is right.

[MB9800]

Another symptom I am having is poor performance when in higher gears (4-5). First problem is it doesn't want to rev up to nearly what it does in the first gears. Then when it stays to climb in rpms in seems to cut out almost like it is hitting a rev limiter (which I know these don't have). I'm lost

[MB9800]

It does the lurching at top speed when the rpms start climbing

[muthey]

when it start lurching like that keep the throttle burried and shut of the engine then pull the spark plug and take a look at it. I am starting to believe you are having a carb issue. does the carb start to drip fuel when the machine is shut off and the fuel is left on. The main thing right now is doing a plug chop and seeing how your jetting is also are you sure that your primary stator coil isn't shorting out?

[MB9800]

Alright I'll do the spark plug thing later when I get home today, and how do I check to see if my stator coil is shorting out

[MB9800]

Did the spark plug thing and it was wet and black.

[Jmoozy27]

Try cleaning the air filter.

[MB9800]

There isn't an air filter in it at the moment

[MB9800]

Any other ideas, and which way do you turn the pilot screw to make it run leaner

[MB9800]

Alright, I've ruled out the carb being the issue so it's timing or ignition problems.

[Jmoozy27]

There isn't an air filter in it at the moment

It's hard to tune a motor without any type of air filter. How did you rule out that it is the carb? If you have bee running the trike without a filter then the carb will likely need cleaning. If I were you I would 1. Clean the carb 2. Buy a decent air filter 3. Buy 2 sprockets 12t and 13t and figure out which one you like the most.

[MB9800]

Carb has already been cleaned and tuned to spec according to the manual and 11t is the stock sprocket size on these.

[Jmoozy27]

Whether it is stock or not if you want more top end 11x42 is gonna get you 35 mph tops. It's just low gearing. You could go down a few teeth on the rear but it's much easier to change a front sprocket, and much cheaper. Good luck...

[muthey]

if you are needing an airbox I have a stock one with the hoses no filter but at least the box

[muthey]

with the spark plug being wet and black, you are either running rich or burning oil, also I know what your sputtering and lurching in the higher gears is. This is what I want you to do take your carb off, open it up and remove the float and float needle. Then I want you to remove the metal plate that has a screw holding it down and use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the float seat. Now you will see a rubber o-ring that you will need to replace. This only applies if you are running a stock carb on it. and for the mix screw in is richening, out is leaning. Also the circlip should be on the third notch on your main needle and I would check that needle for any bends, they do wear over time.

[MB9800]

Hey thanks muthey I'll do that right now.

[MB9800]

Do you know where I could get an oring that would fit in there. I went to the hardware store and the one I picked up fit around it snugly but wouldn't fit into the seat.

[BigRedGrizzly]

Try Harbor Freight O-ring kit.
http://m.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/05/7bf196fa8e02f14126f76d836b7a6acb.jpg

[MB9800]

I'm actually scared of typing this thing out now because it naked to much noise when I do that. Any idea of what that is.