200x Hard to start Hot/Looking for a user selling wiring harness/lights at trikefest

[JacobMonster]

Hey, Jake here. My 1984 200X is hard to start after its warmed up. Its running a bored over piston with around 12:1 compression and running 93 octane. It will start if I hold the throttle an eighth open while hot. I've turned the idle up along with cleaning the carb and putting a new oring on the carb that connects to the intake. It also has a slight hesitation when you hit the throttle, like it dies then comes back, but its all within a split second. I think it isnt getting enough fuel. AIr box is clear, fuel filter clean, carbs clean, gas is good. I was told to lean it out with the needle clip thats on the throttle cable inside the carb. Should I drop it or raise it? I'm trying to extend my knowledge of carbs. Yes, I know I could simply look up how to set the carb, but I wanted to see if you guys might have any other ideas on what it might be.


Also, while I was at trikefest, I met a guy who makes his own wiring harnesses and nice LED lights for the trikes. Him and a buddy were driving in a Toyota t100 and were camping by the lake near me. IF anyone might lnow who the guy is, let me know his forum name please, I wanted to get the wiring harness along with some lights for my 200x. Thanks again guys.

[yaegerb]

93 octane is not correct with 12:1 compression. You need to be running at least 108 race fuel with a 12:1 comp piston in a 200x. What jets are in your carb?

[ironchop]

"ps2fixer" was the guy camping next to us, Jake.

I confirmed this and told him you were looking for him

[ps2fixer]

I found the post :). Yea that was me camping next door.

I haven't checked out the 200x setup for the LED lights yet, but they appear similar in size. They are a direct fit for the 200cc big reds 200es with the spring clips that hold the lights in. My dad is making brackets for the 250es big reds. The LED lights are dim-able and still really bright on dims! On bight they are 45W close to the OEM draw.

If I remember your machine right, it sounded on the lean side to me, but I'm not the greatest with carb adjustments and such. If you want to lean the main needle out, you would drop it one or two slots which will make the needle more shut vs the plunger. I'd take yaegerb's advice and try the 108 race fuel.

What is wrong with your harness? I had my tools at TF to replace connector ends and such and only had to use the tools for my cousin's machine that had the LED fog lights on it front and rear (we lit up the first half or so of the herk n jerk). From memory the 200x harness has the circle CDI plug, so I'd have to use a donator plug and put new pins in it to reproduce the harness. I don't have a template made, but I do have an 83 200x I could base the harness on.

Thanks,

ps2fixer

[JacobMonster]

93 octane is not correct with 12:1 compression. You need to be running at least 108 race fuel with a 12:1 comp piston in a 200x. What jets are in your carb?

It has a 108 main jet with a 40 pilot jet. Clip was set at 2nd mark from the bottom I raised it to the third from the bottom

[JacobMonster]

And I just realized I have to drop the clipto rich-en it up. -_- ok, now its at the very bottom clip

[yaegerb]

40 pilot should be ok. have you checked the pilot again to see if any junk is in there?

[JacobMonster]

40 pilot should be ok. have you checked the pilot again to see if any junk is in there?

They are clear has clear can be. Im hoping that my riching the mixture, it might help with the starting. Im hoping its just a simple issue. I'll put a uni or k&n air filter on it eventually to.

[yaegerb]

Lowering the clip will do nothing for starting the bike (cold or hot). When you start the bike you are on the pilot circuit, not the needle circuit. Needle is used 1/4-3/4 throttle. Pilot is used 0-1/4 throttle, thus something is either wrong with the pilot circuit, you have an air leak that gets more pronounced (wider with heat) or you have an electrical issue.

[knappyfeet]

It has a 108 main jet with a 40 pilot jet. Clip was set at 2nd mark from the bottom I raised it to the third from the bottom

A couple of questions.

How much did you bore it out to.

Stock carb?

How long after you ride it did the hard starting happen......right after.....30 minutes after?

How does it start cold? Also does the hesitation occur all the time?

How does it run in general?

[ironchop]

Jake did you ever confirm what ratio piston he put in it when he rebuilt it? I know you weren't sure at TF. My topend is fairly new and has a 10.25:1 like I said and your bike was definitely harder to kick than mine which is why I think you have a similar or higher ratio piston compared to mine.


.

Really you need a compression reading so you know if you need race gas or not before you try and tune the carb I would think.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[JacobMonster]

A couple of questions.

How much did you bore it out to.

Stock carb?

How long after you ride it did the hard starting happen......right after.....30 minutes after?

How does it start cold? Also does the hesitation occur all the time?

How does it run in general?

1. Next size up from stock I believe. Not positive
2. Stock carb, yes
3.It usually happens probably around 15, 20 minutes of riding. If you leave it off for about 5 minutes or so, its hard to start unless you put the throttle at about 1/8, then kick it a few times, it will fire up
3. Starts fine cold with no throttle. hesitation starts when I hit 1/8 throttle, to no throttle. IF I'm riding it, the hesitation really doesnt happen. its only off of idle
4. Runs good in general. has power, doesnt bog at all.

[JacobMonster]

Jake did you ever confirm what ratio piston he put in it when he rebuilt it? I know you weren't sure at TF. My topend is fairly new and has a 10.25:1 like I said and your bike was definitely harder to kick than mine which is why I think you have a similar or higher ratio piston compared to mine.


.

Really you need a compression reading so you know if you need race gas or not before you try and tune the carb I would think.

Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

no, I havent. I need to get a compression tester, or just take it down to my buddy who is a car mechanic, and see if he cant test it. To, I was just thinking. There is a hole on my carb which doesnt have a hose. its on the left side near the top. I have my drain hose, fuel hose, another hose on the left side I believe, and then that hole at the top of the carb which looks like it needs a hose :/

[yaegerb]

post pics of the carb if you can. Also can you tell us the serial number on the side of the carb?

[JacobMonster]

Lowering the clip will do nothing for starting the bike (cold or hot). When you start the bike you are on the pilot circuit, not the needle circuit. Needle is used 1/4-3/4 throttle. Pilot is used 0-1/4 throttle, thus something is either wrong with the pilot circuit, you have an air leak that gets more pronounced (wider with heat) or you have an electrical issue.

I think I may just get a new carb, just for giggles. Theres a few things on this bike that will be replaced, just to be updated and new. I am talking to a guy about rewiring the thing eventually. I'm thinking the carb will do it. I'm really just hoping I don't have to run race gas. Its so freaking expensive. If for some reason it ends up being the fact this bike has way to much compression for the fuel im running in it, then either i just gotta suck it up or have this thing rebuilt with a piston with less compression.

[JacobMonster]

post pics of the carb if you can. Also can you tell us the serial number on the side of the carb?

217810217811

I don't have the serial number, but you can see the hole i was talking about.

[yaegerb]

serial number is in the second picture where the float bowl meets the carb body, but I can't make it out. Can you post it here please.

Also, that hole does nothing. Part of the casting and doesn't go all the way through into the body.

[knappyfeet]

1. Next size up from stock I believe. Not positive
2. Stock carb, yes
3.It usually happens probably around 15, 20 minutes of riding. If you leave it off for about 5 minutes or so, its hard to start unless you put the throttle at about 1/8, then kick it a few times, it will fire up
3. Starts fine cold with no throttle. hesitation starts when I hit 1/8 throttle, to no throttle. IF I'm riding it, the hesitation really doesnt happen. its only off of idle
4. Runs good in general. has power, doesnt bog at all.

A couple of thoughts come to mind. This might make it run rich as heck but go larger on the pilot........at least 2 sizes up from where you are now and see if that single modification has any affect on the starting but more importantly the bogging. That will determine if any headwork might be in order.

12 to 1 compression.....if not complimented by porting, polishing, opening intake, etc..is simply not worth the extra cost in fuel. Plus it might be causing your motor to overheat and make starting difficult.......along,with the compression itself.

If on the other hand your machine has been running fine and dandy for years and this has just popped up out of the blue I would do a compression test, valve adjustment, etc.

[JacobMonster]

serial number is in the second picture where the float bowl meets the carb body, but I can't make it out. Can you post it here please.
Also, that hole does nothing. Part of the casting and doesn't go all the way through into the body.

62bavg is the serial number

[yaegerb]

Good, that's a stock carb. You may need to end up rebuilding it if it still won't run right after a thorough cleaning. I recommend shindy.

[JacobMonster]

Good, that's a stock carb. You may need to end up rebuilding it if it still won't run right after a thorough cleaning. I recommend shindy.

Aight. I appreciate the help

[ironchop]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/165140-An-uninteresting-200x-thread

Jake you might want to check out what he found while having a similar problem with his 200X

[JacobMonster]

Problem solved for anyone still looking. Timing was off.
Timing was lined up EXACTLY how the service manual said but was still hard to start.
Move the timing 1 tooth backwards.
When you put your spark generator thingy, the one that takes 2 Phillips head screws to bolt in, and your turn it to adjust the spark timing, turn that to the right as far as it will go. Problem solved. I only did this after I knew the engine was getting spark, fuel, and tried the "correct timing" this may not be the problem with your machine, but it worked for mine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk

[ps2fixer]

The pulse generator has a couple of springs on it, and the pickup should be able to be turned slightly w\o turning the cam. It is how it advances the timing when running, and guessing by how you said you adjusted it, maybe it is rusted up, or your springs are broken/missing. Having that part makes the engine much responsive and it seems to rev slightly higher. I've ran engines with and without it working, night and day difference.