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View Full Version : yamaha tri moto 200, no power!!



plumbercustoms
11-14-2015, 10:31 PM
Hi all, im posting for some advice, i am troubleshooting a ytm200 my friend gave me because he thinks he blew it up. we were out riding one night on my 200x and he had his ytm 200, on the ride bike, it was alot of street riding his trike started to lose power and eventually stalled, his head pipe was glowing. he thinks he blew it up, since then it has sat in my back yard for a year, it starts up every time on the second pull, and i can ride it around my back yard all day, but it does not have the power it used too, it can barely go up hills on the street any more, so far i have checked the plug, checked the decompression cable to make sure it wasnt stuck, and i adjusted the clutch last night (it was turned all the way tight so i loosened it a 1/4 turn like the books says) i will try it again tommorow during the day with the new clutch adjustment. and i have also cleaned out the carb/ everything looks good with the carb, air filter is clean. this trike used to run very good and used to keep up with my 200x no problem. i will also throw the compression gauge on tommorow, as i do not think it is blown up. any other suggestions on what to check before i drain the oil and start looking at the two clutches, or what to look for on the clutches?? im pretty good with working on quads, but i am not familiar with automatic quads. thanks !
also one more thing the P.O. did switch the stock pipe for a DC pipe, and never made any carb adjustments, but he rode with me for about a year no issues with that set-up........and the motor does idle good, the head pipe does still start to glow every time i try to ride it up the street up a hill.......also we used to do alot of riding through creeks. thanks

John Tice
11-14-2015, 11:29 PM
Plum; somewhere along the line you surely seized the cylinder & piston. When I was a young tike I stuck my 250 Honda twin. It kept running for a month or so & finally came to a grinding halt.
Next step is a compression & leak down test. This will tell you what’s going on. Some of the other readers will know what the cranking compression needs to be. Best case; hone & new set of rings. Worst case; bore or sleeve with new piston & rings. Cost; best case around a hundred bux. Worst case; $200-$500. Many times you can get an ebay deal for parts; probably so with your engine.
Time to get your hands dirty
:(

John Tice
503-593-2908 Alternate 541-508-3944
www.smallenginemachineworks.com & www.nwsleeve.com
Turning Custom Cylinder Sleeves Since 1971

plumbercustoms
11-15-2015, 12:50 AM
it very well could be, i will check the cold compression tommorow!

plumbercustoms
11-15-2015, 03:28 PM
okay i did a quick 3 pull compression test and i got 120psi cold......i pulled the centrifugal clutch off and the hub is notched deeply, could this be the main problem for having no power at the rear wheels? i didnt inspect the secondary clutch yet
223826

350for350
11-15-2015, 11:33 PM
No matter what you come up with, you need to richen up the carb. Your friend should have never rode it after the first time the pipe glowed red!

barnett468
11-16-2015, 04:11 AM
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i your gauge is accurate your compression is pretty low and my guess is that the piston minor seized . . i would remove the top end and check it and if the bore is worn i would bore it out.

the hub is worn but if you put the front wheel against a tree or something then slowly open the throttle about half way you can see if the engine revs up much . . i it does, at least one of the clutches is definitely slipping.
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