Hello from ND

[Shooter275]

Hey guys first post here! Iv only rode a trike once in my life and that was my little sisters 85 atc 110 (or 125 cant remeber). Never really thought I'd ever own one til a few weeks ago, a coworker of mine had a little ATC 90 sitting in front of his garage not running, flat tires. Not really banged up to bad has a cracked rear fender. So I asked him what he had to have for it. Long story short I picked it up for 75 bucks. Wasn't sure of the year of it at the time til I stumbled across a post on this site that had a link to a vin decoder and turned up its a 1975! my friend said it needed a carb cleaning, a new throttle cable and the brakes like to stick. So I ordered a throttle cable off eBay, cleaned the carb up good unclogged the jets put it all back together than stripped out a screw on the fuel shutoff. So back to ebay I went ordered a new carb. Got that put on and fired up first pull! All together I'm into the project about 140 bucks with the price of the trike so far. Still has flat tires though looking to take care of that once it warms up a bit. Just wanted to make sure it ran good before I put new skin's on her. I have no idea what the value of these bad boys are so if anyone could give me a price on what a half decent one running is worth I'd appreciate it!

My plans for it is really to just putt around my farm with and check my targets I do long distance shooting and this will make it alot more enjoyable then walking 800+ yards lol. Second plan is to make it faster then my little sisters atc. I was getting cocky saying I was going to beat my dad in a race this summer.

The wiring on the wheeler is just a mess so I plan on redoing all that the right way instead of electrical tape over twisted together wires. Look into the break system and see why its sticking. The crack in the rear fender I'm not really to worried about I work at Cirrus Aircraft if you don't know what that is, it is a composite single engine aircraft so working with glass shouldn't be a problem for me since I do it on a daily basis.

Looking forward to hanging around and learning about my new hobby with you guys/girls!

Heres a picture of my new ride!

[ps2fixer]

Looks pretty good, I had a 76 that I had a hard time selling for $500 locally, only real issue was seat torn, and the inside of the tank had enough rust to plug the carb up pretty often (both very common). I ended up parting about 90% of it out and have recovered $600 or so from it and I still have the seat/fenders and a couple if misc stuff on my webstore (http://atcfixer.com).

If the wiring is shot, I make reproduction wire harnesses, the ATC90 is $35 + $3 shipping might save you quite a bit of time if you don't want to bother with doing it yourself. The best photos I have of the harness are on my ebay listing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ATC90-and-US90-Wire-Harness-Fits-All-Years-/191796955476?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

No pressure to buy from me or anything, just offering it up.

Good luck on fixing her up, $75 is really cheap, just looks like you need a headlight, headlight switch (there is a reproduction of them somewhere I saw), and sand/repaint the rear fenders for a real nice rider assuming the rest is good to go.

These machines had the split rims, might be a fair idea to break them down and repaint the inside of the rim and put in new O-rings when you swap the tires or they might leak. The other option is new rims, but the 3 lug pattern isn't so common. There are a ton of other hubs that could swap on the axle though to make it 4x110 or the big red bolt pattern (4x130 I think).

Good point on the atc90's a ton of the parts interchange from the US90 years to 78 atc90, so parts are fairly easy to come across. For the race... I'd say buy a 2nd machine for that, the atc90 isn't a complete turd, but it is only 90cc, a 125m, 185/200/s/m/es/e, etc would be better for faster machines. For real speed/racing you'd be looking at from a 250es big red,250sx, 200x, 350x, to the fastest 250r.

[Shooter275]

Thanks for the info! Might have to take you up on that wiring harness of its a complete mess like it looks like. Yeah I was looking for some polished aluminum rims and seemed like majority of them were 4 lug so maybe I'll go thst route. It also needs a kill switch and seems like they're all high priced that iv found like 60 to 100 bucks. Is that really the going rate for them?

[ps2fixer]

Kill switch (oem but another machine i think?) - http://dratv.com/kswat7.html
Headlight (aftermarket) - http://dratv.com/ofasct.html

Site no longer has the headlight switch.

I have no relation to the site above, just high ranked on google search results. If you don't care about looks, there are tons of cheap aftermarket kill switches you could use, one from a dirt bike would probably be cheapest (push and hold to kill style). You need a normally open kill switch (open for run, closed for kill).

OEM and NOS parts can be very expensive depending how common the parts go bad and how soon Honda discontinued the part. There is a pretty strong following on the atc70 and atc90, so there are a lot of people trying to fix them to oem specs and there are a very limited supply of parts. Same thing goes for 85-86 250r and 350x since they are the biggest machines. The 200 series is probably the cheapest to fix/restore I'd guess due to how common they are.

If you have plenty of room, a second machine for parts never hurts if you can run across one for a good price.

[Shooter275]

I picked up tubes for it today and got the rears off no problem. But the front one I'm having some problems with. I took the 2 castle nuts off and it won't budge. It looks like it should drop right out? Am I missing a step or do I just need to start hitting it with a hammer til it breaks or comes off? Lol judging by how much of a pain it is breaking these beads on the rears I'm guessing they haven't been off in a longgggg time

[ps2fixer]

I'd say #6 is holding you up.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1976/ATC90+A/FRONT+WHEEL+%2B+AXLE/parts.html

It is a thick washer with a step down in size that goes in the forks. You have to take the nuts off all the way, and get those washers (collar in the diagram) out of the forks before they will drop down. I think you can also slide the bolt/shaft out unless things are rusted up too much.

I added a photo of the ones I have had in the past.

[Shooter275]

Yep Im pretty sure that's the guy. That's what I was thinking that was holding me up. But my fingers went numb from the cold so just brought my rears inside to do those. I'll have to mess around with it when I get home from work. Sure wish warm weather would come soon! Lol

[ps2fixer]

Been a really odd year over here in Michigan... well I guess that is normal lol. Snow came late, warmed and up most melted away, then cold and snowing again :(. Was weird hitting mid to high 40's last month.

From memory, I only had to take one machine apart that had them, and in that case it was being parted out, so it was down to a roller frame no plastics etc and I just flopped it upside down and tapped on them with a hammer + punch. Mine were in pretty clean/good shape, I'd hate to try to take them out if they were rusty... punching out the bolt might be easier in that case, but before getting too extreme make sure you have replacement parts lol. Actaully now that I think about it, I'm thinking the middle of the bolt is larger, not super sure but punching out the bolt might not be possible. Maybe someone can correct me?

[Shooter275]

Got to go for my first ride today! Gotta say thats the best 75 bucks iv spent in awhile! I got her up to 26mph (according to my phone) in low range and I weight about 240lbs. Way faster then I figured it would of been! But for some reason it doesn't always wanna go into high range. Does the machine need to be turned off to switch it or is something wore out internally? It will switch once in awhile

[ps2fixer]

I'm not super sure how the atc90s were for switching low/high, but in the 200es big reds I have had, a lot of the times it was easier to shift if it was in gear idling not moving, sometimes rocking was needed, and other times shifting into neutral would make it easier. Never really noticed a pattern, I think it mainly matters how the gears line up and shifting it makes them move slightly to line up.

A lot of ppl don't know about the hi/low range on the atc90s, for the most part it isn't needed, but then again I only rode one a few times, and none of the hills around me were too big to require lower gearing. Mud etc would be a different story though.

[Shooter275]

I'll have to give that a shot and see. Not sure maybe it's stuck in high range and won't go to low, it's pretty snappy off the line so felt like low range

[Shooter275]

Im losing alot of oil between the head and the cylinder jug. Would it be just a head gasket or is there something else? I saw one a youtube video of some guy that forgot a head stud gasket and his was leaking oil pretty good I was thinking maybe that's it? Anyone ever run into this issue? Would it be easier to just rebuild the top end?228140

[ps2fixer]

If I remember the top end gets oil by over sized holes for the head/cyl studs and where they come together it has a round locating pin that seals the tunnel. Since oil is being pumped though, maybe that is the source of the leak?

Those engines are so simple, if it runs fine, I'd say pop the head/cyl off and check to make sure everything is there and throw in new gaskets. It's like a 30-45 min job if you have done it before and can be done in the machine if it has the removable head mount.

I think there is also a rubber gasket for the timing chain tunnel, and I think you can't get them from Honda any more. I'd think they would come in a top end gasket kit though.