View Full Version : Outfitting my 85 250es for a big man.
Hey guys, I have a 85 250es big red that I use for lots of stuff. Spraying weeds, yard work, trail riding, chasing pigs, playing in the river, ect. Its pretty rough looking, but it always runs. I'm a big guy 6'4" 300 and I want to lift the big red to help it offroad and also make me look more appropriate on it!
I see all the theads where everyone builds a 2.5-3.5 inch front lift (I have a pretty shot 200 big red i will cut up for that) and the 1.5-2" spacer for the rear shock. But I'm wondering id there is a bigger shock I can get. Mine is worn out and I'm heavy so Id really like to just upgrade it. And if I could upgrade and lift at the same time thats even better (maybe gain an inch or 2 of travel instead of just lifting)
I plan to eventualy strip my machine down and do some painting, lift, build new back rack, and do something with the seat and plastics. I bought some 25x12r9 dirt devil at's for the rear (it has 26" tires now and I cant imagine giving up any more power, so i think 25 is good. ) I havent decided what to run up front but Im thinking of something that looks more like a steering tire than a mudder. I have trouble turning some when I have my 15gal spraytank on the back.
This photo definetly makes it look nicer than it is!
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/99643A99-398D-421B-BDD8-CD0BFFAEAA6D_zpsvcnaa9po.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/99643A99-398D-421B-BDD8-CD0BFFAEAA6D_zpsvcnaa9po.jpg.html)
And here is one with me on it for size reference:
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/4B91C71B-7BE3-4C42-94B0-8D3B461F081C_zpsq2ogstth.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/4B91C71B-7BE3-4C42-94B0-8D3B461F081C_zpsq2ogstth.jpg.html)
ironchop
02-21-2016, 02:16 PM
I don't think you look too big for that at all but maybe I'm biased at 6'6" and 230.
As for a better steer tire, the gain would probably be minimal. I would add weight to the front since your sprayer tank will tend to lift the already light frontend no matter what tread you run making it push steer when you turn. Maybe throw a second tank on the front with a line into the rear to add more balance
As for suspension, there are much more knowledgeable guys than me on that subject who could tell you if there's a proven shock/ shock travel upgrade.
Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk
Buck Snort
02-21-2016, 02:39 PM
You don't look too big on that Big Red. In fact you remind me of me. lol
3 Wheel Drive
02-21-2016, 03:04 PM
http://www.atv.com/blog/2010/03/andre-the-giant-on-a-three-wheeler.html
If he can ride one anyone can.
DohcBikes
02-21-2016, 06:01 PM
The only way to change the aspect ratio between you and the bike would be to stretch the frame, add a larger tank, etc. Lots of engineering involved.
The only real lift is larger tires. Put some light weight 27's on it, Maybe a tad wider offset wheels, then lift the suspension just enough to clear the tires at full compression. K.I.S.S. method, in full effect.
Thanks guys. I will do some looking for a shock.
I also need to rewire this bad boy. Its a mess.
Getting to work on this. Here is a quick teaser!
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/1EBA0E11-CE6A-4113-ADCE-2EB8396FBA12_zps0yvttfip.jpg[/[URL=http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/336D1ACB-23C4-4017-96DC-BA4A0F55FEDD_zpsiwz30hol.png.html]http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/336D1ACB-23C4-4017-96DC-BA4A0F55FEDD_zpsiwz30hol.png (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/1EBA0E11-CE6A-4113-ADCE-2EB8396FBA12_zps0yvttfip.jpg.html)
Going 3" up front, 2" lift rear.
1.5" wheel spacers
Tires are 25x12.
I got my wheels stripped and powder coated after church. I also got about 3/4 of the front lift built. I hope It heavy duty enough. I just took some 1.5" roll cage tube 3 1/4" and split it down one side. Then drove a piece of smaller tube that fit in the fork hole in it about 3/8 inch and welded it in. I added some strap Iron down the split on each side and drilled 2 bolt holes to suck it tight. I will drive it into the tree and tighten the bolts and then weld it up good. And install the forks like normal.
I may add a piece of 1" strap iron down the back side for additional strength since that's how most of the force will be applied. I don't do anything crazy, but don't want anything to fold up on me.
Has anyone built their own rear plastics? I'm pretty good with fiberglass, I'm trying to decide what to do. I need to rebuild my rear rack and my fenders are shot. So I may lay some glass and see what I end up with.
Does anyone know about aftermarket plastics? Seems they are all a little different and most don't have good pics.
I'd like some that don't use the mud flaps or tail lights.
ps2fixer
03-31-2016, 02:34 AM
I agree with the others, the big red looks about right sided for you. Weight in the front does amazing things, back when I was using my 200cc big red like a tractor pulling stuff, I had a ~100lb block of cement strapped to the front rack, heavy to steer but I could steer! Low range was really useful on that thing lol.
I was going to suggest 26in tires, but I see you already have them and are down sizing to 25in, you will loose 1/2in ground clearance and height from that, just a FYI.
The rear shock is kind of a strange setup, the bottom (maybe both) eyelets are really skinny vs most other models I see. I rarely see the honda shocks blown out so I never had to change one yet, ironically every Yamaha I have bought had the rear shocks blown out (tri-z and a 87 warrior). If you don't mind the fab work, you can open up the options a lot more. Since you use it for work, and weigh a bit, I'd target a shock from a larger quad, maybe a 450 foreman if it runs a single rear shock. I don't know the measurements, but it seems the quads run a longer swing arm and they moved the shock back further, so the shock travels further for the same wheel travel.
There are some people on this board that have access to good shock info, such as bolt to bolt length, travel, etc, but I don't know where they get the info from :(.
Yea, I really wanted some 26 or 27" tires, but I tried some 27's and they stole too much power. It had 26" when I got it and the 24s on it now are better. Maybe in the future I will do gear reduction. These 25's look a little oversized, maybe 26 actual.
In the pics it has 24x10 off a Honda 420 rancher. And a 26x12 up front.
I'm thinking about using the stock seat off my VN2000 motorcycle. That raises me up an inch. I will have to do some tank work to make it look right too. I've just about got everything forward of the tank fixed up. (Tire, wheel, Lift, paint, rhino line rack, front brake.)
Now I need to take these dirtbike handle bars off and put some off a 200 big red on.
ps2fixer
04-01-2016, 01:31 AM
Oh yea, I was going to mention some handle bars that come up higher, but I don't know what a good match up would be.
Based on the description, the 26 vs 25 shouldn't be enough to really effect the power much unless you are in some nasty mud. Just for the sake of checking, have you, or do you have access to do a compression test? If it is low on compression, nothing much will help it except bringing it back to factory specs.
Here are a couple of pics of two of my 250es big reds (same tires though) I ran at trike fest. I drove though some of the nastiest clay I could find and didn't have any power issues. Tires are 25in and were burried 20+ inches in some spots, one I got stuck in the rear rack was under the water line. I know I'm a skinny guy at around 150lb, but I really don't think another 150lb would be a deal breaker with it. The white seat machine does have a Cobra exhaust, other is all factory that I know of.
Everything is slow with me on it! I haven't checked the compression, but I can. It's no problem. What should it be?
It seems to have lots of power, I pull a small plow and a 13x7 trailer all the time. But I also spray a lot of weeds and with me, spray boom, car battery, and 15 gallons water on it you can sure tell it's loaded when you pull a long hill and your in high gear. It's not bad or anything, I just don't want to give up any. I've never had an issue with power in the mud or anything.
Oh yea, I was going to mention some handle bars that come up higher, but I don't know what a good match up would be. of.
I have some on a junk 200 big red. The ones on here are off a dirtbike. The big red bars have atleast 2" more rise. Than what's on here now. I guess someone wrecked this think lots of times.
ps2fixer
04-01-2016, 12:22 PM
Service manual specs is 170-185psi.
Here is the whole engine specs list from the manual.
https://gyazo.com/4558b28c959ba6a7177a6d58cec23003
Kind of hate to say it, but you probably would love a 200es big red for its low range =). I don't have much for hills around in Michigan, so I'm a bit of a flat lander. I don't think there are too many options for gear reduction on the 250es. I do seem to recall something about a trx300 gear set (primary clutch and clutch basket) could give a reduction, but I don't remember if that was for a 250es engine or not. Looking at the torque peak (13.7 ft-lb @ 6000rpm), it seems the engine isn't the greatest for bottom end grunt, but I never seen the torque curve and generally am looking at car/truck engines to compare to.
There was a top end swap to up the engine to a 300cc, I think it was from a trx300 but research it out first. I sort of recall it being possible to swap a 350x or a trx350d (similar design) with some extra work. Might be a good option if you're into working on engines and such.
Anyway, just throwing some ideas out there for ya. At least it isn't a 125cc you're using as a tractor =), my uncle did that for ~10 years before he sold it.
It has plenty of power, just not an excess to spare. If I do anything motor swap wise it would probably be a 420 rancher swap.
I reassembled the front. 3.25 lift. It's 1.5 tube with some smaller tube welded in and then stuck in the old mount. I welded it up after bolting it in.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/2451379E-34CC-404E-8889-401F52852B14_zps76ypmmuv.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/2451379E-34CC-404E-8889-401F52852B14_zps76ypmmuv.jpg.html)
My http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/CB666967-F838-420A-A529-ADCC466D614E_zpsgeznchky.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/CB666967-F838-420A-A529-ADCC466D614E_zpsgeznchky.jpg.html) wheel spacers showed up for the back.
I'm working it from front to back. Trying to make it look good. Rear fenders are gonna be the challenge, but I may just fab some. The 25" tire looks pretty mean against those rancher 420 tires on the back in the pic.
Does anyone know if I can transfer the switches from my 200 big red to it? The 200 is for parts (pretty sure it runs, but plastics are all robbed and seat, tires shot. ) the 200 is a 83. High/low. I stole the bars today and noticed all the on/off and lights switches are nicer than what I have. Will they plug and play?
I think in the future I may graft it into a golf cart, I need to confirm it runs, one day I did verify it has spark, compression, so I assume I add fuel and off we go.
ps2fixer
04-01-2016, 11:22 PM
Looked at some ebay photos real quick to verify my guess, the switches are not a direct plug and play swap. I'm about 90% sure you could wire the 200e/es switch into a 250es but it would require splicing wires etc. The other factor to consider is the choke lever is built into the switch.
If you can figure out a solution for the choke I can most likely wire up the switch photoed below for your machine. It is a new honda switch that I adapt to what ever machine I need, the one that one replaced is from a atc350x, starter button isn't used on that machine, but I don't really care personally. I have another one on hand I could wire up to be plug and play on the 250es, price wise I'd be looking for $50 + around $6 shipping or $3 for first class shipping (slower).
I have another Honda part number I've been eye balling that looks like it has a choke system that might work, but I won't know till I buy one, it would be the same price, but I'd have to order one and test it out (I have a 250es to test on). Let me know if you are interested and I'll order one in my next order from Honda that I'll be doing within a week (probably 2-3 days).
I have the same wheel spacers somewhere in a shed or something as you show photoed. Personally didn't like them on my 250sx, but I like to slide the rear end around etc, and the wider stance made it harder to do that. I like to ride hard and get the back end sliding around and such =). It seemed to me that it made it harder to turn, but it also didn't tip nearly as easy either.
Earlier in the thread you said the 250es didn't look as good as the photos, is the plastic sun faded or something? To me it looks pretty good, a lot better than my rider with the Cobra exhaust.
I forgot about the choke. I may can swap that too from the 200. I don't mind doing some soldering to make it go if it's close. I also thought about just putting a couple toggles wherever I put my spray boom toggle. But that still leaves the choke.
The rear rack is real screwed. Someone welded angle iron down it and it's bent real bad on one side too.
The rear plastic is broken in several spots. Not to mention when someone added said angle iron, they burned holes all in the plastic. I guess it's the other side thats horrible.
Tank has been welded up, but still leaks. I'm gonna buff it down some and redcoat the inside before I paint it.
The rear rack is gonna be fun, remove added crap and straighten and then rhino line.
It starts looking ok at 10ft. Not for long. Forward of the tank looks great now. Even
My pessimistic wife said it looks great.
ps2fixer
04-02-2016, 12:09 AM
I see, figured the fenders were faded or cracked, wasn't expecting burn holes from welding though lol. The rear racks are not very thick metal, removing welds will be a royal pain, might be easier to buy some tubing and weld up a new one or buy a nice used one even though they tend to run close to $100 on feebay.
Going off from a person that I met that restores machines, when a gas tank has the pin holes, he gets it braised then recoated (zinc I think?) and he paints the outside and adds the stickers afterwards.
The choke might be a bit tricky. The 200e's pull out part is part of the cable and doesn't come apart. The other end that goes to the carb is the typical barrel style like the brake levers. The 250es has the barrel style on the headlight switches, however it has a different design that hooks into a plunger that opens a start jet inside the carb. If you're able to swap the end of the cable from one to the other I can see it being possible, but besides that you'd probably have to look for something else, maybe like an old 10 speed bike shifter (type that goes on the neck of the handle bars).
Another note about the choke, the cable doesn't move all that much, it only needs to pull around 3/8 of an inch.
Sadly the 250es is nearly nothing like a 200e or 200es, even though the 250 is based on the 200.
I noticed they are crazy different. Even the starter is on the opposite end of the motor. Front forks totally different. It kinda shocks me they would basically reengineer it instead of just bigger. I'm definitely thankful for the added rear suspension though.
Yea the rack is thin. I'm gonna try to cut it off without trashing it. I'm using the spray paint bed liner on the racks so I have some fudge room as far as it having some wounds. I'm trying to get it looking pretty good for as little money as I can. My friends are giving me hell for being a 3 wheeler guy, so I want to make this something awesome for less than $500
I originally swapped a 30 of beer for it. And spent $15 on a new coil to make it run. I'm 180 in the tires. 42 wheel spacers. 40 in spray paint 23 for a one way bearing it needs (I haven't put it in) It needs a battery too, if I rebuild the rear rack I may figure out how to use a spare lawnmower battery I have Layin around. I think a can of tank liner is $40, but it will do 2-3 atv tanks. I thought I had some, but no luck finding.
ps2fixer
04-02-2016, 09:51 AM
The 84 200es big red was the most sold machine based on production numbers (over 200k), I think 83 was over 100k as well from memory. The 200x was pretty popular, but there it went down pretty quick. I think the 350x numbers was something like 15-20k per year. Since the 200 big red was their most popular machine, they probably wanted to redesign it for their customer (farmers and people using them for yard work). Really wish they kept low range on them though.
I get a fair amount of crap driving a Toyota (and having 15 more in the yard that I'm parting out lol), but whoever is giving me crap always breaks down before me, and I kindly remind them if they had a Toyota (maintenance goes a long ways)....
My dad really didn't like the 3 wheelers either, he didn't really give me crap, he just preferred 4 wheels. There has been a few times he mentioned he was shocked how well I do on 3 wheelers, one of them being TF2014, I climbed every hill he did with his 4x4 quad on my 250sx.
For the lawnmower battery, you could remove the black plastic for the rear storage compartment and make up a box to bolt in where the rear grab bar bolts to the frame. That would keep the lid for looks, while at the same time saving the money on the new battery at the expense of metal and time.
I get some odd looks every once in a while on the trails when I'm riding my ugly machine, but I have nothing to worry about as it is completely a spare machine that was really ugly when I first got it (200s tank and all). It has progressed a little but the tires have made up for it a few times. My cousin's friend didn't believe me that highlifter outlaws were the hardest pulling mud tire of their day, so he took a 4x4 quad out to the nastiest mud hole he knew of (mainly water) and I idled though it. On the way back the rear end snagged on a small stump or something and it stopped and he though I was stuck, backed up and drove around it and he was pissed lol. He now owns them after bugging me for 2 years for them.
Ones on the 3 wheeler are 25 inch, the blaster has 28 inch (they were on a 350 warrior that went though more mud than most 4x4 quads could with mild aggressive tires), but it had to be regeared a LOT and it was still too high geared (down to 11 front from 13, and up to 52 in the rear from 40). That warrior was a blast in winter time, I could do snow wheelies if the snow was deep enough.
My brother had a stock blaster he took to the river. It was pretty good. He would just hit the water in 3rd gear full throttle and skim it. It died a painful death one day when it fell off the back of the pickup going 75 down the highway!
The big red before I started working on it went pretty much wherever you pointed it. But I have had to back out of deep water a few times. I will probably add a small pvc snorkel to the intake like I see others do. Not that I intend to go that deep, I just don't want to worry about falling in a deep hole and sucking water. 2' gets me almost anywhere I will go.
I ruined a Polaris 425 one time. I saw a Toyota in the river with about 6" of tire sticking out of the water. I dumped off the bank into it and turns out the Toyota must have had 44's on it! I made it out, but it was never the same.
ps2fixer
04-02-2016, 10:50 AM
Not sure if you know where the 3 wheelers intake goes to, but it has a sort of snorkel from factory. It hooks up to the frame tube under the gas tank and runs up to the front of the frame. Basically you'd have to get the gas tank 1/2 under water before it would be sucking water assuming everything else is sealed well. Rear end vent doesn't go up too far, so other things to consider too.
Talking about the rear end, might be a good idea to go ride it and check the fluid for water (milky look). It is fairly common for water to get in the axle tubes and work its way into the rear end if the seals are not tip top shape. Not exactly saying to rebuild the rear end if you find water in it, but the axle tube seal can go bad. It is one of the areas I'd use red RTV and wipe off all excess. The hub bearings should seal to keep the water out with the tubs themselves being sealed up. Another spot to check is between the engine and swing arm, the boot there can get dry rotted and rip sometimes.
That story about the Toyota reminds me of a video. I think it might take place in Africa and the driver probably gets paid to get people across the river. I like the tires though, saw one other truck with them and they seem to do great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAtUU1SuS9M
Btw I'm not trying to be biased against American made or anything, I just have very great experience with Toyotas compared to the several American made things I have owned over the years.
ironchop
04-02-2016, 04:38 PM
Hey ps2fixer, don't apologize for loving a Yota...I'm a big fan myself. I owned a 78 FJ40 with the stock inline six (285 HP stock), a four speed, and first year for front disc brakes. I've owned a couple CJs but that six banger FJ is STILL the very best four wheel drive vehicle I've ever owned including Ford, Chevy, Jeep, IH scout, and Subaru. I never cared for the small trucks though but only because I can't fit it one.
Edit to say I can't stand when ppl put small block Chevy's in them. The stock mill is more than enough and first gear is comparable to first in the T18 or lower.
On the other matter, I recall a couple good threads about lifting and snorkeling BRs in here somewhere
Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk
ps2fixer
04-02-2016, 05:49 PM
Completely agree with you on the FJ's being one of the best 4x4 machines out there. I just put the disclaimer on my post because there are so many Americans that take offense when you go against their beloved Ford or Chevy. IH scouts do pretty well, I have a 72 and my dad had a 76 (his first "car"). The big trick with them is put the leaf springs on top of the axles instead of under.
Not to redirect this thread or anything, but my dad is undertaking a project involving a T100, E350 Ford van (was a motorhome), and a Lexus SC400. Basically his goal is a T100 extended cab with the full sized box (reg cab or long box), with a true dual 1 ton rear end. He hulls wood often to burn and sell, the Toyota does well, but he longs for the duels and the V8 power (he read that pretty simple mods can be done to the 1UZ v8 to make it ~500hp). If/when he starts on the project I'll have to grab some photos and post them up here in the open forums.
Anyway back on topic, I forgot to mention about the snorkel being a pretty easy mod, just felt the stock setup covers things quite well... unless you're driving though a lake =).
I got it done forward of the tank. 3.25 front lift, plasti kote bed liner on rack and light frame. Fixed the front brake and headlight while I was in there. 200e big red handle bars.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/65CB487C-83B1-418C-9BF3-72B1FF0EC592_zpsugbfsme2.jpg[/[URL=http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/E685D9BE-684F-4016-8268-15DF860303D5_zps70wkqde7.jpg.html]http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/E685D9BE-684F-4016-8268-15DF860303D5_zps70wkqde7.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/65CB487C-83B1-418C-9BF3-72B1FF0EC592_zpsugbfsme2.jpg.html)
The lift is hardly noticeable. It's like "why does that thing look so bad ass?"
I bought some tank liner for the tank. I haven't fully decided to paint the tank or not. It has some dents and welding on the bottoms where someone tried to fix it. I don't know what's to gain or loose either way. It's just rattle can. I may airbrush something on it like "big big red". I'm not going through the effort of poping dents and filling. I've done several motorcycles and its way too much work.
The red I'm painting with is Ace Rust Stop "regal red gloss".
ps2fixer
04-09-2016, 12:32 PM
Funny about the "big big red" name. That is what I call my dad's big red, because mine is the 3 wheeler, and his is the side by side.
Looks like you might need some hand grips. Here are the cheapest ones I know of, and they are OEM from newer machines! I have bought both correct oem and the one linked below and the only difference I see is the very very end doesn't have the lip like the oem ones. A photo says so much more, so I added on
Cheap alternative - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-53165-HP5-600.html
Correct OEM - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-53165-958-010.html
You should be able to pick them up from your local dealer for the same price with out dealing with shipping, just bring the part numbers. I think a glue is required when installing them, haven't installed a set yet.
Got the rear lift done. I just went 1.75" center to center.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/D1D62A48-03FE-4394-A63A-1DA4B7508862_zpsgvwz16tw.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/D1D62A48-03FE-4394-A63A-1DA4B7508862_zpsgvwz16tw.jpg.html)
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/F7B75225-5004-4666-BD88-A92A51457EC5_zpsibmfmjcq.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/F7B75225-5004-4666-BD88-A92A51457EC5_zpsibmfmjcq.jpg.html)
I failed the 5 gallon bucket test by almost 2" guess I'm not as cool as I http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/83A4368A-94EA-4B2B-A307-AA03782B08DD_zpstalwvq6r.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/83A4368A-94EA-4B2B-A307-AA03782B08DD_zpstalwvq6r.jpg.html)
cr480r
04-10-2016, 11:57 PM
Good luck keeping the front down on a hill.. :)
tripledog
04-11-2016, 12:13 AM
^^^ He has 300 lbs of operator ballast to work with. It's all good. Nice looking ES, IMHO.
cr480r
04-11-2016, 01:11 AM
Sometimes I forget people live in different places.. I love all big reds.. Even lifted ones..
Yea I also carry a cooler on the front rack when I'm out riding. The lift didn't move the wheelbase terribly far though maybe an inch and I gained 1/2 an inch up front. I don't do anything real crazy either. Some of what I'm trying to accomplish is riding in water, but I mostly just do light chores and spraying around the place. Most of my joy riding is on pretty flat sand/water/mud 10mph cruise.
I'm pretty tempted to do a swing arm extension, I could make this look real big and mean. But I think that will wait until I convince my brother to give me his 420 rancher.
ps2fixer
04-11-2016, 01:22 PM
I'm not sure what else is a bolt on swing arm for the 250es, but always interesting to find out about the rancher =). The 85/86 trx250 is the same basic setup as the 250sx.
When I was researching rear diffs for the sx/es, it seems to me that the newer machines had higher gear ratios and the big red was the lowest geared rear. Just something to keep in mind. A lot of the times you can find photos of the ring/pinion on ebay and count the teeth to calculate the ratio.
ordered me some fenders today for the rear. It's coming along pretty nice so far.
I still have to replace the one way clutch and I think I have a bad bearing on the drivers side axle.
I also have a friend that's going to recover my seat.
As of now all the electronics work.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/95FFC561-D1FC-4F5F-AC17-6C4E0305C6F5_zpszjhptclw.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/95FFC561-D1FC-4F5F-AC17-6C4E0305C6F5_zpszjhptclw.jpg.html)
Of course no mud machine is complete with out a cup holder. http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/7287C029-14C5-4817-B793-28730D2653BF_zpsyuizpobq.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/7287C029-14C5-4817-B793-28730D2653BF_zpsyuizpobq.jpg.html)
New rear fenders are on. I need some tail light lenses.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/73BA9D3E-EAF0-4F3A-97EA-8DA85C9E3543_zpspkulzi3e.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/73BA9D3E-EAF0-4F3A-97EA-8DA85C9E3543_zpspkulzi3e.jpg.html)
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/15070F6A-C7B8-49B9-A81B-028824A6C398_zpsdpxmvr3v.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/15070F6A-C7B8-49B9-A81B-028824A6C398_zpsdpxmvr3v.jpg.html)
ps2fixer
04-23-2016, 10:53 AM
Tail Light lens - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-33702-HA0-003.html
Cap for the dash - http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-53206-HM5-730ZA.html
I also noticed in the pic your gas cap isn't on all the way, and is also on backwards (arrow points forward). Not sure if the arrow thing is a big deal, might just be so the on/off wording is easier to read.
Anyway, machine is looking better all the time, nice work!
Yea I noticed the cap this morning. I remember now leaving it loose so the por15 liner could dry (didn't put the cap on at all for 2 days)
I have the dash cap I just haven't put it on.
I swapped the one way bearing this morning. It was a piece of cake. It took less than 30 minutes start to finish, but I did use my 18volt Impact driver to take all the bolt out and reassemble.
I think my cyntrfical clutch is getting pretty worn, there were some good grooves in the drum. But man was I impressed with how clean the engine was inside. More like shocked.
Now the kick start engages perfectly. I haven't really tried it though because I want my sealant to dry good before putting oil in.
On another note, when I hit the starter to test that the neutral light shuts off. And it doesn't make an attempt to start. Do I have a bad connection or do these have an oil level sensor? The headlight comes on bright and I hooked up my charger and it says battery is full. The starter was kicking in. the other day, but making horrible noises due to the one way bearing I assume. I guess I will find out here when I add oil. Not sure how long I can wait. It's been an hour I bet that's good unless I'm gonna wait 24 hours.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/A9D9A04D-A066-4A2B-B208-590FAB7C6246_zpsdhmpyc2z.jpg[/[URL=http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/B145522F-E50A-4388-B706-85E5A674122C_zpsm2y5r6lt.jpg.html]http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/B145522F-E50A-4388-B706-85E5A674122C_zpsm2y5r6lt.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/A9D9A04D-A066-4A2B-B208-590FAB7C6246_zpsdhmpyc2z.jpg.html)
ps2fixer
04-23-2016, 01:37 PM
If you used RTV for the side cover gasket, be very careful and use the thinnest layer you can lay. If you get any gobs inside and it lets go, it can plug up oil passages and trash your engine.
If the electric starter is making noises, you will want to atleast take the small cover off the left side of the engine off and check the gears out there. If they look good, then the one way bearing for the electric start might be bad. Very similar setup, just the bearing is for the opposite side of the engine and goes between the flywheel and "ring gear" that the starter turns.
The inside of the engines should be really clean, if it wasn't, I'd be alarmed lol. Just a little bit of dirt can really mess up an engine.
For the start problem, if I recall correctly, the neutral/reverse indicator switches are on the same side cover you have to take off for the kick start one way bearing job. Might just be a poor connection, they should click when pressed on all the way, same type of connector as the bullet connectors on most of the harness.
If the electric starter is making noises, you will want to atleast take the small cover off the left side of the engine off and check the gears out there. If they look good, then the one way bearing for the electric start might be bad. Very similar setup, just the bearing is for the opposite side of the engine and goes between the flywheel and "ring gear" that the starter turns
Awe man I was under the impression that the one way bearing I replace was what was making both starter and kick start not work. Well that sucks. I'll investigate the other side soon.
ps2fixer
04-23-2016, 02:38 PM
Yea, sadly there is one on each side of the engine. Right side one is used with the transmission as well when you "engine brake", so it is most common to be bad.
Here is the starter gears I was talking about and the little cover for them.
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m2g98XAq8oIyYxBshTyAoEA.jpg
Is is another shot that someone had fun setting the gears in their location with out the cover. Should give a fair idea how they are in there.
http://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/attachments/repair-maintenance/11784d1359333835-85-trx-250-one-way-clutch-bad-img_2251.jpg
Starter gears are pretty common to get messed up too sadly. I'd offer up a set, but I'm pretty positive I'm all out of them. The TRX250 gear set works too and might be slightly cheaper, but they are geared slightly lower too. I sold a set to a 3ww member here and they worked for him with the 250es starter.
Here is a few better pics. Just because I'm bored waiting for church.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/0B01EF30-4223-4EF0-8BC5-B5502323EC68_zpsimszvpiu.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/0B01EF30-4223-4EF0-8BC5-B5502323EC68_zpsimszvpiu.jpg.html)
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/FF015C92-D500-46AC-9150-910CD754EEC1_zpshz0498rt.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/FF015C92-D500-46AC-9150-910CD754EEC1_zpshz0498rt.jpg.html)
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt20/sabraturner/7A5A7A2F-883E-4CA8-B170-5358DEC46EEC_zpsvfwnqtol.jpg (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/sabraturner/media/7A5A7A2F-883E-4CA8-B170-5358DEC46EEC_zpsvfwnqtol.jpg.html)
martin.tyrel
08-31-2016, 11:39 PM
Looked at some ebay photos real quick to verify my guess, the switches are not a direct plug and play swap. I'm about 90% sure you could wire the 200e/es switch into a 250es but it would require splicing wires etc. The other factor to consider is the choke lever is built into the switch.
If you can figure out a solution for the choke I can most likely wire up the switch photoed below for your machine. It is a new honda switch that I adapt to what ever machine I need, the one that one replaced is from a atc350x, starter button isn't used on that machine, but I don't really care personally. I have another one on hand I could wire up to be plug and play on the 250es, price wise I'd be looking for $50 + around $6 shipping or $3 for first class shipping (slower).
I have another Honda part number I've been eye balling that looks like it has a choke system that might work, but I won't know till I buy one, it would be the same price, but I'd have to order one and test it out (I have a 250es to test on). Let me know if you are interested and I'll order one in my next order from Honda that I'll be doing within a week (probably 2-3 days).
I have the same wheel spacers somewhere in a shed or something as you show photoed. Personally didn't like them on my 250sx, but I like to slide the rear end around etc, and the wider stance made it harder to do that. I like to ride hard and get the back end sliding around and such =). It seemed to me that it made it harder to turn, but it also didn't tip nearly as easy either.
Earlier in the thread you said the 250es didn't look as good as the photos, is the plastic sun faded or something? To me it looks pretty good, a lot better than my rider with the Cobra exhaust.
Ps2fixer; I would be interested in the switch housing with the choke, what are the chances it will work? (If it's still available)
what's a speed limit?
ps2fixer
09-01-2016, 02:29 AM
I'd have to find the part again, but if memory serves me correctly, it was quite expensive and since I haven't seen any interest except for your reply so far, I suspect not many would want to spend $60-80 for a honda made switch adapted to for the 250es (and probably 250sx).
The other switch w\o the choke is the cheapest one I've found with the kill switch and headlight controls.
If the price tag didn't scare you off and you're still interested, shoot me a PM and I'll fork out the money to buy the switch I was looking at before (when I find it again). It would be good atleast for the research value of it since there is basically no info online about the internal parts of the assemblies.
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