PDA

View Full Version : Chainsaw hard to start



BarnBoy
05-10-2016, 05:04 PM
Hi,

My Poulan 2150 chainsaw is hard to start. It seems like it floods after a couple pulls. I have tried without priming, on different choke settings, etc. If I can't get it going after 3 or 4 pulls, then I have to pull forever even to get it to fire once. I did just put a new carb on it, could it be that I need to adjust something on it? Any suggestions?

Thanks

fabiodriven
05-10-2016, 07:41 PM
Poulin? Throw it away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yaegerb
05-10-2016, 07:54 PM
I bought the poulan as well and unfortunately I got what I paid for. See if you have spark. Later this year I will be upgrading to a stihl.

BarnBoy
05-10-2016, 08:35 PM
Well, I got it for free. I would never buy a Poulan. It has good spark and good compression, but feels like it floods after a few pulls. It sputters on the first few, then nothing. I have had it running, and when it runs it runs good. But I think I am going to try and get rid of it.

fabiodriven
05-10-2016, 08:40 PM
To each their own but if someone gave me one I'd pick it up once only to drop it in the trash. Those take the term "shoddy" to their own level. I wouldn't reach for a screwdriver to adjust the carburetor (if it were adjustable, which it isn't). Any time I've seen one of those they're either brand new or not running. They're disposable, made to fail, and a waste of time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RIDE-RED 250r
05-10-2016, 08:50 PM
True that like many things, chainsaw world has it's cheap throw-away models, and EVERY brand across the board has their cheap models. Often they are classified as "homeowner" models...

Anywho, you say you replaced the carb. Are you 100% certain it is the correct carb? And why did you replace it?? Saw carb issues usually can be easily remedied with a good cleaning and a kit. Metering lever height is crucial and if too high the saw will flood out bad pretty fast. You say it seems like it is flooding, is the plug soaked after attempting to start it?? I only know of a couple of models of saws that have completely non-adjustable jets other than the new Autotune and M-tronic models offered by Husky and Stihl respectively. All others have some level of adjustment, but are limited with little caps mandated by the EPA.

Also, what is the condition of the fuel line, fuel filter, tank vent and primer lines?? A problem with these is often blamed on an innocent carb.

Need a little more info from ya.

Most saws can be tuned up and repaired, even the cheap models. The concern is not putting more $$$ into it than it is worth.

Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately. :)

BarnBoy
05-10-2016, 09:39 PM
True that like many things, chainsaw world has it's cheap throw-away models, and EVERY brand across the board has their cheap models. Often they are classified as "homeowner" models...

Anywho, you say you replaced the carb. Are you 100% certain it is the correct carb? And why did you replace it?? Saw carb issues usually can be easily remedied with a good cleaning and a kit. Metering lever height is crucial and if too high the saw will flood out bad pretty fast. You say it seems like it is flooding, is the plug soaked after attempting to start it?? I only know of a couple of models of saws that have completely non-adjustable jets other than the new Autotune and M-tronic models offered by Husky and Stihl respectively. All others have some level of adjustment, but are limited with little caps mandated by the EPA.

Also, what is the condition of the fuel line, fuel filter, tank vent and primer lines?? A problem with these is often blamed on an innocent carb.

Need a little more info from ya.

Most saws can be tuned up and repaired, even the cheap models. The concern is not putting more $$$ into it than it is worth.

Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately. :)

Yes it is the correct carb as far as I can tell. It was listed to fit this model. I replaced it because this saw had been sitting it the dirt, and had dirt all over inside the carb. I tried but it wouldn't even sputter with the old carb. And I figured that since a new one was so cheap, I may as well get it instead of a kit. The carb was 11 bucks.

I adjusted the low and high mixture screw so it would run at lower rpms on idle. The plug is soaked after a few pulls.

I put brand new fuel lines in, new primer bulb and air filter.

Yeah, I don't want to put too much into it.

I would love a husky, but don't really have a use for it now. Just got this one for the odd trimming, etc. I dont do a lot of cutting, but there have been times when I wished I had a small saw. But even though I only occasionally use it, I don't want to rip my arm off trying to get it going. :)

Thanks for the response. Hope this helps.

cr480r
05-11-2016, 01:29 AM
Or you could buy a Husky 372 and an unlimited coil and send it to me for porting! LOL! I've been really into saws lately. :)

I have a stock 372... Am I missing out??? What is an unlimited coil? More rpm?

fabiodriven
05-11-2016, 05:33 AM
Yeah, I don't want to put too much into it.
.

Too late!!

atc007
05-11-2016, 07:14 AM
NEW plug,not a clean used one,new. If the same, adjust away on the carb.. Other than that, what Red rider said . I have had horrible,horrible results with my last 2 purchases from Stihl, they won't ever get a cent of my money again. But that is just me :)

bkm
05-11-2016, 08:00 AM
I was all hot and heavy ready to drop $$$$ on a new saw. I looked at Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar last year. I went to the local Stihl dealer and the guy there was honest and very cool. I told him my old saw is a 028 super wood boss I bought off of craigslist for $150. He asked what was wrong with it? I said it's a hard starting mother, but once warm it runs all day. He told he he'd bet the farm the air filter/choke mechanism was bad and for $30 my old saw would cut circles around any of the new "Junk" he has sitting on the shelf.

He even said if the filter cage doesn't fix it, bring it back and not only would he refund my $, he'd throw in a new carring case for any new saw I wanted to buy, but if I wanted a new saw that would cut like my old 028, I'd have to step up to the ms261 which is the only stihl he'd recommend to replace my old one. He said I wouldn't be impressed with a new saw that has the same engine size as my old one, I'd have to go bigger because the EPA has choked them down so bad, you need twice the new saw to cut like the older ones.

For $30 my saw will now start in 0 degree weather on two pulls and runs like a raped ape. I guess the moral of my story is, look around for a nice used older saw and even if you have to drop a few $ into it, they will out last and out perform a lot of the new junk that is out there today. I have $180 into my saw not counting chains and a new bar I put on it, but any saw will eventualy need those.

The old Husky Ranchers and Wood Boss Stihls are hard to beat for the $ these days.

John Tice
05-11-2016, 08:17 AM
Back to basics; fuel, compression & spark is all you need. Does it have enough compression & what does the factory recommend?
JT

Scootertrash
05-11-2016, 09:15 AM
I was all hot and heavy ready to drop $$$$ on a new saw. I looked at Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar last year. I went to the local Stihl dealer and the guy there was honest and very cool. I told him my old saw is a 028 super wood boss I bought off of craigslist for $150. He asked what was wrong with it? I said it's a hard starting mother, but once warm it runs all day. He told he he'd bet the farm the air filter/choke mechanism was bad and for $30 my old saw would cut circles around any of the new "Junk" he has sitting on the shelf.

He even said if the filter cage doesn't fix it, bring it back and not only would he refund my $, he'd throw in a new carring case for any new saw I wanted to buy, but if I wanted a new saw that would cut like my old 028, I'd have to step up to the ms261 which is the only stihl he'd recommend to replace my old one. He said I wouldn't be impressed with a new saw that has the same engine size as my old one, I'd have to go bigger because the EPA has choked them down so bad, you need twice the new saw to cut like the older ones.

For $30 my saw will now start in 0 degree weather on two pulls and runs like a raped ape. I guess the moral of my story is, look around for a nice used older saw and even if you have to drop a few $ into it, they will out last and out perform a lot of the new junk that is out there today. I have $180 into my saw not counting chains and a new bar I put on it, but any saw will eventualy need those.

The old Husky Ranchers and Wood Boss Stihls are hard to beat for the $ these days.

Every time I buy something used, I take it home and perform basic maintenance items: Check/clean/replace filters, change fluids, drain and flush the fuel tank to eliminate water and dirt (see below), remove and clean the carb and put on new fuel lines, if it runs when I buy it I spend the money for a quality carb kit and put it in. Put in a new plug even if it looks good. I put the old one in my spare parts box or the tool kit for that particular machine. Check/adjust/lube belts, chains, and cables. Hit every zerk with grease, if grease won't go in the zerk pull the zerk and clean or replace it

As a decently skilled non-professional mechanic I have found one constant thru all of my years of wrenching: 95% of people don't take care of their stuff maintenance-wise. They run it till it drops then can't figure out why it died, then b!tch about how much it costs to repair it. :rolleyes:

I don't want my toys to run, I want them to run great. ;)

ETA: As far as draining and flushing the fuel tank goes, condensation can build up over time even if your store your machines inside. Dust and dirt settles on top of fuel containers, especially when driving down dirt roads and such, and if you don't clean off the top of the can that dirt goes right into your tank. You'd be amazed at how much dirt and crap I've found in the bottom of fuel tanks, particularly on machines owned by people live in rural areas with dirt roads, field roads and driveways.

Scootertrash
05-11-2016, 09:17 AM
I have a stock 372... Am I missing out??? What is an unlimited coil? More rpm?

What he said! ^

What about other models?

fabiodriven
05-11-2016, 10:11 AM
Scooter those little Huskies we got are the tits eh? What model was that? Mine's been great anyway. I was told my Husky 576XP was a turd by someone who supposedly knows, but it's been great! Got that one new in 2012.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scootertrash
05-11-2016, 11:00 AM
If it was the refurb deal it's the 435 :beer

Mine was finicky for a bit, like it would run out of fuel, then it would start hard, run for a bit, rinse, repeat. Looking in the fuel tank it looked like the fuel line wasn't sitting in the fuel all the time, like it got deformed during manufacturing or something and was missing the in tank filter. I slipped a brass nut on the line to weight it down and installed the filter, but still the same symptoms. Pulled it apart last winter went thru the carb (it was clean) put everything back together and it's worked fine ever since. Never really saw anything wrong other than the line and missing filter :wondering

Nice little saw, gives me a break from my 460 with the 24" bar.

I also have an older 55 my dad gave me but the carb bolts stripped out of plastic carb flange, leaned out and toasted the motor, It'll get rebuilt tho. One of these days.........

hoosierlogger
05-11-2016, 05:59 PM
Poulan=pulling your ass off

bkm
05-11-2016, 06:18 PM
Poulan=pulling your ass off
I call them keep on a pullin

Thorpe
05-11-2016, 07:50 PM
I love my husky... needed a tiny bit of tuning when brand new, but now it starts 2nd pull always, and runs tits!

hoosierlogger
05-11-2016, 08:13 PM
Stihl pays my bills.

RIDE-RED 250r
05-11-2016, 08:39 PM
I have a stock 372... Am I missing out??? What is an unlimited coil? More rpm?

Yes, unlimited RPM..as far as the coil is concerned anyway...

Husky started putting limited (blue) coils in their saws a few years back. Most of the blue coil saws are limited to 13,300 rpm, the 346xp was limited at 14,100. The old coils (black) are unlimited. Guys that want to hop up their saws with porting, timing, and compression mods like the unlimited coils because what's the sense in building a saw that is mechanically capable of spooling 14.6K (like my 372XPW now does) if the limiter is stopping you at 13.1K.

Point of interest: All the the 300 series XP's and most 300 series non-Xp's share the same coil from the 346 all the way up to a 390. The black coil in my 372XPW is out of an older 359. If you can't find or don't want to run a black unlimited coil, alot of guys like the blue 346xp coils as they have a higher limit than all of the others at 14.1K.

Some people scoff at modding saws, but I enjoy the hell out of it. I did ALL of the work porting and modding my 372 and all said and done it is a beast. Next overhaul and mod project is a blown up 394XP I recently bartered my services for. I have learned a ton throughout the process, still tons more to learn though. But I have learned enough that I think I will be looking at porting my first 250r cylinder not too far down the road.

Fabs: Although I prefer my 372 over the 576 in that size, the 576 really is a good saw. Husky had alot of issues with their earlier 575 model and they made enough changes to address those issues that they changed the model to the 576. The 576 has proven to be a much better saw than the 575 was. The whole saw was an all new design with strato ports to keep emissions down, but the biggest issue the 575 suffered was with crank bearings that were very failure prone. Is your 576 an Autotune model??

RIDE-RED 250r
05-11-2016, 08:41 PM
If it was the refurb deal it's the 435 :beer

Mine was finicky for a bit, like it would run out of fuel, then it would start hard, run for a bit, rinse, repeat. Looking in the fuel tank it looked like the fuel line wasn't sitting in the fuel all the time, like it got deformed during manufacturing or something and was missing the in tank filter. I slipped a brass nut on the line to weight it down and installed the filter, but still the same symptoms. Pulled it apart last winter went thru the carb (it was clean) put everything back together and it's worked fine ever since. Never really saw anything wrong other than the line and missing filter :wondering

Nice little saw, gives me a break from my 460 with the 24" bar.

I also have an older 55 my dad gave me but the carb bolts stripped out of plastic carb flange, leaned out and toasted the motor, It'll get rebuilt tho. One of these days.........

Get it done!! Saws are remarkably easy and compared to trikes VERY inexpensive to rebuild!