85 ALT 125 - Won't Stay Running

[TripleOG]

When I first started working on this machine, it wouldn't start at all. Not even with starting fluid. I assumed the carb so I dismounted it and tore it apart, and it was in pretty bad shape. The float was surrounded by sludge and it was stuck in one spot.

I cleaned everthing with carb cleaner, shot all the jets out.. got everything looking real real nice. I emptied the gas tank of it's 4-5 year old fuel and filled it with fresh. The diaphram was leaking from a few holes, so I sealed them up.

I removed the air filter, the material just disintegrated in my fingers.. so I ordered a new one. Should be here tomorrow or the next day. I replaced the spark plug.

So, I put everything back together and give it a pull.. nothing. I put a little started fluid in the air box and it fires up, but dies instantly. I pull again and it starts, this time I get on the throttle and I keep it alive for 2-3 minutes. But, as soon as i let off the throttle.. it immediately dies.

I ordered a rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb. New jets, o-rings, gaskets ect.

Put everything back together. Same thing. Starts only with starting fluid and will run forever with throttle engaged but dies as soon as I let off.

Issues/Questions:

1. When the E Ring is put in the 2nd notch.. The throttle valve doesn't go all the way down. Is this normal? I know one side is supposed to be up a little bit. But I thought the other side was supposed to be all the way down. I've adjusted the E Ring to go into the first notch and it brought it down slightly.. but didn't close it all the way.

2. I believe I'm missing parts on my choke. When I remove the cap, There is no o-ring, spring or plunger. Also the cord is broke up by the push/pull mechanism. Could this have any issue on it not idling but revving fine.

3. There is a backfire every once and again when i left off the throttle. What would this be a symptom of?

Any help is certainly appreciated.

[Shep1970]

Welcome, i have alt 185 version. Check gas filter inside tank im sure its gummed up, the carbs clog easy on these. Fuel pump diafram, you may need to find one from different model that will work( one that has tank under seat) I know they sell new gas primers does yours work? Put new inline gas filter? Thats about all i got, good luck

[TripleOG]

Welcome, i have alt 185 version. Check gas filter inside tank im sure its gummed up, the carbs clog easy on these. Fuel pump diafram, you may need to find one from different model that will work( one that has tank under seat) I know they sell new gas primers does yours work? Put new inline gas filter? Thats about all i got, good luck

I've checked the gas filters and blew them out. Totally rebuilt the carb with new parts. As far as the fuel pump goes, the rebuild kit was $14 shipped and a brand new mikuni pump was $13 shipped.. so i just ordered a new one, should be here tomorrow. My gas primer had a few wholes in it and it would shoot out gas from the little hole if i pumped it. And it would leak out of it to when i got it running. But I've patched it up and since have had no leaks at all.

[Shep1970]

wish i could help more, i remember just finding carb kit for mine(185) was next to imposible, u need carb parts diagram to see if choke parts are all there. Theres a few vacume+two gas lines as i remember are they hooked up right. When u get pump lnstalled let us know results.

[TripleOG]

wish i could help more, i remember just finding carb kit for mine(185) was next to imposible, u need carb parts diagram to see if choke parts are all there. Theres a few vacume+two gas lines as i remember are they hooked up right. When u get pump lnstalled let us know results.

Don't know how long ago you looked but the rebuild kits for the LT185 are on both Amazon and eBay for around $30

And yes, I went over the diagram.. I'm missing the plunger, o-ring and spring for the choke on the carburetor. And the push/pull lever up by the odometer was broke too. I've ordered all of those mentioned pieces plus a new air filter and fuel pump. I don't think the choke is really the issue because I rode the thing for a few years with the choke in that condition.

You're right, there are 3 lines coming off the carb. Under the primer is the incoming gas line. On the opposite side is the drain line. But on the top, above the primer is another spot. On mine there is no line, just a nipple. When I look that part up it says AV Hose (I'm assuming Air Vent Hose?). On yours, is that connected to anything?

[Shep1970]

I will look in the morning ill take a pic if i can get a good one. Ill have to make sure theres no bee's nest under the top plastic where choke pull is (they like that spot)!!

[TripleOG]

I will look in the morning ill take a pic if i can get a good one. Ill have to make sure theres no bee's nest under the top plastic where choke pull is (they like that spot)!!

Ah yes, I had to deal with a wasp nest inside the exhaust pipe when i first started working on it.

But yes, pics would help a lot. I've only seen these carbs broken down and not actually installed.

[Shep1970]

Ok, I took some pics. Just remember ive had this bike Since new(yes red or orange over spray, block off plate on primer worked for me years ago, but not the right way to do things) YOUR on the right track... ran good when parked (i know everyone says that). 234698 234699 234700 234702 Thanks for tip on carb kit, in a couple years i'll challenge my boys to get it running. Hope this helps (yes nipple above primer that faces towards back of bike is vent) theres a line on mine thats 10 inches long, the end is just tucked in under airbox hose

[TripleOG]

Shep1970,

Thanks for the pics, they were quite helpful. I ordered the parts I need for the choke.. I also ordered a new fuel pump being as though I think mine is shot. I've yet to put it all back together though because I'm waiting on a new chain. I currently have the fuel tank and air box removed so I can get at the bolt on the opposite side of the front sprocket. As soon as the chain comes in tomorrow, I will put that on and reassemble the airbox and fuel tank.

Look forward to updating this post to let y'all know if I get it running. Thanks for all the help thus far.

[sledcrazyinCT]

Glad you got the missing choke parts on order...sounds like you are well under way getting this to run

[Zackmtr112]

I know everyone has their preference but I would sell your ALT for a ATC, KLT, or Yamaha. I just feel with the gas not being gravity fed with the tank above the motor, it just causes more problems and is more of a pain in the butt to deal with. That being said, I would buy a new carb, primer and everything between your tank and motor. You can find most parts for cheap online. You problem is %100 fuel system related.

[TripleOG]

sledcrazyinCT, I thought so too. Got everything installed and put back together. Primed it, tried first without the choke.. nothing. Then I choked it.. nothing. Gave it a few shots of starting fluid.. It started for a few seconds.. then died.

Rebuilt carb, rebuilt choke, new fuel pump, blew out all lines....

And i'm back to square one.

I just don't know what it could be anymore.

Anybody got any crazy ideas? I'm up for troubleshooting anything at this point.

Zackmtr112, I'm moving either late this year or early next year. So my plan for this was to get it back running and spend a few good months riding and hopefully teach my daughter how to ride on it. Then sell it off right before I move. If I was to get something else, it would most likely be a Yamaha quad. Possibly a Raptor or a Banshee.

And a new carb for this thing is $280, new primer is $50. For the price of those 2 alone I can buy one that runs.

Maybe it's the petcock. That the only thing that I couldn't take apart.

[sledcrazyinCT]

Have you verified compression with a gauge?

You have a fuel shut off on you rig?

[sledcrazyinCT]

seen these threads? Stock replacement carbs are expensive but this might help


http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/177659-What-am-I-missing-ALT-suzuki-125-carb

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/178626-Mikuni-or-Keihn-carb-needed?p=1402589#post1402589

[TripleOG]

Have you verified compression with a gauge?

You have a fuel shut off on you rig?

I do have a fuel shut off.. It was turned on when I was trying to start it.

I haven't verified my compression with a gauge. But I put my finger over the hole and cranking it blew it right off. Also it starts first try with starting fluid. I may be wrong but I don't think it's compression because of those 2 reasons.

I did see those posts by Hawaiirider. The first one looks like he had the idea to replace the stock carb with one of those generic ones. The second one looks like he was trying to sell that carb, which leads me to believe that he tried it and it didn't work.

I tried pm'ing him over a week ago to ask if that idea worked for him or not.. He didn't respond. It looks like he hasn't been active in months.

It was probably a good idea in theory.. But ended up not working when he tried. Guess we'll only find out if he responds. But I only see posts saying that he was "gonna" do it.. And not that he did it successfully.

[atc007]

Def clean your petcock! We have to have fuel from the tank to the carb. One missing link in that chain,and we will not have fuel :). Once you know you've got a carb full of gas,she should pop right off. You can easily hook up a IV bottle,some gas in a bottle to the carb, to verify. Also once you're running,make sure the vacuum line running from your intake to your fuel pump is UNDER the frame rail. A lot of guys back in the day after a carb clean would leave these over the frame,,,seat pinches it off= no fuel to carb. I would say make sure your valves are set at .003-.004,but if you're sure you have that much compression,it should def run. Also, the best way to truly clean a carb is compressed air,preferrably 175 psi,as opposed to 120. On that note, you can also take off the gas line to the carb and pressurize the tank,and fuel should flow right out at the carb.I suspect your gas is getting there,but your carb needs cleaned better. Assuming here,,,,,thank you for your service.

[TripleOG]

Well, once again i've removed the gas tank. This time I removed the petcock and cleaned it up with some gas and a toothbrush (it was all dirty from dried mud). After I cleaned it, I turned the lever from off, to on and then reserve.. each time blowing through the fuel inlet to make sure that none of them were blocked. None were. I also checked the lines and filters again.. everything looked ok.

I also took the carb off again and opened it up. It looked just as clean as the last time I put it back together. There is definitely gas getting to the carb because each time I take it off the trike, I unscrew the the drain plug and a significant amount pours out. I don't think I'm flooding because when I take out the spark plug, it's never dripping fuel.

Remember, I could get it started with starting fluid and keep it running if I stayed on the throttle.

What would having low compression do to the trike? Wouldn't it not start at all if the compression was too low??

What would off timing do to the trike? Also, would it not start at all if the timing was off?

What (besides a clogged pilot jet) would cause this motor to only run while staying on the throttle?

[350for350]

Just a wild suggestion, but have you checked your electrical components? It's possible that something is just barely good enough to run for a little while. Maybe recheck after it runs and then dies. Something could possibly be building resistance as it runs and gets warmer. I know it's a long shot, but you seem to have the fuel part pretty well covered. Maybe it's something else.

[TripleOG]

Just a wild suggestion, but have you checked your electrical components? It's possible that something is just barely good enough to run for a little while. Maybe recheck after it runs and then dies. Something could possibly be building resistance as it runs and gets warmer. I know it's a long shot, but you seem to have the fuel part pretty well covered. Maybe it's something else.

Honestly.. At this point, after everything that I've repaired, rebuilt and cleaned.. I'm thinking that it has to be a vacuum issue. I've only checked the lines from the fuel tank to the petcock and fuel pump.. to the carb. As soon as light hits, I'm going to check Every line on the whole machine.

There very well could be malfunctioning electrical components. Honestly, when I look at the wire.. all I see is a jumbled mess. For the first 12 or so years of storage, this thing was garage kept. But for the past 6 or so, it's been out in the element.. uncovered. I don't believe the light works anymore, so that may be a symptom of bad electrical components. I just wouldn't know where to begin with electrical diagnostics on this thing.

[atc007]

Pull your pullstart off. You need to remove the shifter too. Inspect the ignition, it is most likely very rusty in there. There is 1 coil you can access,pull that off and shine it all up .Make sure the wires are all fresh and not broken/cracked. A flywheel puller can be had for under $10 online. They are very specific,internal left hand threads. It would help immensely if you pulled it and cleaned the stator and flywheel up also. Adjust your valves to .003-.004 . Then you have done everything you can without buying a new exciter coil. Which I suspect is what you need. Pop your carb back off , You should be getting really good at it by now lol. With ether,carb cleaner,,anything with a straw,,, shoot cleaner through the pilot jet and verify it IS coming out inside the carb where it is supposed too. Also figure out the air holes in the back of the carb and spray through EACH one separately to verify each and every hole is unobstructed. Report back. Ignition is simple and you only need a $3 harbor freight ohm meter to diagnose a few wires.

[TripleOG]

Pull your pullstart off. You need to remove the shifter too. Inspect the ignition, it is most likely very rusty in there. There is 1 coil you can access,pull that off and shine it all up .Make sure the wires are all fresh and not broken/cracked. A flywheel puller can be had for under $10 online. They are very specific,internal left hand threads. It would help immensely if you pulled it and cleaned the stator and flywheel up also. Adjust your valves to .003-.004 . Then you have done everything you can without buying a new exciter coil. Which I suspect is what you need. Pop your carb back off , You should be getting really good at it by now lol. With ether,carb cleaner,,anything with a straw,,, shoot cleaner through the pilot jet and verify it IS coming out inside the carb where it is supposed too. Also figure out the air holes in the back of the carb and spray through EACH one separately to verify each and every hole is unobstructed. Report back. Ignition is simple and you only need a $3 harbor freight ohm meter to diagnose a few wires.

Funny, I did most of what you're suggesting.. last night. I tried taking the starter cover off.. for 2 reasons. 1, to inspect the condition underneath it. And 2, So I could use a drill to start it to save on my back and lungs. In the process, I ran into 2 more issues. 1, one of the bolts head broke off, and the body is still stuck inside. And 2, the gasket was disintegrated and in a pieces (i took a pic). What is the gasket for on the start assembly? Is it required to keep the vacuum lock?

I also, once again, took the carb off and opened it up. It looked just as clean as the last time I put it together. But I still shot carb cleaner through every port and passage and verified that it was coming out where it should be. But I gave the pilot jet extra attention.

The 2 things I am pretty intimidated by are adjusting the valves and timing. It's been 13 years since I've been in shop class in high school and I think I've forgot pretty much all of the little bit that I learned there. I just don't want to get to a point where I'm doing more damage than good.

I'm about to go out right now and see how immpossible it's going to be to get that starter assembly bolt out with the busted head. It was the last thing I did yesterday before the dark made me come inside so I couldn't get a good assessment. Hopefully it's not that bad.

234980

[Shep1970]

Just out of curiosity is there a compression release on head? Like the alt185234981 did it work?, when its closed it looks like this pic. Im 99% sure gasket is just to help keep water out (pull start).

[TripleOG]

Just out of curiosity is there a compression release on head? Like the alt185234981 did it work?, when its closed it looks like this pic. Im 99% sure gasket is just to help keep water out (pull start).

Nah I don't seem to have that on my head.

[atc007]

In behind the stator is a oil seal. That is as far out as the oil gets. No vacuum or anything like a 2 cycle. A little heat and vice grips for the bolt,a small cole chisel works wonders if you can get at it. If you pull the plug out and both valve caps off. Pull the engine over slowly,you will see as the exhaust valve closes, the intake opens. This is called valve overlap. The next time the piston comes up to tdc that is the compression stroke. Both valves should be closed and therefore the rocker arms loose. This is where you safely adjust your valves. Simply set till a .003 feeler gauge is snug or a .004 will barely fit in. That is it. Unless you hear the timing chain slapping when it is running, your timing should be good. But a tooth off would give you these symptoms.I Strongly think you have weak spark,very common on these,behind a dirty carb.

[TripleOG]

In behind the stator is a oil seal. That is as far out as the oil gets. No vacuum or anything like a 2 cycle. A little heat and vice grips for the bolt,a small cole chisel works wonders if you can get at it. If you pull the plug out and both valve caps off. Pull the engine over slowly,you will see as the exhaust valve closes, the intake opens. This is called valve overlap. The next time the piston comes up to tdc that is the compression stroke. Both valves should be closed and therefore the rocker arms loose. This is where you safely adjust your valves. Simply set till a .003 feeler gauge is snug or a .004 will barely fit in. That is it. Unless you hear the timing chain slapping when it is running, your timing should be good. But a tooth off would give you these symptoms.I Strongly think you have weak spark,very common on these,behind a dirty carb.

Ahh.. I should have read this sooner. I just took both valve caps off and adjusted. Didn't know about the compression stroke. I don't know if I have a feeler gauge or not. But I can pick one up if I don't, I gotta run to the hardware store anyway to get some replacement bolts for the one busted off in there. And I wish it was that simple for the bolt. It's recessed in ever so slightly. Might have to find a small ez out set or just try to drill it out. I'll see what they got at the hardware store, maybe ask the owners opinions.

[atc007]

As long as the rockers were both LOOSE, you are ok. If they were tight,no good, need redone. Hardware store will have the bolts. EZ outs are very bad. Welding a nut to it is best,but there are other good methods of getting them out. You need to find the ohms of the exciter/pulser coil and ohm it.

[TripleOG]

As long as the rockers were both LOOSE, you are ok. If they were tight,no good, need redone. Hardware store will have the bolts. EZ outs are very bad. Welding a nut to it is best,but there are other good methods of getting them out. You need to find the ohms of the exciter/pulser coil and ohm it.

The intake valve had no play at all.. so I bottomed it out and went a quarter turn out. The exhaust valve had slightly too much play, but I left it as is because it was impossible for me to get a wrench on the tightner washer. Was impossible for me to get a flat tip screw driver on the adjusting screw too.. had to use a small pair of needle nose. Looking in hindsight, they were probably adjusted perfect before I loosened up the intake. We'll find out when I redo it on the compression stroke. But I'm gonna run to the hardware store before I attempt it again.

[coolpool]

Slow down OG, simple things first.
ATC007 mentioned hooking up an external fuel source and gravity feeding your carb; did you do this or did I miss it. This will rule out if it's your carb or not. Blowing clear on your fuel lines from the tank proves your tank, petcock and lines are good. Although, you'll still need to prove your gas cap isn't plugged which happens a lot. Pull your plug and check for a snappy blue spark. If you have consistent spark, stop messing with your wiring for now. Lazy spark, I suggest you unscrew the plug boot and trim off a 1/4" of wire and screw it back on as a preventative measure. I believe those diaphragm type pumps use the crankcase pressure to activate them, confirm that line is free.

[danbur55]

If these are like the quads the vent for the tank is a line on top of the tank

[atc007]

He has a float bowl full of fresh fuel Cool, yes,it is a line off the top of the tank for vent Danbur. Good idea to trim the primary coil wire,always, .But these are known for a weak stator, enough spark to see, but not run right.Just verifying everything else is where it should be :)

[atc007]

I pulled this quick off the interweb. I have a Suzuki manual buried away somewhere. But here is what I found quick.


I received my manual today, it's not the full manual but a supplementary service manual for an 87 LT125 (I'll have to order another one). It shows compression @ 142-199 psi with a limit of 114 psi (i assume this is as low as it can be). It does not show a gap but does show the magneto coil resistance, the pickup coil (blue to grd) is 130-200 ohms. The primarty coil (black/red or brown/black coming off CDI to grd) is 350 to 450 ohms and lighting coil (yellow/red or white /red to grd.) is .2 to .8 ohms. Hpoefully someone will answer your gap question because I'll going to order new coils for mine.

[TripleOG]

coolpool, as atc007 said.. The fuel is getting to the carb, because every time I remove it i have to drain it. And every single gas and vacuum line has been blown clear and checked for leaks. They're all good. Although I'm not quite sure how to check if my gas cap is plugged. While I'm at the hardware store I'll be grabbing a drill/socket adapter which I don't currently have. With that I'll be able to check the spark better.

danbur55 these are exactly like the quads except 3 wheels instead of 4.

[TripleOG]

I pulled this quick off the interweb. I have a Suzuki manual buried away somewhere. But here is what I found quick.


I received my manual today, it's not the full manual but a supplementary service manual for an 87 LT125 (I'll have to order another one). It shows compression @ 142-199 psi with a limit of 114 psi (i assume this is as low as it can be). It does not show a gap but does show the magneto coil resistance, the pickup coil (blue to grd) is 130-200 ohms. The primarty coil (black/red or brown/black coming off CDI to grd) is 350 to 450 ohms and lighting coil (yellow/red or white /red to grd.) is .2 to .8 ohms. Hpoefully someone will answer your gap question because I'll going to order new coils for mine.

I appreciate the information.. I'll check the ohms next time I get a chance to get out there and work on the trike. I have a few manuals, if you'd like.. send me your email and i'll shoot them over to you. I also have the condensed manual but I have a full one for all the variants of the 125/185. Actually I think it might be too big for email so I can upload it to google drive and shoot you the link.

Unfortunately, it has been raining here the past few days from sun up to sun down and I haven't had an opportunity to do anything regarding the trike. Look forward to getting back out there and getting this thing running though.

[danbur55]

Might be a crazy thought but you stated "it will run all day as long as you have throttle open" try turning idle screw in while on the throttle then while running loosen off that screw to see if it will idle. Also might try moving needle clip to a lower slot. My thought is ma e things are shut off internally not allow the proper siphon effect to run. Good luck

[TripleOG]

Might be a crazy thought but you stated "it will run all day as long as you have throttle open" try turning idle screw in while on the throttle then while running loosen off that screw to see if it will idle. Also might try moving needle clip to a lower slot. My thought is ma e things are shut off internally not allow the proper siphon effect to run. Good luck

I have already tried with the idle as high as possible.. figuring if I could only get it to stay idling, i could always turn it down. No go. And about the needle, I already thought to change it to a lower setting but haven't yet. Reason is.. I did have this thing running good at one point, and the needle is in the same exact spot that it was when it was running good. It's right where the manual says it should be. So, I'm gonna try a few things first once I get a dry day (should be tomorrow).. check for spark, adjust valves to spec and measure ohms.. if none of that works.. then I will try lowering the throttle clip down 1 notch.

[TripleOG]

Got out late today.. Got all the parts that I needed from the hardware store, but didn't have a chance to work on the trike today. For that reason, I ended up getting a bucket of chem-dip and currently have the disassembled carb soaking in it as I type this. I'll let it soak for approximately 12-16 hours before blowing it out with the air compressor and shooting some more carb cleaner through the ports. Hopefully all these issues are from some blockage inside the carb that I'm not getting to and the chem-dip will break it loose. Time will tell.

More updates tomorrow.

[TripleOG]

So, I was out there today.. for the past few hours. Cleaned the carb one final time after soaking overnight in chem-dip. Put it all back together and hooked it up. Hooked all the lines back up. Readjusted the valves and checked for spark. Put a cap full of gas inside the spark plug port, topped it off with oil. Tightened everything back up. This time I'm using a drill to start it. I switch ignition to On, put the drill on and pull the trigger.. it just rotates and rotates. It gives me resistance but doesn't start. I pull the choke, doesn't start.. I put it in winter mode, it doesn't start. I tried every combination except for putting starter fluid in it. It just doesn't want to start now.

I'm at the point where I either want to take it to a shop or sell it and try to recoup at least half of the money I've put in to it recently to try to get it started. It's a shame because thing thing used to fire up on the first pull, idle and run great. Then it would run but wouldn't idle, now I can't even get it started.

I really don't know what else it could be.

[TripleOG]

So I've been working on this thing a little over 2 weeks.. Here is my update.

I've got some good news and I've got some bad. The good news is that we've (I got my pop over here with a degree in engines for an extra set of eyes) ruled out Compression, Spark and Vacuum. The bad news is that it still won't idle. I tried putting a cap full of gas into the spark plug port and it wouldn't fire. I tried one last ditch effort with starter fluid in the air box.. It started up on the first pull. It ran until when we believe the starter fluids assistance wore off. So, at this time I am going to strike the earlier comment I made about it running forever once started. I now believe that I didn't wait long enough to see if it would die.

Moving on from here.. I am going to assume 100% that the Carb is at fault. As far as the carb goes, I've rebuilt it; shot all the ports out; let it soak overnight in chem-dip; shot it out again; and shot it out again. I believe at this point that something inside is malfunctioning or still clogged up. My question is.. Can anyone that's very familiar with this style or similar carbs (vacuum fed), shed some light on what port or ports could be causing me this issue?

From this point, I am going to once again dismount the carb and take it apart. I am going to let it soak in chem-dip once again overnight. Tomorrow I'll re-examine it again and I would love if someone could elighten me on any key components or ports that would be causing trouble like this. I usually give all ports a brief, thorough brushing with a toothbrush, but I'd like to know if I should be giving a single one more attention. Also, I believe I read either on this forum or one other that I take part in.. that someone removed the ball and retainer clip that's inside the primer and leads to inside the carb. I believe he said his wouldn't start at all or wouldn't run right.. so not exactly the same issue I'm having. Just wanted to know if anyone has heard or tried that method and had success with it.

[TripleOG]

It's ALIVE!!

I finally got this beast to start and idle on it's own. After letting the carb soak for 2 more days in chem-dip.. I once again blew all the ports out with compressed air. Took one final reading on the float (since I had it apart) and it was off by 4mm. So I got it back to spec. Put everything back together, said a little prayer.. and pull it a few times. Now she starts right up on the first try and purrrs.

Along with the good, must come the bad. So now I have a new issue. As I said before.. It starts on first pull and idles good, just to make sure i walked away from it for about 10 good minutes. Never even stuttered. The problem I'm having now is that whenever I give it throttle, she starts bogging down and stuttering. If I hold the throttle down, after a few seconds it will just die.

So my issues have completely reverse. Before I couldn't get it to idle, now I can't get it to throttle.

[TripleOG]

FIXED!!

This was my first time troubleshooting Any ATV like this. And I must say, I've learned a lot.

I don't know exactly what I did to fix it, but I can tell you what few things I did.. And I know that one of them fixed the issue.

I dismounted the carb once again. For some reason, I was suspecting one of the parts from the rebuild kit. And sure enough, when I put the pilot jets side by side.. they were different sizes. The OEM pilot jet was slightly smaller with slightly bigger holes.. and the air screw was also slightly smaller (the OEM screw). Everything else was exactly the same size so I left all the new components in. I put the OEM pilot jet and air screw back in. Also, before putiing the carb back together.. I removed the ball and pin in between the primer and carb itself. I read on this forum or another, that someone was having a similar issue (but not exactly the same as mine) and doing this fixed it. After that, I put the carb back together and remounted it back on the trike. After I pulled a few times, it fired right up. I let it idle for a few minutes and started to give it some gas.. it didn't die or even sound like it wanted to. She's back. I put the back fender and seat back on and took a few laps around the block. This it the first time this thing has moved on it's own power it probably 18 years.

I'd like to thank everyone that helped me along the way by steering me in the right direction and giving their 2 cents. It's much appreciated.

[Shep1970]

Great!!! They are fun bikes, if you havent yet change that oil and filter. I ended up putting a block off plate on my primer years ago,(oneway valve ball seized). It just takes a couple extra pulls to get gas up there. Again whichever issue it had, congrats on figuring it out.(probably jets or air screw).

[TripleOG]

Great!!! They are fun bikes, if you havent yet change that oil and filter. I ended up putting a block off plate on my primer years ago,(oneway valve ball seized). It just takes a couple extra pulls to get gas up there. Again whichever issue it had, congrats on figuring it out.(probably jets or air screw).

I'd really like to know the process of the block off plate, in case I decide to do that in the near future.

[Shep1970]

I think all i did was remove primer-
Traced outline onto piece of 1/8 aluminum plate
Drilled holes into new solid plate
Used the factory o-ring, i think one of the pics on first page shows it
Never had a leak, but the correct parts could always put back on
Cant remember but the little ball may still be in there????? (Long time ago)
Todays gas(ethenol) i think would destroy that thin rubber diafram in primer in no time.

[TripleOG]

So, we finally got some good weather this week.. The past few days I've been out ripping up the streets and trails. Today, at the end of my ride.. I turned around and noticed a lot of blue smoke. This wasn't there when I first started the trike and after revving it a little bit. I first noticed it after about 45min-1hr of riding. I heard there are 3 different colors of smoke. Black, white and blue. And each one is caused by something different. But I couldn't find a definitive answer for the blue smoke.

Has anyone experienced this issue and fixed it or at least figured out what it was?