ALT 125 - LED Upgrade

[TripleOG]

I have an 85 Suzuki ALT125 that I just got running recently after sitting for over 18 years. For the first 12 years that I owned it, it was garage kept. Unfortunately, for the past 6 years though.. it's been sitting out in the element, uncovered.

It took me a little bit to get this thing running again, the thread can be found here.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/181017-85-ALT-125-Won-t-Stay-Running

The last time I had this thing running, the front and rear lights were working just fine. But, since I've recently fixed it.. I noticed that the lights were no longer working. I could just try replacing the bulb yes, but they are not OEM bulbs and housings. And although they always lead my way, from what I remember they were never that bright. So, I figure I'd just rather rip out the old housings and replace with LED's on the front and back.. If it's possible.

Has anyone attempted this and had any luck?

There is no battery on the ALT125. The only information I can find about the lighting is in the manual for the ALT185, and that is that it's 12v 35w (front) and 12v 5w (rear).

Does this mean that I can replace it with Anything with those specs?
Would I need any special resistors when upgrading to LED?

[TwiZ]

Dont know much about those,but most,not all but most stators put out ac voltage. I have heard of people just hookin em up like trailprotrailpro sayin and they have worked,but it greatly cuts down the life of the light. If it is regulated or if it has something that converts to dc you may be able to. Its not difficult nor expensive to put a battery and a regulator in,i did it fairly easy on my 200x.235415 235416

[TwiZ]

Not sure how or why the little tires cut off part of what i wrote...wasnt any cuss words or anything. How many wires come out of your stator? If you can figure out which ones are for the lites should be fairly easy to put a regulator in. If ya dont wanna go thru all that i would use a lite as close to stock as you can find,like i said ive seen em hooked right up n work,but dont last,and have seen em smoke first try

[f76]

You will need to have a floating ground come out of the stator in order to hook up a regulator/rectifier to properly convert the unregulated ac voltage coming out of your stator into regulated 12v dc. You will also need a battery or large capacitor.

[TripleOG]

If I installed a small battery, would it charge itself?; or would I need to hook it to a battery tender when not in use?

[f76]

Describe how you "installed" a small battery.

[TwiZ]

The way i did it was seperat all the grounds from the lighting system and used the ground from the battery. On my X there is two wires coming off stators,one for ignition,one for lights. Ran the one for lights into input of rectifier/regulator,ground to battery,all of light ground to the battery. Cannot be grounded anywhere on the frame,battery only and mine charges battery and runs my leds like a champ. Run output of reg/rec to battery positive. And no a battery will not charge itself

[TwiZ]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-4Pin-Voltage-Rectifier-Regulator-for-70cc-90cc-110cc-125cc-Bike-ATV-Buggy-/331655272950?hash=item4d3831d9f6 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-6inch-18W-LED-Work-Light-Bar-4WD-Spot-Beam-Offroad-Driving-Fog-Lamp-ATV-SUV-/301682996347?hash=item463db5347b I was able to stack both lights and fit them in the stock headlight frame

[TripleOG]

The way i did it was seperat all the grounds from the lighting system and used the ground from the battery. On my X there is two wires coming off stators,one for ignition,one for lights. Ran the one for lights into input of rectifier/regulator,ground to battery,all of light ground to the battery. Cannot be grounded anywhere on the frame,battery only and mine charges battery and runs my leds like a champ. Run output of reg/rec to battery positive. And no a battery will not charge itself

I didn't actually mean if the battery would charge itself.. I was just asking if you had to plug it into a charger when you were done riding. So you're saying the stator will keep the battery charged?

[TwiZ]

Yep the stator charges the battery thru the regulator.I would NOT hook the stator straight to the battery,because its AC voltage. I can turn lights on with machine off and put meter on battery and voltage drops due to draw. Start it up and voltage rises. We go on alot of night rides for 3-5 hours at a time and works perfectly. I know with my situation it was necessary to seperate all the grounds for the lights,which calls for a good looking over the wire harness to insure there isnt any branched off and connected to frame anywhere. I got the smallest battery i could find for a atv at wallyworld,built a battery box and tucked it under the rear fender.Heck i even mounted a cigarette lighter so i can light my nasty cigs without stoppin...lol.. One of the best things i have done was switchin the lights to 12v DC led...no more dim and a little less dim when nite riding

[TripleOG]

Yep the stator charges the battery thru the regulator.I would NOT hook the stator straight to the battery,because its AC voltage. I can turn lights on with machine off and put meter on battery and voltage drops due to draw. Start it up and voltage rises. We go on alot of night rides for 3-5 hours at a time and works perfectly. I know with my situation it was necessary to seperate all the grounds for the lights,which calls for a good looking over the wire harness to insure there isnt any branched off and connected to frame anywhere. I got the smallest battery i could find for a atv at wallyworld,built a battery box and tucked it under the rear fender.Heck i even mounted a cigarette lighter so i can light my nasty cigs without stoppin...lol.. One of the best things i have done was switchin the lights to 12v DC led...no more dim and a little less dim when nite riding

Ok So, I didn't get a chance to look at the electrical today. I was out enjoying the fruits of this past months labor. I was out riding for the past few hours. I didn't want to come in but it was getting dark and I have no working light.

I think I'm going to go the battery route if it can be done. I will look at it tomorrow morning.

So, let's say it can be setup that way. I'd like to be prepared for everything I would need. I have no eBay account so I'll be getting everything either Amazon Prime or Walmart. Could you help me put a shopping list together? I'd also like a handlebar switch in the mix of all this. I think I should just cut the OEM wires and put all new and start from sctrach.

Here is the OEM wiring diagram.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85739&cid=18&stc=1

I'll probably grab this for a simple switch solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Universal-Handlebar-Motorbike-Electrical/dp/B0112U5TWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475710978&sr=8-1&keywords=handlebar+light+switch&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

This for the front light..
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Lights-Bright-Warranty/dp/B00AZPP0Y6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475716312&sr=1-11&keywords=nilight+led+light+bar

For the back light..
https://www.amazon.com/Clearance-Marker-Camper-Trailer-Bracket/dp/B00RIIQVFU/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1475716722&sr=8-48&keywords=red+led+marker+light

I'm not exactly sure of what I need for a battery and voltage regulator / rectifier.

If you know of some better hardware than the links I listed above for around the same price point.. list them.

[f76]

The way i did it was seperat all the grounds from the lighting system and used the ground from the battery. On my X there is two wires coming off stators,one for ignition,one for lights. Ran the one for lights into input of rectifier/regulator,ground to battery,all of light ground to the battery. Cannot be grounded anywhere on the frame,battery only and mine charges battery and runs my leds like a champ. Run output of reg/rec to battery positive. And no a battery will not charge itself
What kind of rectifier are you running? With only a single wire coming out of the stator for lights, what are you using for the other input?

[TwiZ]

What kind of rectifier are you running? With only a single wire coming out of the stator for lights, what are you using for the other input?. I used a 4 prong reg/rec from those chinese things(pics and links in other posts) The R/W from stator goes to the input of reg,one goes to battery pos(output of rec),one goes to lights,and very important that the ground of rectifier goes to negitive of battery, and all the lights go to ground of battery and not to frame anywhere. Ive been running this setup for close to a year. 235457

[TwiZ]

Ok So, I didn't get a chance to look at the electrical today. I was out enjoying the fruits of this past months labor. I was out riding for the past few hours. I didn't want to come in but it was getting dark and I have no working light.

I think I'm going to go the battery route if it can be done. I will look at it tomorrow morning.

So, let's say it can be setup that way. I'd like to be prepared for everything I would need. I have no eBay account so I'll be getting everything either Amazon Prime or Walmart. Could you help me put a shopping list together? I'd also like a handlebar switch in the mix of all this. I think I should just cut the OEM wires and put all new and start from sctrach.

Here is the OEM wiring diagram.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85739&cid=18&stc=1

I'll probably grab this for a simple switch solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Universal-Handlebar-Motorbike-Electrical/dp/B0112U5TWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475710978&sr=8-1&keywords=handlebar+light+switch&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

This for the front light..
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Lights-Bright-Warranty/dp/B00AZPP0Y6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475716312&sr=1-11&keywords=nilight+led+light+bar

For the back light..
https://www.amazon.com/Clearance-Marker-Camper-Trailer-Bracket/dp/B00RIIQVFU/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1475716722&sr=8-48&keywords=red+led+marker+light

I'm not exactly sure of what I need for a battery and voltage regulator / rectifier.

If you know of some better hardware than the links I listed above for around the same price point.. list them. I sent you a link for the reg/rec. 4 prong reg. Wire diagram above. You can do this without buying a switch. Your R/W coming out of stator goes to input of reg,then run wire from reg ouput to pos of battery. Output to lights goes to the other end of the R/W you cut, Hook pos of lights to your yellows going to lights. Cut your grounds and hook a new wire to grounds going to lights ensuring they are not grounded to any where else. Take your new ground and run it to the ground on rec and neg of battery. Done. It is imperitive that your ground isnt going to the ground of bike,frame anywhere but the negitive of your battery.

[TwiZ]

Here ya go.... https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Scooter-50-110cc/dp/B01BS1C91C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475721983&sr=1-1&keywords=4+prong+regulator+rectifier+150cc Then all ya need is some wire heat shrink crimp connectors,heat shrink female spade connectors,wire loom(cheap at wally world) elec.tape and pull ties, oh and a inline fuse too, iused two,one for input and one going to lights

[TripleOG]

. I used a 4 prong reg/rec from those chinese things(pics and links in other posts) The R/W from stator goes to the input of reg,one goes to battery pos(output of rec),one goes to lights,and very important that the ground of rectifier goes to negitive of battery, and all the lights go to ground of battery and not to frame anywhere. Ive been running this setup for close to a year. 235457

How many watts is a setup like this capable of do you know?

[TwiZ]

Whatever your stator puts out. I wouldnt run any higher than what stock lights were. You could get a stator rewound and go ape trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro crazy...but stay within your stator output

[TripleOG]

Whatever your stator puts out. I wouldnt run any higher than what stock lights were. You could get a stator rewound and go ape trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro crazy...but stay within your stator output

Ok I understand everything you posted. I'll be doing this. Thanks.

2 questions though. How did you make the battery mount? And if you had to do it all over again, would you do it any differently?

2nd is why would I want to run this system without a switch. I'd want to be able to ride blacked out if I ever needed to. Incognito.

[TwiZ]

Dont you have a headlight switch? R/W cut,engine side goes to input of rec,then the output from rec for the lights,(i believe top right of reg) to the other end of R/W you cut. BAM hooked to stock switch

[TwiZ]

If you want if you can give me a bit i can make you a scematic and post it up

[TripleOG]

If you want if you can give me a bit i can make you a scematic and post it up

The headlight, tail light and current switch are all aftermarket. That's why I suggested that I would just cut at the wire coming from the stator and rip All the old wiring off the bike. And start from scratch. I would gladly accept your wiring scematic, just draw it out as if there are no light at all currently on the bike, because I think that's the route I'm going to take.

Edit: The switch is ghetto too. It's shoved under the frame cover up by the choke. I'd rather it up on the handle bars so I can just flick my thumb.

[TwiZ]

Ok give me a few minutes

[TwiZ]

235459. Here ya go

[TripleOG]

235459. Here ya go

Nice.. I'm gonna use this. Now I just gotta find the right hardware I'm gonna use and try to figure out how to build a battery box

[TwiZ]

Thats easy. Can even find one off a lawn mower or the plastic box type at wally world, or one off a different machine. I just built mine,looks almost factory

[Black_Widow]

This is a great how-to thread.... I'm thinking i might convert my 110 lighting just so that they aren't dim when I idle. Thanks!

[RubberSalt]

For a modern, efficient DC set up to run the LEDs on a stable set up. Try this out.

1. Voltage regulator - Regulate to 12 volts - yamaha blaster has one
2. Bridge recitifier - converts AC to DC - 50 amp bridge with a bolt hole to mount from - $3
3. Super capacitor - way better than a battery if your not requiring a starter. Require to smooth out the power and get rid of flicker, also keeps lights at an even level. - $20. Lithium ion, Lead acid, and all other batteries can't compete with efficiency of these. They also win in the longevity department. Drain to 0 volts and back up again a few hundred thousand times. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold, they work. They have draw backs - low storage capacity, self drain over a week. Neither are problems if you have no battery. If you have a stator, you can spend more cash and get caps that will start your ride. I've built a massive bank to start my old mustang. Never need to replace the batter again, but if it sits for more than 7 days... it will need a charge (takes about 3 minutes for the one I built)
4. Lights


Here's a crude schematic I made some time ago.
235931

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-88-02-YAMAHA-BLASTER-YFS-200-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-V-/191981484946?hash=item2cb2fcfb92:g:E1wAAOSwYIxX6s6 W&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-Farad-6x8F-Ultracapacitor-Module-KIT-Battery-Eliminator-Car-Audio-Solar-/371459218524?hash=item567cb1dc5c:g:fxMAAOSwo6lWFnG w

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridge-Rectifier-1ph-50A-1000V-50-Amp-Metal-Case-1000-volt-50A-Diode-1pc-US-Sell-/272057457431?hash=item3f57e35b17:g:cD8AAOSwBahVbRk X

[TwiZ]

Ive thought of this myself. How many starts can you get with say your mustang before the capacitors need re juiced? When they are low how are you recharging them? Im assuming the alternator does this while its running. How long can you keep your lights on without engine running and be concerned that it wouldnt crank the starter?This has my intrest especially for my jeep with a wench and running two yellow top optima batteries(could you use them to weld with like i can with two batteries for emergency repairs?)Sometime when we night ride we stop n take a break for 10-15 min and ill leave my lights on while engine is off. I know the little atv battery i have will run my led lights for quite a long time. I know with the $5 regulator/rectifier i have no flicker or any dimming or anything noticable that i can see. A buddy on a night ride required a trail repair and i had them on for well over an hour without engine running and when i started my X up the lights didnt seem to get any brighter. I was surprised because i thought it would have drained that little battery more and thought i would have seen them get brighter when engine started. My experience with capacitors is limited to my work with hvac equipment. The start capacitors for electric motors and a/c compressors and the ones ive used for my subwoofer amp. I know they can hold a charge and can pack quite a whollop of power. How well does the caps you show hold up to harsh conditions?This has my intrest because i was goint to put the exact same setup i have on my X on my 200s,but would consider the capacitor route.