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MorganRR52
11-08-2016, 01:20 PM
Okay on my Honda 250 ES I have used a voltmeter to recheck everything and it looks like I'm getting a ground of 0.04 and I striped the wires and I just can't seem to find where I'm getting a bad ground by researching 0.04 is a bad ground or poor one at least they say you want to aim around the 3.2 range if you have any ideas please let me know I need some help

edizzle89
11-08-2016, 01:32 PM
how are you checking ground? what do you have your multimeter set on and where are you putting the to test leads?

MorganRR52
11-08-2016, 01:36 PM
Haha agreed I am placing my positive tester into the negative slot on the portion that goes into the CDI it is set at 200 ohms and placing the negative tester up against the ground that I have on the body

MorganRR52
11-08-2016, 01:38 PM
I hope that makes sense

rocks
11-08-2016, 09:00 PM
I can't understand what you are trying to achieve. Why are you testing the ground? What's wrong with your wheeler?

MorganRR52
11-08-2016, 11:01 PM
Ok i can see where it could be confusing I was given this 250es when I first started working on it had a spark kinda weak one but it was there after working on a few other things on the bike such as oil change carb cleaning and cleaning the gas tank I tried to start it and now there is no spark whatsoever so I tested everything stator is good coil is good cdi is good new spark plug I relocated the ground on the frame I ground down to bare metal I have checked all of the wires and can't seem to see any that are frayed or broken etc. So I order a manual and it is in the mail. So my problem is after all these checks I still have no spark and I am stuck I would love some help I know I sound like an idiot but this is my first atc rebuild so I am not too familiar with them and reading reviews they are known for having grounding issue sorry for the paragraph

jeswinehart
11-08-2016, 11:15 PM
Nah,,,, we definitely all relate to eletrical issues Morgan. They are often hard to track down
,,, sometimes being a combination of connections having corrosion.
Like perhaps the on/off switch on left handle bar control or neutral / reverse ground wires on lower left of engine ( behind little metal cover).
Oh yeah,,,, couple of fuses under head light inside the square black plastic box,,, one of them is a ignition fuse I beleive with other being to the accessory plug on right side of fork/triple tree area.

MorganRR52
11-08-2016, 11:22 PM
Well I do feel a little better now I did look at both fuses under the headlight and they are not blown I looked at the nuteral and reverse wires are by where your right foot would be and they look to be fine I did consider the on off switch but I am not sure how to fully rule that is I mean the rest of the switch works like the lights high and low beems any other suggestions

jeswinehart
11-09-2016, 12:00 AM
You are doing a pretty good elimination of probably what's not the problem imo.
Your manual will have a good trouble shooting section in it starting with just like you been doing Morgan,,, simplest first.
In it it will have much more in depth testing of stuff as you continue down the list.
To relate to what thier terminology is spoken you will need one of the anolog type multi testers,,,, the ones with the needle that swings left to right.
If/when (and darn sure it don't get too) testing the cdi you are definitely on your own. Multiple variations of interpretation there. If I strongly suspect a cdi problem I replace with know working one.
If not a grounding problem (most common problem),,, the excite coil inside flywheel would be suspect imo + exsperiance. With manual info you will be able to test that rather easily.

edizzle89
11-09-2016, 10:15 AM
Haha agreed I am placing my positive tester into the negative slot on the portion that goes into the CDI it is set at 200 ohms and placing the negative tester up against the ground that I have on the body

so you have one lead on the negative wire on the connector for the CDI and the other lead on a body ground, is that correct?

if that is the case, unless there's something else in that circuit, you would want the least amount of resistance which it seems like you are getting with 0.04 ohms

rocks
11-09-2016, 05:16 PM
Do you have electric starter?
That way it's easy to test the exciter coil.
I believe it's AC not DC.

Check your ignition coil.
Check your pickup coil
Test your CDI unit. There is a way in how to check the resistance

Are you grounding the spark plug to the engine when you do the spark test?

Rob Canadian
11-09-2016, 08:37 PM
http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/


Link to the online manuals while you wait for your copy. :)

MorganRR52
11-09-2016, 09:25 PM
Yes I am doing those steps you just described I was under the impression you want it higher then that

MorganRR52
11-09-2016, 09:33 PM
First it is an electric stator I did check place the spark plug to the frame and still no spark I tested the spark I tested the coil by the same process of placing the positive lead into the make part that inserts into the cdi i will give you all my results and let me know if I am missing something or doing it wrong ignition coil 2.4 pulse generator 327 nuteral light/stator on I got 83.9 off 11.5 on/off 2.4/1.3 stator 121.5 all in oms

MorganRR52
11-15-2016, 10:01 AM
I apologize about being all over the place but I am back in line so I just came across this hopefully they are connected I found that even when the bike is in great the nuteral light stays on any advice please help

Shep1970
11-15-2016, 04:01 PM
Hello, i dont do electrical(dont like it) but my thought would be:
Neutral reverse switch inside case stopped working at some point and someone bypassed it?
Now maybe years later their fix has come apart(wires)?
Now you come along and put everything in its place.
Is there an inside case (switch)?
Internal switch that tells cdi to fire or not (neutral,or in gear) think i'd test that first. Thats all i got. Just trying to help
Neutral light on when in gear would tell me switch.