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Woodrow03
12-28-2016, 10:13 AM
Bought a 1984 ATC 110 last summer. Blue in color. It's in awesome shape.

Drove from MN to mo to pick it up.


Changed the oil last night.

As I was backing the oil plug out I could feel constant tension.

It appears I pulled a helicoil out. Or heavy threads. Not sure. It stayed in tact and I was able to unthread it so that's what makes me think it is a helicoil.


Put bolt back in. It threads but won't snug up....

Small oil leak out of bolt this morning.


What do I do?

Drill and re-tap for the next size up?

Put in size a up oil plug?

Put in another helicoil?

Teflon tape?

Give me ideas!

Woodrow03
12-28-2016, 10:17 AM
238059238059

yaegerb
12-28-2016, 11:45 AM
Nice trike! Yes, likely those were helicoil that you pulled out. You can try to helicoil again or I would recommend using a time sert to fix.

barnett468
12-28-2016, 01:22 PM
I cant see the photo, however, if you put a magnet on the threads that came out and it sticks, it is steel which means it is a helicoil . If the threads in the case still look good, the safest thing would be to put another helicoil back in it with a new plug because you will need to drill and tap the hole to change it to a time sert which will likely get some metal in the engine plus it will cost a lot more money . Although the amount of metal you may get in there may not be very much, it is still safer to not take any chances if there is another easy, simple, and safe option . Also, since the hole has already been made larger if it is a helicoil, you will likely need to use what is called a "big sert" instead of a standard time sert in order to use the stock size drain plug . This is just a time sert with a thicker wall than the stock time serts have.



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Woodrow03
12-29-2016, 07:03 AM
Not a helicoil

238093238093

Woodrow03
12-29-2016, 07:06 AM
What about putting a washer on and RTV the bolt in and then use a hand pump on the top end to do the oil change?

I only ask this because I don't want to do more damage with a coil or settings.

This machine is a simple gravel road and groomed trail rider

Woodrow03
12-29-2016, 07:08 AM
http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u524/Woodrow03/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160724_155336_zpsulnqmkse.jpg (http://s1320.photobucket.com/user/Woodrow03/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160724_155336_zpsulnqmkse.jpg.html)

shortline10
12-29-2016, 07:31 AM
You can buy a repair kit which taps the threads out one millimeter . Yours is probably 12mm so you need a kit that taps it out to 13mm . The kits are all over eBay .

barnett468
12-29-2016, 09:25 AM
Not a helicoil

238093238093


Sure looks like it could be one in the photo . So you tested it and it is aluminum?



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greenhaze20
12-29-2016, 10:43 AM
Best way would be to get a bigger size heli coil so you could still use the drain bolt. You could also get what is known as a boiler plug which you could get at home depot it is a rubber plug with a nut or wing nut on the outside. When you place it in the hole you then turn the bolt or wing nut and it expands in the hole providing a seal. This is a half ass way of solving the issue but just to give you some options.

Woodrow03
12-29-2016, 10:45 AM
Yup. Magnet would not pick it up. Unless helicoil comes in aluminum?

That's why I'm apprehensive to re-tap.

If it had a helicoil installed at some point I don't want to keep cutting the sump bigger

Thoughts?

barnett468
12-29-2016, 12:19 PM
Yup. Magnet would not pick it up. Unless helicoil comes in aluminum?

That's why I'm apprehensive to re-tap.

If it had a helicoil installed at some point I don't want to keep cutting the sump bigger

Thoughts?

Here is a summation of your most viable options:

1. Drill and tap and install a helicoil and larger drain bolt.
2. Drill and tap and install a time sert.
3. Drill and tap and install a big sert.
4. Weld the hold and drill and tap for a helicoil.
5. Weld the hole and drill and tap for a time sert.
6. Disassemble the engine so you can clean out the metal that will get inside then do any of the above.
7. Install an expandable rubber plug in the existing hole and it may or may not leak . Oreilly's Auto and some other auto parts stores carry them and so does Grainger and Dorman and Mc,aster Carr etc.

.................................https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRs8LgKqXniq-t2KtwRC3Kk4bVDzkpqnNUK8Jzwp0I2NS1KmnOK



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yaegerb
12-29-2016, 02:36 PM
As I already stated and IMO, the proper way is to time sert back to the original size. Is it hard? Yes. Is it the most quality fix, you bet.

shortline10
12-29-2016, 04:17 PM
I do a lot of these drain plug repairs threw my shop and this is the easiest and works very good .
12m to 13m is the kit needed . The rubber plug will work but their a pain in the rear to get back out once installed .

NeverLift
12-29-2016, 08:45 PM
I do a lot of these drain plug repairs threw my shop and this is the easiest and works very good .
12m to 13m is the kit needed . The rubber plug will work but their a pain in the rear to get back out once installed .
Who makes this kit? Where did you get it? I'd like to get one.

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Rob Canadian
12-29-2016, 09:00 PM
I do a lot of these drain plug repairs threw my shop and this is the easiest and works very good .
12m to 13m is the kit needed . The rubber plug will work but their a pain in the rear to get back out once installed .

Neat kit. I have used Time Serts back in the day. Worked for a race shop for 5 years (cars). We had a complete kit of time serts. Never liked the heli coil. But that's me.

shortline10
12-30-2016, 01:59 AM
The kits are all over eBay . The most common size for atvs is the M13 , I use a lot of them .
Here is a good deal on eBay .





Who makes this kit? Where did you get it? I'd like to get one.

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sawgrass
12-30-2016, 04:07 PM
Here is the same kit on eBay that shortline10 mentioned but about $12.00 less. $28.02 includes shipping. Ordering one today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24PC-OIL-PAN-THREAD-REPAIR-KIT-SET-SUMP-DRAIN-PLUG-REPAIR-KIT-SET-M13-15-17-20-/231814435135?hash=item35f937913f:g:uFAAAOSwL7VWmGX b&item=231814435135&vxp=mtr

Rick

Woodrow03
12-30-2016, 11:30 PM
Update.....

After letting the machine drain dry. I cleaned the sump with q-tips and break cleaner. Was about to do a retap however we noticed on the top side of the sump there is a pea size piece missing.

Went the RTV route until spring time to weld in an aluminum rod and new tap

barnett468
12-31-2016, 12:22 AM
As I was backing the oil plug out I could feel constant tension.

It appears I pulled a helicoil out. Or heavy threads. Not sure. It stayed in tact and I was able to unthread it so that's what makes me think it is a helicoil.

Put bolt back in. It threads but won't snug up....


Update..... After letting the machine drain dry. I cleaned the sump with q-tips and break cleaner. Was about to do a retap however we noticed on the top side of the sump there is a pea size piece missing.

Went the RTV route until spring time to weld in an aluminum rod and new tap

It will likely leak and your drain plug might fall out while riding it . The rubber expansion plug I posted is likely a safer bet and less likely to leak if properly installed.

You MUST disassemble the engine if you plan to weld, drill, and re-tap it . Also, If you disassemble it, I would simply put a time sert with a larger plug or big sert with the same size plug . Welding and using the aluminum for the threads again is not the best thing to do.


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