86 250r won't hit powerband

[Banshee_killer]

So I was driving one day and it started missing terribly so I drove it in my shop and checked out the wiring and come to find out most of the electrical was held together by electrical tape and it being twisted together. So I found my wiring diagram and soldered and redid almost everything and I got to driving it and it fixed the miss at the lower speeds but now it won't hit the powerband. So I did some research and found a few things (jets, bad reeds, cdi high speed relay) I know the jetting is right because it would hit the power band previously to this electrical problem. The reeds are carbon fiber boysen but I have not checked if they are cracked. So I was wondering if it's a crazy idea that my Cdi could be bad? The coil is ok I checked the ohms. I found a cdi on eBay for $15 brand new. Is it worth trying it out?

[newby200x]

From my experience, aftermarket CDI's are usually the culprit when it comes to not being able to open up fully. My 85 would start and idle fine, but could never make it past 1/3 throttle. Also, the spark advanced too early, making the kick start pop back and nailing you in the chin. Bought a good used CDI and everything was cured.

[Shawn Powell]

For 15$ to check the CDI isn't a bad idea. But I wouldn't take off into the desert with a cheap Chinese CDI. If that fixes it I'd buy a ricks electric CDI or a upgrade from the newer cr250.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Banshee_killer]

If I do find out the Cdi is the problem I plan on getting a ricks cdi but I thought it was worth. Shot for $15

[yaegerb]

Get an OEM CDI....aftermarket CDI's are junk. With patience, you may even be able to find a NOS. To check your CDI give it a couple good taps with the handle end of a screwdriver. If the bike comes back to life its likely your CDI. Unfortunately they are solid state and not able to be rebuilt.

[Banshee_killer]

Are the Ricks cdi any good?

[Banshee_killer]

I saw on YouTube where this guys put his Cdi in the oven to remove any moisture so I'll try that

[roostin atc]

I don't think I'd put it in the oven. Rice would have the same effect. Just buy a new cod. They are cheap and plenyfull.

[yaegerb]

This is your best option.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-CDI-UNIT-ATC250R-1986-TRX250R-1986-1987-ONLY-86-AND-87-C-D-I-261F-/351992841481?hash=item51f4688509%3Ag%3AJZkAAOSwjDZ YmOYP&_trkparms=pageci%253A803dfd55-68a8-11e7-a394-74dbd18030ce%257Cparentrq%253A41b3521715d0a99bea47 e69bffe97923%257Ciid%253A1

[jb2wheels]

When I bought my 85 it had similar symptoms - never seemed to "clean out".
The stator was barely in the low range of spec.
I friend with 250R experience told me the they're rather sensitive and stators at the low end have given him problems.

I replaced my stator and it's run great ever since.

[Banshee_killer]

Hmmm I'll look into different stator. How do you test it

[Banshee_killer]

How do you go about testing the stator? I was riding today drove about a mile and a half and it shut off on me and when I could kick it over It would only pop once or twice. I looked at the spark and it looked more orange than the usual blue. Any ideas guys? Cdi? Stator? Coil? Any help is appreciated!

[fieldy]

Rick's electric can test them for $15 dollars. The manual and a multimeter can also provide some troubleshooting information.

[Banshee_killer]

Are the aftermarket stators any good or is oem the way to go

[yaegerb]

How do you go about testing the stator? I was riding today drove about a mile and a half and it shut off on me and when I could kick it over It would only pop once or twice. I looked at the spark and it looked more orange than the usual blue. Any ideas guys? Cdi? Stator? Coil? Any help is appreciated!

Post shutting off, have you tried to tap the CDI yet with the end of a screwdriver as suggested above?

[Banshee_killer]

I will try's soon and post an update

[Banshee_killer]

I tried tapping it to no prevail. I got the aftermarket cdi and you guys were right it didn't work (timing wise) but I did notic it produced a brighter spark and I didn't have to kick it over as fast (the old cdi you really had to kick it to on make spark. So does this point to the cdi going bad?

[newby200x]

That's the difference between the cheap aftermarket CDI's and a good used OEM. The OEM requires a good hard kick to get the revolutions going to produce a good spark. This will prevent the kick starter from kicking back as well, which is going to happen on the aftermarket unit. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/176679-Need-1985-250R-Electrical-Help

Have you tested your stator per the manual? It's rather easy to do if you know how to use a multi meter. Have you looked at your flywheel yet to look to check for rust/debris? A copy of the service manaul can be found here. http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

[Banshee_killer]

I'll have someone test the cdi in town here and I'll test the stator once I get a chance. I haven't looked at the fly wheel etc but I will soon

[barnett468]

That's the difference between the cheap aftermarket CDI's and a good used OEM. The OEM requires a good hard kick to get the revolutions going to produce a good spark. This will prevent the kick starter from kicking back as well, which is going to happen on the aftermarket unit. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/176679-Need-1985-250R-Electrical-Help


Honda did not attempt to reduce engine kick back by intentionally designing the ignition system with a weak spark so the engine had to be kicked over fast to generate enough spark to ignite the fuel.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lol:

[Banshee_killer]

So is my Cdi going out do you think

[yaegerb]

for s and g's see what the distance is of your pick up to your stator. See below, the part that bolt #10 goes through. The distance from the pickup to the mark (the raised portion) on the flywheel should be no thicker than a business card. Sometimes they get loose and vibrate further away from stator which produces an inconsistent/weak spark.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/ATV/1986/ATC250R+A/LEFT+CRANKCASE+COVER/parts.html

[Banshee_killer]

I got the day off tomorrow so I will take a look thank you!

[Banshee_killer]

The pulser was in spec but I was wondering... is this the original flywheel?245101

[Banshee_killer]

Also this was the fly wheel key. Would this have anything to do with it?

[Banshee_killer]

245103
Here is the flywheel key

[shortline10]

WOW !
The flywheels are know for the rivets to come loose and destroy the stator with it , obviously some one welded yours to get some more life out of it .
Time for a new flywheel .



The pulser was in spec but I was wondering... is this the original flywheel?245101

[Banshee_killer]

Could that fly wheel be then problem?

[yaegerb]

so something really bad happened there. Your woodruff key is mangled. What does your crank look like where the key fits and what kind of bolt is holding on the flywheel? Also, your counter balancer bearing holder has been re-welded which is not a good sign. Can you take some pics of the crank where the fly wheel mounts?

I would at the very least get a new flywheel and counter balancer holder.

[Banshee_killer]

The slot and everything looks fine. I'll take a pic tmr and sends it

[Banshee_killer]

245206

The guy before me put a new hotrod crank in it. I tried replacing the coil from another parts bike(rm250) and it did help a little it will drive all day (won't shut off like before) but it still won't hit the powerband. Once it cools off I'm gonna look at the reeds and maybe order some smaller jets (it's an aftermarket carb btw)

[Banshee_killer]

I took the reed cage out and held it up the light and I could see light threw all of them does this mean they are bad/worn?

[Banshee_killer]

I took the reed cage out and held it up the light and I could see light threw all of them does this mean they are bad/worn?

Is that a sign of bad reeds?

[350for350]

If you can see that they aren't seating, then they should be replaced. If you can see light between the ends of the reeds and the cage, they aren't seating.