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View Full Version : In John Deere Green...on a hot Summer night....



Caminofeld
12-07-2017, 03:09 PM
So I picked up an old JD 1020 diesel with loader to help with some heavy lifting this Winter:) It runs good and only has 2000 hours, but it is a PAIN to start in the cold weather. It has a Thermostart, but still takes about a minute of cranking to get started in the cold. It has a factory ether hole, but I'm hesitant to use it because of possible engine damage. I'm gonna put a block heater in it this coming week, but just seeing if anyone knew of anything else I should/could do to make starting easier?

Also, the loader works but feels like it has a little cavitation. What's the best/cheapest way to reduce that?

I'm a total noob with diesel tractors and hyrdraulic implements, so please forgive me if I sound like a trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotr ailpro.

Thanks in advance!

-Eric

AMK
12-07-2017, 03:17 PM
Run kerosene instead of diesel, or a mix of the two.

Caminofeld
12-07-2017, 03:23 PM
I have a tank with 300 gallons of off-road diesel, but I'll try that for sure.

Jd110
12-08-2017, 02:30 AM
Nice!! What year? Hope it's a good worker for you.
My '69 is gas. Things a beast that keeps going. I'm not much help, but I will say, I think that block heater will help. Both of these have block heaters and the 350 diesel gets Lucas deep clean additive in the winter. Starts right up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171208/406b3043860312a77cbbd1905e8340b7.jpg
Will you show us yours? I, for one, would love to see it. Cheers!!
Edit: trickle charger is good, too.

coolpool
12-08-2017, 11:17 AM
As jd suggested, a fuel additive might help, at least until winter diesel is available in your area. I suggest running a fully synthetic diesel engine oil for starters, I use Shell Rotella T6 in my Cummins. A block heater is a must also. As for your hydraulics, you might need to drain the system and put new oil in and change the filter. Start with a filter change first. The suction to your pump might have a particulate screen in the holding tank, check for blockage there.

fabiodriven
12-08-2017, 12:44 PM
A block heater should square you right away. They do use a decent amount of electricity though, so you might want to keep an eye on how long you have it plugged in. I used to have mine on a timer so it came on 2-3 hours before I needed to use my truck.

Don't be afraid to give it a whiff of ether if it needs it. You're far less likely to damage a diesel engine with ether. Diesels are "over built" to be as strong as possible and don't mind ether here and there.

atc007
12-08-2017, 08:34 PM
Our winter diesel here is akin to water... get a GOOD treatment. I like DSC. Block heater and you will be set. A smaller engine like that will warm up in an hour to a half. We already know you have a great battery!!

MonroeMike
12-08-2017, 10:40 PM
I found this, not sure if it applies to yours.

"The 1020's have a closed center hydraulic system, meaning that when the tractor is starting and fires up you will have full hydraulic pressure. On the main hydraulic pump in the front of the tractor some came with a shut off valve for cold weather starting and others did not."

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/ttforum/viewtopic.php?p=6082372&sid=ae4d10fc94892b01cdb1c8c07a16241d

Scootertrash
12-11-2017, 11:47 AM
I thought this was a Meatloaf thread:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wO8toxinoc


Some, if not all modern starting fluids contain an upper cylinder lubricant. Check the can to make sure.

Caminofeld
12-11-2017, 04:43 PM
Wow, very nice JD 110! The crawler looks great too! I really have no use for one, but they've kinda been an obsession of mine for a long time. I'm going back and forth with a guy on an old International TD340 with the Drott 4 way bucket in running but super-rough shape (like needs new starter, steering clutches, reverser, etc). If I can get him down to $2k it will be mine. I only got one pic on the night I got it. She's rough, but a good worker. The nice thing is that years from now it will make a good restoration project for the kids and I. 248289248290248291

Also got some free military trailers the other day and rigged up a pintle hitch to pull them around...

Caminofeld
12-11-2017, 04:45 PM
I found this, not sure if it applies to yours.

"The 1020's have a closed center hydraulic system, meaning that when the tractor is starting and fires up you will have full hydraulic pressure. On the main hydraulic pump in the front of the tractor some came with a shut off valve for cold weather starting and others did not."



http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/ttforum/viewtopic.php?p=6082372&sid=ae4d10fc94892b01cdb1c8c07a16241d


Wow, thanks for digging that up! I'll look into it!

Caminofeld
12-11-2017, 04:49 PM
As jd suggested, a fuel additive might help, at least until winter diesel is available in your area. I suggest running a fully synthetic diesel engine oil for starters, I use Shell Rotella T6 in my Cummins. A block heater is a must also. As for your hydraulics, you might need to drain the system and put new oil in and change the filter. Start with a filter change first. The suction to your pump might have a particulate screen in the holding tank, check for blockage there.

Thanks! I'm gonna go through it in the next week or 2 and change all the fluids/filters and DEFINITELY get a block warmer. I put some Howe's winter additive in the fuel (off-road diesel) and a 1/4 gallon of kerosene and she seems to like that.

coolpool
12-11-2017, 08:46 PM
Sounds like you're on the road to recovery with your treatments! Free military trailers, how does that happen? Those little carts are awesome for putting restoration projects on or water pumps, gen sets, etc. What year is the 1 1/2 ton trailer, it looks to be in awesome shape. You could probably flip it for decent money; check on www.steelsoldiers for some price ideas if interested.

Jd110
12-11-2017, 08:58 PM
I didn't know if you have any literature, this might help...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/08747f53f15c6dfbe9ae40010d692ca3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/a441fa45e3ca8644768d12fec11e10fc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/aa417673afb8410f39a0f24079626e7e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/fe70e25a584661b2d9ece04117556017.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/e61e1d08e232c2914082aec156a418b6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171212/d51110dcb65c3693a1f3bc1a0e08e30f.jpg
Real nice finds!!!

tripledog
12-11-2017, 09:14 PM
I would love to have a trailer like the camouflage one you picked up, Caminofeld. I would pull it with my Farmall M, but I would probably need a CDL as it would become a tractor trailer. Great score you made there!

Caminofeld
12-11-2017, 10:24 PM
Sounds like you're on the road to recovery with your treatments! Free military trailers, how does that happen? Those little carts are awesome for putting restoration projects on or water pumps, gen sets, etc. What year is the 1 1/2 ton trailer, it looks to be in awesome shape. You could probably flip it for decent money; check on www.steelsoldiers for some price ideas if interested.

I didn't catch the year, but its not that old. I lucked out and a buddy of mine that has a shipping yard needed some unclaimed freight gone ASAP to make room for a new customer...so he gave me a call and I'm pretty stoked! The bad is that the trailer is 24V and has a military-style compressed liquid hydraulic line (according to Brapp)...and someone cut the line and electrical harness off. I don't know if 12V will juice 24V lights, but I'll try. I've heard of people doing axle swaps to fit conventional wheels and electric brakes, but for now I'll prob just tow it around with the tractor for random tasks and projects.

Caminofeld
12-11-2017, 10:31 PM
JD110 YOU ARE THE MAN! Thanks!!!

Caminofeld
12-13-2017, 11:21 AM
Hey JD110, I'm having trouble finding a block heater that would fit. I did see a coolant heater, part # RE313366, that I think will fit. Thoughts?

Jd110
12-13-2017, 12:56 PM
Hey JD110, I'm having trouble finding a block heater that would fit. I did see a coolant heater, part # RE313366, that I think will fit. Thoughts?

I'm not sure about that part. There are RE numbers in parts catalog but not that one. So here is what I have:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171213/d4837e8337c03731c1671562fca9845e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171213/846a20f0fb53cbd7093a7ff2ce958841.jpg
I should have called it a coolant heater.

Jd110
12-13-2017, 01:38 PM
Looks like the number you found is a good replacement based off this:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-ENGINE-COOLANT-HEATER-RE313366-AR72957/122812091843?epid=1351470624&hash=item1c982bcdc3:g:jnUAAOSwcOFWactw
Picture #5

Jd110
12-22-2017, 11:42 AM
Caminofeld, I saw another one for less $ and noticed it came with instructions. Maybe you saw that, also. Did you find where it hooks to the block?
Here's a picture of a 1520 where it mounts https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171222/9e1a320bcfd542aa6efef43de5522961.jpg

Caminofeld
01-01-2018, 02:27 PM
Hey JD110, mine looks exactly like that! TSC has what appears to be the generic equivalent of that part number for $50, so I'm gonna pick one up and see what I can do. In the meantime I got a magnetic block heater that makes it a little easier to start, but still takes a bit of cranking for it to fire.

Caminofeld
01-01-2018, 02:30 PM
They also have the inline radiator hose heater. I'll look a little further into it and figure which will best suit my needs (and mechanical skills lol)...