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View Full Version : Project Loose Fillings AKA The Goblin



Gabriel
10-01-2018, 01:27 PM
So, I rescued this sad old 200E. Not sure of the year. Engine....I know it's trash but I might tear it down and see what's savable. Someday.
It sat outside for the last decade or better. Uncovered. No seat or fenders, in an open field.
The battery box is rotted so I cut it out and smoothed it up. This will be sporting a 200S engine anyway.
This is going to be a very long term project. I have two other three wheelers to fix first. BUT, I wanted to get this in paint before winter got here.

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I want to find a 185 front end and make this a true rigid. Hence the name, Loose Fillings. Not sure what I will do with the engine but I would like to find a 200XR top end for it.


Sand blasted the frame. Two coats of etching primer and five coats of GCI acrylic enamel Marine Corp green. I had a gallon left from an M151 I fixed up years ago. I got the paint from Rapco. It's awesome paint. Semi-gloss and it dries FAST.

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I'm going to paint the tank to match, provided I can find one. I know painting the fenders will be a bad idea but I have some really ratty old fenders that are whole but cracked bad. I have cut out the zip tie repairs someone done before me and used steel wire to stitch it together. If you twist the wire tight and do individual stitches, it's a hell-for-stout repair. It just looks like Frankenstein's forehead.
I have a piece of a fender that is beyond repair. I'm going to do a little experimenting with painting it. I'm wondering if lightly etching it with a sand blaster would give the paint something to grab ahold of. If I do decide to paint the fenders, this paint is good, it's meant to be recoated anytime so touch ups are a breeze. The military has been known to use a mop to apply this stuff to a deuce and a half. LOL. Surely I can make it look "Redneck Decent".

Gabriel
10-01-2018, 01:34 PM
BTW, If any of you guys have an extra 185 front end you wanna sell, please let me know.
....I think the 185 is the right front end. What ever front end that had no shocks that will fit this frame. I think the early ATC200's had solid forks too.

Thanks!!!

Gabriel
10-10-2018, 06:23 PM
OK, I had a thought. Let's see what you think of it.

I am currently looking for a S or M front end to upgrade my 84 200ES (yet another project) to a pair of Showa forks. MUCH better than the factory turds. That ES front end was not very well thought out.

But I was looking at the ES front end today and had an idea to make a rigid front end out of it. Using about a 5 inch length of 4140 I could turn half of it to be a slip fit to the inside of the ES front end and the other half to the same OD as the ES front end tubes. Then drill the axle holes in both and the brake drum pin hole in one of them. Mock it all up and tack them to in the ES front end. Disassemble and weld it up tight. I only did some rough measuring today but from the fork bolt hole to the axle bolt hole is about 12 inches. That would only have a couple inches of my homemade trunnion hanging out of the ES forks. I know I could make it PLENTY strong and give the rigid front end I'm looking for.

I will have to take some actual measurements and lay it all out but it seems rather simple in theory.

Gabriel
10-21-2018, 11:36 AM
Started the rear end today. Got it cleaned up and smeared a little paint on it. Got the hardware all cleaned. THAT might be one of the worst tasks in any rebuild....cleaning all the rusty nuts and bolts.

Anyway, a large truck inner tube makes for GREAT gasket material for the brake drum cover. Should last for years.

Waiting on the axle bearings and seals as well as the brake cover seal. Then I will get it installed.
Still not entirely sure what rear end this is. I THNIK it's from an '83 ATC200. ....I think.

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Next I need to decide on a rear sprocket. The current one is a 47 tooth. Once I confirm it IS in fact an ATC200; Where's the best place to get a different size sprocket? If I use the 200E engine I am stuck with the 11 tooth front sprocket. It's in great shape so no worries there but it's a unique animal and I doubt custom ones are available.
I would like to find something like a 43 tooth rear & pick up some speed. Loss of low end isn't too much of a concern as that two speed subtransmission will help out for low speed pulling.

Any thoughts on that?

atc300r
10-21-2018, 03:48 PM
Contact PBI spockets.You may have to get aluminum for a smaller size.I think they range from 35-60 teeth.

Gabriel
10-23-2018, 05:37 PM
Got a little lathe work done today.
I posted in another thread that a 220 Bayou Kawasaki rear hub will interchange with a Honda ATC200 axle. BUT, here's the rub. One side is a big gaudy brake drum.

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No problem. Lets give it a hair cut.

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Then I noticed it's a bit long in the tooth to get the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole so it needed a little more trimming. Set it up in the lathe and trued everything up and got it to fit perfect.

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Okay, I admit it ain't purty but a coat of flat black and you'll never see it under the Kawasaki 10 inch rims. Outta sight, outta mind.




Then I set my mind to those totally sheet 200 ES forks I have. I want to make it into a rigid front end. Let's get started.

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I still have to drill the axle holes, then I will put the axle in to keep the holes aligned and weld these in place.
I have decided to delete the front drum. I'm going to do one of two things here. Run a back brake only or see about making a disk brake work. I don't have ALL the parts (surplus that is) needed to make a front drum to work. Honestly, I've been riding 3 wheelers for over 3 decades and I rarely use a front brake anyway. 99% of my braking is with my right foot.



Getting closer. I was looking at the frame and that green paint. I have decided to call this one.....The Goblin

Gabriel
10-23-2018, 05:43 PM
Contact PBI spockets.You may have to get aluminum for a smaller size.I think they range from 35-60 teeth.

Thanks! I looked at those after you posted it but I can't get on board with an ALUMINUM sprocket. I'm sure they're fine but I will just use the stock one I have for now. It's an easy swap later if I find what I really want.....AND if I actually NEED to.

Gabriel
10-24-2018, 02:33 PM
I found a way to run one of the 220 Bayou front wheels on this trike build.

Using one of the Kawasaki front brake drums and one of the 9 inch front wheels, I will build a front end for the Goblin.

First thing, I need the 'Saki drum to accept Honda ATC front wheel bearings and seals so they fit the ES axle I will be using. No biggie. Lets open them holes up.
Had to turn the outside a bit to get something true to hold onto for the opposite side.

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Now, As soon as I get the front fork trunnions drilled and welded in place I can make the appropriate spacers to center the tire to the forks.



....If ya'll ain't figured me out yet.....I love taking junk and making toys out of it. The Green Goblin will be JUST THAT. A pile of sht. ....eeerrrr, I mean a turd polished....no wait. Salvaged parts crafted into a ridable 3 wheeler. YEAH, that's what I meant.

ps2fixer
10-25-2018, 02:06 PM
On the custom sprocket, check into these guys. My dad put 28in outlaw tires (big tractor like mud tires) on a 99 Yamaha warrior and the stock 44ish tooth sprocket was way too high geared with a 13 up front I think. If I remember right stock rear tire size is 22in, I've ran 25in ever since (I bought it). He got 11 in the front and 52 in the back if I remember right. Still too high geared but atleast the clutch wasn't being used constantly while in the mud lol. We abused the hell out of that machine and had no sprocket issues, just the chain getting loose quick because it was a cheap/crappy one and the fact the mud will eat them up fast.

http://sprocketspecialists.com/

Here's the same tires, but on a blaster project of mine. If I recall correctly, we put 25in tires on the front of it. This was going to be the new mud toy to give the warrior a rest lol. Soon after we got a couple Honda's and never bothered with chains till I got a 350x =).

Gabriel
10-28-2018, 11:21 AM
Small victory. The rigid conversion for the ES front end is going to work. I'm almost to the point of making it permanent. I'm going to do another test assembly and disassembly after tacking it together before making a solid weld.




Here's my finished trunnions and spacers. I made the spacers using steel tubing and machined bushings that I press fit in each end and bored to a slip fit to the axle. I had to do it this way because it's all I had to work with and I needed something that would go inside the seal snug and bear against the bearing race.
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Here's it's assembled. I got it pretty close considering what i have to work with. Best i can measure, the wheel is about 1/32" off center to the fork tubes. I don't think the Goblin is gonna care. It'll track straight enough.

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Each trunnion has a large counterbore on each end. One for the head of the axle and the other to clear the 19mm socket used to tighten the nut. I think, since this axle only has a hole in head to hold it during tightening, I am going to add a roll pin. I will get a pin that fits the hole in the axle then use a small round file to make a grooved pocket for the pin to sit in on the trunnion. That way the axle CANNOT rotate.
Off to get dirty again.

Gabriel
10-29-2018, 05:52 PM
Welded in and ground smooth. There's some right nasty pitting on these tubes. Deeper than I want to grind to remove them. I got a plan for that though.

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I know I'm gonna want to run an LED for the head light so next is to cut and weld some mounts for it. Then I'll get it cleaned up and smear some paint on it.

Gabriel
11-05-2018, 08:52 AM
Jessie James once said on an episode of Monster Garage years ago; something that always stuck with me because it is so true.
Time and money spent will NEVER justify something that looks like sh!t

The rigid conversion is still going to work but the wheel hub setup is NOT. I got to studying it and the wheel bearing spacing is so close together theres NO way it will hold up. It needs a totally different hub, which I have.... I just dont have a wheel for it. Too bad. I'm not building something i know will fail. One step forward, two steps back.
*sigh* Gotta find a rim now. Dangit!

ps2fixer
11-05-2018, 01:36 PM
What's the difference in the rims, just bolt pattern? When I was poking around that area on part diagrams, I figured it was just 2 piece rim vs standard rim.

Gabriel
11-05-2018, 02:55 PM
What I was going to use was a front wheel and hub (modified) from a Kawasaki 220. The bearings are too close together and I know it won't hold up in turns. I have a front hub that will work right but I have no wheel. I need a 4 lug wheel with a 130mm bolt circle. It could be a 8, 9 or 10...heck, even a 12 would work. I just can't find a rim around here. Guess I should post a wanted thread in the classifieds.

ps2fixer
11-05-2018, 07:15 PM
I have a 4x130mm split style rim from an early ATC185 like 81-83ish. I measured the mounting holes to be sure. Outside isn't too bad, rims were rattle can painted black. Inside they didn't touch, and the junk tires were rusted on quite bad, had to cut the side wall off and break each of the metal bands to get it to release. Anyway, assuming you don't mind the repaint work they should work for your needs. Let me know if you need to know anything else about them. Also two of the lock washers are missing, should be easy enough to source replacements though.

The photos makes them look worse than they are, it's surface layer rust with a little flaking, doesn't seem to be deep pitting or anything. Also the rim halves were sealed with silicone in the middle + the o-ring. You might need a new o-ring, or copy what the last person did to seal it. Sanding/repainting them should make it a lot easier to seal up though, atleast it did when I did the same thing to a set of ATC90 rims that were in about the same condition.

Gabriel
11-05-2018, 08:53 PM
That would work perfect. Sealing them is easy......Use a tube! LOL!!!! Just gotta be mindful not to pinch it when assembling the two halves.

PM inbound.

Gabriel
11-20-2018, 05:19 PM
So far..'83 200E frame painted USMC green. 84 200ES front end converted to rigid. No idea what the 2 piece wheel I got from ps2fixer but it worked PERFECT after I made some new spacers. Front brakes deleted, brakes are for wimps. '82 ATC200 rear with Kawasaki KLT185 hubs and 10 inch wheels. Wheels are nasty, I'm waiting on new rubber before I strip and paint them. Klt185 handle bars, twist throttle. 9 inch LED light bar.

I haven't decided if I like the 22x11.00-8 front tire.....but it's brand new and my distributor gave it to me for free so it stays. LOL!!

On a side note; The KLT had brand new rear brakes. I found they pretty much fit the Honda rear set up. I had to shave .020 of the edge to make them move freely on the round boss they sit on but other than that, they worked perfect. BONUS!

Never mind those red bolts on the handlebar mounts. They're from another project and I haven't stripped and repainted them yet. They sure stick out like a sore thumb and I'm red/green colorblind. HaHa.

THE GOBLIN IS A ROLLER NOW!

https://i.imgur.com/AlKTEGQ.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/oplzvUK.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/B2ZpYoM.jpg

ps2fixer
11-20-2018, 05:42 PM
Nice work, that front rim turned out really nice. While doing my wiring research on 200s and such machines, I was able to determin that the rim is either a 82 or 83 atc185s, tail light connectors were missing so couldn't ID it further.

Yea those red bolts stick out pretty good, first things my eyes were drawn to lol. It's quite a lot brighter of a color though. The frame green color reminds me of a glossy/metalic finish version of a military vehicle (normally they are flat finish for the camo effect).

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_NdlNuTtnuY/hqdefault.jpg

Gabriel
11-20-2018, 06:59 PM
That's EXACTLY what that paint was made for. I had an M151A2 years ago. The paint is from RAPCO that specializes in military vehicle restoration. The M151 known to service members as the Mutt, is what replaced the Jeep.

ps2fixer
11-20-2018, 07:12 PM
Ahh I see, I was kind of guessing that but you confirmed it lol. There was another build I've seen in the past that was army themed if I remember right, like a 125m if I remember right. I can't find the thread again sadly, I remembered it had the white star either on the fenders or gas tank.

Gabriel
11-21-2018, 05:24 PM
Started the dashboard today.

A generic electronic 'Project Box' will bolt up to the two screws in the handle bar clamps where the plastic Honda cover went. It will house my Head light switch, a neutral indicator light and an ignition switch on the side. The switch is an MTD style riding mower switch. It will be a turn key start instead of the traditional push button start.


These things are cheap and LOTS of different sizes.


Ps2fixer has helped me sort out the wiring details.
It will act as the junction box for the front of the wiring harness just like the factory headlight bucket.

https://i.imgur.com/dtwPq4P.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/61Ew22Z.jpg

ps2fixer
11-21-2018, 06:32 PM
Well I'd say you wouldn't have to worry about anyone trying to steal your machine once it's all mounted up. It looks about like a homemade bomb lol. Should go good with the army green theme.

Mind showing the inside of the box and show the switch/light connection/wires? I'm guessing the plan is to run the wire out the back side of the box, or the bottom.

Not that it effects you much, but I think the neutral light is red, typically it's green, but it adds to the "bomb" effect lol.

Gabriel
11-21-2018, 06:37 PM
When I start making the wires up I will post pics.

The red is all they had at my local store. I might add another green one and make it the neutral and use the red as a "Power On" light. That's dumb and superfluous but I'm just an Ahole like that. LOL!!!


Also, I am considering adding an hour meter from a lawn mower IF I can make the room. It'll be for a completely rebuilt engine. Might be a nice thing to have. OR, I'm digging around the china crap and maybe I'll find a small digital tachometer that suits me Who knows.



Hmmm, running with the 'Bomb Theme' maybe I will make a 'Power On' light and label the light "System Armed". HA!!!!!

ps2fixer
11-21-2018, 06:54 PM
Just need some danger stickers for the box too lol. Something like below. Could put warning/danger bomb stickers/signs on it, but not sure if there would be any legal issues of falsely labeling something that way. Just a generic warning sign should be good enough, or one of them warning signs about 3 wheelers jumping on people lol.

If you got an hour meter, you could label it something like Timer, or Countdown (even though it counts up). I'd think there would be plenty of room on the side of the box opposite to the key, but you don't get to read it while riding. Sounds like inside that box is going to be a bit of a mess of wiring.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRm82riaAroEjSlQ8WdctYZi2I8sUYBH DPSRsU0t7htk5ooM2F_eg

Gabriel
12-28-2018, 02:59 PM
Got the control box almost done. Waiting on my chinese tachometer that will mount on top. Haven't decided to keep the labels yet or not.


https://i.imgur.com/YTzScbz.jpg?1

fabiodriven
12-28-2018, 03:09 PM
I like it! Nice job so far!

Gabriel
01-22-2019, 01:54 PM
Finally back on this.

Made a new battery box. It's canted and will be used with a sealed battery. There were a lot of F'd up things on this frame I have had to fix and a few things I have changed just because I wanted to. I still need to make a battery hold down and place the regulator and solenoid to the left of the battery there on the flat of the angle iron I have welded in place.


https://i.imgur.com/5fbBynK.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/VVR41zi.jpg




ALSO
As you can see, I also replaced those dry rotted junkers on the back with a pair of Carlisle turf savers. 22x11x10's Not only were they brand new and free, they serve this trikes purpose. I will be building a custom 1.5" exhaust with possibly two mufflers. I'd like to use a round tractor muffler along the frame, exit the rear and turn 90 degrees into a small square muffler I found on ebay, then another 90 degree elbow to exit the rear. Both mufflers are made for 4 cylinder engines so I don't think there will be any back pressure issues at all. The idea is to get the engine as quiet as possible. The reason being, along with the decision for the turf saver tires....this will be a suburban stealth trike. Straight pipes and mud grip tires are not great choices when sneaking around the neighborhood and crossing the neighbors yard while they're at work.

The Goblin will be a silent, sneaky bastage. Muhahahaha!!!


I still have some other rust issues to address then it gets repainted. I only painted the first time to stop any more rust while it sits under the gazebo.

oldskool83
01-22-2019, 02:35 PM
Looks low for a battery with all the mud and water elements. I know my KFX450R had its battery low and it caused me some issued getting corroded and a stick or two bashing it.

Gabriel
01-22-2019, 03:16 PM
Yes I considered that but this is a purpose built trike with one mission statement in mind: Suburban Trail Blazin'
Paved side streets. Flat, well manicured lawns. Mud would be nigh zero as any trip through mud might give away the fact that I've been riding around the neighborhood when that's a no-no here in city limits. Suburbia Infernos Tormentous ......Close housing hell.

ps2fixer
01-22-2019, 04:52 PM
Another thing that would be worth double checking. Does the lead acid battery say it can be mounted at any angle? I think they still need to be mounted level, but maybe I'm remembering it wrong.

Gabriel
01-22-2019, 05:01 PM
It says NON-SPILLABLE SEALED.
It’s not exactly sideways. Maybe 40-45 degrees. Guess I’ll find won’t I? Ha!!

ps2fixer
01-22-2019, 05:38 PM
Yea, I'm not 100% sure if that's good or not lol. I think inside it's still liquid acid like a flooded acid battery, it's just sealed so when charging it doesn't vent. That also means it can't be over charged to balance the cells like a flooded acid battery (shorter usable life I'd guess). A quick google search suggests mounting it an an angle is fine, but upside down is a no go so based on that sounds like it should be fine. The battery type I was thinking was needed for the angle was a AGM battery since the acid is absorbed into a glass mat.

One perk of low mounted batteries is lower center of gravity, should make handling on cement a tiny bit better (probably near unmeasureable though lol).

Also read up a bit on how 2 stroke exhausts work since you're fabbing your own exhaust system. I'm not sure if there's an online calculator or anything, but pipe size and length are pretty critical to have a good running engine. Since it's likely to be putting around, going OEM sized or even smaller would be ideal for low end torque I'd think. Large around pipes are for more HP, or high rpm power generally. Going too big isn't good either. Think about it, a small car engine can run with a 1.25in exhaust making 75hp+, how big of a pipe does a ~13hp engine need. Also don't run an exhaust tip that flares out, it acts like a megaphone. I'm not sure how much pipe size effects noise. For the muffler, from memory, the tractor pipes are straight though with packing around the pipe and small holes. In the car world I'm pretty sure they are called a resonator. They don't quite it down a lot, just a little but has very little effect on flow. Most standard mufflers force the gases though a screen and/or little maze to make it quieter. I'd say go to an ATV junk yard and buy 2 mufflers from atvs that are straight/simple to modify, like the 250es/sx style mufflers and stack them. It will be just a whisper of air. I've seen that kind of setup for hunting machines and the guy I talked to claimed he rode up on a deer and it saw him before it heard him. That setup was on a TRX350D 4x4 (stock pipe + a 2nd pipe clamped to the outlet pipe).

FYI, with the longer pipe and more muffler, you'll probably loose a little power and the carb jetting might end up being too rich. Don't forget to retune once you get the system setup.

Gabriel
01-22-2019, 06:46 PM
Yeah but an over sized pipe is pretty easy to deal with should it be a noticeable issue.
A simple restrictor baffle anywhere in the system would increase back pressure.
Unlike two stroke, I don’t think internal volume of the exhaust is much of an issue for this four stroke engine. I could be wrong. We’re gonna find out.
One thing about me and my hobbies....I have no shame when I F’ something up. I’m happy to tell off and maybe someone will learn from it.

ps2fixer
01-22-2019, 07:04 PM
All engines have some effect, just 2 strokes whole design on how they run is based on it so it's super critical to get it right. I'm sure the 4 stroke OEM made exhaust pipe has this as part of it's design. For a quick example, I had a parts Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.0L V8. The exhaust sounded really good and balanced/happy at the stock length. I went over a hill and pulled about a 2.5ft section off (wasn't clamped down), and the thing sounded like a pile of crap, had a slight backfire sound to it and very unbalanced sounding. The section of pipe was just pipe, nothing special, but it made a huge difference in the sound, and I'm pretty sure it effected how the engine ran, but I didn't' bother trying to get dyno numbers lol.

In either case, the engine will run, but over sized pipe makes you loose out on bottom end torque, but it's high rpm should benefit. If the pipe is sized too much, you loose the speed of exhaust gases to help scavenge the cylinder (just like how a 2 stroke works). This has nothing to do with actual back pressure, it's just a horrible term to explain the scavenge theory to a non-technical person. A by product of having a smaller exhaust pipe, is it builds up more pressure, but it's like a garden hose, more pressure, more volume (speed). It's kind of like the water hammer effect when you run water and slam the valve shut, the volume of the water moving is what causes it.

I never dug into the physics of the exhaust systems too far, but what I've learned seems to make sense. Like a drag race engine with short header pipes that just dump directly into the air is designed as a target length, all the same length (to balance it), and it's purely for WOT max power. I don't have the math handy to run theatrical numbers to give ideal pipe size etc, but the old school way of tuning a 2 stroke before they started using expansion chambers was to put on a straight pipe that's too long, and start cutting off 1/2in at a time till they get the right tuning they are looking for. Either case it's a neat read. I know this isn't a high $ OEM build or anything, just trying to apply what I know as a way to keep the engine performing atleast similar to OEM.

Here's a quick result I found on google, looks like it talks about what I'm thinking in depth. I didn't mention the intake since you're not modifying that, but it has similar effects like the exhaust.

http://www.challengers101.com/IntakeTuning.html

Gabriel
01-22-2019, 09:28 PM
The only reason I am considering 1-1/2 pipe is availability
For $15 I can get a mandrel bent 180 degree pipe from eBay. From that moving the metal around wouldn’t be too bad. Then there’s the mass of options.
1-1/2 had LOTS of aftermarket and generic parts support.
Our little one inch pipes....we get squat. There ain’t a muffler shop around (I know cause I’ve called) that can work with 1 inch pipe. No expanders or decent clamps. It sucks.

Move up to 1-1/2 pipe and the whole world is at your feet for options. Ebay has short lengths in a variety of bends. Especially if you look for custom made header pipe parts. People making their headers for automotive use get more than we will ever get. There’s nice quality clamps and ready flared mufflers.
I digress.

I’m going to try it. It will work well or it won’t. I will learn and pass it on.

ps2fixer
01-22-2019, 09:55 PM
What about 1.25in? a lot of small 4 cyl Japanese cars run around that size I think. 1.5in is like a 3.0L sized engine worth of piping lol. I think a geo metro used 1in pipe for it's 1.0L lol.

Gabriel
01-23-2019, 10:22 AM
You know, you may be more right than you know on this.

I thought the stock exhaust was around an inch. NOT. I took a rotted out stock header (cause I never throw stuff away) and cut it in half.
Looks like it’s actually two pipes, one inside another. The ID is a little over 3/4”.
1.5” would be double and no doubt that would NOT be good.

GD’it! Back to the drawing board.
I can get a 1 inch bender from harbor freight but an expander is just unobtanium.
I didn’t want to do it as my laziness overtook me BUT I’ll just have to lathe turn sleeves to step up to the size I need and weld them in place.

Always learning from failure. Lol!

I suppose a Thank You is in order for making me reevaluate things.
Thanks Cory.

fabiodriven
01-23-2019, 11:59 AM
Gabriel, I've made head pipes before from pre-bent pipe shipped to me in multiple pieces. Think about a custom header kit. They ship you bends, you cut them up and use them however you see fit. The diameter we need is difficult to find, yes, but it can be done. You can weld together anything you need from that. Also, you can buy a used head pipe from any number of other applications and cut and weld that into anything you need. You can also find whatever flared pieces you need that way as well.

Gabriel
01-23-2019, 12:17 PM
Yeah and something else I’m doing wrong....I’m sitting here trying to build a cart but I ain’t got a horse to put in front of it.

(Focus dumbazz!)


Back to the engine. When I have it complete and installed and wired, I’ll do the exhaust.
Should have the last pieces of the engine case detailed by days end and I’ll post up a picture. See what y’all think about what I’ve done with it.

ironchop
01-23-2019, 12:40 PM
Gabriel...it's a busy place inside your head, isn't it? [emoji23]

I'm not far from you, I think. Holler if you ever need something. I might have it

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

Gabriel
01-23-2019, 01:56 PM
Gabriel...it's a busy place inside your head, isn't it?

I would do what all those voices are telling me to but they’re not speaking English. I can’t understand a word they say.

ps2fixer
01-23-2019, 04:39 PM
Not a problem, I'd hate to see someone have issues when it's preventable. I was assuming the stock pipes were about 1in as well lol. FYI if you wasn't aware already, going from 3/4in to 1.5in is more than double the surface area. It's been a while but I was researching exhaust tuning a bit when I was going crazy on MPG stuff. The Idea I had was if I needed to replace my exhaust, I'd go down a size. I'd loose overall HP, but gain in torque/bottom end and the engine should be more efficient MPG wise.

Found a quick online calc for exhaust pipe size. 1.5in = 92hp, 1.25in = 64hp, 1in = 41hp, and 3/4in = 23hp. The calc doesn't say exactly what he HP numbers are exactly. I'm guessing they are ideal hp for the given size. I threw in 13hp and it says the pipe size should be 0.56in lol.

Note: all of the HP ratings are in BHP, if I recall correctly, the two numbers are so close it's not worth converting to "American HP".

https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

You're not the first person to make this kind of mistake. My cousin had the silly idea of putting larger exhaust on his 2000 Tundra. He wanted straight pipe dual exhaust for the 4.7L v8 Jap engine so he could hear it roar or whatever. It sounded pretty good but you could tell the engine wasn't too happy. His MPG dropped, he said it felt slower than his 3.4L Tacoma and he got rid of it after like 6 months. His dad got the same truck, didn't touch a thing on it, and he's had it for 2+ years and still loves it. I think he went from around 2in single pipe to 2in or 2.5in dual pipes, no mods on the engine or anything.

I've also seen people put STOVE PIPE (like 10in!) for exhausts. Looks so stupid, and I'm sure their truck runs like crap. Who knows what size of lead pipe they use from the engine though. I wish the general population didn't view loud exhaust as a performance thing, it's a byproduct, not the cause.

Gabriel
01-23-2019, 06:46 PM
Won't let me send you a PM. Where abouts is 'Gone'? LOL!
Actually, I got a thing or two I am trying to track down.



Gabriel...it's a busy place inside your head, isn't it? [emoji23]

I'm not far from you, I think. Holler if you ever need something. I might have it

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

ironchop
01-24-2019, 11:01 AM
Won't let me send you a PM. Where abouts is 'Gone'? LOL!
Actually, I got a thing or two I am trying to track down.Yeah I think I turned off my PMs and locked my build thread so that I wasn't bombarded with notifications while I was off the grid.

Tapatalk is awful about that stuff.

I live about 20 miles south of Bowling Green Kentucky, roughly an hour to downtown Nashville from my house.

I'll send you my cell number, text is quickest way to catch me.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

Gabriel
01-24-2019, 02:31 PM
Got most everything ready to start rebuilding. Still need to paint the head and sand the cooling fins. Can't do that until I get a new set of valves and lap them in. Spent all my play money for now, so it'll have to wait.
BUT, here's the Goblin engine so far. Gotta get with Dirtcrasher about the seals and bearings. He's got a good line on that stuff.

Trying to come up with a cool idea for the face of the pull rope housing. Too much empty grey. Needs......something
I'm gonna color in the Honda lettering on the clutch side cover the next time I have the green paint out. Probably when i do the tank and repaint the frame.

I'm getting there, slowly.



The cylinder is a 65.5mm bore 200X. I'm gonna tell you, cleaning the side of those cooling fins wasn't as easy as I imagined. The VHT black wrinkle paint is gummy as heck even after three days hanging over the wood stove, and it took several sanding drums on my dremel


https://i.imgur.com/NLOb52q.jpg?1

Gabriel
01-25-2019, 05:30 PM
Looks fair from a distance. Up close you can really see how bad my hands shake. LOL!

https://i.imgur.com/N0bEtqv.jpg?2

Gabriel
02-10-2019, 07:39 PM
Finally!!!!!
I got my blast cabinet set up. New gun and water separater and all new fine glass media.

Wish I had this a long time ago.

Got the head blasted. New valves lapped in. Tomorrow I gotta get the new seals and all back together then paint. After it’s cured I’ll skin the sides of the fins back to bare metal and the head will be done.

Jd110
02-10-2019, 08:15 PM
Nice! Always good to have a new tool in the box. Don’t have too much fun, now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gabriel
02-11-2019, 10:39 AM
Ohh baby, where you been all my life?
I have a mini shop vac attached with an old sock slid over the hose for a filter to keep from eating up my shop vac. This thing pulls such a vacuum I had to drill a few holes in the cabinet!! When you turn it on, the gloves JUMP up to attention. LOL! Unlike many I have used over the years where it gets so cloudy you can't hardly work, this one is clear as day the whole time.

Man! This is gonna come in handy. No more long days of scrubbing parts. Just a good boiling degreaser first to keep from contaminating my media and BAM, clean parts!! I put a pressure regulator and a water separator on it too. I can go up to 175psi but it's nice to dial it back when working around areas I have masked off with tape like this head here. No grit inside the engine. It's fed by two Ingersoll Rand compressors. An 80 gallon compressor does the work but there's a 60 gallon plumbed in as well so it's essentially 140 gallon. I have it set up this way so if the 80 gallon compressor goes down, I can flip on the 60 gallon and not be down. This is all set up where I work (used tire shop) so I can be cleaning parts in between customers. One of the benefits of a family business. LOL!

https://i.imgur.com/PaTKD4q.jpg

ps2fixer
02-11-2019, 01:59 PM
Nice setup. My dad worked in a automotive repair shop that had two compressors, both with good sized tanks (not sure what size, probably around 100-150gal each though). The first tank was setup to kick on like normal, like 120psi to run around 140psi, the second tank was set to kick on at 100psi, so if a lot of people were using the air, the compressors could keep up. They had high and huge compressors, so I guess the second pump tuned on so rarely they ran it like once a week, or switched which one was the primary or something like that.

Kind of funny, my dad's trying to seal his blast cabinet up to use the little outlet hole as a filter. He wants to throw a shop vac on it, he just doesn't have a spare atm. I thought what he was trying to do was a bit silly since the air has to come from somewhere.

Another fun thing to get is an ultra sonic cleaner. They work pretty good for cleaning carbs and such. Here's a pic of a few carbs, left one is a 250es one with the pilot adjuster frozen in the housing. It's uncleaned, but overall fairly clean carb for not being cleaned up. Middle is the one going on my 350x that's been though the ultra sonic cleaner. It has a couple missed spots and the gas inlet had a bit of corrosion in it. The bottom carb plug was rotted all the way though to give an idea of the carb's starting condition. The right carb is the spare 350x carb I bought for the parts to complete the center one with the best parts. I ran it though the cleaner just because it's a spare carb body. It has a little bit of dried up clay mess left on it, but not too bad. This was in a Chinese ultrasonic cleaner that doesn't have a large enough heating element to get to the proper temps, I think it was done at around 55-58c and it should be done around 65c. Besides the temp problems, it seems to work pretty well.

The ultra sonic cleaners don't remove corrosion, paint, plating, etc so they are a nice option for cleaning stuff up too. Works good on plastics too with out effecting their surface finish etc as long as the plastic can handle the temps no problem.

Kind of interesting that the 250es carb has the spot for the choke lever used on the 350x. I guess in theory someone could hook up the handle bar choke cable setup to the 350x carb if desired. They are both QA series carbs. I'm not sure if I want to run the cable based idle adjustment, it's not used a lot but the straight bolt with the knob seems to be the better setup if it's possible to get to on the 350x without burning your hand on the exhaust/head.

Gabriel
02-12-2019, 01:07 PM
Head is done. New valves lapped in. New seals and I sorted through a bin full of springs till I found (4) that were at the max end of spec.

New rod, shims and bearing should be here in a few days, ordered that this morning. Then I will get the crank rebuilt. First time pressing one apart so that oughta be fun. Need to make some parallels drivers to press it apart with. I have to go to a local auto shop and bum use of their press.

One step closer!


Not sure what discolored the paint along the edge of the fin, but that pisses me off. It's actually LESS noticeable in person. The picture really magnifies that blunder. NOT willing to repaint over it though.

https://i.imgur.com/ZJ9NwXH.jpg?1

Gabriel
02-21-2019, 04:15 PM
Got my digital tachometer/volt meter wired in and bolted on, and the control box buttoned up hopefully for the last time.
I gotta get a new key for the ignition switch. That old WheelHorse key is just outta place! LOL!
What a weird pile of shet this is gonna be.

https://i.imgur.com/lmHQcbM.jpg?2

Gabriel
02-25-2019, 02:54 PM
So I got this tank.....
I was laboring under the delusion that all ATC200 tanks were the same with the exception of the 200X. I thought the ATC, S, E, ES & M were the same.

....NOPE!!!

The tank I wanted to use was 3/4 of an inch wider inside than the frame. I found out when I tried to put it on. If you get one rubber bushing in the tank socket, the other was dangling in mid air.
*SIGH* What to do, what to do.
I considered making new rubber bushings that were longer but rubber is damn difficult to turn on a lathe with any decent results not to mention finding the right shore durometer material...eff this!

Went to the lathe and made these.
Spaces out perfect and solid as a rock.

I even kept this true Honda! I made these out of a mangled and useless 200Es front axle. NEVER throw stuff away!!!!!!

https://i.imgur.com/eNohrka.jpg

ps2fixer
02-26-2019, 03:35 PM
Just wondering, which tank did you use that was wider?

My ATC250ES had like a 200s tank on it or something like that, if I recall correctly the rubber spacers it mounted on fine, just the back part was way different, big time since the frame widens about the spot the carb is. They had some chunk of metal to attach it down, worked but was ugly as hell lol. Now I run a slightly sun faded plastic tank from a trashed 250es lol.

Gabriel
02-26-2019, 04:48 PM
Well, that's the rub......neither I nor the fine fella I got it from know WTF it came off of. ....other than it's a Honda.

Gabriel
02-28-2019, 06:33 PM
Built me a better engine assembly platform.

https://i.imgur.com/lt4WBLH.jpg







The Goblin's engine is FINALLY coming together.
I cannot say enough good things about BearingsDirect.com They had every bottom end bearing except the rod bearing and the cage bearing for the starter gear. They had all but 2 seals & I had to get those off Ebay. I ordered Tuesday, got them today. Great people.


https://i.imgur.com/kktq63V.jpg

fabiodriven
02-28-2019, 06:41 PM
Well, that's the rub......neither I nor the fine fella I got it from know WTF it came off of. ....other than it's a Honda.

Yeah I bought the tank when I went to buy some wheels just because it was so cheap. The kid said it was from a 185 and I said OK, lol. I wasn't really concerned.

I'm glad to see Bearings Direct worked out! I'm going to remember that one myself!

Gabriel
04-03-2019, 05:56 PM
Well, a little break and I'm back on this project.

I'm almost loosing interest so I HAVE to get back on this. LOL!!
Engine is 90% together. Soon as I get the pulse rotor assembled (waiting on new springs) I will post a picture.

Anyway...I love making stuff out of scraps and junk. Left over drops from some bed rails and junk hardware....and yes, those are two head studs I had from a garbage motor....NEVER throw stuff away!!!!
Here's my battery hold down I made today.
I quit making excuses for my welds a long time ago, I have light sensitive eyes and a # 13 shade still nauseates me so I cannot watch my puddle as I weld....SO, everything I weld is crooked and phacked up. LOL!!!!!!


https://i.imgur.com/TVCjgOJ.jpg

Gabriel
04-04-2019, 04:34 PM
Still much to do. Gotta do something about those tired old wire sleeves for sure as well as that hideous Hi-Low selector.


https://i.imgur.com/xLt4dB9.jpg?1

yaegerb
04-04-2019, 06:50 PM
So that’s an interesante switch box....some in english and the light switch in espanol

ps2fixer
04-04-2019, 07:02 PM
Not sure how much interest there would be, but those wire sleeves from the pulse generator I'm pretty sure I've seen a source for them. At some point in time I plan to buy new super high temp wires just like the stator and pulse generator wires are, but new =) to resell as "rewire kits", might be a bad wording/term for it since it's not the coil wiring, just the main wire going to the harnesses.

Your welds don't look too bad, the two lap welds might have been a little cold (weld built up more than ideal), but welds like yours holds up just fine in 99% uses. It's those bubble gum welds that don't penetrate the metal at all that are complete garbage. It's just for a battery anyway, doesn't have to be too strong when OEM commonly used a rubber strap to hold in the battery lol.

Gabriel
04-10-2019, 05:29 PM
The Goblin's heart is now planted firmly in its chest.
.....will it ever run? THat's anybody's guess.


https://i.imgur.com/uZiTYzC.jpg

Gabriel
04-24-2019, 04:18 PM
Got a decent start on the exhaust.

I started with a shortened header pipe from a Kawasaki 185 quad. Not sure what year, mid 80's

It uses two half circle pieces inside the clamp plate. I welded those in place permanently. The clamp plate couldn't be made to work so I had to bore a Honda plate out to fit the 1.25" pipe. The ID is 1.125, thats a significant gain over the 3/4 ID factory pipe but not so much as to be a problem....I hope.
Had to weld up a hole left from cutting off the heat sheild nuts. You won't see it as the whole thing will get wrapped with header wrap when done.

https://i.imgur.com/1KrtMes.jpg


It's a snug fit but seems to be good to go. I ordered (2) 1.25 OD mandrel bent 180 degree pipe sections off amazon to make the S bend needed to get it out of the frame and to a muffler. I thought I had my mind made up on the muffler but have since reconsidered so I'll wait until I get the muffler I decide to use mounted up before going further. At least now, I can fire the engine and see if it'll run.....once I get my intake manifold from China. Should be obnoxious as hell. LOL!!!

https://i.imgur.com/9AiH2Ee.jpg

Gabriel
05-07-2019, 08:01 AM
OK boys.

Who needs a good laugh this morning??

SO, old boy here in town does signs and lettering. He's pretty decent and he owed me a favor so I asked him to put "GOBLIN" on my tank. I gave him creative liberty cause I really didn't care. My paint job sucked and had a few fish eyes so how much worse could he really make it? ......now, this old boy....he don't wait for 4:20pm I can promise you. In 15 years, if I've ever seen him straight, I can't remember. LOL!!!!

Drum roll...........


https://i.imgur.com/N32Kvlr.jpg?1



WTF is that??? I'm glad I was in a good mood this morning. I laughed my azz off. Never let a stoner be your letter man. Even if it's free work. LOL!!!!!!!!!!

You can see the bad spots in my paint showing through. Now how I'm gonna fix this .................................

Jd110
05-07-2019, 02:30 PM
Old boy bud is your gremlin. Now, go goblin him up and sh!t him out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gabriel
05-07-2019, 03:01 PM
I've got the lettering removed.....now if I can just reletter it without fackin' it up. ------yeah...probably not.

ps2fixer
05-07-2019, 03:45 PM
Funny stuffs there, must have been thinking of the movie Gremlins, and for some reason put toothpaste on your tank xD. Maybe it's a joke because gremlins can't get wet, so they can't brush too.

Gabriel
05-16-2019, 12:38 PM
......and Fixer was right. No matter what, it looked like a GD Aquafresh logo.

I'm not happy with the big grey bandaid but it'll serve. This poor little batch of mix matched parts is in for a pretty rough life anyway....



https://i.imgur.com/wRcCgxY.jpg?2

Gabriel
05-16-2019, 05:30 PM
If your neighbor gives you a trashed old tool box from his pick up truck.....you can use it to fix your cracked trunk lid!

This one gets a trunk AND the little tool box on the rear grab bar. Gonna need to room for tools and parts once this turd hits the trail. HA!!

https://i.imgur.com/F7muJxZ.jpg

ps2fixer
05-18-2019, 09:09 PM
Looks like that lid worked out quite well for you. Your solution was better than what I was thinking lol.

Gabriel
05-20-2019, 06:27 PM
So I need a breather box. I was somewhat intent on making one but I actually have one that goes to a 200E. It doesn't fit for two reasons. The rear mounts of the box connected to the battery box which was rotten and I cut it all away. Second, it will not clear (enough) the exhaust I am making for it. A plastic box less than a 1/8 of an inch from the header pipe ain't gonna work. What to do.

Notched out the box to give plenty of clearance. I'll have to make some kind of rear mount.

https://i.imgur.com/jsiT6Uq.jpg



I put the heat gun to a junk fender to flatten it out and cut and welded in some panels.


https://i.imgur.com/iOWfsNG.jpg




Gotta get the sanding disk out and clean it all up. Then I'm gonna sand blast the outside with coal slag to etch it. I'll cover the whole outside with a layer of fiberglass. Then, I will make some reflective plates to sit between the plastic and the header. ....at least that's the plan. Plans subject to change.






.

ps2fixer
05-20-2019, 07:03 PM
Your plastic work looks to be coming out pretty well. I was going to say just heat gun the area the exaust doesn't clear and push it in. Probably end up a bit wavy but sealed well.

I have a spare exhaust shield for the air box from a atc200es air box, not sure if that would work for the heat reflector or not in your setup, maybe you have one from that air box?

Gabriel
05-20-2019, 08:56 PM
It’s not shaped right. I have a factory shield. Too bad.
I’m gonna head to the auto parts store soon. I seem to recall some heat reflecting material on the “Hot Rod” shelf next to all the aftermarket Chevy stuff. I’m betting that’ll work good. I’m going to wrap the whole header so that will help a lot too.


My plastic welding has improved but it’s still a bit sloppy looking. I’ll finish mastering function before I move on to cosmetic.
The key is patience and making sure to push deep into both mating parts then float the impression you make back smooth again while it’s still molten. No different than any other weld on earth. If you want it to hold, the weld has to penetrate the material, not just pile up on top.

ps2fixer
05-21-2019, 12:02 AM
Makes sense, I haven't had the experence plastic welding but I've seen a few people try it and it's always really lumpy and such. I think it's the welder in them trying to go side to side though like a normal arc welder.

Pretty much any steel or al would work for heat shielding, the key is to have an air gap. It reminds me a bit of the ordiances in Canada for wood stoves, it's something like 16in clearance from any walls etc and the distance is cut in half per extra layer of fire retardant material with a 3/4in gap (cement board for example). My setup at home is double walled bricks + an air jacket, so effectively 3 layers, each around 3-4in apart, and inside the bricks it gets warm, but outside is always right around room temp, maybe +5-10 degrees.

Gabriel
05-21-2019, 09:07 PM
Changed my mind. I'm gonna clean everything up and call it done. Nothing ever sticks to plastic for long anyway and the fiberglass overlay ain't a good idea.

In a hold my beer and watch this moment,,,,I stood on the air box. I weigh in at 168 pounds. No cracks, welds solid, nothing moved or made any popping sounds. Hopefully I can hide the ugly with some het shields and call it done. Kinda wished I had taken the time to get the paint off the fender material BEFORE I welded it all together.

ps2fixer
05-21-2019, 10:28 PM
Eh it will be fine, worst case scratch up the red section and spray bomb it black to make it harder to see. Not sure if there's anything that will stick too well, but it sticks for a while when it isn't flexing. I wasn't sure on the fiberglass thing too, really don't know if it would work well or not. It's not a gas tank, so stickers etc won't bubble up so the epoxy/resin should stick fine I'd think.

Gabriel
06-01-2019, 10:22 AM
She runs!!!!

Still only a straight pipe at the moment but it sounds mean. LOL!

I had to scrap the whole breather box. That sucks, should waited instead of doing so much work. Ohh well.
Hopefully YaegerB will chime in here.
His carb builds are flawless. I put a 200X carb on this. He built it for a 200X. The only real difference in this engine and a 200x (running wise) is the cam. Well, with the breather box in place, it runs WAY too rich. Flooded at the drop of a hat. I refuse to touch the carb so I put a simple free flowing air filter on and it runs great. Starts easy. Alls well that ends well.

Now to find me some rear fenders and build the rest of the exhaust.

The Goblin has a pulse!!!!

yaegerb
06-01-2019, 05:22 PM
She runs!!!!

Still only a straight pipe at the moment but it sounds mean. LOL!

I had to scrap the whole breather box. That sucks, should waited instead of doing so much work. Ohh well.
Hopefully YaegerB will chime in here.
His carb builds are flawless. I put a 200X carb on this. He built it for a 200X. The only real difference in this engine and a 200x (running wise) is the cam. Well, with the breather box in place, it runs WAY too rich. Flooded at the drop of a hat. I refuse to touch the carb so I put a simple free flowing air filter on and it runs great. Starts easy. Alls well that ends well.

Now to find me some rear fenders and build the rest of the exhaust.

The Goblin has a pulse!!!!

Glad that carb worked out for ya!

Gabriel
06-10-2019, 05:18 PM
So, finally on the exhaust. This is gonna be.....fun....

Found a tractor muffler that fits in the available space fairly well. I will have to weld brackets to the muffler so I can bolt it to the frame in the original locations.,.,I hope.

Anyway, how to get this 1.25 pipe to work with the muffler. To the lathe. I turned this piece and modified a Honda factory exhaust clamp.

https://i.imgur.com/NrmuJSs.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/TXm8uog.jpg


Now I can get an exhaust clamp on the part I made to hold the muffler in place. That U-bend is what I will make the connection between the header and the muffler from.

https://i.imgur.com/7H9AZ0s.jpg




It's my intention to bore out another Honda clamp, weld it to the header and then I will be able to bolt them together. I've got to come up with a donut gasket to sandwich between the two but I think I got that covered. Hopefully I will have at least a mock up by days end tomorrow. Then final welding, grind it smooth and wrap the header and paint the muffler. What a pain! It'll be worth it though. Unless my rebuild seizes up and being as I built this crap myself....I wouldn't be surprised.


Wide open to suggestions on an exhaust tip. I'll have to see how it sits on the frame before I can cobble up a tail pipe but it'll be different most likely. Nothing on this build is simple or ordinary yet, no sense in starting down the path of mundane now.

ps2fixer
06-10-2019, 06:45 PM
Should work fine. If you can get pipe close to the same size as the lead pipe, I'd think running that for the tail pipe would be best to keep the system balanced and such. About the only thing I can think of would be to taper the ID of the adapter so the exhaust gases are a bit more free flowing. Kind of like porting, but in an exhaust xD. You pretty much have to read a bunch of stuff at echomodder to get the aerodynamic stuff, like the adapter in a perfect would world round open smoothly to like a 10 degree angle so the air flow stays "attached" and doesn't make turbulence. Of course once the gases go though the muffler, it's not exactly straight/smooth air flow anymore lol. For the sake of KISS, probably easiest to just stick with what you have going on, I doubt it would effect performance enough to be measurable.

Gabriel
06-10-2019, 06:48 PM
The way I have it made, the pipe goes THROUGH the adapter so it'll be a seamless flow till it hits the muffler.

ps2fixer
06-10-2019, 11:49 PM
I was just meaning, the ID of the adapter to the ID of the muffler. The abrupt end will effect the air flow a little, but like I said, probably not enough to even really measure the performance hit. If it was a performance exhaust then things might be a bit different. Basically it's like the megaphone shape on the DG/Cobra exhaust, then it goes though the packing material to the out pipe. Your exhaust is built different though, probably a metal pipe with a block in the middle to force it though holes in the pipe and back though again out the pipe.

I need to get me a metal lathe some day, so handy to have.

Gabriel
06-11-2019, 02:28 PM
OK, exhaust is almost complete. Need to tack the clamp in the header for the muffler joint. Then I need to look it over real good and then I will wrap the thing in header wrap & paint the muffler. Then I gotta com up with a tip and it's done. I couldn't resist starting it, LOL!!! Its not loud but it's really deep and throaty sounding. NOT what I expected. I was hoping for a little quieter but it's a far cry from anything considered to be loud. I ended up using a muffler for a Ford tractor in the end. It fit the best. I know the header doesn't look just fancy but I don't see the need to make the welds weaker by grinding them smooth if I'm just gonna wrap the whole thing anyway.

Here's today's progress.

Muffler mounts and test fit.
https://i.imgur.com/5C4O3V3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BbgZ7Fm.jpg



Making this header from the Kawasaki work was NOT as hard as I thought. I bought (2) mandrel U-bends and got it right the first time. I have another to use for any future projects.

https://i.imgur.com/ux27SKH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7SthhSg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/irVC2MN.jpg




Now.......what is we gonna do wiff diss fugly tail end? Hmmmm..... AND, am I gonna regret putting that muffler bracket there? I would know if I had fenders but I don't so...I don't. I'll probably have to notch the fender to clear the bracket but it won't be seen so F it.

https://i.imgur.com/bx5jepl.jpg

Gabriel
06-11-2019, 02:33 PM
Second to last picture.......
You see the frame mounting point for the factory exhaust? Wonder if it would be wasted effort to build a support bracket for the header and use that spot too?????
I grabbed the exhaust and was rocking the whole machine. It is solid as a rock but.........trails do evil things......
Only reason I hesitate is it would make wrapping it a little harder.

ps2fixer
06-11-2019, 06:34 PM
On my 350x, it has no grab bar, so the DG exhaust I've used a few times to scoot the rear end around, they should be mounted solid =).

I'm not sure where the stock exhaust mount was on that machine, could probably look up a photo on ebay to see where the tab comes out though.

I don't think grinding on welds would really make them weaker, think of unibody or frame repair, it's butt welded, then ground smooth so the finish can be like it was new. I'd think grinding would only weaken a weld if the weld didn't penetrate well and the top of the weld was where all it's strength is at. The process of welding already heats the snot out of the metal, so not like the grinding heat is going to effect much, depending how you do it.

The tail pipe seems fine, what's the problem with it, I thought it wasn't going to be that close to the rear of the machine, but looks like it worked out about right. Maybe throw a little down spout to it with another one of your adapters and call it good? As it is, just keep it out of the rain so it doesn't collect water.

That exhaust is made kind of silly, normally the arrow on them shows the flow, not the intake side. I suspect that muffler doesn't matter a whole lot which direction it's installed anyway.

Gabriel
06-11-2019, 07:28 PM
Yeah that arrow seemed rather dumb to me too.

Gabriel
06-12-2019, 11:36 AM
Got it wrapped and done...all but the muffler clamp. Ordered it today. It's solid enough to run without it 'gently' so I can break the engine in. The Goblin made it's maiden voyage around the yard today. Feels strong. Much stronger than any 200 I've built so far.

Got to looking at it today and the seat I made...it's gotta go. I spent a LOT of time carving foam and stitching leather from a Broyhill leather couch to make this seat and it is BY FAR the most comfortable seat I have ever sat on.....but, as Jessie James once said on an episode of Monster Garage...Time and money spent will NEVER justify something that looks like sh!t. .....and it does. It doesn't match the lines of anything. It dwarfs the tank and looks like a big square couch cushion sitting there. Dammit!! Ohh well. I may try to find another seat pan and save this instead of tearing apart. Maybe it'll look better on something else. Looks like Hiflite is getting some of my money in the future.

ps2fixer
06-12-2019, 03:28 PM
Like 15 years ago I was a given a 1979 RM125 dirt bike with no seat. I wanted to fix/ride it, so after I got it running, I welded up a metal seat frame from tiny like 1/2in square stock from some scrap in the yard and used canvas as a seat cover. The foam I used is the foam used under carpets. Used an angle sander with like a 50 grit disk to shape it. Besides being an ugly green color, the seat turned out awesome, it also was nice and comfy too. It was about 5 layers of carpet padding, I don't think I even glued them together, just held in place and sanded away and then covered it.

Anyway, a seat is a seat, if you can ride it, I wouldn't worry too much about it, at least not yet, you don't even have fenders on it yet right? Once you figure out the fenders, it might change your opinion on how the seat looks.

The Jessie James quote kind of reminds me of something my grandpa said all the time. "If you can't find time to do it right the first time, then how are you going to find the time to do it again." My dad over builds everything he touches because that's been instilled in him so much lol. His "light duty" trailer only made for quads is now our go to trailer for hauling scrap, fire wood, etc. The only thing that's been too much for it was a 1960's era 1 ton ford with a king cab. Axle to axle was so far, it bent the back of the trailer a bit. That truck was probably 4 tons though and the rear axle was on the weakest point of the trailer.

Anyway, sounds like all that hard work on the harness worked out and the engine building =).

Gabriel
06-12-2019, 03:55 PM
Brother, I cannot thank you enough or give you high enough praise for all the help. Never would I have been able to make this harness AND IT WORKED THE FIRST TIME!!! Without your help. One of the few things I have ever built from scratch and didn't have to "adjust" anything. It worked perfect from the time I plugged in the last connector.

By the way, I had major concerns about the stator when i first started this. This engine and frame sat in a corn field for nigh ten years just exposed to the elements. If we can believe this chinese tach/volt meter I got off ebay it is producing 14.4 volts at 2K RPM. New engine and only took a couple laps around the yard. I have not revved it any higher and won't until I get the break in oil changed. Idling it shows 13.2 volts and with the key on/engine off it shows 13 volts. Not a good battery, it's a harbor freight generator battery and they aren't a shining example of quality. BUT, I'd say for time spent in the sun and storms, it's working well, yeah?

Gabriel
06-12-2019, 04:02 PM
Glad that carb worked out for ya!


Hey Brendon, I set the idle to about 800-825 rpm with a hot engine. As per your note, I did NOT touch anything else. When it's hot, if you blip the throttle it will idle up to about 1000-1050 for about 3 seconds and then fall right back to my set idle. I've had them idle up and won't come down but this one comes down abruptly after about 2 or 3 seconds. Reckon that's because I am running a clamp on breather and NOT the breather box? If it continues to run like it is now and (once the engine is broke in) doesn't show a lean condition on a plug pull test I refuse to F' with it. Hot dang! When it's cold with a full choke it rolls over three times and starts, go immediately to half choke for just a few seconds.....when it's hot, you jump barely bump the starter and it fires right up.

83ATC185
06-12-2019, 04:20 PM
I put that one on my 4 cylinder ranger, along with a turndown, as a stopgap when the factory exhaust broke off just past the cat and the whole trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro fell off in traffic.

I was very impressed with how quiet it was (compared to the open cat...) :lol:

Tractor Supply also had a turndown to fit it ;)

ps2fixer
06-12-2019, 06:39 PM
Cool stuff on the harness working first try, I guess you had a good coach =)

Ironically, I have the same carb situation for the idle on a Chinese Quad I'm working on for a friend. New carb right from China, got it dialed in pretty good, except the idle. No air box in my situation too, the quad didn't have one when he bought it, so I just have a cone filter on it. Just guessing, but it's probably lean and needs a larger jet, but I'm wondering what yaegerb says.

Talking about that chines quad, it's a 125, but man it feels like an ATC70 for power lol. Floored on loose gravel road while turning it barely spins the tires enough to kind of slide. The ATC70 I rode was a blast, little wheelie machine, lean forward and it would spin tires, but it was gear vs whatever this china thing has, only 1 gear but shifts/feels kind of like a normal atv transmission, just the gear is super high geared since it's only 1 speed. Top speed is like 12-15mph or something like that with out reving it out too crazy.

About the stator, I wouldn't worry too much about that, unless the side cover was off or something. As long as the engine wasn't full of water, it shouldn't get damaged too easily from sitting.

Gabriel
06-12-2019, 07:34 PM
Funny.
I just got done taking another ride and it ain’t doing the idle thing now. I have to wonder if it was just a break in quirk.
Throttle response is sharp.
I’m really digging this engine so far. Might be my best one yet.

yaegerb
06-13-2019, 08:09 PM
Hey Brendon, I set the idle to about 800-825 rpm with a hot engine. As per your note, I did NOT touch anything else. When it's hot, if you blip the throttle it will idle up to about 1000-1050 for about 3 seconds and then fall right back to my set idle. I've had them idle up and won't come down but this one comes down abruptly after about 2 or 3 seconds. Reckon that's because I am running a clamp on breather and NOT the breather box? If it continues to run like it is now and (once the engine is broke in) doesn't show a lean condition on a plug pull test I refuse to F' with it. Hot dang! When it's cold with a full choke it rolls over three times and starts, go immediately to half choke for just a few seconds.....when it's hot, you jump barely bump the starter and it fires right up.

I would run that carb with the airbox, lid and a oiled uni filter. After that’s done crank it back up and see how it responds.