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ajax
12-25-2018, 05:59 PM
Holiday project.
Trying to clean up the gas tank on my 85 250es and noticed a build up in the bottom corners with signs of it leaking on the engine.
I was planning on using KBS coating sealer kit which as I understand will seal up small pin holes, but after cleaning up the corners
here is what it looks like. it might leak a drop after a week or so, its very slow.
Anyone have experience with the sealer kit? or what would you do to fix this?

Thanks

fabiodriven
12-25-2018, 06:02 PM
It's been years since I've used a tank liner but I would imagine a good one would have no problems sealing that. If you're worried about it, you could hit those parts with a welding machine first then grind it smooth. You would have to have the machine at a very low setting and an experienced welder, because the machine is going to want to blow right through that thin metal.

sledcrazyinCT
12-25-2018, 06:50 PM
I know Bill Kirsch tank sealer would cover this pin holes and hold. Spread some JB weld on those areas where it is rotted through then you do not have to worry about burning through with a mig welder. The JB weld will give something for the tank sealer to dry against.

ajax
12-25-2018, 08:19 PM
Thanks guys,
I was thinking of doing some spot welds and grind down, but I forgot about JB weld, I had this stuff holding my engine together back in the day.
and because of the location I think I will go that route and touch up the paint.

Thanks

fabiodriven
12-25-2018, 08:22 PM
X2 on the JB Weld, I don't know what I was thinking. That should have been my first suggestion, much better idea than welding.

shortline10
12-25-2018, 08:37 PM
Marine grade fuel tank epoxy would patch that with no problem .

350for350
12-25-2018, 09:35 PM
Even regular fuel tank epoxy would work just fine too. If it was me, I'd only use a fuel tank epoxy with no liner unless there's a lot of rust inside. If there is a lot of rust, then you'd probably be better off to use a tank liner too.

ponderinjunkman
12-26-2018, 08:17 AM
I have soldered those sorts of holes. Soft solder, with a decent sized soldering iron. Seems more permanent than epoxy, which I have also used, but seems to leak again in a year or two

fabiodriven
12-26-2018, 01:04 PM
Another idea better than welding.

oldskool83
12-27-2018, 11:50 AM
before you fix, just run the numbers on the costs to fix it all up. There are many replacement tanks out there nowadays which will hold up the life of the machine. Just an idea.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GAS-FUEL-TANK-ATC250ES-Big-Red-250-1985-1986-1987-Three-Wheeler-ATC-NEW/121571438798?hash=item1c4e38f0ce:g:EHQAAOSwCkZZQvz t:rk:81:pf:0

Big G
12-28-2018, 01:18 PM
I've tried using JB Weld on the exact same issue in the past, with poor results. I spent a lot of time prepping it, etc. It held okay for about a year, then started leaking. Just my experience.

fabiodriven
12-28-2018, 02:39 PM
I've tried using JB Weld on the exact same issue in the past, with poor results. I spent a lot of time prepping it, etc. It held okay for about a year, then started leaking. Just my experience.

There are different kinds of JB Weld and I'm confident there is one that would work permanently by itself, but I wouldn't trust JB Weld alone personally. If I had that tank, I'd JB Weld it then do the tank liner. Then you know you're covered.

ps2fixer
12-28-2018, 02:43 PM
I also had a tank with JB weld in about the same spot and it weeped. Looked like someone just mixed it up and pushed it on though for my case.

The soldering route can work, but it's hard to get the solder to stick. I think brazing it is the best option, basically welding but with out electricity (pretty must the same thing as soldering). Don't forget to fill the tank with water to push all the gas fumes out so you don't get any fire balls.

Here's the first vid I found of someone fixing a tank this way. I think they look pretty new to brazing, so if he can do it, anyone should be able to =). I think the flame is a bit big/hot for the thin metal, but I've only brazed like once or twice with a portable map gas torch and it didn't take much to be plenty hot enough. I tried to solder a tank with like a 80w solder iron, and it didn't work out so well, probably didn't have strong enough flux, and no clue what kind of solder it was, wasn't my equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuoaHRNaAj0

Howdy
12-31-2018, 10:48 AM
I have used Red-Kote and the one tank I done 10-12 years ago is still holding up with no issues.
Howdy

knappyfeet
12-31-2018, 04:13 PM
How's the inside of the tank?....I'm assuming if you have rusted out holes you may have a rusted tank.

Clean the inside and de-rust it followed by Caswell. It's a 2 part epoxy that will hold up exceptionally well.....probably better than anything else out there.

Good luck

twomanytoys
01-31-2019, 11:26 AM
Weld it...its just steel. Nothing will be more permanent than more steel. Just do it carefully dont blow yourself up!

ps2fixer
01-31-2019, 03:49 PM
Welding thin steel with steel is a real challenge unless you're really good with welding. It's a lot like automotive body work. Besides that, the higher heat can warp your work. My dad just got that while replacing a quarter panel on his car, he was going too fast and let too much heat build up. It turned out pretty well though, if you didn't know he replaced it, you wouldn't notice it.

Johnlocke4
01-31-2019, 04:01 PM
Soldering is quick, easy and permanent

kevin
02-05-2019, 03:35 PM
I would say have it tig welded I've done numerous ones like that and no leaks. Mig welding you're going to be spending alot of time chasing/filling blown holes

barnett468
02-06-2019, 03:49 AM
Holiday project.
Trying to clean up the gas tank on my 85 250es and noticed a build up in the bottom corners with signs of it leaking on the engine.
I was planning on using KBS coating sealer kit which as I understand will seal up small pin holes, but after cleaning up the corners
here is what it looks like. it might leak a drop after a week or so, its very slow.
Anyone have experience with the sealer kit? or what would you do to fix this?

Thanks

I know this thread is over a month old, but in case you read it again, maybe some of this will be useful. I also can not see the photo you posted because I have been blocked from seeing photos for some unknown reason, therefore, I can't see what you are dealing with, so I will make a best guess.

Sealer is not a guaranteed fix, and the success of the sealer depends some on the prep of the tank, and any sealer will have a far better chance of lasting a long time if the rust is removed first. There are a few fairly simply ways to remove the rust which I have previously posted on other threads, and others have posted some about it as well. Unfortunately, I don't have the links to any of the threads that any of this info was posted on at the moment, but you may find it if you use the sites search feature. Also, in general, the best tank sealers I am aware of are the ones that are catalyzed, meaning they are 2 parts and one of those is a hardener. One issue with catalyzed sealers is, if they fail, they are much harder to remove if you want to reline the tank again.

.

ps2fixer
02-06-2019, 03:57 AM
@barnett468

Here's a link to the photo via 3rd party.
https://i.gyazo.com/03ac13488f3c816140aa78de1644f756.jpg

barnett468
02-06-2019, 01:51 PM
hey ps2fixer, how the heck are ya. hope things are going well for you, and thanks for the photo link. at least when i can actually see what a problem is, any suggestion i might have might sound less ridiculous...or maybe not, lol.

to the op, in your particular case, i would definitely remove the rust first. i would then braze it as ps2fixer suggested or solder it as ponderinjunkman suggested, i would use some type of torch instead of a soldering gun if you solder it. my guess is that it would be difficult to mig or tig due to the size of the holes and the size of the thin metal that encircles the holes. brazing it will also not be easy but an experienced welder should be able to do it, and soldering may be the easiest for an inexperienced welder.

after the rust is removed and before welding, i would carefully dent in the area that i was going to weld. this way, there is enough weld to grind down flush with the original tank surface. i would then simply put bondo or spot putty over any irregularities, then smooth that out so the repair won't be seen.


below are 2 videos showing how to solder it with a torch that may be of some help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3L1HEfQZ-0g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbAklODvvZA
.