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Dsmawd
05-03-2020, 08:37 PM
So i need a new rear sprocket and all of the rubber (isolators?) are junk and falling apart. Does anyone make a bolt on sprocket for this that eliminates that setup? I used search and found a thread with a link to an eBay ad but its dead. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

ATC King
05-03-2020, 09:21 PM
You may want to post a picture of the axle. It's always possible an ATC doesn't have the correct axle. What thread did you find?


For the '81 185S, one of the updated isolator sprockets may fit. Like these here - https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-for-1-STEEL-REAR-SPROCKET-49-TEETH-HONDA-ATC110-ATC125M-ATC185S-TRX125/372657923902?hash=item56c424a73e:g:UNIAAOSwZvldQws Z

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That is what Honda went to after the sandwiched type carrier with the separate cylindrical isolators. You may be able to swap directly to one of those, which are available for a few different aftermarket suppliers, but not OEM anymore unless NOS. The 185S started using the updated design in 1983.

The axle part # for yours would be 42310-958-670 and for the 1983, 42310-958-671. The biggest difference would be the use of special bolts holding the later design on, which are still available from Honda, part number 90128-961-000. Which, if you're not running the chain case, you may be able to use a standard metric bolt. The special bolts are to affix the sprocket, then the round shield on the outside of the chain case.

Dsmawd
05-03-2020, 10:14 PM
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These are the only two photos I have currently as I am at work.

This is the thread I was referring to:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/160971-185s-rear-sprocket-cush-drive-question

Thanks for all the info! I’m going to order one of those sprockets. Yes mine is the sandwich type with the cylindrical isolators.

Jwheeler
05-04-2020, 10:01 AM
Hey good morning, I maybe able to help you with a rear sprocket for your 185s ! JW

Dsmawd
05-04-2020, 02:20 PM
Good morning, you happen to have one of these?

Dsmawd
05-07-2020, 09:34 PM
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Not even close to fitting. Anyone got an 83 axle for sale? Will an 83 axle even fit in an 81 housing? What about the hubs?

ATC King
05-07-2020, 11:26 PM
Dang. I was trying to get back to you sooner but only got around to dragging out some of my spare axles today. I wanted to give a definitive answer before you ordered something.

I feel bad about that one. I found a sprocket that's for your application and I'll gift it to you. I've had it sitting around for years. PM me if you want to work that out. I'll clean it up and box it. Still has some life left in it.

It's a old Sunstar sprocket that apparently isn't made anymore. I looked for half and hour online and, nada. 3049 part number. The main thing is, it's dished, which compensates for not using the cush drive mess. Flat sprockets won't work, because the chainline will be incorrect.

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Every single sprocket still available new for the old style, that I've found, only fits the original configuration. You're going to want to up-year that axle sometime, and they do interchange, along with the hubs. There may be a difference in length, as two different ones I have, which are for the 185/200 models aren't the same by about two inches overall. One of them may from 200E or M for all I know. I'm not sure what all these came from anymore. I'm not getting rid of my later axles though, after seeing the old conversion/solid sprockets aren't available anymore.

The later axle, as you've discovered, has a larger bolt pattern for the sprocket, but it also has a snap ring that goes on after the sprocket. Totally different sprocket flange.

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Dsmawd
05-08-2020, 01:18 AM
No worries my fault for being in a rush, I Just got excited to get this thing in the dirt. That’s a real stand up move and I really appreciate it!

ATC King
05-08-2020, 12:05 PM
I should have mentioned I was going to look into it closer.

Anyway, a problem with finding ANY good axle is the splines. A lot of them have the splines nearly worn out where the hubs go. If they don't have a nice flat top on the spline and look more like points, they're worn out and will just get worse until stripped. It's like stripped gear shift shafts. A new shifter on a worn shaft ends the same way.

Owners don't keep the hub nuts tight and that combined with rust, does them in. New hubs on worn axle splines is mostly a waste of money. It may prolong use of the axle, but at the cost of new hubs. All the slop just wears down everything again.


I've got some junk axles and will try this weekend to press the sprocket carriers off. I want to see how much it takes to remove them. Having a junk 200S axle wouldn't be a total waste if the sprocket carrier can be saved and put onto even an older axle that still has good splines. Old machines take some used part mixing and matching to keep running. So keep your axle if the splines are good. You may be able to find a newer axle with bad splines for cheap, and just swap the sprocket carrier.

Those old cush drive sprocket carriers are just getting harder to come by that aren't ready for the scrap heap. Like finding a complete chain case that doesn't have holes worn into it or nearly the entire bottom cut out from running the chain loose.

Jwheeler
05-08-2020, 05:31 PM
Good morning, you happen to have one of these?

If you still need a rear sprocket for your 185s , I can help you. Send me a PM . JW

ATC King
05-10-2020, 12:03 PM
When you put it on, the first pictures are incorrect. It's on backwards in those.

The dish is so it lines up over the original hub, not off to the side of it.

How the sprocket is supposed to be installed:

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Dsmawd
05-12-2020, 01:58 AM
Tons of great info thank you again!

Dsmawd
05-19-2020, 08:47 AM
Ok I think I got it on there the right way, chain line looks ok. Is it a terrible idea to leave the chain guard off? Also how tight should the inner nut be on the axle? I don’t want to crank it down on the bearings and ruin them
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ATC King
05-19-2020, 12:16 PM
Nut, as tight as you can get it by hand, or gudantaught. Don't break a sweat doing it, that's too tight. There's a bearing spacer (or should be) between the bearings that keeps them from being squished too much. Unless you have a crow foot that size and a large torque wrench, a torque spec isn't helpful.

Many people use a pipe wrench, but I don't like marring them like that. I bought a two foot adjustable wrench from Harbor Freight just for that purpose and that's all it ever gets used for. I don't mind putting a cheater on it to loosen the nuts, but use it as is to tighten them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/adjustable-wrenches/24-in-adjustable-jumbo-wrench-63644.html

Doesn't hurt anything leaving the chain case off, especially that the cush mechanism is gone now and a solid sprocket in it's place. You would want to keep as much grit out of that cush device as possible, but now you'll be able to clean, adjust and lube the chain easier without the chain case.

I've run them both ways, but prefer to use the chain case. Problem is the chain case gets beat up riding in technical rocky terrain and the chain will rub holes through it. If for more farm type use, chain case all the way. The case isn't very heavy, so I don't consider it much of a weight savings by itself. That old style cush drive is pretty hefty though and rotating mass...

Dsmawd
05-19-2020, 04:00 PM
Gudantaught it is! I have an old spud wrench that fits and it’s about 2 foot . Yes the spacer is in there as well. I went ahead and threw new bearings and seals in there while I was at it. I like the idea of being able to see the chain and sprocket as well . Thanks again! Couple pics I took along the way 262812 262810262811