Kawasaki KLT 250 prairie

[AbsoluteZer0]

Like the title says, i'm going to be getting a KLT 250 and was just looking for some insight on what i should do besides the normal carb clean/tank clean to get it back up and running?

I was told that it has an electric fuel pump so i know im gonna need a battery to actually get fuel to the carb after i clean it out.

The bike looks to be completely original clear down to the tires and in extremely good shape considering it still have every single decal and speedi attached still.

I've never owned a 3 wheeler but i have ridden them a bit. I have never seen one with an electric fuel pump before though so im kinda scared about that aspect of it especially since its been sitting in a building for years.

also what should i expect with reliability, weight etc. I've only ever ridden the honda 200x and a couple yamahas. I assume they all handle about the same but ive read that the prairie is pretty heavy.

Any help is appreciated.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Here are some photos of the wheelerhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/a90e3043313d1eb46cc720198851dfd5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/856288683a5dc6670ce1af113de5ca3c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/f6c3b68c0141351583bf24e4e9229f13.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/d5fa66ce51b1d5408e72bd8c497c1527.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/1f54ab438e2bd1252763a0e9876b0e55.jpg

[big specht]

Make sure the frt brake works cause they are about dangerous with the diff unlocked on hills. They aren’t the faster or best handling bikes in the utility world but neat bikes that you don’t see a lot off.

[AbsoluteZer0]

plan was whenever i get it going was to leave it unlocked. My property is mostly field but if i go out to my friends house to ride with them on their 3 wheelers to have it locked in the entire time. Not looking to win any races just something to play around on and have fun with. Just figured i couldnt pass up one this one considering ive never heard of one and searching for them on market place etc is hard to come by. I figure ill just get it up and running and use it around the farm and play on the weekends when i can.

I did see that it weighs in at almost 400 lbs so i figure the ride isnt going to be the best, he did say when he rode it last the front was pretty bouncy. Videos ive watched seem to show them moving pretty slow, think a regear would make it a little better on the top end? I kind of feel like they are all torque no top end.

[coolpool]

That's in really nice shape! It sounds to be the exact machine you'll want to use around the farm for low and slow travel. With an in-lockable diff, towing a mower won't chew up your yard either. The electric fuel pump will be a very simple thing and could always be replaced with an off the shelf one if you can't get that one working, 12v is 12v. I'd say the left rear tire needs a repair based on the block under the foot peg. If a person does that little bit of work to preserve something, my guess is the whole machine was well taken care of.

[AbsoluteZer0]

That's in really nice shape! It sounds to be the exact machine you'll want to use around the farm for low and slow travel. With an in-lockable diff, towing a mower won't chew up your yard either. The electric fuel pump will be a very simple thing and could always be replaced with an off the shelf one if you can't get that one working, 12v is 12v. I'd say the left rear tire needs a repair based on the block under the foot peg. If a person does that little bit of work to preserve something, my guess is the whole machine was well taken care of.

Good eye! He said the left rear goes flat after sitting for a day but air it up and it’s good for that day riding. Figure once I get it I will just take it up to the tire shop and see if they can plug it or something.

This guy for sure takes pride in everything he owns and is a Kawasaki guy so I know it’s been well taken care of. He said he got in the fall years ago and rode it until winter then just stored it in one of his buildings with a dehumidifier running to keep moisture away.

I don’t think I could pass it up especially ones I’ve seen around here asking $1000 for oen that’s completely clapped out but runs. I just hope that’s all it will take it some carb cleaning and a battery to get it going. Like I said it’s just something to play around on, I have a rzr but it’s just something about a 3 wheeler that gets the blood flowing.

I recently rode a 225dx and a Yamaha 200 about 2 weeks ago and I knew then and there I needed to find one of my own. I should be picking it up this coming Tuesday after work.

I was trying to be proactive and find a battery for it but I don’t want to end up getting the wrong size battery and it not fit as I still don’t know where the battery goes on this one..

I “think” it’s on the right side down by the foot peg but I’m not certain, I was just going to get a 50-60 dollar battery.

[350for350]

From what I recall, that sounds like the right location for the battery. Remember that these have a manual clutch. That seems a little strange on a utility trike (to me), but that's how they were made.

[ATC King]

That's a nice looking one.

[rpeters]

My neighbor did a lot of the development testing on those when he worked at Kawasaki. I have ridden one myself as well. He said it will pull a 7000 lb truck. Chck the front shocks to see if they still have damping, but they will still be ok if they are worn because it is no a race trike. He also said to check the fuel tank for rust, and replace the fuel lines with ones that are alcohol resistant, and that a Yuasa Yumicron battery is the best wet cell type because it has an extra plate in it, and that an AGM battery will last longer and does not require any maintenance as far as keeping it topped up with fluid. He also said they are indestructible and can go thru 1 1/2 foot deep water for days and never die.

[AbsoluteZer0]

My neighbor did a lot of the development testing on those when he worked at Kawasaki. I have ridden one myself as well. He said it will pull a 7000 lb truck. Chck the front shocks to see if they still have damping, but they will still be ok if they are worn because it is no a race trike. He also said to check the fuel tank for rust, and replace the fuel lines with ones that are alcohol resistant, and that a Yuasa Yumicron battery is the best wet cell type because it has an extra plate in it, and that an AGM battery will last longer and does not require any maintenance as far as keeping it topped up with fluid. He also said they are indestructible and can go thru 1 1/2 foot deep water for days and never die.

I believe the fuel tank on this one is plastic. I plan on getting some hose just in case the fuel lines are dry rotted. Should know more by tomorrow afternoon when u go pick it up

[AbsoluteZer0]

Does anyone know how the ride is in the woods on trails? I assume it’s a solid rear with no shocks, just wondering what to expect while trail riding

[big specht]

Yea I was going to say that too they have plastic tanks but they are known to dry rot and crack tho

[ATC King]

If you're riding with other people on similar trikes, it's fine. Yes, they have no rear suspension, but if you run the tires at ~2.2psi which is where most hardtail trikes run, then it'll ride OK for slow speed trail riding. You'll need a good gauge with a 0-10psi range, because any regular car tire gauge that goes up to 60+ psi has too large of a scale to be accurate at low pressure. You won't be able to find a digital car tire gauge that reads accurately at low pressure either. A quality pencil gauge with a 20psi max will work fine and those are pretty easy to find and inexpensive.

One like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Low-Pressure-Tire-Gauge-Tool-Motorcycle-ATV-UTV-Dirt-Bike-Guage-Gage-PSI/181861577805?epid=1611888911&hash=item2a57cb744d:g:2H0AAOSw4SlV7gxz:sc:Shipping MethodStandard!72058!US!-1

Ideally, the best would be a 5 psi max gauge, but that's getting into scientific quality and price gauges, also some really crappy ones may have come with some ATVs.

Tire pressure is important on everything, but put too much in a hardtail and it'll bounce all over the place and be rougher riding. Tires are the major compromise on a hardtail. Smoother riding means worse handling at higher speeds. Stiffer, better handling tires are rough riding. It's not a sport machine, so there isn't any need in ruining the ride for better handling. The tires that are on that Prairie are the best style to have. A 2ply, knobbie style tire. I wouldn't want to run that nice looking trike through any deep mud or water anyway, so no need for mud style tires.


Side hill riding takes some practice and steep downhill is challenging, on any trike. Got to get used to standing on the pegs and using body weight to control a trike.

Something else about the Prairie is it's only electric start. There is no pull rope or kicker if the battery goes bad. You may want to think about that before buying a low end battery. AGM batteries are good on ATVs because they handle vibration better than a flooded battery and there's no worry of spilling acid through a vent tube. They aren't any lighter weight and typically a little heavier. Lithium batteries are very lightweight, hold a charge almost a year, but are expensive and don't start well in cold weather until warmed up by leaving something like the headlight on for a few minutes.

[AbsoluteZer0]

If you're riding with other people on similar trikes, it's fine. Yes, they have no rear suspension, but if you run the tires at ~2.2psi which is where most hardtail trikes run, then it'll ride OK for slow speed trail riding. You'll need a good gauge with a 0-10psi range, because any regular car tire gauge that goes up to 60+ psi has too large of a scale to be accurate at low pressure. You won't be able to find a digital car tire gauge that reads accurately at low pressure either. A quality pencil gauge with a 20psi max will work fine and those are pretty easy to find and inexpensive.

One like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Low-Pressure-Tire-Gauge-Tool-Motorcycle-ATV-UTV-Dirt-Bike-Guage-Gage-PSI/181861577805?epid=1611888911&hash=item2a57cb744d:g:2H0AAOSw4SlV7gxz:sc:Shipping MethodStandard!72058!US!-1

Ideally, the best would be a 5 psi max gauge, but that's getting into scientific quality and price gauges, also some really crappy ones may have come with some ATVs.

Tire pressure is important on everything, but put too much in a hardtail and it'll bounce all over the place and be rougher riding. Tires are the major compromise on a hardtail. Smoother riding means worse handling at higher speeds. Stiffer, better handling tires are rough riding. It's not a sport machine, so there isn't any need in ruining the ride for better handling. The tires that are on that Prairie are the best style to have. A 2ply, knobbie style tire. I wouldn't want to run that nice looking trike through any deep mud or water anyway, so no need for mud style tires.


Side hill riding takes some practice and steep downhill is challenging, on any trike. Got to get used to standing on the pegs and using body weight to control a trike.

Something else about the Prairie is it's only electric start. There is no pull rope or kicker if the battery goes bad. You may want to think about that before buying a low end battery. AGM batteries are good on ATVs because they handle vibration better than a flooded battery and there's no worry of spilling acid through a vent tube. They aren't any lighter weight and typically a little heavier. Lithium batteries are very lightweight, hold a charge almost a year, but are expensive and don't start well in cold weather until warmed up by leaving something like the headlight on for a few minutes.

Yeah I don’t plan on riding through mud holes or anything with it. Just get together with some friends and ride trails. I was just curious if it handled like any other trike in the woods. Easy to slide, take bumps etc but like you said about the tires being a major factor.

Once I get it running ill test it out with varying psi on the little bit of trails I have around here and see how it feels. Most my buddies trikes are ragged out so I would assume the shocks are done for on then anyway so I should be used to a tougher ride.

I was just unsure since there is no rear suspension and only tire give for absorption how it would compare to riding one with a shock.

They like to go at a decent pace I’m just worried about keeping up, I think most of the trails they have out there I didn’t get out of 2nd gear on either trike I rode that day. Some small hills but nothing major to climb and I already told them I’m not hill climbing anything lol.

[ATC King]

Easy to slide, take bumps etc.


2ply knobbies don't slide, they tuck and roll. :D


That's especially so on utility trikes. Not enough power to spin them when they grip, and they are very grippy with the right air pressure.


You know the front suspension design is a leading link. They're supposed to be more robust than conventional telescopic forks, which is why sidecar motorcycles (hacks) still used them. Leading link suspension designs go all the way back to the beginning of motorcycles and it's a design still in use today on many machines. It's been used on just about everything with a wheel, and there was a brief period in early motocross where several designs were competing with telescopic forks, except those were more complex, which was their downfall.

A beneficial effect of the design is the reduction of brake dive. Another property they have is better geometry for going over obstacles by allowing the axle to move in an arc.

If the shocks on yours are bad, all you need to replace them is one of equal length and proper spring pressure. You may be able to find some air shocks that would fit. All kinds of cool shocks you could find that would fit.

[rpeters]

Yeah I don’t plan on riding through mud holes or anything with it. Just get together with some friends and ride trails. I was just curious if it handled like any other trike in the woods. Easy to slide, take bumps etc but like you said about the tires being a major factor.

Once I get it running ill test it out with varying psi on the little bit of trails I have around here and see how it feels. Most my buddies trikes are ragged out so I would assume the shocks are done for on then anyway so I should be used to a tougher ride.

I was just unsure since there is no rear suspension and only tire give for absorption how it would compare to riding one with a shock.

They like to go at a decent pace I’m just worried about keeping up, I think most of the trails they have out there I didn’t get out of 2nd gear on either trike I rode that day. Some small hills but nothing major to climb and I already told them I’m not hill climbing anything lol.

That model does not like to slide, and you definitely will not be able to keep up with a trike that has a rear shock like a 200x and a decent rider.

How much is the seller asking for it?
.

[AbsoluteZer0]

That model does not like to slide, and you definitely will not be able to keep up with a trike that has a rear shock like a 200x and a decent rider.

How much is the seller asking for it?
.

Only $1000, probably just keep an eye out for a cheap 200 to woods ride. Still picking up this one as I’ve never seen or heard of one before.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I might be all right as far as trail riding goes, I just found out that 2 out of the 4 trikes don’t have rear suspension either so I should be able to keep up lol.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Just got home with it and did a quick clean on the carb and jets, drained what seemed like 5 gallons of gas out of the tank. Gas was clean but for sure old as al get out, battery is huge but I’m going to look around on my breaks tomorrow and see if I can find one by the weekend.

It did at some point get a new grey right rear and tire and rim but front the left rear ar eoriginal, I did notice that someone had out silicone over one of the holes on the carb, I’m assuming the idle air maybe? Smal recessed hole on the side.

Rolls super easy when pushing around, going to get a new fuel filter tomorrow if I can as well since it had one between the tank and fuel pump. Other than that I’m excited to throw some fresh gas in it and a battery and see if she will live again.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/c692efd3f8f8ec8799280429f70b1976.jpg

[ATC King]

Dang, that thing looks even better now. Has to be one of the nicest, original condition Kawasaki Prairies out there.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Dang, that thing looks even better now. Has to be one of the nicest, original condition Kawasaki Prairies out there.

It’s not without some bumps and scraps but it’s in really good shape. It is an 84 according to the tag.

He told me not to give him a dime until I can get it running and make sure everything is good.

[dirtwheels]

That’s a nice original bike. I like it! Look forward to your updates.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Small update, I took a picture of the battery and sent it to a friend of mine who works for a company that gets discounts on parts etc and had him pick me up I’m assuming the same battery for 43 plus tax so I should have a battery by tonight.

Might stop and get some more carb cleaner and do the carb one more time then fill with fresh gas, throw the battery in and hope for the best.

This is the battery that was in it, thought I was going to have to remove the rear tire to get it out lol.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/ccf8ab905a6ab8673b7194ceaf7a8bd9.jpg

[coolpool]

I can't fathom why someone would silicone a hole up on carb? I suggest downloading the free online manual before you start taking things apart and re-assembling. It's important to follow factory settings and torque specs. Personally, I don't use anything but a Yuasa in any of my ATV's. Expensive in Canada, (~$130.00), but I've only ever put 2 in my 22 year old quad.

https://threewheelermanuals.com/kawazaki

[AbsoluteZer0]

I can't fathom why someone would silicone a hole up on carb? I suggest downloading the free online manual before you start taking things apart and re-assembling. It's important to follow factory settings and torque specs. Personally, I don't use anything but a Yuasa in any of my ATV's. Expensive in Canada, (~$130.00), but I've only ever put 2 in my 22 year old quad.

https://threewheelermanuals.com/kawazaki

The only thing I took off the carb was the bowl and jets to spray them out to make sure the holes flowed freely with no obstruction. It actually didn’t have much tarnish on it at all. I didn’t mess with the silicone or other side screw.

I’m only guessing that it was the idle screw as it was recessed in the side of the carb, choke side and I vaguely remember something about the idle screw being there or around on that side of the carb. Might have been leaking slightly or something so they sealed it I’m not sure.

I will snap a pic of it tonight once I get home to show what I’m looking at. Other than that the carb looked relatively clean inside and out.

I’ll probably just re spray the jets and carb one more time, then put it back together and see what it does with the new battery.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Gotta let the battery charge overnight before I can give it a go. Just hooked the fuel line back up with fuel filter so that’s ready to go.

Only thing I can figure with the silicone is maybe if it is the idle screw the vibration was causing it to back off so they did that to stop it from backing out idk. Hoping by tomorrow afternoon I can slap the battery in and give it a go. I’m hoping it will fire right up without much effort since it’s been taken care of.

I’m going to try and ‘prime the line’ by blowing into the tank before I dip the key on to try and help it out as much as I can since it’s been a while.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Also at this point im just wanting to make sure everything is good to go and checks out then I’ll order an AGM battery to use once this one dies out.

I want to make sure the clutches aren’t stuck, it will run the way it sits and I don’t need anything else currently.

I’m super excited and impatient sometimes and this is one of those times where I can’t wait to find out how everything is as good as it looks on this ole classic.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Never thought to ask but what engine oil would you guys recommend I out in it? Once I know it’s running I want to change the oil because it’s hard to tell the last time it’s been done and he said he never changed it when I bought it 5-6 years ago

[AbsoluteZer0]

So fresh gas, new battery and jet clean it fired right up, rode it around for a good while then started to cut out like it was starving for fuel.

Can’t hear the pump click on now either when I turn the key back on, wondering if the pump literally just gave out.

Burns a little bit of oil but man does it run good

[AbsoluteZer0]

And now I believe it’s good, I assume it has a relay for the fuel pump also? I tapped what I thought was a relay and the fuel pump itself with a ratchet a couple times and it started working again.

Just took it out for another ride and it didn’t cut out at all so at least I know what happens when the pump starts acting up.

The front end is definitely a very neat setup, I like how it arcs when going through dips or bumps rather than just shocks trying to absorb it all.

For sure needs another new rear tire as the one goes flat quicker than previously thought but man I’m excited to have a rare, running and riding, almost completely all original 3 wheeler (even if the old girl smokes a little).

I don’t think I’ve had this much fun just riding around in a while. My kids get a kick out of it and are willing to jump on the back and ride around.

I’ll have to upload the video I took of the very first time I tried firing it up after slapping the new battery in it and one of me taking a little ride (it was when the pump was acting up so ignore the cutting out parts lol)

It is for sure a heavy SOB but I think I’m in love.

[AbsoluteZer0]

https://youtu.be/d072Dg376Fw

[AbsoluteZer0]

So i went out this morning to see if it would fire back up.

Full choked it and fired right up and just slowly backed the choke down to off and it stayed running no problem. Went out for another short cruise. Man that diff lock/unlock is nice. Unlocked you can turn on a dime, locked it liked to push the front end lol.

I need a heat gun to heat up the front fender as its bowed in slightly just enough to catch the front tire if the front end arcs from a bump or dip but other than that its an amazing running wheeler.

Also the front break doesnt seem to work hardly at all, its not enough to stop it but the rear will lock up the tires no issue. Wondering if its just bad pads or maybe i need to reset the arm on the splines to have it get a better pull or what.

So now it still runs great and im looking around at tires to see how getting another new rear tire and possibly a front just so it has new tires all the way around.

[coolpool]

Definitely sounds good. Just remember with all things old, as soon as you think you have everything figured out and fixed, something new and exciting will pop up. I think a nice soft close to OEM 2 ply knobby is made by Chen-Sing (sp) or something like that?
More than likely the brake shoes are worn and you might as well look at the front wheel bearings once you're in there. Don't be surprised if the front axle is hard to come out, they can be a PITA! Did you download the manual yet?

[ATC King]

The next thing you should do is lube all of the cables. Get a good cable lubber and go at it.



Lubed cables help with braking power. You shouldn't be moving the brake arm on the shaft, that indicates the shoes need replaced.


I like the CST C829 tire. It's very supple, has good grip and holds up well if not putting a lot of pavement miles on them. The ones I'm using now are several years old and not a bit of dry rotting or cracking. Of course, the trike stays in a shop when not used. Keeping tires out of the sun when stored is key to long life. UV rays destroy tires, that's why RVers put those tire covers on when at a campsite and Jeeps should always have a cover on the spare.

[ATC King]

Lubing all the cable should be next on the list. Get a motorcycle cable lubber and go at it.
https://motionpro.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/variants/U9FhQhRFriRchFrMpmPPXjQR/073213f866e4695e5381635c4ece2f6ad498892f3b238bf6f1 81e0136911ddcb
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

I also like the CST C829 tire. It's very supple, has good traction and last a long time if keeping off of pavement. For a two ply tire, they are pretty hard to puncture too.

https://www.csttires.com/de/files/2013/03/C8292.png
https://www.csttires.com/de/tire/c829/

I've used the Kenda Scorpions too, but I think the CST rides better and has better traction in dry terrain because it's so flexible.

A product I use in all my ATC tires is Quadboss tire sealant.
https://quadboss.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1gal_2.jpg
https://quadboss.com/tire-wheel/tires/tire-sealant

I've used several of the other tire sealants out there, and this stuff works, hands down. It's also doesn't damage the wheels after being in for years. Slime says it won't but it does, I know for a fact. The Quadboss sealant is expensive, but compared to a trailside flat, it's well worth it. I buy the gallon size, because that's the next best value to the five gallon bucket. I use in in all our lawn movers and they never get flats. I've used it on tires with bad beads and they sealed up. Weyerhaeuser clear cuts timber land here, and if you know how nasty that stuff is, I've never gotten a flat riding through it.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Definitely sounds good. Just remember with all things old, as soon as you think you have everything figured out and fixed, something new and exciting will pop up. I think a nice soft close to OEM 2 ply knobby is made by Chen-Sing (sp) or something like that?
More than likely the brake shoes are worn and you might as well look at the front wheel bearings once you're in there. Don't be surprised if the front axle is hard to come out, they can be a PITA! Did you download the manual yet?

Yes I have it saved but haven’t had a moment to look through it yet. I appreciate you sharing it!!

I’ve looked at rural king and they do have a 25x12x9 knobby tire for $90 but I could have sworn when I was looking around the other day I found a Carlisle one for 60.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Lubing all the cable should be next on the list. Get a motorcycle cable lubber and go at it.
https://motionpro.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/variants/U9FhQhRFriRchFrMpmPPXjQR/073213f866e4695e5381635c4ece2f6ad498892f3b238bf6f1 81e0136911ddcb
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

I also like the CST C829 tire. It's very supple, has good traction and last a long time if keeping off of pavement. For a two ply tire, they are pretty hard to puncture too.

https://www.csttires.com/de/files/2013/03/C8292.png
https://www.csttires.com/de/tire/c829/

I've used the Kenda Scorpions too, but I think the CST rides better and has better traction in dry terrain because it's so flexible.

A product I use in all my ATC tires is Quadboss tire sealant.
https://quadboss.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1gal_2.jpg
https://quadboss.com/tire-wheel/tires/tire-sealant

I've used several of the other tire sealants out there, and this stuff works, hands down. It's also doesn't damage the wheels after being in for years. Slime says it won't but it does, I know for a fact. The Quadboss sealant is expensive, but compared to a trailside flat, it's well worth it. I buy the gallon size, because that's the next best value to the five gallon bucket. I use in in all our lawn movers and they never get flats. I've used it on tires with bad beads and they sealed up. Weyerhaeuser clear cuts timber land here, and if you know how nasty that stuff is, I've never gotten a flat riding through it.

I’ll have to look into that stuff! I thought about getting some sort of tire sealant to throw in the one and ride it around until I got around to getting another rear tire.

As far as lubing the cables go I never would have thought to do something like that. Just any type of lubricant or is there a specific one? I do believe at work we carry an aerosol cable lubricant but it’s super sticky and then dries on. Supposed to keep cables good but I’ve never used it before.

[350for350]

There is a specific cable lube. I have no idea whether or not it's actually any better than a general spray lube such as PB Blaster. I'm another vote for the CST829 tires. I just got a couple in for my 250ES Wednesday. Now I'm just waiting on my DWT rims to be made and ship to me so that I can mount them up. I'll have four on these rims so that this way I'll have a spare. I LOVE the way that it rides with these tires on it. I think it's almost like a Cadillac compared to my other trikes.

[big specht]

If you are going to lube the cable get a motion pro cable luber v3. It good and seals really good to the cable and the straw on the spray lube. I used it to lube the hvac cables on one of my old ford truck with out taking the cable out of the truck man what a difference it makes. As for tires get a 2ply tire for a hard tail your back will thank you.

[ironchop]

Damn!

That's a really great looking Prairie! I've only ever seen them completely trashed around here.

Thanks for the video. It sounds fantastic too. What a score!

'Hardtails' (no rear suspension) are great trail machines. I had a Honda 200S and I was constantly surprised how capable it was in the trails and climbing near vertical creek banks.

[yaegerb]

X2.....from what I see all the stickers seem to be there and it runs fantastic. I am no prairie guy but it looks very clean. You should do a walk around video.

[AbsoluteZer0]

X2.....from what I see all the stickers seem to be there and it runs fantastic. I am no prairie guy but it looks very clean. You should do a walk around video.

If I get time tomorrow I’ll try to do one. I already sort of screwed up the prairie side decal while cleaning the carb jet. When I hit it with carb cleaner some hit the graphic so I went to wipe it off and smeared it a little bit.

Kicking myself for letting that happen but it is what it is lol it definitely runs great even with a little bit of smoke.

[350for350]

If you are going to lube the cable get a motion pro cable luber v3. It good and seals really good to the cable and the straw on the spray lube. I used it to lube the hvac cables on one of my old ford truck with out taking the cable out of the truck man what a difference it makes. As for tires get a 2ply tire for a hard tail your back will thank you.

Thanks for the brand recommendation. I had one years ago, but the tool box that it was in got stolen out of the back of my truck in a locked fenced in yard. Then I got a GYTR one from the local Yamaha dealer and it's junk. More lube runs down the outside of the sheath than goes inside with the cable.

[ATC King]

Just any type of lubricant or is there a specific one?

It depends on the cable. Some OEM cables, like Honda, have a plastic coating on the cable and I think a liner in the housing, so it's plastic on plastic. For those, I use silicone spray, like CRC. Walmart actually has it on the shelf here, otherwise, at auto parts stores.
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x500/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/i/m/image_505600_1_20411_1_368765.jpg
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant-7-5-wt-oz-05074.html

For the other common type of cable, that isn't lined and/or the cable isn't coated, any good lubricant will do. Not penetrants though. There are some name brand cable lubes, but really what's happening is you'll be flushing a lot of crud out of old cables and providing them with a protective layer of lube. Most ATV and Motorcycle cables are pretty sloppy in the housing and not sealed on one end or either, so lubing them is more of a cleaning (getting out abrasive dirt).

Lube that clutch cable good and regularly. They really get a workout and a dirty cable is noticeably harder to pull.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Here’s the walk around video and cold start


https://youtu.be/NGUm9H7MicA

[AbsoluteZer0]

Another small update. For some reason the headlight and tail light weren’t working. Tried tracing wires to see if there was a plug or fuse somewhere.

Ended up finding the headlight was actually unplugged. The one side of the plug is actually broke but the contacts were still good so I managed to get that plugged in and when I started it up they still weren’t working for a minute then I jumped on to take off and both headlight and twilight started working.

At least I know those are now good to go. The front end is tweaked a little bit so when you ride it you have to turn the bar to the left a little bit. Not sure what was bent or how it was bent but everything else is good. 1 wheel drive it handles great but once I lock it in 2 wheel it just feels like I’m riding an all time 4 wheel drive lol.

[yaegerb]

Here’s the walk around video and cold start


https://youtu.be/NGUm9H7MicA

That is a very nice looking bike. Thanks for doing the walk around.
A couple things....
If you want new stickers for that bike, Bruce Alleman from Blue Line Graphics could likely make those side and rear stickers. He does very good work. Second, make sure you either use non ethanol gas or If you use gas with ethanol, drain your carb if it will be Sitting for extended periods of time.

That frackin’ thing is a time capsule. Take care of it.

[350for350]

It may be the two different tires on the back that's causing you to have to ride with the bars turned a little bit to the left. Check their height and/or circumfrance.

[AbsoluteZer0]

That is a very nice looking bike. Thanks for doing the walk around.
A couple things....
If you want new stickers for that bike, Bruce Alleman from Blue Line Graphics could likely make those side and rear stickers. He does very good work. Second, make sure you either use non ethanol gas or If you use gas with ethanol, drain your carb if it will be Sitting for extended periods of time.

That frackin’ thing is a time capsule. Take care of it.

That’s exactly what the guy told me, he said try not to run ethanol gas. I said yeah I don’t think it needs any Cam2 race fuel lol.

Right now it’s got almost a full tank of 93 octane that I had from when gas was super cheap here so it’ll be good for a bit. So far I’ve been getting it out every day taking it for a ride. My son constantly asks me if we can get the 3 wheeler out.

[AbsoluteZer0]

It may be the two different tires on the back that's causing you to have to ride with the bars turned a little bit to the left. Check their height and/or circumfrance.

The left rear is worn down quite a bit and the right is basically brand new. That’s kind of what I was thinking was maybe that new tire is causing me to almost ride sideways. I’m gonna look around locally and see if I can’t source a tire identical to the one that’s on it now and if cheap enough grab one for the front as well.

[350for350]

If all else fails, you could let a little bit of air out of the new tire and that should get it going straight. I'm glad to see that you and your son are enjoying the trike. It makes me want to dig mine out and get it running.

[AbsoluteZer0]

As far as engine oil goes. I was looking through the manual and it says SAE 10w40 so am I right to assume any type of engine oil will do?

Obviously just conventional no synthetic blends

[350for350]

Use oil that's compatible with a wet clutch. Personally, I go with a manufacturer brand or something like Valvoline ATV/UTV oil.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Just had a big rain storm and decided to take it out and test it on my muddy trails. Still handles great but way better when it’s muddy, I don’t notice the pull it has like when it’s dry out.

Still going to take a bit to get used to making slight downhill corners, just been going slow with it but I can get it to slide a little bit, for sure not as much as one with a shock and smaller tires but still pretty fun.

The ole back is gonna have to get used to just tire give, ive woken up every day this week with a stiff back lol.

[350for350]

Yep. Soft, two ply tires, low air pressure, and slow speed are all your friends with a hard tail.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Any recommendations with a front tire? I feel like it just likes to plow the front when trying to turn while giving it throttle.

I don’t know if a matching knobby is going to help or just a completely different style tire. Obviously it has a smaller front tire so it’s gonna get pushed around - little bit but I want to try and minimize it as much as I can.

[rpeters]

Any recommendations with a front tire? I feel like it just likes to plow the front when trying to turn while giving it throttle.

I don’t know if a matching knobby is going to help or just a completely different style tire. Obviously it has a smaller front tire so it’s gonna get pushed around - little bit but I want to try and minimize it as much as I can.


That model does not like to slide,

My friend that did the testing on those said that no tire you put on it will greatly reduce the front end push, although a different tire may reduce it a tiny bit, unless your existing tire is original and is as hard as a rock from drying out over the years, in which case a different tire will help more.

[ironchop]

My friend that did the testing on those said that no tire you put on it will greatly reduce the front end push, although a different tire may reduce it a tiny bit, unless your existing tire is original and is as hard as a rock from drying out over the years, in which case a different tire will help more.I was wondering when your friend was going to notice this thread and this sweet survivor Kawi and chime in.



To the OP, I'm glad to see you riding it and fixing it. Definitely rare machine in a condition like that one here in the Midwest and I hope you get alot of enjoyment out of it.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[AbsoluteZer0]

My friend that did the testing on those said that no tire you put on it will greatly reduce the front end push, although a different tire may reduce it a tiny bit, unless your existing tire is original and is as hard as a rock from drying out over the years, in which case a different tire will help more.

I figured being a hard tail its gonna be tough to overcome any kind of front end plowing. Im not sure if the original tires were dunlop or not but thats whats on the front and 1 on the back. If your friend would like to see any more pictures of it I'd be happy to take them if he wants to see anything in particular.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I was wondering when your friend was going to notice this thread and this sweet survivor Kawi and chime in.



To the OP, I'm glad to see you riding it and fixing it. Definitely rare machine in a condition like that one here in the Midwest and I hope you get alot of enjoyment out of it.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

It's hard to not want to get it out everyday and just ride around. My son asks me consistently every day when i get home or wake up in the morning if we can get it out and ride around lol.

I might take apart the front end this weekend and take a look at the front brakes. I can tell its trying to do something but its not enough to slow it down or stop it unfortunately. Could be maybe the pad separated from the shoe and its just sliding around inside.

I also got to looking at the manual that was provided here about greasing the rear but i dont see any grease fittings to grease, only thing i see when i slide open the inspection cover is what looks like a bolt with a nut on the other side going all the way through the carrier/axle. Also didnt see one on the front for so im assuming sealed bearings or just re-pack when needed?

[AbsoluteZer0]

Oh i also forgot to mention, previous owner said he did have the speedometer somewhere and that if he found it he would bring it to me. Said hes not sure he had the cable though. He believes the speedometer said around 400 miles.

[350for350]

I think that these probably have sealed bearings. The others that I've worked on all did. For a front tire, you may try a Kenda Front Max. If there isn't a lot of clearance between the tie and the front suspension, you may try going with a 10" wide tire instead of an 11". When the rear brakes on my 1983 ATC185S were bad, they would hang up and start dragging. One of the linings had come loose from the backings and one had slipped between the other one (still attached) and the brake drum. This is just my experience and i'm not saying that your would act the same way. I prefer to have working brakes both front and rear.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I think the front is a 22x10, it is narrower than the rear 25x12 I know ther much. I’ll have to double check the sizes but it needs another new rear as the older one isn’t staying aired up for much more than 10-15 minutes of riding now and the front is just worn down too much for my liking.

I will look into the Kendra tire, I may end up just getting a pair of knobbies from a store near me and out then in so as my least it’ll have 2 matching ones for the rear. I can’t seem to find a matching Carlisle.

All the Carlisle I’ve looked at do not look like the one I have currently, they all seem to have little cups cut into the knob whereas mine is just solid.

[coolpool]

I think you and the machine deserve to get 3 new tires and be done with the guess work on front end plowing and handlebar pull. Your riding experiences will greatly improve and you'll only increase the cool factor of that survivor. As mentioned, dig into those front brakes and bearings and discover exactly what you're dealing with. They are a pretty simple setup. X2 on Bruce for the repro graphics too, they do awesome work! If you could get that speedo you mentioned........!

[ATC King]

All the Carlisle I’ve looked at do not look like the one I have currently, they all seem to have little cups cut into the knob whereas mine is just solid.

That's called 'dimpled.' It's increases traction. The CST C829 tire is a dimpled knobbie.

[rpeters]

I was wondering when your friend was going to notice this thread and this sweet survivor Kawi and chime in.



He has been really busy with work and racing his dirt bikes on the weekends, plus he has some type of involvement with Elsinore Raceway that just reopened, so he doesn't have any spare time right now. He is going to help me some with my 3 wheeler next week if he gets some time because there are some things I'm not able to do. Right now he spends any time he can squeeze in on an 86 Kawasaki 250 Works bike he recently bought. He seems to have an obsession to make it super lite and told me that he already lightened it by around 6 lbs, and he had a rear axle made for it out of some super high tech ballistics grade aluminum he scored, but he still wants to try and get 3 or 4 more pounds off it. He said that his friend that ran the racing department at Kawasaki might have some magnesium hubs for it too. I told him about this Prarie because I knew he worked at Kawi, so he looked at the post and said it was really nice but that he hated them because of the type of testing they made him do on it. He said one of the tests he had to do was ride it up and down some freezing cold stream in the mountains in the middle of winter for a week straight to try and drown it but that it wouldn't die, and his boots had disintegrated by the end of the week and he had to get new ones, lol.

[rpeters]

Oh i also forgot to mention, previous owner said he did have the speedometer somewhere and that if he found it he would bring it to me. Said hes not sure he had the cable though. He believes the speedometer said around 400 miles.

My friend says that speedo is worth a lot of money, so you should hound the guy until he finds it.

[rpeters]

I think the front is a 22x10, it is narrower than the rear 25x12 I know ther much. I’ll have to double check the sizes but it needs another new rear as the older one isn’t staying aired up for much more than 10-15 minutes of riding now and the front is just worn down too much for my liking.

I will look into the Kendra tire, I may end up just getting a pair of knobbies from a store near me and out then in so as my least it’ll have 2 matching ones for the rear. I can’t seem to find a matching Carlisle.

All the Carlisle I’ve looked at do not look like the one I have currently, they all seem to have little cups cut into the knob whereas mine is just solid.

For normal riding you should get 4 ply tires. I think bike bandit or one of the other big stores has good deals and cheap shipping.
.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Didn’t get. A chance to check the front brakes, I went ahead and orders new shoes for the front. Should be here Friday the. I will tear into it,

Going to try and get a new rear tire this week sometime. Anyone know if the KLT shared the same oil filter with any newer kawasaki/Suzuki 250 or bigger?

I did find a spare z400 filter I had laying in the garage I forgot I had but I don’t want to take off the cover if the filter isn’t interchangeable.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Also I may have just picked up another Kawasaki.

Was talking with a guy at work about the 3 wheeler and he said my son has one he’s been trying to give me so he texted him and told him I can have it.

Said he believes it’s a Kawasaki 185. So I might be picking up KLT 185 3 wheeler to mess around with.

All I know is it’s been sitting for quite a while, I said as long as everything is there and it’s not missing any vital parts I would forge sure be interested in it.

Looks like this I’ve attracted Kawasaki 3 wheelers. Now if only I could attract a tecate for dirt cheap :D

[ATC King]

Whatever brand and model you like, sticking to that and accumulating spare parts is the way to keep costs down in the long run. Even really rough ones are usually good for a few parts. What I do is clean the parts to ready-to-use condition, then pack them away.

[350for350]

Whatever brand and model you like, sticking to that and accumulating spare parts is the way to keep costs down in the long run. Even really rough ones are usually good for a few parts. What I do is clean the parts to ready-to-use condition, then pack them away.

I tend to do this too. All except for the clean it to ready to use part. I kind of slack on this.

[AbsoluteZer0]

well i did not end up getting front shoes as the shop informed me when i stopped in yesterday that the front shoes were on backorder on the invoice they looked at yesterday.

I did not get a tire yet either as we are getting ready for a fair and the kids decided to leave the hose run all night which in turn drained my cistern so i had to spend all morning hauling water. I will get a tire exventually, i may just end up ordering one from bikebandit so i know it'll get here without interuption lol.

I noticed tires for the front have been marked backordered as well for a 22x11x9 front tire.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I just changed the oil, according to the manual it says 1.5 quarts. That’s what I put in, the sight glass shows about half way in between the marks.

I assume this is the correct amount to have it is between the low mark and top mark. Not all the way up to the top mark correct?

[AbsoluteZer0]

I grabbed some castrol 10w40 motorcycle at the local shop. Basically the same oil I use in my rzr but in weight recommended.

I looked at several brands they had but none said anything about wet clutch that I could find but assumed most were meant for wet clutch or not.

[coolpool]

That should work fine, I've ran off the shelf Castrol 10W-30/40 in everything I own and have never had an issue.

[ATC King]

That oil is fine, I used to use it in all my motorcycles. Unless you ride it a lot, you're not going to change it more than once a year anyway. It's good to stick with motorcycle/ATV oil, because you never know what automotive oil with friction modifiers will do to a wet clutch.

If you look, manufacturer brand oil probably isn't any more expensive. If the Kawasaki oil doesn't cost any more, just go with that. Not starting an oil debate, but if the manufacturer stuff isn't any more pricey...why not. Some Honda owners swear by GN4 and they'll poke you in the eye for suggesting anything else belongs in their machine.

[AbsoluteZer0]

That oil is fine, I used to use it in all my motorcycles. Unless you ride it a lot, you're not going to change it more than once a year anyway. It's good to stick with motorcycle/ATV oil, because you never know what automotive oil with friction modifiers will do to a wet clutch.

If you look, manufacturer brand oil probably isn't any more expensive. If the Kawasaki oil doesn't cost any more, just go with that. Not starting an oil debate, but if the manufacturer stuff isn't any more pricey...why not. Some Honda owners swear by GN4 and they'll poke you in the eye for suggesting anything else belongs in their machine.

The castrol is 9.99 a quart so not too terribly bad. I run gn4 in my little Suzuki 50 I’ve had since I was 4 years old, brand doesn’t matter to me as long as it gets the job done.

The more I look at the older rear tire but more I’m tempted just to tube it. Be cheaper and honestly th e tread isn’t horrible and would last quite a while

[ATC King]

A tube will eventually ruin the wheel, possibly to the point where a tubeless tire won't seal again. A tube creates a moisture barrier between it and the wheel, and causes aggressive corrosion.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So looks like I’ve got my work cut out on this other Kawasaki. It’s been neglected for quite a while. These are the pictures I got sent but it looks to be complete and turns over. Needs a tire/lug nuts and new pull rope.

Going to pick it up tomorrow after work. Looks like it’s a 185-200, can’t really tell in the pictures.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/7f4f3b5908f67e54e63bcf6af4da78b6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/57f6e9e38d29af65803a114f616c0e7c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/fcabf704499a5d88ceaa85d339fb4ce4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/dbd80da1e58e96a233df75554169dc51.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/44bd1b8479a13d75b211179d0bd7d4c7.jpg

[dirtwheels]

Nice project. Based on the looks of the rear axle carrier and the fact that it is chain driven, it looks like a KLT110. I heard they are pretty quick for a 110.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Nice project. Based on the looks of the rear axle carrier and the fact that it is chain driven, it looks like a KLT110. I heard they are pretty quick for a 110.

Yeah I believe you are correct, the more I look at the pictures the more it’s looking like a 110. Should be interesting to try and get going.

[rpeters]

Yeah I believe you are correct, the more I look at the pictures the more it’s looking like a 110. Should be interesting to try and get going.
That is indeed a 110, and I have ridden one of those, and it was a blast. My friend did all the testing on that model also, and he said you can wheelie one all day long without it bogging out, and they turn way better than the bigger kawi trikes. They are an automatic but there is also a clutch lever you can use instead when you are in first gear. He said it took him and the japanese engineers 6 weeks straight to get that system to work, and yes, they are fast and will easily blow away a honda 110. I know that because my friend brought his out when we went riding. Also, if you sit back on the seat and shift it at wot, the front wheel comes off the ground. He also said that it is impossible to blow one up because he tried. He said they are even faster with a straight thru muffler and some holes in the air box, but then the carb needs to be rejetted, or you can put on the next size bigger carb. He also said that the shifter keeps coming loose, and if you don't keep it tight, it will strip the splines on the shaft and there are none available. He said to put a long grade 8 bolt in the shifter with a flange nut on the end and keep checking to see if it gets loose. He also said that the boss on the shifter that fits onto the shaft sometimes stretches so that the two ends where it is split will touch which prevents it from being tightened properly, so check for that also. He said it they are touching, you can widen the gap cutting it with a dremel cut off wheel, but you then need to drill the unthreaded hole slightly bigger. I would love to have one of those but they are as rare as hens teeth. They also made a little quad with that same engine.

[AbsoluteZer0]

That is indeed a 110, and I have ridden one of those, and it was a blast. My friend did all the testing on that model also, and he said you can wheelie one all day long without it bogging out, and they turn way better than the bigger kawi trikes. They are an automatic but there is also a clutch lever you can use instead when you are in first gear. He said it took him and the japanese engineers 6 weeks straight to get that system to work, and yes, they are fast and will easily blow away a honda 110. I know that because my friend brought his out when we went riding. Also, if you sit back on the seat and shift it at wot, the front wheel comes off the ground. He also said that it is impossible to blow one up because he tried. He said they are even faster with a straight thru muffler and some holes in the air box, but then the carb needs to be rejetted, or you can put on the next size bigger carb. He also said that the shifter keeps coming loose, and if you don't keep it tight, it will strip the splines on the shaft and there are none available. He said to put a long grade 8 bolt in the shifter with a flange nut on the end and keep checking to see if it gets loose. He also said that the boss on the shifter that fits onto the shaft sometimes stretches so that the two ends where it is split will touch which prevents it from being tightened properly, so check for that also. He said it they are touching, you can widen the gap cutting it with a dremel cut off wheel, but you then need to drill the unthreaded hole slightly bigger. I would love to have one of those but they are as rare as hens teeth. They also made a little quad with that same engine.

Funny thing about the shifter. Not sure what possessed them but for whatever reason they lost the shifter and out a different on on but welded it on backwards.....literally.

So I’m gonna have to grind it off the weld and hope to get it off and try to file the shaft if I can and find another shifter for it

Haven’t had much time to mess with it but it does leak oil from somewhere. I’m having a hell of time getting the pull start spring back in place. I’m hoping to mess with it a little more this weekend.

Still haven’t received the front brake shoes for the 250 so that part is still on hold.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Needless to say this 110 will be a love/hate project lol.

I’m in no hurry to completely have it ready, I’m just wanting to get it running then slowly fix all the problems since it’s been sorely neglected for years.

It is super light weight, it’s nothing to grab the front end and flip it up so I’m not doubting it’s speed or maneuverability.

Here’s what I was taking about with the shifter. I have no idea what in the hell they were thinking but a grinder is in order for that.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200731/b0eb085f18a34fcfe38b3072845ebee9.jpg

[dirtwheels]

Those had a double-ended shift lever that attached in the middle, so you are looking at whats left of it...or the back half. You would think they would have wanted the front half working before the back. Or maybe it broke off after they welded it. Like you said...time for the grinder.

[ATC King]

Those had a double-ended shift lever

AKA = heel-toe shifter. Common on old motorcycles and cruisers.

Cool idea really, for chunky work boots, possibly covered in mud. Like how there used to be those aftermarket hand shifters. New to me. Something everyday...

[rpeters]

Funny thing about the shifter. Not sure what possessed them but for whatever reason they lost the shifter and out a different on on but welded it on backwards.....literally.

So I’m gonna have to grind it off the weld and hope to get it off and try to file the shaft if I can and find another shifter for it


They probably welded it on because they rounded the splines on the shift shaft just like my friend says happens on these.

You really want the heel toe shifter on this bike for a few reasons.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So my friends and I finally got together to do a ride.

We rode for quite a while and it was a blast. The prairie did pretty good minus the front end plowing and having to be on guard for off camber situations.

Did a little better than I thought it would but it was still a rough ride lol.

I will be getting a new front tire and one for the rear sometime soon. Also gonna keep my eye out for an Atc 200 to use for a trail pig but for now I can still trail ride with this one. It kept up pretty good with the ATC 200, Yamaha 225dx and Yamaha ytm 200.

[350for350]

By ATC200 I assume that you mean an ATC200X. Right?

[AbsoluteZer0]

By ATC200 I assume that you mean an ATC200X. Right?

Yes, if I can find one cheap enough. The 200x that rode with us is actually a bastardized 200x, he put a 4 speed semi auto electric start four trax 200 motor in it.

It does run extremely well and is the only one currently that doesn’t smoke lol. He has the 200x motor he took out of it but it is completely locked up tight.

If I can come across one cheap enough I’ll try to get one. There are actually 2 Yamaha 175’s near me for $500 and $475 that I’ve been tossing around the idea of snagging one to play on the woods with.

[350for350]

Those 175's are pretty zippy. They're called wheelie monsters.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Here’s a picture of a the trikes together.

Yellow is the YTM 200, red is the bastardized Honda 200x, Black is the Yamaha 225DR(I think) and finally the Kawasaki 250 prairie.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/c42a281d223b5b8d71567c76f8f14038.jpg

[350for350]

I'm not sure why you're calling the 200X "bastardized". I love my AutoX and it's my favorite trike. I know that they're not for everyone, but they're just fine for me. As for the 225, if it had reverse, it's a DR. Otherwise, it's a DX.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I'm not sure why you're calling the 200X "bastardized". I love my AutoX and it's my favorite trike. I know that they're not for everyone, but they're just fine for me. As for the 225, if it had reverse, it's a DR. Otherwise, it's a DX.

It’s still a 200 but it has a 200 auto out of a 4 wheeler that had to be shimmed and such to work. Wasn’t a direct bolt in, had to be rewired etc. it’s still a 200 though, it does run really good

[AbsoluteZer0]

Still no word on the front brake shoes. I’m about to tell them to cancel and give me store credit to get some somewhere else online.

I’m also not sure if it’s a stretched cable or if my clutches are just slipping, the cable is adjusted as far in as it will go and if I adjust it out to give it a longer let go to move it will slip when I hit the gas but where it’s at currently it does not sip.

I find after sitting over night the clutches will grab when trying to put it into first gear on cold start up.

Not all the time but sometimes. After that first time it’s usually good, sometimes it just goes into gear and doesn’t try to grab at all and you can take right off.

I have found a few places online that offer quite a bit of oem parts so I was figuring on new front brake shoes and cable. New clutch cable and maybe just odds and ends to keep on hand in case I ever need something.

[ATC King]

...maybe just odds and ends to keep on hand in case I ever need something.

^
This

It makes things go so much smoother in the long run to have parts and things you'll need, on hand. I keep oil and air filters on hand, along with any oil filter I use. Just changed an air filter yesterday that hasn't been changed in a couple years (I write dates and mileage on them), bam, had one on hand.

Spark plugs, light bulbs, typical bearings and seals (spindle bearings on hand for the lawn mower), really, I've got bags of OEM Honda parts that I'll use sometime, but don't know when.

For things that you know are going to be needed for regular maintenance or practical repairs, having it on hand means very little down time. The way shipping is right now and probably will be well into next year, it pays to have things on hand.

I'm not in BFE, but there's not a traffic light within 20 miles of here. There's also very limited stores within driving distance, and things they have in stock are often twice the price versus online. I order the majority of my stuff online, and don't have to burn gas to order a part, just to do it again to pick it up. We're rural enough that going to town takes a big chunk out of the day and cost gas money.

[rpeters]

Still no word on the front brake shoes. I’m about to tell them to cancel and give me store credit to get some somewhere else online.

I’m also not sure if it’s a stretched cable or if my clutches are just slipping, the cable is adjusted as far in as it will go and if I adjust it out to give it a longer let go to move it will slip when I hit the gas but where it’s at currently it does not sip.

I find after sitting over night the clutches will grab when trying to put it into first gear on cold start up.

Not all the time but sometimes. After that first time it’s usually good, sometimes it just goes into gear and doesn’t try to grab at all and you can take right off.

I have found a few places online that offer quite a bit of oem parts so I was figuring on new front brake shoes and cable. New clutch cable and maybe just odds and ends to keep on hand in case I ever need something.

What oil are you using? You could try valvoline 20w-50 v twin oil, and if it still does it, there is something wrong with the clutch plates like they may just need cleaning, but it sounds like there is some type of clutch release problem. You should be able to pull the clutch lever in around 1/8th to 1/4 of the way before it starts to feel firm as it begins to disengage the clutch.
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[AbsoluteZer0]

Castrol motorcycle/atv oil.

I honestly think the cable is just stretched out.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Small update. I stopped at the shop to see if they had any word on my front brake shoes and he said we Sven heard anything.

He pulled out a different parts book and called them directly and he said they do have them in stock and he should have them by Monday or Tuesday next week.

Just hope he ordered the right shoes as he kept thinking 4 wheeler when I said KLT 250 prairie.

Just a local owned shop so I’d rather give them my money than a big chain place plus I’m not hurting for front brakes as I still have rear.